# Running with the bike?



## DJEtzel (Feb 11, 2010)

So I'm curious what users here use on their dog as far as equipment for riding bikes with a running dog. Jon (bf) got a new bike tonight and I plan on getting one too, or using his in the meantime to run Frag. We have trails and sidewalks that I'll be switching from, though most of it will be on the trails where there's less impact since he is still technically growing. 

ANYWAY, I digress... 

What I want to know is what type of collar leash I should use, would be easier to use, and what I absolutely shouldn't use. Like, is a prong completely out of the question? I really have no idea how he's going to react to the bike because he hasn't been around them a lot, but he never has issues with bikers near us on trails or the sidewalk and is a great running partner staying right next to me. He responds pretty well to verbal commands for everything except stopping well, really. Which is why I know it'd be easier to get his attention with a prong on to stop him if need be/at crosswalks, etc. I don't FORSEE him lunging/pulling or being stupid on it, and I don't forsee myself crashing and killing his neck, so would that be alright? Should I use a flexi in this case to give him room for extra movement, or perhaps a longer leash, or two leashes and two collars? 

Just wondering what works for everyone here. I know if it weren't for the stopping I wouldn't really be considering anything other than a 6' lead and a flat buckle, but I'm worried he wouldn't stop successfully fast enough on my cue and would pull me over. I know he won't be pulling for any strangers, kids, dogs, squirrels, etc. though.

Thanks for any tips/advice!


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## KZoppa (Aug 14, 2010)

first off, dont run him with the bike unless you have one of those connections that clip to the bike itself to attach to the leash. also, a flat collar would be best because its least likely to cause damage if you have to stop too quickly for him to catch himself and a slip chain wouldnt be the best option either because of the same reason resulting in windpipe damage. I'll see if i can find the connection i'm talking about and post it.


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## KZoppa (Aug 14, 2010)

this....

Springer Bicycle Dog Jogger .. Biking & Exercising Your Dog

WalkyDog Dog Jogger, WalkyDog Dog Exerciser


it helps make it safer and you have full control of the bike without the dog being able to pull and throw you off. also start off by walking him next to the bike so he can get used to it.


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## RazinKain (Sep 13, 2010)

I would be more concerned about your own personal safety equipment (a helmet). My Kain is the world's worst about cutting in front of me and stopping right there. I can't count the times he's almost tripped me in the house.  Taking him on a bike run would be absolutely unnerving for me.


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## liv (Sep 1, 2010)

I haven't gotten anything yet since I still have probably a month or so of snow left , but this is what I am actually planning on ordering tomorrow:

Bike Tow Leash - About Us I like the look of this bike attachment better than some of the others since it is more stable and I really want the dogs to be able to pull the bike for a little extra muscle building. (Check out the video of the 170 lb Dane - he's built like a horse!) I'm going to get one for me and one for my DH. 

For a harness (since they will be pulling) I am going to go with the Urban Trail harness from Alpine Outfitters - Phone/Fax: 1-360-659-3800 - We fit your dog sled equipment needs. This is the only harness I have found that is far enough back that I don't think it will rub in the dog's armpits (my female is very sensitive about anything rubbing there). There is a better description and picture at Custom-Made Padded Urban Trail Sport Dog Harness but they don't sell them there anymore. They have an adjustable one as well that I am thinking about for my male since he's still got some filling out to do.

ETA: Also, obviously a helmet , I'm getting a new bike computer so I can keep track of distance and speed, and I have heard a mirror for your bike is useful to keep an eye on your dog when you're in traffic etc.


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## Syaoransbear (Sep 25, 2008)

I've used a prong before and it was fine, but I have a springer bike attachment so if I did dump the bike the little plastic piece would just snap and he wouldn't get tangled with the bike.

I think the biggest danger of using a prong would be if you tie it to the bike or bike handles. If you are holding the leash, you can just drop it if you fall. The problem with holding the leash is that if the dog does lunge or pull, the dog could pull you and the bike over.


