# does he know i'm alpha?



## truwrxtacy (Oct 29, 2009)

Hey guys so i just adopted a 2.5 yrs old white german shepherd a little less than a week ago, he knows how to sit, shake, and lay down. The problem is that i somtimes have to say the command like 8 times before he listens, but if i have food in my hands than he will listen on the 1st command.

The things i have tried to do to make him listen include 
- Making him sit before we enter/leave any room or the house
- I walk out of any room first and he follows
- Before i feed him i make him sit, shake my hand, and lay down

I'm not sure what else i can do to let him know i'm alpha. He also pulls on the leash when we walk, I walk him twice a day, after awhile he will stop pulling because he gets tired.

any advice would be great
thanks


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## Emoore (Oct 9, 2002)

Never give a command more than once. If he doesn't comply, guide him into the sit, or down, or whatever.


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## sagelfn (Aug 13, 2009)

Sounds like you're doing a bit of NILF (nothing in life is free) already which is a good way to establish yourself as the leader

I would suggest getting into an OB class, even if he knows the commands it will give you a chance to bond and further establish you as the leader. He's only been with you for a week, it'll take some time.


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## truwrxtacy (Oct 29, 2009)

thanks guys, any advice on the leash pulling? people tell me to get a choke collar or a e-collar but i'm hesitant. Right now when he pulls, i just stop walking until he sits than we walk, but as soon as he pulls again i stop. But he almost chokes himself when i stop, and our walks take FOREVER because i have to keep stopping. How long did it take you guys to train your dogs?

I also give him treats to train him, so i will have a couple of treats in my hand. I'll tell him to sit and if he does i'll give him the treat. My GF dosent think this is a good idea because she thinks that he will only obey me if i have treats in my hands, which kind of makes sense. What should i do?


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## sagelfn (Aug 13, 2009)

I would not use a choke chain. I would try the sensations harness or the easy walk harness or a prong

I probably will take a while to get him to walk nicely. He's been pulling for 2.5yrs. A good thing to do would be start the walk and give him some time to sniff and settle a bit (if he will) and then start walking.

Stick with treats,toys..whatever motivates him  Once he learns and will do commands then you can phase out treats but right now its important for him to learn whats expected.


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## truwrxtacy (Oct 29, 2009)

thanks for the info, i was just reading another thread and i think i'm going to try the clicker training as well. 

what do you guys use as training treats for your dogs? do you use big treats to crush them into smaller treats? i cant seem to find any "training treats" any my local pet store. But he sure does like doggie cookies


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## Emoore (Oct 9, 2002)

Little slices of hot dog.


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## sagelfn (Aug 13, 2009)

cut up hot dogs, cut up cheese, diced chicken


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## Good_Karma (Jun 28, 2009)

Loose leash walking takes a looooong time to train for some dogs. Niko figured it out within about three or four months but it took a LOT of treats (mine are homemade, Google it for recipes and save $$$). Now he's about 80% loose leash, but he forgets now and then if he sees an animal or something worth sniffing. I have never used anything but a flat collar on him.

Miss Rosa, however, has made nearly zero progress over the past year using this method. If she weren't such a "soft" dog, I might consider something other than a flat collar for her. But she shuts down so easily, we are just going to keep with our method (stop when she pulls, start when she sits). 

I'd suggest you follow the above advice and look at some of the other devices out there. Many, many people use a prong. That's not one I'd choose for my dogs but only because Niko's already almost got it, and Rosa couldn't handle it.

If it takes a treat to get him to do a command, it's better to use a treat than to repeat the command (he learns to ignore you). Like a trainer told us, "Would you work for free?"

You can ease off the alpha thing too, if you use NILIF. And it seems kinda strict to make your dog sit to enter/exit rooms IN your house. We used to try to leave the house ahead of the dogs, but gosh that's inconvenient! Now all they have to do is sit, and wait for our release word, and they may exit. I feel without a doubt that both dogs understand that my husband and I are firmly in charge.

You sound like you are off on the right foot though!!! Patience, your dog is still adjusting. Give it a couple more weeks, keep things mellow, strengthen the bond. And classes ARE a great idea. Plus it's fun to meet other dog people!


