# Recall issue: Blazingfast, but doesn't LOOK



## Brightelf (Sep 5, 2001)

Well, I have no training help. I live in an isolated area, and am working with Grimm alone. I've trained the recall this way: 
1.As a teeny puppy, I used food reward. 
2.As a very young dog, I moved on to tuggy toy tossed to him reward when I called "Come!" in calm situations.
3.Then as a young dog, the reward became a soft tuggy game, super-short, when called to come during interesting-sniffing-situations.
4. Finally, during the past month or so, I call "Come!" _when he is racing full-out away from me_ towards a stick he sees in the field, or a big rock on the slope that he wants to dig at, etc... as he is in full charge, I call "Come!"-- and now the reward is a brief but fun, vigorous tuggy game, with my full involvement and happy voice sounds of encouragement.

What's happened: I now have a BLAZING fast recall on him, when we are outdoors. I have seen in the past few weeks, him occasionally crash through dense underbrush if I called and he didn't even try to find a clear way around the brush!

Today's Horror: Grimm was on the opposite slope of the valley. A somewhat deep ravine is in the middle. I saw people suddenly coming with a dog offlead down the ravine, and I called Grimm "Come!" He ROCKETED down the opposite slope, and BURST through the brush that lined the ravine-- forgetting about the ravine's 6 ft drop completely! Grimm had launched accidentally by blasting through the bushes without looking in front of him! He was launched airborne..... and tumbled down the ravine's slope. He Limped a few steps, but still continued to run straight towards me like his butt was aflame.

I was horrified. How do we teach them to look where they are going?


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

What you need to teach is drop - then drop on recall. Then you need to remember to think when you recall your dog (thinking beyond "Oh crap!) ... So that you can, when it is called for, get a long distance drop & stay or when you see that ravine & recognize that you just gave a stupid command (such as recalling across a street and crap here comes a car) you can demand a drop. 

It's the human component that usually malfunctions and needs some training on looking, evaluating and thinking. .. At leasat that's how I evaluate most of my situations.


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## Brightelf (Sep 5, 2001)

I thought he would slow down, at least, because he would *remember* the ravine he had climbed up to get on the slope to begin with. What I didn't see coming is that he SHOT through the bushes withOUT looking at all!







Gaahh! 

Distance drops are not a bad idea in general, though.


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## GunnerJones (Jul 30, 2005)

I trained mine to platz anywhere anytime, I taught Erika links and recks as well


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

> Originally Posted By: Brightelf I thought he would slow down, at least, because he would *remember* the ravine he had climbed up to get on the slope to begin with. ....


Which is my point ... more human error than dog error. Dog has been trained to shoot back to you ignoring all distractions... It could have been much worse. Only way to assure against this is to teach a drop. When you teach the "come He** or high water" commands (recall or platz either one) you are training the dog to trust your judgement. We were "attack" by a small mop terrier once. My dogs were on lead. Barker the Younger picked up the attacking menace and began shaking it... I tried "No" a few times until I remembered "Leave it!" "Leave it!" was instantly effective, "No!" was worthless. Human error, not the dogs. (Double human error because terrier's human had him loose in her front yard and she was in a houserobe and slippers ... )

We are training the dogs to abandon their judgement and trust ours.


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## extremegiants (Mar 16, 2008)

I tried to search, but didn't come up with anything.

What is the best way to teach the down recall? 
Sasha is reliable on the recall, but I would really like to add the down to it so I can avoid any mishaps.


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## GSD07 (Feb 23, 2007)

> Originally Posted By: middleofnowhere
> I tried "No" a few times until I remembered "Leave it!" "Leave it!" was instantly effective, "No!" was worthless.


 Happens to me too. When Yana barks and I say 'no' (my first reaction when on public) she ignores it but when I say 'no speak!' she's stops barking immediately. I just need to remember myself. 

How to teach drop on recall and drop on the distance? I tried but I haven't succeeded and I do see what an importrant command this is.


