# how to make dog not walk too fast



## ryt (Sep 18, 2008)

My GSD pups are 13 weeks and already when they're excited they pull me when i walk them on the leash, I can only imagine them at full size with my small wife if they're not properly trained. 

How should I train them to walk calmly? 

Also, what does 'heal' command mean I hear people talking about that here. and also what other useful commands could you recomend to teach them besides what I know, because they're in good training age atm
sit, stay, drop it, stop it, come, let's go, lie down. anything else?


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## KCandMace (Apr 8, 2008)

It depends on what you want in the end I think.
Heel could just mean to walk at your side with a loose leash or it could mean perfectly walking at your side for competition. 
If they pull stop walking until they stop. then continue walking. It would be in the end a very LONG walk as you will probably have to stop often. but they should catch on that pulling will stop the fun.


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## tracyc (Feb 23, 2005)

Leash pulling is a very common issue with most puppies. And you are 100% correct that now is the time to get it under control, or they will be out of control in a few months. 

When the pups pull, you should STOP. Dead in your tracks. They should get the signal that if they pull, they aren't going anywhere. When they look back to see what's going on, or give some slack in the lead, then you can move forward. But forward progress only happens when there is slack in the lead. When it goes taut, you STOP. 

The other alternative (I use both of these methods) is to do "crazy walking." 

When the pup gets to the end of the lead, you turn and walk the other direction. It'll catch them off guard, and they'll then run up to you and probably pull forward again in the new direction...so you turn and head left...then right...then turn around and go back the direction you started in. 

You won't get far on a crazy walk. And you're probably better off doing it in a field than on a sidewalk. But after a few crazy unpredictable turns, the pup will eventually give up and think "I better watch this guy--he's unpredictable! No telling what direction he's going to turn next!" 

As for the other commands--it's never too early to start basic obedience training. Find a good puppy kindergarden class that has a trainer that can show you how to teach some basic skills...and it'll also be a good socializing opportunity for the pups. 

IMO, the most important "command" you can teach is COME. Practice that one with lots of treats and praise every time the puppy comes to you. And never call a pup to you and then scold him. 

("Heel" is a command that means get into position on my left side with your shoulders even with my hip, and stay in that position, no matter where I move to. Heel is a position for the dog to get into. Walking at heel means that the dog stays even with you, on your left side when walking. )


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

ryt, I am not sure where you are located, but you are in need of a good puppy class, or rather two separate good puppy classes, one each for each of your puppies. 

I am saying this because first of all I think all puppies can benefit from a well run puppy class with a good trainer; second because you have two; and thirdly because you are really very new at this and you can learn a great deal and improve the next thirteen years immensely for you and these pups. 

A puppy class will start you on the right track, using positive reinforcement to get the puppies to want to work with you. At the end your puppy should be able to sit, and down, come and stay, and walk reasonably well on a lead. The puppy also is socialized to different people, a different place, and other puppies. 

After the puppy classes (usually six or eight classes, one class per week) are finished, you should sign right up for basic obedience. 

They weren't kidding when they said two is more than double the work. I like doing two at a time. Three is murderous though. But your puppies should go out with you, each alone. Socialization and training should be done individually, and if you want added time doing the two of them. 

You are running out of the critical socialization period between three and sixteen weeks, when the pups are imprinted by their experiences. This does not mean that all is lost, it just means you will have to work harder after this period. You have a job a head of you. Good luck.


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## Liesje (Mar 4, 2007)

At the shelter I did Tracy's "crazy walk" method with young dogs. When I would lose them, I just abruptly turned. When they realized and came back, I praised and gave them a treat from my pocket when they came to my side. Eventually they catch on and you can do five steps - treat, then ten steps - treat, etc. I usually did the Crazy Walk in a dog run or fenced area, either off leash or on a long leash. It's more about training the dog to WANT to stay with you than physically forcing the dog to stay with you.


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## riggins_mojo (Jun 16, 2006)

> Originally Posted By: Luca_stlYou won't get far on a crazy walk. And you're probably better off doing it in a field than on a sidewalk. But after a few crazy unpredictable turns, the pup will eventually give up and think "I better watch this guy--he's unpredictable! No telling what direction he's going to turn next!"


This really really works! I swear!


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