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

i think the alpha stuff is over rated.

give your dog a command. don't repeat
it. make your dog do whatever it is with one command.

train, train, train and socialize, socialize and socialize.

i think through training, socializing and feeding you create
a mutual bond.

when i'm letting my dog out he goes to the front
door and waits. i open the door and he waits for a command before
exiting. coming into the house my dog waits at
the bottom of the steps untill i open the door and give him a command
before he comes up the steps.

at feeding time i find it's much simpler
to feed my dog first. if my dog hovers around my
plate i say "back up" or "go to your bed".

i'm just saying all of this because i've never
given much thought about the alpha stuff.

train, socialize and spend time with your dog.

enjoy the new dog.


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

find a trainer.

teach your dog to heel (both sides) on
or off the leash. teach your dog
to hold it's position with distractions.




truwrxtacy said:


> thanks guys, any advice on the leash pulling? people tell me to get a choke collar or a e-collar but i'm hesitant. Right now when he pulls, i just stop walking until he sits than we walk, but as soon as he pulls again i stop. But he almost chokes himself when i stop, and our walks take FOREVER because i have to keep stopping. How long did it take you guys to train your dogs?
> 
> I also give him treats to train him, so i will have a couple of treats in my hand. I'll tell him to sit and if he does i'll give him the treat. My GF dosent think this is a good idea because she thinks that he will only obey me if i have treats in my hands, which kind of makes sense. What should i do?


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## Stosh (Jun 26, 2010)

Lots of good advice- definitely take a class. I use a prong collar and have since they were 6 or 7 mos old. I still use it when we walk in public or for some training like 'leave it'. It works instantly and is not the strain on the neck or throat that a choke is. You'll need to have it fitted properly and get some training on how to use it, but it will work wonders. That's about the same age I started with the clicker too, they were getting a little bored and they responded really well to it. I agree that there's no real technique on establishing yourself as the alpha and right now things you try might be off-putting and possibly intimidating to the dog. Give him time to settle in. Sounds like you're off to a good start!


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## Lilie (Feb 3, 2010)

I have my dogs sit and wait for release when going out side. I didn't want them to rush out every time the door opens. However, coming into the house I allow them to go in first. Mostly because it is easier for me to do so. 

Remember to use a lot of praise words when offering a reward too!


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## Valkyrierider (Jul 21, 2010)

Our trainers use the Gentle Leader head collar. It has made a big difference. It comes with a DVD on how to properly fit and use it. Still we have a little pressure on the leash but it is improving daily. Training is your best friend. Start now, be consistent and don't give up. I'm fairly new to this forum, but I can tell you most of these people know what they're talking about. Everyone has their own take on things, most are spot on.


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

Here are some tips for teaching loose leash walking: Leash Walking | Ahimsa Dog Training, Seattle | Dog and Puppy Tips from Seattle |

I especially like the the Silky Leash technique:

Silky Leash Video – How to Train Leash Walking | Ahimsa Dog Training, Seattle | Dog and Puppy Tips from Seattle |

I found that just stopping and waiting for a slack leash (the "be a tree") method was not nearly as effective as backing up each time - basically penalty yards for forging ahead. That, along with marking and rewarding the correct position at my side, and teaching the dog to yield to leash pressure (effectively releasing that pressure, rather than pulling into it), as in "silky leash" worked much better and faster for me. I also do lots of right and left turns, even circles. Another thing you can try is to take one step and stop, having him sit each time. One more step, stop and sit, one more step, stop and sit. Lure with a treat at first if necessary. Over and over again, so he learns that there's no point in pulling ahead because you're only going to take one step at a time. From there you can work up to 2 or 3 steps then a stop and sit. Eventually you should end up with an automatic sit at your side each time you stop walking.

I usually walk Halo with a my arm hanging straight down, with the loop around my wrist and holding the leash with a foot or two of slack. If she starts to pull ahead I drop the rest of the leash, (leaving the loop around my wrist), and as soon as she feels that sudden slack as the leash drops she immediately turns around and starts walking back towards me without any other cue, well before she hits the end of the leash. This did take a lot of time and practice, and at first it took us forever to get anywhere, but with patience and persistence she now walks better on leash than any other dog I've ever had, and we get compliments about it all the time. 

