# 10 month old is extremely dog reactive?? Rant.



## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

I've only had Charlie for a couple of weeks now. The breeder I got him from had reduced his price significantly due to his age. She had planned on giving him to her mother but there was a change of plans due to her hip surgery. Anyway I wanted to adopt at a younger age because I wanted to socialize the dog properly. I also really want to participate in things like agility, obedience, etc. She claimed he was well socialized with other dogs and she had good reviews. So I decided to just give him a go...

I ended up with the worst case scenario. I can't go on walks without him lunging and screaming at other dogs. He's 10 months at 78 pounds. I'm a 124 pound female so he pulls me along for the ride. It's so embarrassing. He's even pulled out of his harness which is usually on pretty tight. The first time I took him in Petsmart he made a huge scene, lunging at all the dogs and knocking things off shelves. One being one an employee had just organized. It was so strange though because when I met with the breeder at her home, there were many dogs around of all sizes and he was just fine. When he's not being reactive he's amazing. He's housebroken, does pretty good on a leash, and he's good with people. It's just this dog issue that's so frustrating. I also recently noticed he treats small kids the same way he does dogs which is even more concerning. The breeder had small kids as well so I don't know why he's acting up now. I'm planning to get him neutered in hopes that it'll mellow him out. I'm also taking him to obedience classes where he acts up as well since there are other dogs there. Even the trainer said she doesn't think he's been told "no" his whole life.

I'm trying to stay hopeful but I'll seriously be shocked if I can get him under control. And sorry my pic uploaded sideways.


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## tim_s_adams (Aug 9, 2017)

Congratulations on the new puppy! Understand that this is not at all uncommon. Lots of puppies and dogs experience leash reactivity toward other dogs or people or kids. 

There are several causes, fear, excitement, barrier frustration etc., but the solution is usually the same...obedience! Your puppy may never have had, or only infrequently had, a leash on previously. They can feel a bit trapped by the leash. But the good news is, in most cases, it's not too hard to get them over that shock and teach them how to behave!

What you need is a good balanced, GSD experienced trainer to help you! Chances are they'll be able to help you teach your dog to walk nicely and behave in just a couple sessions. 

If you tell us where you're located roughly, chances are someone here can recommend a good trainer for you.


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## Kyrielle (Jun 28, 2016)

So, he's 10 months old. That's the time when they're royal pains in the neck as they're testing their authority with you and everyone around them. Your job is to tell them YOU have authority in all matters, and YOU are boss lady with everyone around the two of you.

How do you do that? You'll see it mentioned hundreds of times on this forum: NILIF: Nothing in Life is Free. This means your boy must accomplish some task, however small, to get what he wants. If he wants to go outside, he must sit by the door until you say he's allowed to leave. If he wants to meet a person or dog, he must sit off to the side quietly until you give the okay (which right now would involve no greeting at all). If he wants his food, he has to do something to get the food (sit, lay down, dance on two legs, you choose).

Everything now requires work on his part. Working with you thus gets him what he wants.

You're also going to work on the power of "no!". "No!" is now your word for whenever he doesn't do what you asked. And when you say "no", you're going to say it like you mean it. Say it like you're a cop telling someone what to do--leave no room for argument. If he refuses to listen to you, refuse to give him what he wants. GSDs want to please their leaders, and when they start to see you as the leader, "no!" makes them very submissive and apologetic. (You can find other ways to correct the dog, but I'd ask a trainer for that advice).

This will help assert your authority and start to cut down on some of his over-emotional reactions to dogs. In terms of addressing the reactivity problem, I'd hire a trainer. Until then, give the following a go:

1. Get rid of the harness and get a collar that will offer more corrective power: martingale or prong would work well. Research on how to properly use these collars, and that will give you more leverage and reduce his ability to pull you over. Harnesses encourage pulling (why do you think they put sled dogs and weight-training dogs in harnesses?), and we don't want to encourage that anymore.
2. Stop taking him to PetsMart for the time being. It's a crowded place with people and things everywhere, and crowded places are a disaster for reactive dogs.
3. Put as much distance between Charlie and other dogs as possible. Find the line where he stops reacting (i.e. stops focusing and waiting intensely). Make him sit. Do not let him get up. If he gets up, give him a strong "no!" and put him back in a sit.
4. When he sits quietly and the dog passes, praise him with great praise. He just won the lottery. You can give him treats, but praise works excellently when a bond has been established.
5. Rinse and repeat, moving closer over time. Only move close when he consistently shows he does not care about the dog moving by. Encourage him to look at you while he's sitting down.