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## DJEtzel (Feb 11, 2010)

Is there a specific reason why an attachment would be more than necessary? I've just never liked the idea of them, personally. They seem... weak and uncontrollable to me. I'd like to be able to move him out of the way if we had any issues with obstacles such as people, dogs, etc. and not have him pull away and break free... or does this not happen? I'll admit that I do not have a lot of knowledge on those attachments, just always thought I'd rather HOLD the leash (not attach to bike in any way). 

Frag is also not a bit of a weaver, especially when we're jogging/running. I don't know that he won't do that with a new object like a bike, but I will try it out walking first to see how he does. He learned the hard way that if he walks in front of me, I walk through him, and he stopped that quick. Plus, he's always rewarded in Heel position, so he has no good reason to move elsewhere logically speaking. 

I'd really like to get into bikejoring and having him pull it as he has experience pulling weight in harness already, but I really have nowhere to practice such a thing living in the city now, and his directional cues are NOT what they used to be. I guess I'm taking the easy way out for now..

eta; I was not really worried about the holding the leash and him pulling me, because he responds to prong pressure VERY well and a small tug would correct any bit of lunging he ever thought about doing, not that he's ever lunged at anything to begin with. He's so sensitive, if he pulled against a prong he'd probably kill himself emotionally. Just having the prong ON will usually straighten him up more because he's so sensitive. (while he is sensitive, he also bounces back well. He can take a mild correction and get on with it after praise for a job well done, etc.)


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## liv (Sep 1, 2010)

DJEtzel said:


> Is there a specific reason why an attachment would be more than necessary?


The only one I have found that I liked was the one I mentioned in my post, since it seems very stable (it attaches at the rear axle) and it essentially keeps the dog in a heel position, and going where the bike is going, even if it wants to head in a different direction. I would love to start bikejoring, and this is my way of easing into it, since with the harness the dog can actually be pulling the bike while being beside me, and the directional cues can be reinforced/taught without the dog actually being in control of my direction. I guess the difference is I WANT the dog to pull, which wouldn't really work with a prong and leash (which is what I would probably use if I wasn't using a bike attachment). My male is also somewhat dog reactive, so I would worry if I was holding the leash in a busy area, I wouldn't have enough focus on both the dog and what was going on around me - this takes out the worry that he will be able to pull me over. I'm not worried about the dog breaking free, since they look to be very well made, and I will probably have them on a flat collar with a leash for my own peace of mind, at least at first.


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## Syaoransbear (Sep 25, 2008)

DJEtzel said:


> Is there a specific reason why an attachment would be more than necessary?


It's not necessary, but it feels a lot safer and easier to me. It was after a few weeks of riding around with a leash in my hand that I decided to try an attachment, and I love it because it's so hands free. Instead of having to coordinate a dog and a bike, I just have to maneuver one dog/bike entity.

I didn't like not being able to use both of my brakes, and not being able to use hand signals because I was holding a leash. Also, when I got off of my bike to move my bike and dog around obstacles, it was really annoying trying to get the dog and the bike to go where I wanted them to go when they were separate. It was a lot easier when the attachment made them become basically one unit. 

Also, one time Chrono saw an outdoor cat running and he lunged for it HARD. The back tire of the bike moved maybe 2 inches and that was it, and the plastic part never broke. The spring took so much of the force I barely felt it. I was impressed.

If you don't want an attachment and your dog responds that well to a prong collar, you'll be fine riding around with a leash and a prong. But I gotta say, an attachment is rreeaalll convenient .


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## Kris10 (Aug 26, 2010)

Ride Your Bike & Walk Your Dog | Bike Tow Leash











:thumbup:


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## CassandGunnar (Jan 3, 2011)

I don't have any attachments that I use. I have a 4' lead that I loop over my left wrist and I have only a flat collar on the dog. I wear a helmet and I wear a pair of leather work gloves only because the loop/handle of the leash won't slide down on my hand. I have only spilled once and that was at a stop sign when I was moving really slow and my foot slipped off the side of my peddle. 

To get the dogs used to going with the bike, you could try walking the dog right next to the bike. I never did this, but it's an option. When I started with the dogs, I did use a slip/"choke" collar. I only had to do that a couple of times just so I could give quicker corrections to the dogs. After about 3-4 rides, I went back to the flat collar.
My dogs are pretty good on a leash but you have to pay attention to them and read them. If I notice either dog paying too much attention on something, I just ride a little faster so that they have to focus on moving forward instead of on a squirrel or a couple of kids walking another dog. (Another one of the few things I agree with Cesar about......)