Once she was walking nicely most of the time, I'd just praise her rather than constantly marking and rewarding, but for a long time after that I would click and treat each time she looked at me, to reinforce attention. I don't require that she remain in perfect heel position for a 3-4 mile walk or that she look at me constantly, as long as she doesn't pull and I get occasional eye contact.

Since you'll be using lots of treats they should be very small and soft, so they're quickly and easily swallowed. All you want is just a taste. Jerky treats are good, cut up into little pieces, about a 1/4" or so. Natural Balance has some great food in a roll, like a big sausage, that can be cut up in advance and stored in the fridge. Tiny cheese or hot dog cubes work well too, but are messier.


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

Here is a great article about being the leader:

Leadership versus Dominance | Dog Star Daily


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

It's not about being 'alpha' it's about your dog really understanding training. I'm my dog's leader cause they want to listen/learn/obey not because they HAVE to.

I agree dog classes are a huge help.

I teach pretty much all stuff with treats/clicker initially....but it's the next step that always gets messed up. Cause you don't go from treats 100% to treats never for a command.

Instead you start up random reinforcement but only AFTER your dogs really knows and understands. 

You can then start mixing in the praise and toys with the treats. 

How to Mark Random Reinforcement in Basic Dog Training: How to Train Your Dog | eHow.com

http://www.wholisticdogtraining.com/files/positive-method.pdf


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## AgileGSD (Jan 17, 2006)

The "dominance theory" is a pretty outdated idea about dog behavior, which is based on even more outdated ideas about wolf behavior. People would probably enjoy their dogs much more if they stopped obsessing over if their dog is attempting to be "alpha" or if they are "alpha" enough over their dog. There is absolutely no proof that anything is accomplished by owners going through doorways first, eating first, not allowing dogs to jump up, not playing tug, etc. Some of these things, which are now referred to as "leadership exercises" can be useful when training but not at all because it creates "makes the owner alpha".

For example, if you have your dog sit and wait before you open the door, it isn't sending your dog the message that you are "alpha" because alpha dogs open doors. It is, however useful for teaching your dog to be polite and not dart through open doors by giving the dog a clear, consistent idea of what you expect from him. Dogs darting through doors is not a sign of "dominance" though, it is just a sign of an excited dog who hasn't been taught any differently. Having your dog sit before he gets his meals or anything of value doesn't prove to your dog that you are "alpha" because alpha dogs require their underlings to sit when they want something. Used consistently though, it does build a really nice default behavior - sitting works better than jumping/grabbing/barking/pushing to get what you want. Jumping/grabbing/barking/pushing are not signs of "dominance" either, just normal behaviors that all dogs do when they want something and haven't been taught any different. 

The reason that NILIF or similar programs work is not because it is making the human more "alpha". They work because the biggest issue people have with training their dogs is with presenting a clear picture of what they want, being consistent with what they expect and preventing dogs from self rewarding for undesirable behavior. Following NILIF means that your dog will have a better idea of what works to earn him what he wants. It means you will be more consistent with rewarding behaviors that you want. It also restricts the dog from practicing behavior that you don't want but that he may find very self rewarding (such as destructive behavior or door dashing or chasing cats or other things that dogs enjoy but people don't).


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

Watch this training with a 3 month old puppy, all clicker/treat trained. No 'I AM ALPHA' that I can see...





 
And I know she fades the treats cause when you see her dogs at year 





 




 
It's much more important to play, exercise, socialize and be your dogs calm leader they know they can rely on for guidance and support (and FUN!)


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## Ucdcrush (Mar 22, 2004)

I have been reading "The Dog Listener" lately, and the author suggests, for one thing, ignoring the dog (no talk no touch no eye contact as Cesar says) when you arrive home, for 5 minutes or until they've gone and laid down somewhere. Then call them to you and praise them.

They seem to really want to come, since by then they are really craving interaction with you the leader. According to the author it is similar to what alpha dogs do, they go into the territory, control the space, and give attention when they want to, not when a subordinate member requests it.

