# Leash reactivity and corrections with 9 week old puppy



## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

Great forum. I learned a lot just reading through a lot of the posts. 

I am strong proponent of combining both positive reinforcement and correction to train dogs. However, I am curious how does one apply corrections to young puppy prior to use of a prong collar which I understand should not be put on a dog prior to 4-6 months old. I have watched many videos with corrections on Prong collar which looks very effective. However what do I do until the pup is old enough?

I recently started putting a leash on the puppy and he fights it at times, will bite the leash or just roll on the ground. I have used treats to get him a little more interested and relaxed but would love to correct certain behavior at the time it happens. I have resorted to tugging not the leash (he is wearing a flat collar) but I don't believe it is doing much and I don't want to engage in a tug of war with the puppy - plus I worry about injury of his neck. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Kal


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## Factor (Oct 9, 2015)

A pup that is 9 weeks old is a veery young little pup and you should focus on making a good relationship with the pup doing engagement training, focus, lots of play, redirect behaviours you dont want. I think there is a bunch of threads about this. Wouldnt put a prong on a dog before its 6 months old, (if even that soon).

With the leash: you just put the leash on the pup an say "let´s go" and then you go.. take a toy with you for example and the pup will eventually forget tugging on the leash.
+ you can play tug (and should) with your pup carefully and let the pup win! It builds confidence in the pup, which is important.


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

a 9 week old puppy ? The pup is fighting the leash and collar just for the fact of that it is unfamiliar with the feeling of a collar , and not enjoying constraint . A 9 week old pup shouldn't be going out for big walks .

Do you guys - addressing all new puppy owners -- not have support of your breeders?

This should have been talked about before the pup was officially turned over to your care. 

I take the time to get my pups started with collar and spaghetti thin leash just and walk them even if it is only 20 paces . Positive association . Patience . Rewarding for being in the right position . 

Big walks - no way. Correction -- NO WAY. 

You couldn't have had the pup more than a week and maybe a bit . The pup doesn't know you , there is no trusting bond yet , the environment is still all new . 

when you have this "I recently started putting a leash on the puppy and he fights it at times, will bite the leash or just roll on the ground" slow down . In your yard have the dog on collar and leash . NO negative association and this does not mean bribing with food --- just having the experience of the equipment - neutral , no emotions or frustration on your part . Dog fights and rolls around trying to escape (avoid) and you calm as a cucumber sit down , you interact when dog comes to you . He is all happy , you get up , and you ask him to heel, come along with you (let's go!) and you take 2 or 3 steps - yeah . Praise with your voice and posture - positive energy feed back . A few more steps - STOP on a POSITIVE note.

Young pups of that age don't have the stamina for long walks . It is unpleasant if they are pushed. It is harmful to the immune system which is as of yet undeveloped and challenged on many fronts . 

Corrections at this point could send a dog into avoidance of the leash/collar/training and the association with you.


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

carmspack said:


> Young pups of that age don't have the stamina for long walks . It is unpleasant if they are pushed. It is harmful to the immune system which is as of yet undeveloped and challenged on many fronts .
> 
> Corrections at this point could send a dog into avoidance of the leash/collar/training and the association with you.


Thanks Carmen. Breeder told me to let puppy be a puppy until he is 4 months old in the meantime can do some work with a flirt pole to build up drive. The puppy is growing and getting faster and runs after anyone coming into the yard to play, so needed to at least be able to leash him and get some control - he is well behaved generally. I plan to formally start training the dog with alongside an experienced trainer at 4 months for Schutzhund/protection work (he is a working line GSD) over a 2 year period. 

As for for the long walks, I am actually just walking him in my yard. However, I am doing some corrections (tugs on leash and some light tapping not he hind leg) which I guess is too early - so I will stop that now. A lot of literature I read and videos refer to puppies but I am sensing there is a huge different is dealing with a 9 week old puppy vs a 6 month old puppy and that the literature is not always clear in differentiating between them. 
Kal


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

Factor said:


> With the leash: you just put the leash on the pup an say "let´s go" and then you go.. take a toy with you for example and the pup will eventually forget tugging on the leash.
> + you can play tug (and should) with your pup carefully and let the pup win! It builds confidence in the pup, which is important.


Noted 

What about digging up the yard? anyway I can curb that without corrections?


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

Whoa. The pup is 9 weeks old for pete's sake. I'd just let him pull the lead around the house or around the yard at this stage. Pick it up when you need to but generally, no. TO get him to quit digging, distract him with something else - a game of whooo hooo chase me!, a look what a great treat I have for you!, a great toy to play tug with. All sorts of stuff like that.

Pups should be hearing "good dog!" and "yes!" at this stage of the game. Very little "no." or "oops".