But again, get a trainer to help you out with timing and body language.


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## sebrench (Dec 2, 2014)

It's great that you're going to an obedience class. Are you seeing a balanced trainer who is accustomed to working with GSDs and working dogs--not all training methods work with all dogs or breeds. What is your trainer's plan to correct his behavior? If your trainer seems unsure of how to help you, or you're not getting very good results, you could share your location and someone here might be able to recommend someone, or you could look for IPO/Schutzhund/GSD clubs in your area. 

What does the breeder say? Since you've only had him a couple weeks, will they take him back if it's not the right match? How do you react when you see another dog or child? Try to be calm and confident and visualize success. If you get nervous or tense, gasp, stop breathing, tighten the leash, ect, dogs can pick up on that and react. GSDs are really good at picking up on our emotions. I also would pick a good collar over a harness. Although they are controversial, I have had decent results using a prong collar with a reactive dog. It could help give you a sense of confidence and control. But you should have a working dog trainer (or someone experienced) confirm that it's a good idea in your situation and show you how to fit and use one. 

Keep working on his basic commands at your house and in your yard. When he is strong in those areas venture out to somewhere more distracting, like a quiet place in a park where he can see people but you're not too close. Work up to areas that are more public and crowded.Be vigilant when you are out. Be calm and matter-of-fact when you see a dog approaching, give your boy a leash correction right before he reacts (lowered head, fixed gaze, hackling, ect). Then re-direct him with a command like sit or heel or watch me, and reward him when he obeys. Timing is really important and a good trainer can help you. Good luck! I hope things get easier.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

You need private training lessons. Not a group lesson. He sounds like he's never been socialized off the property and never been taught manners. Hes not bad. He just doesnt know.

Where do you live? Someone can probably suggest an appropriate trainer.


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## cloudpump (Oct 20, 2015)

Neutering is not a cure all. Do some research first.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

I to would suggest a private trainer route and yes neutering will not change anything. Maturity helps to connect the dots and a trainer will help with those dots.


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## Apex1 (May 19, 2017)

The Collared Scholar has an online reactivity course. I do not know when the next one opens. I am beyond pleased with the experience. Finding an in person good trainer never worked out for me. Love, love, love The Collared Scholar.


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## Saco (Oct 23, 2018)

Apex, what did the Collared Scholar do that was different than other trainers you've seen or worked with? I've read her stuff, and frankly, she seems like she is still struggling with some major issues with her own dogs. 

OP- if you post your location, people on the board can help locate a GSD experienced trainer to help. I'm betting this problem can be solved fairly readily.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Another thing that works really well and I worked with max a lot on wAs “leave it” it worked the best and is ingrained in Max who does not care for other dogs. Good to learn “leave it “and know the command well with smaller distraction and then build up.

We were at the park in trails and I was caught off guard with max and Luna both on leashes -when a friendly rambunctious huge young dog came bounding over to us looked like a yellow lab but not and had no ears. The dog went Nose to nose with max and max jumped on him- just jumped - I called max off and then I got my crap together and the dog came over again- got my second chance - as the owner continues to walking away- calling the dog who was sweet and friendly but ignoring the owner. I said the magic word “leave it”and max just stood there ignoring this dog calmly as the dog sniffed his mouth, nose and butt. Max seemed to have not a care in the world. The dog came back yet again and max was so so good I was very proud of him. Luna had lost her mind though. She does not like strange dogs charging in her face but she always listened and had no issue with dogs. I don’t know if because she had her heat a few weeks ago. By the third visit from this dog she got her brain back. Even though the owner had continued walking away the entire time all I got was as he shouted out he is only 8 months old. I got to practice leave it with max at that encounter and it paid off with max. 
https://pin.it/6s2tmoorg3vyjg


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## MineAreWorkingline (May 2, 2015)

Latest studies have shown that early neutering can create dog aggression. Also it can wreak havoc on his bones and growth if done before full growth is done as well as create life long endocrine issues. 

