# FAST platz in motion



## nathalie1977 (Sep 4, 2006)

I have been wracking my brain trying to figure out how to get faster platzes out of motion for the BH.

Freyja downs completely but she doesn't do it FAST. I want her to hit the ground without blinking.

I've tried positive methods, like teasing/playing with the tug, calling her to fuss, then asking her to platz in drive. Maybe I'm not doing it right but it doesn't seem to work very well.

My club suggested patting her between the shoulderblades when I give the command. Someone else suggested using a stick.

What method(s) have worked for you to get speed? Thanks!


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## Amaruq (Aug 29, 2001)

Sometimes just doing basic puppy push-ups might work. Sit, down, stand and mix it up with rapid fire commands. Start off with random rewards for ANY fast command and then focus on AWESOME rewards for EVERY fast down, then back to mixing up the commands and rewarding various correct and FAST commands. Then add slowly add it to regular heeling etc.


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## Lauri & The Gang (Jun 28, 2001)

Does she do a fast down when you are NOT moving? If not - start there. Teach her to down FAST when just standing still.

This is what Claudia showed us.

You put the dog in a Down, by your side, then you step forward with one leg, immediately bring that leg back and reward (if the dog didn't move). Keep building this until you can briskly walk away from the dog while they are in a down without them moving.

Once you have a fast down with NO motion and a sold stay-in-a-down when you walk away, you can start combining the two.

Have the dog in the heel position, take a single step forward (with the dog heeling) then down and keep walking.


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## nathalie1977 (Sep 4, 2006)

She will stay just fine, but her platz is not really fast in heel position, though she can be fast if I do the puppy pushups. Something doesn't seem to be translating... maybe try the puppy pushups in heel position?


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## Amaruq (Aug 29, 2001)

> Originally Posted By: NatShe will stay just fine, but her platz is not really fast in heel position, though she can be fast if I do the puppy pushups. Something doesn't seem to be translating... maybe try the puppy pushups in heel position?


Yes, I would try the puppy push-ups in the heel position with AWESOME rewards for quick responses. My guys can be a little "slower" when I am unclear to them what is expected. Unfortunately, they can be slow frequently.







But at least now I know WHY and we can work through that too.


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## nathalie1977 (Sep 4, 2006)

For the reward, should I do an explosive release/play with the tug, or should I try going back to food? She's not super enthusiastic about treats (food rolls and such) but I might be able to get her interested in some chicken.

What I've tried most recently is this.

Play/tease, call her to fuss, platz. Reward if it's fast, if not just a verbal correction like "that's not it," release, tease, call to fuss, platz again. Only reward if it's fast.


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## Vandal (Dec 22, 2000)

Nat,
If you are going for the BH in a few weeks, I would not get too caught up working one exercise or you may end up with downs where you don't want them. It is just a BH, so, maybe think over what you are going to do and then work on it later. It is very easy to get caught up in one exercise you are not quite happy with when you have pre-trial nerves. Yes, the trial nerves start happening about a month out and this is where most people make all their big goofs and make something not so great into something really ugly or mess up the good stuff by working too hard on that one thing.

Seems you said she can be fast to down elsewhere which leads me to think she simply doesn't understand that she needs to be fast in motion as well. Maybe you progressed to quickly before she really understood it or maybe your cues and body language are totally different during the out of motion exercises vs what you do during "push ups". I always ask myself what "I" am doing that causes a problem, so, think about that part for a few minutes. I use a great deal of very subtle body language to cue my dog. Only the dog sees it but it is important you realize that what you are doing, the dog is watching. If you send mixed signals with your body language, you will get mixed results. Ask yourself what you are doing when she is fast.

