# New Puppy - What would you do different?



## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

Just killin' time here while I wait to see if Itzakat and my fate intersect. Lets say you've raised a GSD or two, and you're getting a new pup....what would you do different when raising this one?

I'll start....I am going to manage feeding differently. I have over fed in the past, thereby killing food drive, and having one less tool to work with.


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

I'm going to be watching this thread closely...I prefer to learn from other people's mistakes rather than my own.


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## Uniballer (Mar 12, 2002)

I would use the clicker more when he is tiny.


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## BadLieutenant (May 9, 2010)

crate train...never allowed on beds or furniture


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## KZoppa (Aug 14, 2010)

beat my husband every time he refuses to listen and use what he knows the dogs have been taught. I use one word commands. My husband tries commands they dont even know or he get frustrated way too quickly and only sets back on the training i do as a result. I am the primary in our dogs lives. I train, i feed, i handle everything. he does nothing.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

I would use the clicker/marker luring more too, and work on the focused heeling and positions.
I wasn't consistant in my pups first year(different venues, training advice or trainers) as far as methods so that would be something I would work on with the next one. Consistancy!

My "pup" is now a year and a half and other
than not being ready for his BH
(because of ME,not Michael Ellis) he is perfect.

My pup is/was very biddable and I never have had to correct him for much. He is so compliant it is hard to imagine the landsharks and problem pups I read so much about. Never destroyed a thing and has had free range of the home since he was about 14 months. Yet he has drive and confidence.
The bond is very strong even though he can romp with the other two.
As far as tracking, we should be farther along, but hard to find good places round here to track, the dog has it genetically though. 
So that would be more of a priority with a pup; 
get up earlier and find a place to track.
all of the above I can still do, it's not tooo late!


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## Jason L (Mar 20, 2009)

- I would teach heeling slightly differently and not let him jump up so much get his reward. 
- I would do a lot more foundational work for the retrieve and do lots and lots of play retrieve and muzzle holding.


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## SchHGSD (Dec 20, 2001)

I would spend more time bonding. Feed all meals from my hands either tracking or doing obedience. Spend LOTS of time with young puppy tracking and doing obedience for food like this- http://www.mecberger.com/Ilkka3kkB.wmv

Spend LESS time doing prey oriented work with the helpers as a young pup.

Since I have a 4 1/2 month old now, this is what I am doing. I reserve the right to change it all by next puppy, though.


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## Jason L (Mar 20, 2009)

SchHGSD said:


> Spend LESS time doing prey oriented work with the helpers as a young pup.


Interesting. I feel the same way too. I don't think the rag/tug/bite pillow work hurts or hinders the development of pups but I just don't see any real benefit to it. 

With my next pup ... if someone says you can't do any bitework with him until he is 14-15 months old, I would have zero problem with that.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

I agree, there was a 14 month old kennel raised pup that came out to the club, after her 3rd session she is biting hard and for real, with no previous anything(other than a bath by her new owner)


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

I'm actually pretty happy overall with many of the things I did with Halo. I tried to correct the mistakes I made with Keefer by doing more of the stuff I didn't do enough of with him, like working on leash skills, and keeping her in classes, and now private training. Consequently, she walks beautifully on leash, much better than any dog I've ever had. I did tons of clicker work with her when she was young, and also tons of self control stuff around food. 

What I didn't do as much of as I should have was to incorporate more play into training and I'm really just now learning how to use toys as rewards. I also should have done more self control work in highly arousing circumstances such as play when Keefer is around. She got away with a lot around him because he accepted it and was so patient, but I think I should have stepped in more often and imposed more control. They get along so great and have so much fun together that it never occurred to me that it might become a problem some day, especially since they aren't stuck together like glue around the house. But although separately each of them are mostly great, together they're a disaster, lol! 

Each dog is an individual, and as such, a learning experience. This one has taught me a LOT! :rofl:


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## Vandal (Dec 22, 2000)

> I don't think the rag/tug/bite pillow work hurts or hinders the development of pups but I just don't see any real benefit to it.


No, just screws up your training is all.


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## elisabeth_00117 (May 17, 2009)

I would most definitely work on FOCUS right from the start and be more consistent with my training techniques.

I would allow my dog to get excited over training rather than reward calm/boring behaviours like I did with Stark.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Gosh every puppy is so different, even full siblings can be night and day different. I think my next puppy, I will try to sit back and listen a whole lot more before deciding on what I want to do differently. Listen to his learning style, listen to his temperament, listen to what his strengths are, and what he likes to do.


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## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

onyx'girl said:


> I would use the clicker/marker luring more too, and work on the focused heeling and positions.


Totally agree, with the marker, focus and positions before I even worry about heeling.



Jason L said:


> I would do a lot more foundational work for the retrieve and do lots and lots of play retrieve and muzzle holding.