As everybody else has already stated, find a balanced trainer familiar with the breed. I would stop taking him places for now where he exhibits bad behavior so he doesn't have opportunity to practice it.

Be kind to you new friend. He is just a young dog in a big body. You said there were kids and dogs at the breeders and he is probably missing his old friends as well as his old life. Do some fun things to bond with him. Take him for some hikes, play with him in the backyard. Do things that is fun for him too!


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

Well he attacked another dog today in class. He slipped out of his harness which was on pretty tight. It took three of us to get him off. We all figured from the get go he wanted to play. So this came as a shock to everyone. Fortunately the dog he went after is okay, but I'm not sure I want to risk it. Not to mention he lunges at small kids the way he does with dogs.


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## tim_s_adams (Aug 9, 2017)

Marlykat said:


> Well he attacked another dog today in class. He slipped out of his harness which was on pretty tight. It took three of us to get him off. We all figured from the get go he wanted to play. So this came as a shock to everyone. Fortunately the dog he went after is okay, but I'm not sure I want to risk it. Not to mention he lunges at small kids the way he does with dogs.


So, I guess from this recent episode you can assume that nearly everyone who has commented on your thread, suggesting a one-on-one training scenario were indeed correct. Don't blame the dog, he is acting according to his instincts and what he has, or has not, been taught. The blame for this incident is on you. Get a balanced, GSD experienced trainer to help you...And these issues will quickly be forgotten!


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

Please return him to the breeder. This is not the right fit for your skill set and now he has a big black mark against him. It's ok to say its not the right fit. There is no shame in that.

This dog will not work for what you want to do as far as sports and life style. At 10 months, the price of the dog should go up not down if the breeder is putting time and effort into him. Return him.


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## Saco (Oct 23, 2018)

Have you seen any training (IPO, ring, PSA... any bite work). They do exactly this. Put the dog in a harness, tease them with a rag, or sleeve, or helper, whatever, and then let the dog have a bite. It builds aggression and confidence. 

Inadvertently, the OP was doing just this in training class. The dog acted as he'd been trained, and directed his aggression at another dog in the class (the teaser in this case). 

I blame the trainer here, she/he set this dog up to fail from the start, and should have, early on, seen what was happening and given the OP different equipment- training techniques- or management (a barrier can help some dogs), OR given her a referral to a trainer who could help. 

OP has taken the dog to a training class, which is far more than most people do, and yet again, the "trainers" have failed both dog and owner. It's a shame, and happens far too often. 

If the OP is still involved with this thread, either return this puppy to the breeder, or post your location so we can recommend an experienced trainer to help. This poor dog is going to fail dramatically otherwise.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

Omg....that is NOT anything like IPO training or any bitework sport.


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## Saco (Oct 23, 2018)

I did not mean to say it was exactly like training bitework, only that the fundamentals of behavior were the same. 

My point is, using harnesses or collars, to hold back reactive dogs and doing nothing more tends to build frustration. Which is why chained dogs can be so dangerous, and why huskies are way up there on the dangerous dog lists due to incidents of serious injuries or death to people who wander into a dog yard. 

Pet owners who use harnesses on power breeds like a GSD and fail to train properly need to be aware of the potential fallout.


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## cliffson1 (Sep 2, 2006)

A harness should not be used with an aggressive reactive dog, unless DOING bitework under extensive supervision.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

If he had pulled out his harness once that is enough. How do you correct him if he is in a harness? What did your instructor say about you bringing him into a room filled with dogs in a harness with the issues you are having. Glad there were no kids in the class.


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

To the user who said it was my fault he attacked the dog, he was in the trainer's hands when he pulled out of the harness. I've only had this dog for a couple weeks and he's been like this from the start. Anyway, I don't know if anyone has any experience with prong collars, but I did some research and bought one for him. The brand is Sprenger. So it's not one of the cheap kinds. He actually responds very well to it along with the clicker/high quality treats. I lost hope for a bit there but now I feel like I can work with him. At home with no distractions he's very focused and he learns quickly. He just needs help re-socializing. I think I might start taking him to the dog park (not go in obviously) and start at a distance where he can see the dogs, but not react to them and use positive reinforcement to reward calm behavior. If nothing I have in mind seems to work then I will see about hiring a professional. Thanks for all the tips!