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## DancingCavy (Feb 19, 2001)

I've been reading a book by Brenda Aloff which sort of addresses this issue. There's a game in the book that involves teaching your dog to switch instantly from hindbrain (reactive) to frontbrain (thinking) using a 'sit' or a 'down.' You start off at a walk with your dog next to you and then stop and say 'down' (or whichever command you want to use). If they do it, reward them. You slowly work it up to a run where your dog is 'chasing' you and you stop and say 'down' and they instantly drop. As your dog gets better at it, you can work it even further to involve prey items, toys, etc. Umm. . .hopefully that makes sense. If not, I can clarify it. I've started doing it with Risa and she's already up to running next to me and then dropping into a down when asked. She really enjoys this game.


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## extremegiants (Mar 16, 2008)

What's the name of the book? Is it a training based book, or did it just mention the down game?

Thanks!


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## DancingCavy (Feb 19, 2001)

The book is <u>Get Connected with Your Dog</u> by Brenda Aloff. It comes with a DVD too (though I haven't watched it yet).


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## Brightelf (Sep 5, 2001)

This sounds interesting, Jamie! Is the book an easy read? Grimm downs, but not speedily.


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## DancingCavy (Feb 19, 2001)

It's a pretty easy read. It gets a bit scientific in the beginning but it's explained in layman's terms. There are also pictures to explain a lot of it. I like it since some of the activities are ones Risa and I did in our obedience class. A lot of the exercises are good for dogs that are reactive too. Helps teach them to THINK more than just act.


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## BowWowMeow (May 7, 2007)

Yikes, just looked it up. Sounds good but it's really expensive!


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## DancingCavy (Feb 19, 2001)

Ruth, it's only $33 through Amazon. $36 through Dogwise. Yes, it is a bit pricey but it also comes with a DVD. So it's not _just_ the book.

It's more than I usually spend on a dog training book as well. But a friend of mine recommended it highly so I couldn't pass.


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

Let's take M-E's explanation a bit further - as you progress you get so you don't have to stop before or as you ask for the down - you get so you keep moving and the dog downs. 

It helps to have an enthusiastic down - which I build using what you'd call clicker theory - to start with.


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## dogmama (Nov 17, 2006)

I teach the drop on recall from a semi-heeling position at first. I stop & say "Platz." Praise & give the release command & keep walking. Make it a game. If you give a treat with praise, be sure to keep the treat low - between the front legs. You want the dog to focus on the "down" not on the treat that is 3 feet above his head.

When you get a fast down, start slowing your steps, giving the Platz command & walk ahead a step or two. If you need to give an additional "stay" command, that's fine. Turn, face the dog and (important) walk back to the dog (do NOT call the dog from here.) We want the dog to think "Platz means down until she comes back." Work up to several steps ahead of the dog.

At this point, I also start saying Platz at random times around the house. They need to know that Platz means "right now."

Now, the acid test. As you run backwards, call the dog and give the Platz command. You keep running backwards after the command. Eventually build distance between you & the dog - i.e., start with the dog several feet in front of you. Vary the number of steps you take (important) otherwise the dog learns "five steps, platz."

For obedience, I need a fast drop. I will put a dowel between the dog & myself & have the dog drop in front of the dowel. It gets moved frequently so that the dog takes a couple of steps - platz, to a couple dozen steps - platz. As I get success, I reduce the size of the dowel & eventually take it away.

If you work consistently, this doesn't take as long as it might seem. I want Platz to be a fun game. The most important part is to NOT CALL THE DOG TO YOU until you get a good reliable Platz. Always walk back to the dog. We don't want to imprint that Platz means "10 seconds down then run towards her" since your recall is a joyeous time for your dog. You shouldn't have a problem incorporating the recall from the platz.


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## extremegiants (Mar 16, 2008)

That's what I was looking for, thanks.


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## Parsifal (Feb 1, 2006)

Just wanted to say that I taught Annie the "drop" command (fall down flat on your belly INSTANTLY) with a very visible hand signal (arm straight above my head, hand in a fist) so that even if she can't hear me she can see the signal. Works very well, and we practice it every time we walk. There are some surfaces she hates to drop on (mud) but it's one of those non-negotiable safety behaviours. 

I trained her pretty much the way you trained "platz". 

It's a very good training to do --I think it makes Annie watch me more when we're out together. 

I'm in total empathy with the human error stuff -- I can't tell you how many times I did some unintentional training, or trained for behaviours I hadn't quite thought through or that had a totally different translation in the doggy mind.


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