I think its now that I even understand where the foundation was lacking in my first two, and what I want to accomplish with the new pup....and I intend on using markers to build foundation in retrieves and muzzle holding pretty early.



Jason L said:


> Interesting. I feel the same way too. I don't think the rag/tug/bite pillow work hurts or hinders the development of pups but I just don't see any real benefit to it.
> 
> With my next pup ... if someone says you can't do any bitework with him until he is 14-15 months old, I would have zero problem with that.


100% agree...I saw someone else posted on avoiding the focus on prey drive based training, which is in that same line of thinking, in that you're allowing the dog to mature and tap into a balance of defense and prey.


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## Ruthie (Aug 25, 2009)

I am sure the list will continue to grow but here is what comes to mind immediately.

1. Use clicker! I resisted for several years because when I saw it used, it was done poorly. After trying it for about 4 months now, I am sold.
2. Work on drive containment
3. More consistency in general
4. More exercise
5. Better food
6. Less restriction on jumping (although Bison's was due to his ED)
7. I think I will need to be more cautious about doggy interaction at home. Moose was really laid back and didn't want to interact too much. I think Bison will be more interactive with the puppy and I will need to be careful that they don't spend TOO much time together.

And Wayne, this puppy waiting thing sucks. I can't believe that you have been doing this for almost 2 years. I am bummed that I will most likely have to wait until spring!


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## sagelfn (Aug 13, 2009)

A lot of what I'd do differently is because Sage is my first dog..lots of trial and error. He's a smart boy though, I don't think I've messed him up too much 

consistency 
clicker training from the start (1st attempt was an epic fail on my part- charging the clicker is important:blush


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## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

sagelfn said:


> A lot of what I'd do differently is because Sage is my first dog..lots of trial and error. He's a smart boy though, I don't think I've messed him up too much


You're not alone, I have spent the last 14 years screwing-up GSDs....I have myself convinced I'm going to do it better this time!


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

This is a really great thread for inexperienced owners, but a few questions arise. (Note: It is a general problem on the forum that people use terminology and abbreviations that inexperienced GSD owners don't understand and keep the forum from being even more helpful that it already is. A glossary would be nice. It would keep some of us from asking a billion questions.)

What do you mean, exactly, when you talk about focus?

"Focused heeling and positions." What does positions mean?

What is drive containment?

Can someone explain "prey drive based training?"

"Foundational work for the retrieve." What is it and why is it important?

What is muzzle holding?

Thanks!


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## elisabeth_00117 (May 17, 2009)

sagelfn said:


> A lot of what I'd do differently is because Sage is my first dog..lots of trial and error. He's a smart boy though, I don't think I've messed him up too much
> 
> consistency
> clicker training from the start (1st attempt was an epic fail on my part- charging the clicker is important:blush


Same here about the first dog thing. I didn't realize how much work my parents did with Beau until I got Stark!


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## Good_Karma (Jun 28, 2009)

IF I get another puppy someday, I hope that I will have more patience, and not let the puppy's not understanding me get me angry. Now that I have a better understanding of how long it takes to teach a puppy how to behave the way I want him too, hopefully I can be more patient with the next one.

It's funny, I thought I was a very loving and gentle person...until I got puppies. I gave myself waaaaay too much credit. Learned a lot of ugly things about myself. 

I never hurt either of my puppies, but I yelled, and the intensity of my anger shocked me. I've never been more angry in my life, and to think that the anger was directed at innocent young animals makes me hate myself just a little bit.

So I'm hoping that I will be a better person in the future.


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## vat (Jul 23, 2010)

Well since Max is 9 months I think I have done pretty well already. But heeling, I suck at training it! Also I will have a flirtpole, OMG!!! I just made my first one and why did I not know about this baby years ago? It is great to wear out a dog.

I think since I just raised a pup 2 years ago I have had the benefit of starting over (not by my choosing) and learning from past mistakes.


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## JakodaCD OA (May 14, 2000)

If I could do things over with Masi,,I would have exposed her more to kids, and I would not have taken a puppy free for all class


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

W.Oliver said:


> Just killin' time here while I wait to see if Itzakat and my fate intersect. Lets say you've raised a GSD or two, and you're getting a new pup....what would you do different when raising this one?
> 
> I'll start....I am going to manage feeding differently. I have over fed in the past, thereby killing food drive, and having one less tool to work with.


Lot's more active playing WITH my pup and socialization.

Much less emphasis on 'obedience' (unless I can make SURE the pup thinks it's part of the BEST game EVER!).