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## Heartandsoul (Jan 5, 2012)

Please hire a professional before you take him anywhere near a dog or dog park. If the prong collar is used incorrectly, the dog can be amped up and driven into a higher aggressive state. Don't wait until another mistake is made. You will be doing yourself and this dog a huge favor, especially since he is responding well to it with no dogs around. There is a learning curve to the proper use and if not done correctly, you can make his issue worse.

I am speaking from first hand experience as a novice owner. My guy can and has been amped up from a poorly timed correction and can power through the pressure of a properly fitted prong while dragging me belly down on the ground as if there was no weight hindering him.

Others will state the same, I'm sure.

One other consideration, those who will be in your proximity. There is an obligation of safety to them that can't be ignored.


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

Yes I am currently also looking around to see who is in my area. Thanks.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

Marlykat said:


> To the user who said it was my fault he attacked the dog, he was in the trainer's hands when he pulled out of the harness. I've only had this dog for a couple weeks and he's been like this from the start. !


I don't know who said that but I do want to address this. I am NOT picking on you. I'm speaking from experience of owning a dog aggressive dog and telling you this because this is your first dog so you didn't know.

First, you only had him 2 weeks before throwing him into a training class. Your previous posts rave about how great he is. Which contradicts your statement of he was like this from the start. But go back to the 2 weeks....You shouldn't be doing any classes with him this soon. He needed time to adjust to his new home, to you and to destress from it all. If the breeder never had an issue then this could possibly be part of the problem.

Second, if your dog is dog aggressive and you still took him to a group training class - regardless of who was holding the leash - this is ultimately your fault. Again, I'm not picking on you. I'm telling you that in order to move forward with this dog, you need to always take responsibility for the position you put him in. That is why it's your fault. I know you did not know this but now you need to make decisions on what's best for him. Once you accept this, you will make smarter choices for him.

Building on the above paragraph - first dog. You don't know how to train a dog. You bought a prong. And you are going to take him to the dog park and flood him with dogs. Why? 

A prong will ramp aggression. It's the wrong tool for this. How are you planning on teaching him the proper behavior? Just correcting him for reacting? Again...experience...this will NOT work. You need a correction collar that will suppress, not ramp. You need to teach him a behavior that is counter intuitive to attacking and reacting. You need obedience. I don't care how your dog feels about other dogs. He only has to accept they have a right to breathe and be obedient to you. 

You need a one on one trainer before you do anything else. I spent a very long time walking that path you are heading for and it does NOT work. 

Please tell us your general location and we can probably suggest a balanced trainer for you to save you the frustration.


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## tim_s_adams (Aug 9, 2017)

Jax08 said:


> I don't know who said that but I do want to address this. I am NOT picking on you. I'm speaking from experience of owning a dog aggressive dog and telling you this because this is your first dog so you didn't know.
> 
> First, you only had him 2 weeks before throwing him into a training class. Your previous posts rave about how great he is. Which contradicts your statement of he was like this from the start. But go back to the 2 weeks....You shouldn't be doing any classes with him this soon. He needed time to adjust to his new home, to you and to destress from it all. If the breeder never had an issue then this could possibly be part of the problem.
> 
> ...


I said it! But I was also NOT picking on you OP! Jax explained this perfectly! Too often in a situation like this a new owner will fault the dog, or even the trainer. My comment could and probably should have come with a more thorough explanation, but the intention was to get you to realize that you're the one in charge, you get to make all the decisions for this pup, so set him up for success not failure!

Somewhere around 18 times in this thread people mentioned (a) you need a 1-on-1 trainer, not a class, and (b) you should ditch the harness (which you mentioned in your first post the dog had already slipped out of!) in favor of a collar because it gives you better control.

Now I don't know if you're still reading this thread, but, looking back there were also many people suggesting that you get a prong collar. So you might be feeling a bit upset that several are NOW telling you not to use it. But go back and reread the advice. Nearly every time a prong collar was mentioned it was mentioned along with the advice to work with a good, balanced, GSD-experienced trainer to help you learn how to use it effectively. A prong can and will give you more control of this big puppy, but as folks have mentioned it can also amp your puppy up in some situations, which is exactly why it's a good idea to learn from a good trainer! 