I for one don't think dog owners should write "alpha dog" theory off completely, just because of some criticism about how dogs are not wolves etc. Maybe it's the "alpha dog" label people disagree with, but as the owner of a strong independent breed, the owner has to be seen as the one who runs the show, and controls the activities of the subordinates.

For pulling, Don Sullivan (you may have seen his informercials) has a method that he claims stops pulling in 5-10 minutes, which is, when the dog pulls, strong 2 handed correction then walk the other direction. Keep that up and the dog will associate pulling with a punishment. It's simple and I have seen it work. It is not for teaching heeling (walking at the side), just NOT pulling. 

If you want to train without corrections, you can try the clicker and lots of high value treats, and give yourself plenty of time. But if you are calm and measured in your corrections, they are IMO not harmful-- they are part of the way a dog learns, so why not use them to prevent unwanted behaviors. That is their purpose in the dog's world.


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## Ucdcrush (Mar 22, 2004)

PS, Don Sullivan's system uses a prong type of collar, but I have used his no pulling method with a choke chain with good (maybe not as fast) results.


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

Ucdcrush said:


> PS, Don Sullivan's system uses a prong type of collar, but I have used his no pulling method with a choke chain with good (maybe not as fast) results.


Just be careful with a regular choke collar and strong corrections. The prong/pinch has been proven to cause much less (no?) permanent damage to the dogs neck/trachea.........while the regular choke collar does.

Prong Collar Info

:apple:


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## AgileGSD (Jan 17, 2006)

Ucdcrush said:


> I have been reading "The Dog Listener" lately, and the author suggests, for one thing, ignoring the dog (no talk no touch no eye contact as Cesar says) when you arrive home, for 5 minutes or until they've gone and laid down somewhere. Then call them to you and praise them.
> 
> They seem to really want to come, since by then they are really craving interaction with you the leader. According to the author it is similar to what alpha dogs do, they go into the territory, control the space, and give attention when they want to, not when a subordinate member requests it.


 Again like so many other "alpha theory" protocols, this works just not for the reason being attached to it. Dogs are generally eager to greet their owners when their owners come in and this often leads to what humans view as "bad behavior" - jumping up, grabbing clothes and being generally out of control. This isn't because the dog is trying to be alpha though. It's because the dog is happy to greet their owner and most owners react in a way which reinforces and escalates the dog's excitement level. They talk in a high voice, they become excited, they pet and "rough up" the dog, etc as soon as they come in the door. This teaches the dog that owners coming home is a very big deal and a reason to get very excited. The dog is being rewarded and encouraged to be overexcited, so of course the behavior will continue.

If the owner instead walks in and totally ignores the dog and goes about their business, the dog's excitement level quickly goes down. If the owner then pays attention to the dog, the dog learns that they will get attention for being calm and the the owner coming home is not a reason for over excitement. Not because the owner ignoring the dog is "alpha" and the owner paying attention to the dog is not but because dogs do what works. If you want to change your dog's behavior, you need to make the behavior stop working for the dog. 

I'd like to see where exactly the dog listener is getting her facts about "alpha dogs". I have her book and it is an interesting read but in her world, everything totally revolves around the idea that every waking minute you must be demonstrating how "alpha" you are. To the point that she suggests that you pretend to eat before your dog eats, if you aren't hungry enough for a meal. Of course, if you follow her protocol your dog probably will be better behaved. Not because it will make you "alpha" or because your dog is "dominant" but because it will help you control your dog's resources (and thus, your dog's access to what is rewarding), be consistent with your training and clear in what the dog is supposed to be doing


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

I love Jan Fennell and the way she suggests we do the leadership role in the house. 

Traditionally, to be Alpha we had to come down like a ton of bricks on our dogs IMMEDIATELY if they didn't hop to any random command. Cause that meant they were challenging us for the role of KING OF THE WORLD! Got alot of terrified pups scared of their erratic and crazed heads of the household from that (don't get me even started on the Alpha roll).