I started with a 6' leash and worked my way down to a 4'. I'm 6'6" tall so my seat is up pretty high and a 4' lead keeps the dogs in a better "heel" position and doesn't allow them to get in front of the bike. I guess you'd have to to experiment with what works best.
I've always felt safe when biking with my dogs, either one at a time or both of them together. (I have a double 5' lead for this, but it seems like my dogs like to go at different speeds so one at a time works better)
This video is from about 2 years ago, in the spring, at my parents house.


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## kiya (May 3, 2010)

I started taking my dogs out with the bicycle over 6 years ago. I never tried one of those attachments and personally I would rather have my leashes in my hand not attached to the bike. I use two 4' leads attached to each other this way I can go short or long. I also use a prong depending on the dog. The 8 yr old male can go in a plain flat collar, I like the prong on the 6 yr old (she'll pull like a freight train)and the 14 month old pup. I can take all 3 together, but right now I've been working each dog individually because they are all at different requirements for exercise. I never let them get ahead of me, learned that the hard way once when they ended up crossing in front of me. It's actually easier to get a "heel" when they are jogging than walking. So they stay in heel position and stop when I ask.
I also spoke to my new vet whom specializes in orthopedics about riding on the road since the ticks are starting already and it is almost impossible to find them in the 2 long coated dogs. I explained how I keep the speed down as much as I can so the dogs only at a slow jog and I try to stay on the side where they can go on dirt sometimes. She told me they should be fine and that it was really important to keep my older dog moving because of the arthritis. So I do feel a lot better about the roads. I love it because I have a problem with my knee and I could never walk them the distance they need to go. Good luck and have fun.


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## DJEtzel (Feb 11, 2010)

Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions! I think I will start out with the leash like a lot of you have done and buy an attachment after a few weeks if I feel it may be more convenient. I just wanted to make sure it'd be safe, really.

Honestly CassandGunnar, that video almost scared me into not wanting to do this. I don't think I've ever seen a dog run next to a bike before, and it looks SO unsafe from a pedestrian standpoint. Haha. Wish me luck!


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## CassandGunnar (Jan 3, 2011)

DJEtzel said:


> Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions! I think I will start out with the leash like a lot of you have done and buy an attachment after a few weeks if I feel it may be more convenient. I just wanted to make sure it'd be safe, really.
> 
> Honestly CassandGunnar, that video almost scared me into not wanting to do this. I don't think I've ever seen a dog run next to a bike before, and it looks SO unsafe from a pedestrian standpoint. Haha. Wish me luck!


It's not that bad. We do tend to take up an entire sidewalk, but if we see someone coming, we just move into the street or on the boulevard. About 90% of our normal ride is on pavement trails and I ride on the edge and they run on the grass. 
Also, I normally only ride with one at a time, but my mom didn't believe that I ride with them. (Keep in mind, I grew up with draft horses so "driving" a couple of dogs is nothing compared to Percherons) 
With Gunnar, since he's been doing it for several years, I can "gee/haw" him and get him to turn in the direction I want him to go. Now, with Cass being so full of drive and energy, I take her first and go about 3-4 miles and we vary our pace and stop if we need a break. When I get her home, I take Gunnar for a couple of miles and he goes at a much slower pace. I also have bad knees and can't walk as far as I'd like so we all benefit from it.

I like to start out as soon as all the snow is off the streets and it's safe enough and warm enough. I got to go 3 days last week, but it's only 15 degrees here now so we'll be on a break for a while.

The biggest problem I had was the dogs being nervous about the pedals coming so close to them. My dogs are pretty good about it and they just love going for a run. It really wears them out as well.
If your dog is ok on a leash, you'll have no problems............if I can do it, you'll have no problems.