That being said, while a prong collar will give you better control, it isn't a replacement for training. You still need to use distance and keep the dog under threshold, the point where he's losing it, and teach him that other dogs are not a threat and not important, and that just takes time and patience as folks have explained previously.

I can't help noticing that you have never responded when folks have asked your location, in order to help you find a good trainer. I can understand your reluctance to post that info in a public forum, BUT, just a very general location is all that's needed (northern Indiana for example). Many people on this forum travel to trial, train, and show their dogs, so they really can point you toward some very qualified trainers! Unfortunately, there are many very bad trainers. Working with the wrong trainer can, in addition to cost and wasted time, actually be bad for your dog! Good trainers are worth their weight in gold, please consider letting people help you find a good one! Good Luck with your pup!


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## Apex1 (May 19, 2017)

Saco said:


> Apex, what did the Collared Scholar do that was different than other trainers you've seen or worked with? I've read her stuff, and frankly, she seems like she is still struggling with some major issues with her own dogs.


I cannot speak to the second sentence, I am not privy to that. She seems open and honest, seems like she really cares about helping people help their dogs and honestly she has changed my world with my dog. I will always feel a debt to her, she is like a saint to me. 

To the OP Please listen to the advice Jax08 is giving.

To anyone googling reactive dog here is the short of my experience. I could go on and on, but I will try to brief. 

Apex is my first dog, had him since he was 7 weeks old he will be 2 in February. He is leash reactive (frustration) and impulsive off leash. He is non-aggressive, will charge any dog he sees, will hold his ground with an aggressive dog, will pester a fearful dog who won't stand still, he is so rude. He really enjoys dogs. I do very much think genetics play a role. I quit all free dog play a long time ago. I do not know anyone with dogs. I considered getting a another dog in hopes to satiate his love of other dogs, but was advised against it by people with 100x the experience I have. We do not do sports, but live on 12 wooded acres (no fence), he gets lots of off leash time doing dog things, training, nosework and loves a good session of fetch in the ocean. We hike and camp. 

I have spent countless hours trying to have a healthy, engaged, well trained dog. He is pretty healthy lol. This dog has made me fall in love with dogs (cat lady) despite our struggles. I did puppy class. I only hired one trainer (talked with a few) and met with one IPO club. This trainer handed me an ecollar at my first lesson. I already knew from experience that this was not my answer (without going into detail on my history), but I was desperate after an incident. At my next session the trainer says I cannot work with your dog like this (dog reactive), you have to get him to calm down. Shot to the heart, I remind the trainer that is why I am here…..he tells me to use a prong and do two things. Sharp turns and upward pressure forcing a sit and a body block. I know mostly better this is teaching my dog nothing, but I am desperate, and well he is a dog trainer…..I am completely unskilled with a prong collar; I never did the sharp turns. I did exposure Apex to triggers and while the first couple of body blocks seemed to help, his frustration quickly turned to aggression anytime he was reactive and the prong engaged. The only good thing about the prong was he wouldn't over power me. Quickly I parted ways with the trainer. I spoke with another ecollar trainer who went into great detail on how to slowly suppress the reactivity with the ecollar. I was on the fence; honestly it isn’t what I wanted to do. I wanted to teach my dog, I just didn’t know how. 

What I was always looking for the Collared Scholar has given me. I needed someone to teach me how to teach the dog. I will try to do justice to the program, which has another session starting January 15th 2019 btw for anyone reading this. 