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

leash training in the yard --- collar on pup, leash on hook , associate leash with big-time fun -- so if the dog needs to go outside you leash the dog , walk him to a spot in the yard and then release him to zoom around , go to potty etc . Use a phrase "want to work?" and leash the dog before he goes out , take for a little tour around the garden . Take the dog to the car on leash , crate , and when he comes out again leash on and brief fun on lead , the pop into car and head home.
When I ask want to go work the dogs will head to the car and self load . One of my dogs would try to bring me the leash which was hanging on a hook of a vintage coat wrack , pulling the piece of furniture down. 

If you have the dog under control via leash at the beginning and then remove it you are chaining the leash as a way to gain freedom (reward) instead of giving the dog all the freedom, then catching and constraining him. Of course he is going to resist.
Keep things in balance . You can focus too much on the flirt-pole prey . Explore use of nose , recalls , pleasure in being willing in obedience . Be creative .


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

great tips. Thanks

I can see this is a going to be big learning curve for me with the dog. As I mentioned before I am getting professional guidance from a trainer but for the next 2 months I am on my own, so I appreciate all input I can get to start me off on the right foot and ensure I have positioned myself for success once I start proper training. 

Regards
Kal


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

A high-level training plan for puppy weeks 8-16 weeks would be great - when do I teach what?


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## Sabis mom (Mar 20, 2014)

I guess I'm weird. Prior to 1 year old all of my dogs are allowed to be dogs. 

I start letting them wear a collar when they first come home, leash is dependant on personality. We focus on manners, behavior and basics. We play in fenced areas with focus on following me, watching me. I have had pups that violently fought restriction or confinement. I don't fight back and I don't 'correct' pups. When they fight the leash, I keep pressure off and work on 'follow me'. Walking backwards, treats if needed, happy voice 'Puppy, puppy!' 
But.....my goal is companionship and cooperation, so what do I know.


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## LuvShepherds (May 27, 2012)

There was a recent post on what to teach a puppy which I can't find now that I want it. I have a puppy that will be 4 months old. We used the drag method. He destroyed several cheap leashes and now walks nicely on a leash. I taught him sit the first week. Whenever he does anything wrong, I make him sit and watch me. I also taught him Leave It and Place, down and a few other commands. This might help 

http://www.germanshepherds.com/foru...-early-training-young-working-line-puppy.html

http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/training-our-puppy-basic/163813-what-teach-8week-old-puppy.html

http://www.germanshepherds.com/foru...c/151981-13-week-old-gsd-what-teach-next.html

http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/training-our-puppy-basic/159107-top-five-teach-puppy-now.html


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## car2ner (Apr 9, 2014)

Patience. This pup is still a baby, with little understanding and a tiny little attention span, and very little self control. 

There has been plenty of good advice already posted in response to your question. Just be patient and keep calm. These first few months will have seemed to have flown by in hindsight. 

BTW, I have a 15 week old myself and a two year old. The pup walks next to me when it is just the two of us but wants to tug and catch up with my two year old when the family goes for a walk. I'll be doing pack walks with her in a harness for another month or two because I don't want her to hurt her neck. But I still try to keep her by my left side. 
We also have a drag string on a collar for when she is in the house and running around the yard. That way if we have to stop her from doing something foolish, we can get to her easier (NO, Phooey!. don't eat that mushroom...chew that chair...jump up on Grandma)


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

I followed the advice from the various members and found a marked improvement in leash behavior from food based rewards, praise and patient coaxing. He will typically walk on leash for half minute intervals and does not throw tantrums - bites the leash a little but I think he may be playing not fighting. I am not pushing it now. He will recall and sit for rewards too. 

The last challenge I need to deal with now is chasing people and jumping on them. I realize he is just playing and having fun, but even at this age it is a nuisance and want to try to control it somehow. Any ideas?


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

http://www.germanshepherds.com/foru...191183-top-training-expectations-puppies.html great fun and IMPORTANT things to teach on that link too..


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

MaggieRoseLee said:


> http://www.germanshepherds.com/foru...191183-top-training-expectations-puppies.html great fun and IMPORTANT things to teach on that link too..


Thanks. Very helpful. 

Still can't find something specific to jumping for 9-10 week old puppies.


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## LuvShepherds (May 27, 2012)

Teach him the Sit with voice and hand signal so it's perfect. Every time he chases, turn toward him before he reaches you and give the Sit signal and voice command. Make him sit. Give him no eye contact if he jumps until he is sitting. Look beyond him, not at him. Then keep your hand up and make him stay for a few seconds, then say OK. If he keeps jumping, turn your back on him and ignore. This is where a leash works, too. If you can catch him before his feet leave the ground and give a simple tug, he will not be able to jump up. Use a long trainng leash so one person can correct from a distance while he is jumping on someone else.

My puppy was jumping and grabbing my leg, then holding on. Every time, I showed no reaction, just made him sit. He's not jumping anymore. He does get excited over his food bowl and jumps up to get it, so I went back to feeding him in the crate. I tell him, Eat Crate and he races into the crate then sits until I put his food bowl down. Fortunately he hasn't tried to eat the crate, but he hasn't put the words together in the way we would. To him it means food in the crate.