Instead, Fennell recommends all the calm quiet LEADERSHIP behaviors we can do that dogs can watch and analyze and appears to be MUCH clearer to them and (frankly) easier for us. 

As in it's way easier for me to come home and ignore my dogs for the first 5 minutes to stop the screaming and jumping for joy I used to get. Alternate older training methods seemed to be full more of yelling and commands and corrections and anger. THough the end result may be EXACTLY the same (dogs no longer jump up on me) I would much prefer the calmer method (easier too) cause I don't have to PROVE I'm the boss by being louder and angrier. I can just manage the situation better so they behave better.


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## JeanKBBMMMAAN (May 11, 2005)

BrightStar German Shepherd Rescue, Rochester, NY

I don't worry about anything much the first month. I want to get to know the dog, I want them to get to know, and most importantly, trust, me. I do basic NILIF but that's about it. Time spent being patient in the beginning is really rewarded after. 

As for the greeting, I have a pack of dogs and they do the same with each other. The greeted just stands there and lets the sniffing commence!


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## BowWowMeow (May 7, 2007)

I have used a choke collar and a prong collar and done corrections and ended up with dogs who behaved on those collars but still couldn't walk nicely on a flat collar. If a dog is squealing in pain from a correction (which I hear all of the time with prongs especially) or choking themselves then the collar isn't very effective. With Rafi I used a front clip (Sense-ation) harness while training him not to pull. Now he wears a flat collar and walks very nicely on his leash unless there is a squirrel nearby and then I just have to verbally remind him to walk nicely. 

NILIF is great but I don't take anything to extremes. There is no question in my dogs' minds that I am the one to look to for decision-making but I did not pound this idea into them through yank and crank or other rough physical methods. I did it through daily, reward-based training that is part of their daily routine. I feed my dogs when it's time for them to eat (which is almost always before I eat), allow them to enter and exit rooms and doors in front of me (as long as they are moving politely and not knocking people or other animals over), allow them to walk in front of me on leash (as long as they're not pulling), etc., etc.


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## AgileGSD (Jan 17, 2006)

MaggieRoseLee said:


> As in it's way easier for me to come home and ignore my dogs for the first 5 minutes to stop the screaming and jumping for joy I used to get. Alternate older training methods seemed to be full more of yelling and commands and corrections and anger. THough the end result may be EXACTLY the same (dogs no longer jump up on me) I would much prefer the calmer method (easier too) cause I don't have to PROVE I'm the boss by being louder and angrier. I can just manage the situation better so they behave better.


 My point is that your dogs aren't screaming and jumping for joy because they don't see you as an "alpha" or a "leader" or "the boss" in the first place. You coming in and ignoring them is simply teaching them behavior that humans find more appropriate by not reinforcing their natural tendency to get overexcited when you come home. You could come home, get super excited with them, have lots of wild play and it still isn't going to cause them to think "well she plays with us right as soon as she comes home so we must be the alphas", it will just encourage a high excitement level when you come home. 

Like I said the Dog Listener is an interesting read but I have to  at all the "alpha" talk and talk about "what dominant dogs do". Again, I'm sure following her program works but not because it makes you "the alpha". It works because you are acting in a consistent way, reinforcing behaviors that humans find appropriate and limiting your dogs ability to self reward in behaviors that humans find inappropriate.


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

> Like I said the Dog Listener is an interesting read but I have to  at all the "alpha" talk and talk about "what dominant dogs do". Again, I'm sure following her program works but not because it makes you "the alpha". It works because you are acting in a consistent way, reinforcing behaviors that humans find appropriate and limiting your dogs ability to self reward in behaviors that humans find inappropriate.


Since Glory B ate my 'The Dog Listener' (yes, I wasn't paying attention) I'm having to look up the Amichien® Bonding cause though I remember it was based on how wolves treat each other, I didn't remember that was based on stressing the Alpha behavior.

And I guess I'm thinking of 'Alpha' in the more traditional methods like those including the Alpha roll and really showing you are the BOSS by being very strict and regimented in the home.