GOOD LUCK


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## mnm (Jan 9, 2006)

I got a Springer about 6 years ago. I personally like it because the dog 's harness is clipped to the springer, and then I use a leash on the collar (sometimes a prong if needed) just for a little more control. This keeps the dog from getting in front of the bike and cutting across, or lagging behind. A 4 foot leash works the best, as I slip my hand through the loop and then just loop it across the handle bar at the length needed for each dog. (I do not loop it around the handle bar.) I've never been dumped from the bike, and it didn't take very long for the dogs to learn turns and slowing down. Just use a command and light direction on leash. Also, my dogs are only allowed to trot beside the bike, not run. They can cover a lot of distance in a good steady jog, with much less effort. (That's what they were bred to do.) 

I've had dogs from peoples yards come running out, but with a couple of reminder pops on the leash to remind my dog to keep going, the other dogs usually stop and give up. Once I learn which dogs are problems, I will go the opposite direction to keep the bike between them and my dog, then there's not any problems any more.


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## Chicagocanine (Aug 7, 2008)

DJEtzel said:


> Is there a specific reason why an attachment would be more than necessary? I've just never liked the idea of them, personally. They seem... weak and uncontrollable to me. I'd like to be able to move him out of the way if we had any issues with obstacles such as people, dogs, etc. and not have him pull away and break free... or does this not happen? I'll admit that I do not have a lot of knowledge on those attachments, just always thought I'd rather HOLD the leash (not attach to bike in any way).


If the leash is held in hand, it is very easy for the dog to pull the bike off balance or cause it to swerve even if they just tugged a little, because of the location of your hands on the bike (above the center of gravity, plus being on the handlebars which are what turns the bike.)
The attachments generally have a spring or other means (low attachment point/center of gravity) to prevent the dog from being able to pull the bike off course, so with an attachment, even if the dog suddenly lunged, they could not pull the bike off course or cause it to tip/swerve while the bike is moving.. I have had a dog try to chase a squirrel while on the K9 Cruiser and the bike did not swerve at all. They should not be weak and should not allow the dog to break free, the exception being the Springer IF you use the release clip they come with. 
I also haven't had a problem with being able to direct the dog while using an attachment, they just come along with the bike and follow the bike's direction with no problem. The attachment keeps them from getting too close to the wheels or in most cases from being able to go around the other side (depends which attachment it is.)


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## gsdmi (Apr 4, 2009)

We have the Bike Tow Leash and highly recommend it. We got it last summer, when we had a foster dog, who needed huge amounts of exercise and LOVED to run.

IMO the Bike Tow Leash is better than the ones with the higher center of gravity. It hooks to the back tire/axle of the bike, vs. under the seat. I am a clutz and thought I could easily be pulled over with the higher connection. The BTL is easy to hook up, and very easy to use. You do tend to take up the entire sidewalk, but it usually isn't an issue. Also, the "bar" part of it keeps the dog from getting too close to the tires, pedals, etc - you can adjust the position slightly if needed, and retighten.

It was used with our young (18 month old) foster dog, who ran full out (he registered close to 15 mph) as well as much slower, with our 7 year old and 10 year old dog, more of a trot with them. You can use a regular collar, we did, but will be getting a harness for our female this year. She is a little smaller, and we think the harness will be a little better for her.

You can only take one dog -- in fact, we are considering getting a second so we can go on "family" rides. 

I do have a friend who has the Walky Dog and loves it, but thinks she may get a bike tow leash, as the Walky Dog does affect her balance a little. 

Once you start with the leash, if you think you'll like riding with your dog, give it a try, I think you will be surprised and like it!


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## Hunther's Dad (Mar 13, 2010)

I use a Springer and leash like mmm does. I like the extra control that both of them provide, as all of my dogs are cat and squirrel chasers.

Don't ride any faster than you'd want to be going if you fell! I used to take Hunther out and let him sprint. He got up to 22 mph once, I had this thought, and the next thing out of my mouth was "WHOA!" 

Helmet or not, that's one experience I can do without. Now it's 7 mph.


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## Jax's Mom (Apr 2, 2010)

I use a prong and 4 foot leash. A flat to him is "just a suggestion". 
I had to run over him once for him to learn it's not a race :rofl: now he just spends the whole time trying to bite my butt 
The springers are better because your centre of gravity is really low on a bike and when the dog is tied to the bike seat, you're almost un-tippable. At the handle bars, it doesn't take much. 
I found running on a bike to be pretty natural for most dogs.


