# Socialization for a working dog?



## crisp (Jun 23, 2010)

I was curious how does everyone who participates in the dog sport world socialize their pups/dogs. Do you follow the same general socialization process you would with just a family pet? If not, what are the differences. I guess I'm interesting in the differences in socialization for working dogs, mainly how to progress with the dog to make him a comfortable social animal without inhibiting any of its working ability or prey drive.

Along the same lines of questions, do you instill any type of bite inhibition with your working pup? Or do you simply redirect to toys/tugs when playing? 

And finally, for the handlers with little kids and a puppy, how involved are your kids with the pup? I don't mean training but the overall playing and petting etc. Obviously its supervised, but do you limit this interaction in any way?


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

I socialized my pup just like any other pup. But I made sure my pup was exposed to everything possible that was safe, and build his confidence during that time. 
Textures, things to walk on and over, gunshot, animals, people, strollers/wheelchairs, boat-rides,storms, farm animals, motorcycles, sirens, tractors, lawnmowers, swimming, parties were all things he was exposed to from 8 weeks on.
I got him in Spring, so Memorial day parades were on our schedule/we went to a few just for that socialization. He was about 3 months during the holiday.

I didn't correct him, instead redirected unwanted behavior(though he never had any, really) 
My pup wasn't overly mouthy,bitey either, he already had great bite inhibition, yet could/would tug all day and try to win.
As far as children, pups should be around them, IMO so they are neutral to them as they mature. 
I'm on the side of companion first, worker 2nd, so the thought of over crating/kenneling bringing the dog out for training only is NOT what I did.
I also didn't limit him with the other dogs in the home, he'd rather be with me over them anyway.
I did do a couple puppy playtime sessions so he was ok with other dogs than my own. I didn't want a reactive dog. But genetically, I don't think that mattered as he is fine in all situations.


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## crisp (Jun 23, 2010)

onyx'girl said:


> I'm on the side of companion first, worker 2ndQUOTE]
> 
> If these were reversed, do you think your approach would differ at all?


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

No, but I know many kennel their working dogs more often than they are "free" to keep the focus on the handler only, not other people or animals.


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## Elaine (Sep 10, 2006)

My dog was a landshark as a pup and would bite everything and anything that caught his eye. I never did any bite inhibition, just redirected as needed. I was never so happy as when he finally lost the super sharp puppy teeth so my arms and legs wouldn't bleed quite so much. He quit biting around six months of age. You have to keep a sense of humor about the biting and laugh about the holes in your clothes or you will never make it.

I socialized the snot out of my dog from day one and he's now got the attitude of "been there, done that" about everything so nothing bothers him.

I did almost no correcting of him as I practiced redirection religiously and channeled his energy into good behaviors.

My dog is a pet first and a serious competition dog second.


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## elisabeth_00117 (May 17, 2009)

onyx'girl said:


> I socialized my pup just like any other pup. But I made sure my pup was exposed to everything possible that was safe, and build his confidence during that time.
> Textures, things to walk on and over, gunshot, animals, people, strollers/wheelchairs, boat-rides,storms, farm animals, motorcycles, sirens, tractors, lawnmowers, swimming, parties were all things he was exposed to from 8 weeks on.
> I got him in Spring, so Memorial day parades were on our schedule/we went to a few just for that socialization. He was about 3 months during the holiday.
> 
> ...


Same here. 

Except, Stark is reactive but with age and training has helped. 

I believe his WAS genetic.


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