I use anticipation to make speed. That's where you may ask your dog at first if they are ready and make your body more tense. When the dog is staring at you, say down sharply but not in a harsh tone. When I start the down in motion I give the command when my left foot hits the ground where I want the dog to down. It makes it easier for the dog, ( and also for you, especially in a trial ), when what you do is consistent, so think about that as well. IMO, they have to really know to go down fast before you add drive. If the dog has too much drive for the toy they get so focused on getting it they won't respond as quickly as you want. If you add drive before the dog really understands to down quickly, you may get a slow down as a result. 

How would you use a stick to teach the down?


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## nathalie1977 (Sep 4, 2006)

The suggestion was to tap the shoulder with a stick instead of my hand, to avoid body movement (so she doesn't learn to read my body). I don't have the coordination to do it though and I'm just not a big fan of tapping/etc. as a correction anyway.

No one ever told me about the left foot thing so I will definitely work on that after the BH... you're right though, at this point I can't really do much for the BH, she'll pass with the down the way it is. I might get a little faster but it's not gonna be perfect. And if I obsess over the platz, she won't sit out of motion. I'll just leave well enough alone for now and just work on patterning.

I guess I should start thinking of all the stuff I want to fix for the 1, and the platz is #1 on the list because I'm gonna need that for the send out as well.

What you said about the drive is pretty much where I think I've been having issues... most people have suggested that I get her to platz fast while in drive, but either I'm doing it wrong or it's just too much stimulation for her.

I'm definitely nervous and I need to really study for the written too. But I'm excited at the same time.


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## G-burg (Nov 10, 2002)

> Quote:Nat,
> If you are going for the BH in a few weeks, I would not get too caught up working one exercise or you may end up with downs where you don't want them. It is just a BH,


Exactly!

We often forget this..


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## dOg (Jan 23, 2006)

Believe me, I know it's hard not to be nervous and excited, but
neither will serve you well. Calm deliberate consistent persistence
is called for, try to relax, like it's just you two playing in the park.

Visualize success, like suggested here, it helps.
<span style="color: #3333FF">Great BH write-up</span>


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## dOg (Jan 23, 2006)

<span style="color: #3333FF">another nice write up</span> for the BH


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## LisaT (Feb 7, 2005)

Are you sure that there aren't joint or back issues that are slowing her down? From reading, and maybe I'm not getting the right impression, there seems to be some overall enthusiasm missing?

There are ways that you can practice downs in movement -- the down from a still position and the down while in movement actually are different. At a still position, the down starts from the back of the dog typically. In movement, it starts at the front of the dog because you want the dog to dive into the down. 

I can't explain it well, but we would lead the dog into the down (while moving) with a lunge from our leading foot (the foot furthest from the dog), typically with a hand signal directly in front of the dog and a verbal command. You have to be fast and mobile. Once the dog learns what the movement is supposed to be, then you don't have to work as hard. Enthusiasm comes from the speed of the movement, and then abruptly interrupting that with a lunge and guiding the dog into the down. You will be sore after you work on this, unless you typically practice lunges


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## nathalie1977 (Sep 4, 2006)

No, it has nothing to do with physical problems... she's intensely focused on me when she downs, and she really wants to please me. She just doesn't understand that she has to do it FAST to be correct. I haven't done a good job of teaching her that. It's not her being hard-headed, but rather not understanding the exercise itself.


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## LisaT (Feb 7, 2005)

okay, just checking.


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## nathalie1977 (Sep 4, 2006)

No prob. My dog is just handler impaired.


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## LisaT (Feb 7, 2005)

LOL, aren't we all? I think that's the most important thing to accept in any training (for the most part)!!!


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## JKlatsky (Apr 21, 2007)

I always found that I just needed to be faster with my rewards. Build a lot of drive for the reward and then as soon as elbows hit the ground I would reward. 

Another thing we did when initially teaching it, was to pivot in front of the dog, which arrests any forward movement. So you're heeling....you give the command and pivot on your left foot so you're in front of the dog...the dog cannot move forward and should be going down into the platz and as soon as you see the position achieved reward. Eventually our dogs were down before we finished the pivot. We did this with all our motions to get them to lock up faster, and then faded it out.


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