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## Chicagocanine (Aug 7, 2008)

Here is another attachment I've been looking at:
Welcome to Bikerdog.com










I am trying to decide if I want to get another K9 Cruiser to replace the stolen one, or if I should try a different bike attachment this time. I did like the K9 Cruiser... The Bikerdog one looks pretty good too, but it sticks out to the side a lot compared to the K9 Cruiser.


I also found this interesting, it's a scooter or trike with a special side attachment that encourages the dog to help power the vehicle:
DOGPOWEREDSCOOTER.COM


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## lhczth (Apr 5, 2000)

I have been biking dogs with a Springer since the mid 90's. They are very safe. I attach the springer to either a fursaver or flat collar and then have a leash going to a prong collar. They also used to have a harness for the Springers, but those put my dog too far forward with the potential for cutting in front of the bike.


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## Caledon (Nov 10, 2008)

I have a springer and like it. It does not fit my bike the best and I have to be careful where I place my foot on the peddle or else I will hit the back of the bar with my heel. One part stays on the bike and the bar quickly attaches so it is easy to take apart/assemble when required.

I don't use a leash, but might try that for more control. The very first time we used it my 19 year old son tried it. Of course this had to be the day that my neighbours wheaten terrier pulled away from his owner and came charging towards us. Dakota can be reative in situations like this. I just stepped in front of the charging dog and ordered him to stop, which he did. After asking the owners if he was friendly I picked up his leash and returned him. Dakota did lunge, but he quickly got her under control. My son said that he hardly felt it and he was never concerned about beig knocked off. He approved it for his much older and not as agile mother. 

I can't wait till I can take her out again. 

What I might purchase for added "springiness" (if there is such a word), is an attachement that is made out of strechy rubber with clips on both ends. This would absorb more shock.

I do not use the quick release tab.


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## liv (Sep 1, 2010)

In case anyone is interested in the Bike Tow Leash, they are available for a limited time at Bike Tow Leash | 1-Running-Dog Bike Tow Leash® for $114.95 (vs $149 everywhere else!) I got two so we can take both dogs and go for family rides


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## mssandslinger (Sep 21, 2010)

i used to ride a bike untill one day my lab saw a bunny before i could say leave is and pulled to the right really hard and i went up and over the bike and her. so im apprehensive about bike after that lol


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## Esmiralda33 (Mar 21, 2010)

I've always used a belt leash to a harness. I researched all the attachments when I started biking with the dogs and just couldn't get over the fear of me falling off and a terrified dog running down the trail with a bike crashing along behind them. I just feel better knowing the dog is attached to me.


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## BlackPuppy (Mar 29, 2007)

There is a Schutzhund test called Ausdauerprüfung (AD) where the dog must trot next to a bicycle. So, train your dog and no "springer" needed.

This is actually what I do. I've thought about using a "springer" or the like, but I like to have my hand on the leash and view of my dog.


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## Castlemaid (Jun 29, 2006)

The rules do allow for a Springer for the AD, though I trained and trialed with collar and leash only with Keeta.


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## DJEtzel (Feb 11, 2010)

Well, we went on our first ride together today. I actually rode (seperately) both dogs, even though I was wary about how Bailey would do. 

Frag was a champ. I did have his prong on in case he got distracted, but he kept up and kept a steady jog next to the bike the whole time. We only went through the subdivision and fraternity drive and back though. Would it be too much if I started doing this with the backpack on soon?

Bailey did OK and actually ran harder/faster than Frag did willingly (I matched their pace, didn't make either run if they didn't want to). I had her on a flat collar since she's so small and light. She was very afraid of the bike and stood further away, but I was okay with that, once she got moving she became less afraid. She did decide to cut in front of me while I had my feet on the ground and was slowly rolling while she was sniffing to potty once we got back and I rolled right over the leash, sending her flipping around and that shook her up a bit, but she bounces back well.  

I don't know if I'd feel confident with the springer after this because I couldn't let it out so that they could potty, I couldn't see them real well, and I couldn't control them as easily as I can with the leash. If Bailey got too close I'd put my arm out so that she couldn't get closer, and I used the same method to keep Frag turning since he doesn't pay attention to left turns to save his life.