Live Q&A sessions, research and resources, nosework games, private Facebook group, lectures and training videos. The 30 day course is to give you all the tools you need to combat reactivity, it is NOT a solve your problem in 30 days course. Some people may already have the behaviors well trained and can move much faster then someone like me no experience starting from scratch. Not that I hadn't taught anything, I just started like I have never have. The reactivity is approached from more than just getting good obedience on your dog. As far as obedience goes the behaviors that were taught via video were recall, middle, place, loose heel, loose leash walk, backing up to leash pressure (which is a cue you add before the pressure eventually) and leave it. The program details from start to finish TEACHING and the how and when to use them. . The program teaches you in detail marker words, luring, adding a verbal cue, fading lure, fading the frequency of rewards, duration. Quality detailed proofing information for these behaviors is provided, before a trigger is introduced. I am moving at a snail’s pace, yet enjoying the journey. I finally see true understanding, and how much more time, understanding and proofing we need to get where we are going. I see a dog doing things I do not even have to ask for because he enjoys them, because I reward them, because we have a partnership, because we log the reps. The program details what reactivity is and how it affects the dog, things you may be doing that are counterproductive, choosing the proper tool, why, when and how to introduce. The program details rituals in your daily life that amp your dog up and how to flip those rituals or create new ones to calm a dog down, decompression is covered in detail, nosework is covered in detail. How to build new rituals so the dog is calm out of the door or in the car or in a new place and eventually you can literally build rituals that cue a state of mind in the dog. In detail it is taught how you put all the work together and introduce triggers. You do it correctly that trigger becomes a predictor for a behavior, meaning it is something you do not have to cue, the dog knows what to do. Also covered is management of your dog. It is to me an excellent course.

What I have noticed more than anything up to this point is my dog is eager to please, the more he understands, the more I work proofing at our pace the more obedient and engaged he is. It is like he is more comfortable....I haven’t worked through the program far enough to expose him to triggers, I am confident that we will be fine when we are ready. I have seen people who are experienced handlers be successful, based on that and the changes I am seeing is where my confidence comes from, and my gut feeling a bit. That is the short of it.


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## dogfaeries (Feb 22, 2010)

I’m in the same area as the OP (south OKC metro). I have a few ideas. There’s a group of GSD people that get together a lot and train. I’ll see if I can get a number, if you’d like to talk to them.


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

Well a friend of a friend who's really experienced with GSDs is interested in adopting him. I explained the situation and he is willing to work with him. This whole situation really upsets me, but I think giving him to someone who's experienced is what's best for him. Like many said before though, I don't know what I'm doing, and even if I did get a professional, people I know personally think he's not a good fit for me. The breeders went cold turkey on me so returning him to them isn't really an option. Really as first time owner I should not have adopted an older dog. Especially a GSD. I think that was my first mistake. Anyway, thanks again for all the tips.


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

And sorry I deleted my previous comments because I probably won't keep him, but yes I'm in the OKC area. I probably won't adopt again for awhile after all this but if you have suggestions for future reference I'd be glad to hear.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

There is no shame in finding a more suitable home for him. I"m sorry the breeder failed him and failed you. Why don't you find some clubs (AKC or IPO) and start making contacts. YOu'll find the right dog when you are ready.


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

Yes. He really is a great dog which is why I was raving about him in the beginning and I still do. I think he'll do great in the right hands.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

dog aggression is hard to handle, especially when you want to do activities like agility. You'll find one that is right for you.


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## Boomer Sooner (Dec 17, 2018)

*OKC GSD Training*

I'm in the OKC metro as well. I would get ahold of K9 University, out on NW Expressway, as soon as possible. They have a good reputation working with GSD owners.


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## Marlykat (Nov 25, 2018)

Just an update on Charlie. I decided not to give him up. I had him evaluated by a bahaviorist and have really been working with him. I'm off work for the next week and a half which is good so I can spend more time on training.

He's been doing a lot better. He used to get riled up if he even just saw a dog, didn't matter how far away it was. Now as long as he's under threshold, he can see the dog and still obey commands which is a huge improvement. He also no longer barks/lunges at kids.

Despite my earlier frustrations we have a good bond. I still haven't even had him for a month, so I would like to continue working with him. I see a lot of potential. Also just to clarify, yes we now have professional help.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

So happy you got help.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

I’m so glad you are getting the help you need and it’s all working out for you and Charlie!


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Just to clarify about prong collars, yes they can be used to increase drive or aggression. This is a technique that when used at the proper time with the right dog works well is some scenarios. A prong can also be used to extinguish a behavior like pulling or aggression. Used correctly with a knowledgeable handler the collar can both. A good correction with a prong collar on a 10 month old dog should stop the dog aggression immediately. It should also stop the pulling and lunging when trying to walk a dog. If the dog does not have any aggression issues towards the handler the prong is a good choice to straighten this dog out.


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