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

LuvShepherds said:


> Teach him the Sit with voice and hand signal so it's perfect. Every time he chases, turn toward him before he reaches you and give the Sit signal and voice command. Make him sit. Give him no eye contact if he jumps until he is sitting. Look beyond him, not at him. Then keep your hand up and make him stay for a few seconds, then say OK. If he keeps jumping, turn your back on him and ignore. This is where a leash works, too. If you can catch him before his feet leave the ground and give a simple tug, he will not be able to jump up. Use a long trainng leash so one person can correct from a distance while he is jumping on someone else.
> 
> My puppy was jumping and grabbing my leg, then holding on. Every time, I showed no reaction, just made him sit. He's not jumping anymore. He does get excited over his food bowl and jumps up to get it, so I went back to feeding him in the crate. I tell him, Eat Crate and he races into the crate then sits until I put his food bowl down. Fortunately he hasn't tried to eat the crate, but he hasn't put the words together in the way we would. To him it means food in the crate.


Thanks a lot. That sounds like a good approach. The long leash appears to be something I have to work on. The jumping on me has subsided but chasing guests is really my biggest issue now.


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## Sunflowers (Feb 17, 2012)

Please, please slow down. 
You wouldn't train a human two-year-old at a high-level, please understand your puppy is way too young for anything like that.

Your puppy should not have access to guests, he should either be leashed or tethered to you.
At this age, corrections are worthless, you need to prevent the behavior before it occurs.


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## DutchKarin (Nov 23, 2013)

Also, training is an ongoing adventure. It is not like you teach sit and he never does it wrong again. For the first 2 years.... at least.... you will be working continuously. Just like with a kid. It is not like you say to your kid, "don't hit" and they never do it again. On going, calm, consistent, and joyous.

It backslides sometimes too, especially when they hit adolescence. Consider a dog training class. You can't get everything online. Training is technique, but also reading the individual dog and timing. The last two you get from real trainers out there who can watch you and the dog.

But also let him be a puppy too.


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## GSD3D (Dec 24, 2015)

I understand the need to let the puppy be a puppy. I plan on training classes at 16 weeks once the puppy properly immunized. For now, I am trying to avoid building bad habits. I have definitely moved away from corrections but want to find ways to ensure all his interactions are positive. I don't always have him tethered outside as I like to let him him run around the fenced yard and play under supervision but quite often kids, family members etc. walk in or out and he chases and jumps (we have quite a busy household). This either leads to people pushing him away or him nipping at their clothes. So my options are keep him tethered at all times or let him do as he pleases for the next 8 weeks. This is probably about the only area I need to fix with him now.


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## Sunflowers (Feb 17, 2012)

No, they are not. You didn't say it was outside that the chasing was going on. What do the guests do when he chases? I assume they run. Have them stop in their tracks, he can't chase what doesn't move.
Put the dog on a harness +Flexi outside. That way he explores, but you have partial control.

Your job right now is to bond with the dog. 

Work on recall, that is the most important thing you can teach him. Don't give him the opportunity to not come when called, put him on a very long lead and reel him in, then give him treats and lots of praise. 

Take him to places, and have him see everything, don't let dozens of strangers get their hands all over him, his job is to see and ignore people, not to interact with them.

Scheduled nap times in the crate, in my opinion, are a must.

At that age, we took Hans out on a Flexi leash in the yard. That type of leash is great for puppies, gives them the opportunity to explore. They don't like a regular leash, and it would be helpful to put that off for a while. Flexi is for close to the house, in your yard, in public he needs to go out on a real leash, but that would be best saved for later.

Enjoy your pup.


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## Sabis mom (Mar 20, 2014)

Here is how I approach jumping puppies. 

IMO puppies tend to jump because we are sooo far above them. When I approach pups, or young eager dogs, I crouch down and sort of mold them to a sit while petting. This way they get to be close to my face where they want to be and over time they learn that sitting means petting. DO NOT put your face too close to those needle sharp teeth though. Even owners that I meet on walks are amazed at the results this gets.

Of course, I'm no expert and can only comment on what I have observed.


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## LuvShepherds (May 27, 2012)

For his own protection, I would crate him or isolate him from that much commotion. I used indoor tether with our WGSL when she was a puppy. I tied a leash to my waist or to a table if I was within reaching distance so I could observe and correct. I had young children and their friends in and out constantly and I didn't want her to get stepped on or tripped over. She was only allowed to chase my own children and I taught them how to use bite inhibition techniques so she didn't hurt them. You also don't want a puppy tooth to be yanked out or broken from being pulled by clothing.

She's only little for a few months, keep her safe. I personally don't use a lot of crating with my new puppy, but I don't have little children either. My friend trains service dogs and they are crated a lot as puppies. It doesn't hurt them at all. It seem logical to let her have a lot of loose yard time, but it's not that good for her. She needs to sleep and she needs to know she is protected. It sounds like too much over excitement for a young puppy.


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