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## lhczth (Apr 5, 2000)

Having been pulled right over on my light weight mountain bike by a dog on a pinch diving for a stick, I will continue to use my Springer.


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## CassandGunnar (Jan 3, 2011)

DJEtzel said:


> Well, we went on our first ride together today. I actually rode (seperately) both dogs, even though I was wary about how Bailey would do.
> 
> Frag was a champ. I did have his prong on in case he got distracted, but he kept up and kept a steady jog next to the bike the whole time. We only went through the subdivision and fraternity drive and back though. Would it be too much if I started doing this with the backpack on soon?
> 
> ...


 
:happyboogie: Glad it went so well. I mostly take mine one at a time, just because Cass wants to go really fast, all the time, and Gunnar is more laid back and changes pace a lot.
The only time I "outpace" them is if I see something ahead that Cass might get distracted on or chase. Then I speed up so she has to focus on running and not on anything else. (This works great, but I'd build up to that)
The only time I stop is if an uncontrolled dog approaches, either a "lose" dog or one on a leash that the owner can't handle. I stop and wait for them to pass. 
Enjoy, it's a great way for the dogs to burn off lots of energy.


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## DJEtzel (Feb 11, 2010)

lhczth said:


> Having been pulled right over on my light weight mountain bike by a dog on a pinch diving for a stick, I will continue to use my Springer.


If I had any other dog, I would probably insist on the springer. But Frag is so sensitive to the prong that I literally don't feel resistence. He will NOT lung against the prong, he'd yelp and jump back if he got halfway into thinking about lunging. Whether it be other dogs, squirrels, rabbits, etc. the prong will easily stop him from anything, although he's great under voice control and a simple "No" will stop him from thinking about chasing anything or lunging. We've worked his recall and off leash behavior hard for this reason exactly. I'm a small woman and I cannot phsyically control a lunging GSD, so it is simply unnacceptable. 

I may still get the springer anyway, just to free up my hands, but I don't really feel like I NEED it with either dog. Honestly, Bailey was jostling me around more than Frag. I can see the springer coming in handy with fosters, new additions, or puppies though, thank you! 

And thank you CassandGunnar, it is definitely fun, I appreciate all the advice/tips!


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## mnm (Jan 9, 2006)

I've never used my springer without also having a leash on the collar or prong. Much more control, and as someone else said, with the attachment on the main seat post of the bike the center of gravity keeps you from being pulled over. I've never been dumped, and I have some pretty good prey drive dogs at times. 

My suggestion is - if you have a hard going dog, then you might want to use the prong, - an easy going dog, then on a flat collar will work just great. One of the most important things to me, about training, is to find what works best with the individual dog.


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## Chicagocanine (Aug 7, 2008)

I always use a harness for my dogs for biking.


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## mnm (Jan 9, 2006)

Too late to edit my last post, but I use a harness that is attached to the springer and then a leash on the collar or prong... just to clarify...


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Bike Tow Leash or Springer? I can't decide.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I think it depends on the dog. I have trained Arwen, Rush, Jenna, Heidi, and Babs to run along with my bike. I do not have any type of attachment. I use a flat collar and lead. I would NEVER use a prong collar, choke chain, gentle leader or halti for this. Of course, I NEVER use prongs or haltis or gentle leaders. But I do not even like to use a martingale on the bike. I do not start a dog on the bike until they are good at loose lead walking. 

Then, I do not start them out on the road. I take them to the fairgrounds and get them used to the bike -- does not take long -- minutes not hours. After that, I will run them in town, but only late at night when it is quiet. I trust my dogs, I do not trust drivers. Been a cyclist too long.


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## Deuce'sMom (Jul 4, 2008)

I actually had stabilizer wheels attached to my bicycle and it is now effectively a hybrid bicycle/3 wheeler - not for everyone I realize but works great for me. I have had some health concerns and now I am able to bike with my dog without him pulling me over. I am able to hold the leash in my hand and he is on his pinch collar. We have gone by barking/lunging dogs, etc - no problem. Works great. Not for everyone - but it is great for me.


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## KendraLovey (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks for the awesome thread Tons of good info. It really helps me because I think that Schindler would profit so much from jogging with the bike.