From Peaceful Paws | Jan Fennell



> *Jan Fennell*
> 
> *Who is Jan Fennell?*
> Renowned internationally as the "Dog Listener", Jan Fennell is the author of five books, including best sellers _The Dog Listener _and _The Practical Dog Listener_. In 2001, she also had a BBC television series in which she consulted with desperate dog owners on behavior problems that ranged from annoying to life threatening. Jan currently offers canine communication courses and lectures worldwide.
> ...


Improve Your Relationship with your Dog, Become your Dog's Best Friend with jan Fennell the Dog Listener and Amichien Bonding The way I understood it is that we HUMANS mis-read what we thought we saw in wolves years ago with the Alpha and the others in the pack. We missed all the little quiet signals and only saw the big stuff that we may have mis-read and mis-interpreted.


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## caseycraig (Jul 7, 2010)

*Prong/Pinch Collar*



truwrxtacy said:


> Hey guys so i just adopted a 2.5 yrs old white german shepherd a little less than a week ago, he knows how to sit, shake, and lay down. The problem is that i somtimes have to say the command like 8 times before he listens, but if i have food in my hands than he will listen on the 1st command.
> 
> The things i have tried to do to make him listen include
> - Making him sit before we enter/leave any room or the house
> ...


I've trained my puppy using the prong collar. And I'm a fanatic now!
Believe me, the dog respects me and loves me at the same time. With the collar, I have a happy puppy. Not one that's walking around with his tail between his legs and his ears pinned the whole time.

It's simple, if you're dog is doing something you would deem as an "unwanted behavior," you give him three short corrections on the prong collar. (snap snap snap) It doesn't hurt the dog, it's just a little uncomfortable to them. I've heard some people say that it almost simulates the dogs mother's teeth on their neck. 

Like I said before, I wouldn't change anything with this training method. I have a puppy who is my buddy, not afraid of me, or strangers for that matter. (And still insanely protective as a puppy.)

So if you want your dog to sit immediately - Tell him to sit, if he doesn't sit after the first time you tell him, correct him and guide his booty into a sit. After he sits, praise him and reinforce the command. Use whatever word you want to let him move from the sit. (mine is free) and then you can go crazy with him.

After time, you can start to set standards on how fast he sits, how long he sits, and whatever else you want.

Right now, when I place my 13 week old puppy into a sit. He knows that he's not going anywhere until I tell him to and he loves it. And then we're buddies and we play and have fun.

You can do this with clicker training, it's just the opposite and takes a little control away from you.

*Disclaimer* No I'm not crazy, and no this isn't dog abuse...


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

What every one else said. Did not read really closely but I did not notice something with treats. 

Training with treats is great, but you do not want to go around with increasingly desireable treats in your pocket for the rest of your life. 

So train with the treat, use the treat to get him in position, while you speak the command, and then praise him and give him the treat. Timing is important, within seconds of the desired behavior at first give him the treat. 

After the dog is getting the command perfectly every time, and you are treating every time, stop using the treat to get him in position, and only give the treat when you say the command and he does it, then treat, every time. Once he is doing this every time, start weaning him from the treat. You still want to give the dog the treat, but do it every other time, or every third time. Then do it for only straight sits, or quick sits, or whatever you are trying to train. 

Like humans, dogs tend to do better when they are treated some of the time instead of every time. Use lots of praise, and at some point, the dog will see you as the leader and do what you TELL him (not ask him) every single time with out treats. Praise him when he does do what you want. 

About telling vs asking. Too many women -- yep descriminating here, tend to curl up the end of their statements into a question. I think that dogs tend to look at this type of command as "would you please sit?" or "do you want to sit?" Telling does not need to be mean or harsh, but there is no question in it "Sit." and if my dogs do not do it, I add "NOW." in a much lower displeased voice while I look right at the dog. that usually works. Funny thing, they did hear the original command. Now I will beat up men, too many men demand instead of tell, they will tower over the dog and glower if they do not comply. I think this is rarely helpful. Use normal tones, and then add a correction tone. If the dog is softer, try to lighten both your normal tone and your correction tone. 