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## CassandGunnar (Jan 3, 2011)

Samba said:


> Bike Tow Leash or Springer? I can't decide.


I know this is a few weeks old, but check out your bike and the differences between the two items. I have heard of one or the other not fitting real well, depending on they type of bike you ride and how much you have on the seat post area.
I've only heard this from people I know, I've never looked into it myself.

When Audrey and I bought new bikes a few weeks ago, I asked the guy at the bike shop and he said that either one would fit on either of our bikes.


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## Kris10 (Aug 26, 2010)

CassandGunnar said:


> I know this is a few weeks old, but check out your bike and the differences between the two items. I have heard of one or the other not fitting real well, depending on they type of bike you ride and how much you have on the seat post area.
> I've only heard this from people I know, I've never looked into it myself.
> 
> When Audrey and I bought new bikes a few weeks ago, I asked the guy at the bike shop and he said that either one would fit on either of our bikes.


The Bike Tow Leash attaches to the side of the back wheel, so it must be the other one that you can have trouble fitting.


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## CassandGunnar (Jan 3, 2011)

Kris10 said:


> The Bike Tow Leash attaches to the side of the back wheel, so it must be the other one that you can have trouble fitting.


You are correct. I was thinking of the Springer and the WalkyDog. 
:help: I'm an idiot.


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## Rerun (Feb 27, 2006)

I just bought a bike after not being on one for probably 15 years. It was a bit of a wobbly first ride, but I went just a couple short miles this morning and felt much more confident. Had my SO spend a few minutes helping with Dante to get used to it (riding back and forth and walking beside the bike in motion) as well as a few minutes going over turning and I had the confidence to give it a shot. His solid training foundation has paid off - used a prong which he's very light and responsive to and a 6 ft leather police lead clipped to the 4 foot length. He had probabably two to two and a half feet of actual lead, the rest drooped and I had my hand over it on the handle bar so in the event of a crash I could just lift hand and let go.

I'll update in a month or so if I land in the hospital, but I plan to make this a daily thing with him. Great exercise! I kept him at a trot and only went a mile or so including training time before taking him around a short block. He did AWESOME like he'd been doing it for years.


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## GermanShepherds6800 (Apr 24, 2011)

With the device the dogs pulling and weight do not affect your balance. People riding them along bikes without have received severe injuries like broken neck and back. It fits the bike at the rear wheel where most of your weight would keep the dog from pulling the bike out from under you if something caught the dogs attention and they tried to dart off. This in turn makes it safer for the dog as it cannot break free from you and dash into oncoming cars or anything. 

Make sure you start your dog slow and short rides. Make sure pavement is not hot. Make sure the dogs pads are protected or are not getting injured. Make sure you dog is xrayed and cleared for any joint issues before this strenuous exercise.


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## mtmarabianz (Jan 7, 2010)

With summer watch for heat stroke, in the dog & rider


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## KDH (May 19, 2011)

So... reading all these and looking at the products make me wonder if anyone TRIKES with their dogs? My husband and I both have big trikes (ya know, adult-sized, 3-wheel "bikes"). We've gone on walks before where I've walked on my own footies with Hayden on a leash and my dh rides his trike, and it would be neat for both of us to be able to ride and have her on the leash with us.

Problem I'm afraid of is the pup forgetting that the trike is wider behind than in front - so if she's _next_ to the rider's leg, I'm really afraid of her getting clipped by one of the rear tires, though, or worse, getting a nose/leg through the spokes. Does anyone have any input or advice about triking?


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## Gmthrust (Mar 3, 2010)

KDH, this photo shows how fenders were added to the back wheels of our double-Springer dog trike. I don't have a photo to show more precise details...but my husband put them on a more forward-slant....tilted toward the front angle (as opposed to the even-steven straight up and down traditional wheel fender position). Our girls are able to maneuver away their hindquarters from the back wheels because we put the double-Springer up above the pedals on the main forward support frame of the trike and gave them a bit of extra bungee-cord to their harnesses:


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## Gmthrust (Mar 3, 2010)

If anyone needs a better photo showing the details, I'll ask GM to get the pictures for me. pI'm hopelessly techie-not. It took me a couple of days just to figure out how to do the last post.)


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