Mostly with any correction, even the NOW, you want to use it seldom. You do not want to sound like a broken record. You do not want to sound nagging. I had a dog at one point that would wait until I used my I-mean-business voice. Not good. You want to be able to speak to the dog in normal tones, with clear commands, and have the dog do them now. 

training classes will help. A good trainer can tell you what your body is doing when the dog is not responding how you want him to. It can be something like a dip in the shoulder, or looking back for the dog, instead of keeping your shoulder forward, to keep the dog at your side. You cannot see these things yourself. 

Good luck. 

And forget about the Alpha stuff, be a good leader, stand up straight, act like a person, and treat the dog like a dog. If you think there is any confusion, you might want to keep the dog off of furniture.


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## Mrs.K (Jul 14, 2009)

caseycraig said:


> I've trained my puppy using the prong collar. And I'm a fanatic now!
> Believe me, the dog respects me and loves me at the same time. With the collar, I have a happy puppy. Not one that's walking around with his tail between his legs and his ears pinned the whole time.
> 
> *It's simple, if you're dog is doing something you would deem as an "unwanted behavior," you give him three short corrections on the prong collar. (snap snap snap) It doesn't hurt the dog, it's just a little uncomfortable to them. I've heard some people say that it almost simulates the dogs mother's teeth on their neck.
> ...



Wow.... :help:


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## Whiteshepherds (Aug 21, 2010)

*>>Like I said before, I wouldn't change anything with this training method. I have a puppy who is my buddy, not afraid of me, or strangers for that matter. (And still insanely protective as a puppy.>>*

Can you explain what you mean by "insanely protective"?


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## Mrs.K (Jul 14, 2009)

Whiteshepherds said:


> *>>Like I said before, I wouldn't change anything with this training method. I have a puppy who is my buddy, not afraid of me, or strangers for that matter. (And still insanely protective as a puppy.>>*
> 
> Can you explain what you mean by "insanely protective"?


That is what I am wondering about too. By that time it was a 13 week old puppy...


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## JakodaCD OA (May 14, 2000)

I wouldn't be putting a prong collar on a 13 week old puppy who has the attention span of a gnat. 

At 13 weeks, I'd be working more on my relationship as in bonding, focus, the most important of commands 'recall' and socialization. At 13 weeks they can learn the basics, and frankly I let mine just be puppies. 

At 13 weeks, puppies are NOT 'insanely protective' or even "protective". They have no concept of it.
While you think this is working for you now, one day you may wake up and have a puppy in big time revolt. 

I also think the word ALPHA is highly overrated. If you start out with creating a great bond with a puppy, and make yourself the center of that puppies world, everything else falls into place


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## aubie (Dec 22, 2008)

JeanKBBMMMAAN said:


> I don't worry about anything much the first month. I want to get to know the dog, I want them to get to know, and most importantly, trust, me. I do basic NILIF but that's about it. Time spent being patient in the beginning is really rewarded after.


 
Exactly, you've only had the dog for a week or so? Spend some time bonding! I would rather have my dog want to do what I say because it wants to please me, instead of the Alpha crap. Spend some time with your dog, learn about it and in doing so you'll bond and the dog can learn your expectations.


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## Whiteshepherds (Aug 21, 2010)

truwrxtacy said:


> I'm not sure what else i can do to let him know i'm alpha. He also pulls on the leash when we walk, I walk him twice a day, after awhile he will stop pulling because he gets tired.any advice would be great
> thanks


He may not care that you're alpha, he may not even know what alpha is. That's the problem with dogs...they don't read the same articles and training manuals we do. 

There's lots of good advice about Loose Leash Walking in other posts so I won't add to the list. One more thought however.... 

Tire him out before the walk.
Dogs seem to have the most energy in the early morning. It's not the best time to train loose leash walking because they want to go, go, go! If you can, try walking him (while you're training) at other times or give him some exercise before you start the walk. (15 minutes of fetch etc.)
It's easier to teach a dog to walk nicely when they don't have a night or days worth of pent up energy.


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## Catu (Sep 6, 2007)

Whiteshepherds said:


> He may not care that you're alpha, he may not even know what alpha is. That's the problem with dogs...they don't read the same articles and training manuals we do.


:spittingcoffee:
Thanks!


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