I want to assure my puppy has an attitude like this:


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## KMSlemons (Jun 30, 2010)

Personally, I would get a 8 week old puppy so I could bond and start training. Mgelika was almost 4 months old when I got him and though he's a very good boy, he is loathe to learn much. He's gotten sit, down, stay, and up. He's doing pretty good with heel, but that's about it. He shows no interest in fetch, or other forms of play. So, yes, I would get a tiny, wiggly puppy to start teaching.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

> Personally, I would get a 8 week old puppy so I could bond and start training. Mgelika was almost 4 months old when I got him and though he's a very good boy, he is loathe to learn much. He's gotten sit, down, stay, and up. He's doing pretty good with heel, but that's about it. He shows no interest in fetch, or other forms of play. So, yes, I would get a tiny, wiggly puppy to start teaching.


A person I train with got her dog at 16 months and they are so very bonded, you'd never ever know she didn't have him since he left the breeder at 8 weeks. He is now 5 and they are an awesome team.

I don't really think the age you get the pup is what forms a strong bond. If you work on engagement and keep it all fun, not overdoing your sessions it will help while the pup is learning.


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## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

Good_Karma said:


> IF I get another puppy someday, I hope that I will have more patience, and not let the puppy's not understanding me get me angry. Now that I have a better understanding of how long it takes to teach a puppy how to behave the way I want him too, hopefully I can be more patient with the next one.
> 
> It's funny, I thought I was a very loving and gentle person...until I got puppies. I gave myself waaaaay too much credit. Learned a lot of ugly things about myself.
> 
> ...


Thanks for being so open and honest....I can stand with you. Things as subtle as consistent tone and quality of voice. I know I have made progress and it is reflected as the strength in recall compared in my first to second GSD, and what I hope to accomplish with number three.....but I am totally with you, as I think most trainers are to one degree or another....we're human.


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## kiya (May 3, 2010)

Lakota is the 5th pup I am training and I have totally changed for the better over the 20 years since my first GSD. She's the first with a clicker. We started off really great, I know she's going thru a phase but I cant get her to focus for anything right now. She's almost 8 months and I really can't complain about how she's turning out, I wish I was more consistent. Over the summer I feel slacking off we lost something. I did put an emphasis on socialization, there really aren't any children in my life and I'm not comfortable with strangers children, don't want to get sued for a scratch. I think the only thing I would change or add is to be able to devote more time to training, not only the morning session that I do. After work at night I would like to stop coming up with excuses like its too hot, its to cold, I'm tired, no matter how I feel in the morning we do something everyday and school on Saturday morning.


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## cshepherd9 (Feb 11, 2010)

My older dog Dallas is not totally dog friendly (she is selective in who she accepts) so I was a little nervous bringing Willow into the house and how Dallas would respond. When Dallas accepted Willow (who was about 8 wks) I got real excited and didn't take notice on how much Willow bonded with Dallas. That is what I would change if I got another pup. I would take more time to get the pup to bond one on one with me early on and not the other dog. Even at 1 yr, when I get home Willow runs straight to Dallas to say hi and only then does she come back and greet me! 
But all dogs are different, I had an older dog as well when I got Dallas, yet Dallas bonded instantly with me. Dallas it totally focused on me around the house. That is why it never occurred to me that bonding would be an issue.


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## Lilie (Feb 3, 2010)

As Hondo is only a year old, I still have plenty of time to continue messing things up. But I can honestly say that with my next pup I'm going to remember that no matter how I feel that day, my dog thinks I am so much more then I can ever be in his eyes. And figure out sooner how a rub between the eyes can make my dog melt in my hands. How such a tiny thing can mean so very much to my dog.


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## VegasResident (Oct 4, 2006)

lets see. I am on my third one and he is 12 week sold. 

what I did differently

1. better food
2. clicker training
3. more socialization starting right at 8 weeks
4. more control over location (last one ate a couch, table, pup tent and cabinet)
5. more walks and hikes
6. stricter attendance at classes (started puppy kindergarten last week at 12 weeks)

This one has a higher drive and nips ALOT! Last one never nipped or mouthed a person her entire life even when stepped on. I liked that and she also had a Labrador to play with so maybe alot of nipping went that way. Guess that one is just a crap shoot 

Give me 12 years now and I will be back with a new list because I am sure to screw many things up again.

Liek an earlier poster I want to try harder to realize that when they make me frustrated or angry it is because I have not done my job right.


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## Jason L (Mar 20, 2009)

paulag1955 said:


> This is a really great thread for inexperienced owners, but a few questions arise. (Note: It is a general problem on the forum that people use terminology and abbreviations that inexperienced GSD owners don't understand and keep the forum from being even more helpful that it already is. A glossary would be nice. It would keep some of us from asking a billion questions.)
> 
> What do you mean, exactly, when you talk about focus?
> 
> ...


Keep in mind Itzakat is going to be a Schutzhund rockstar so some of the advice given there are geared towards preparing him to kick butt at the Nationals at 2015! 

Positions just means sit, down, stand. Basic position means sit at heel. Position can also refer to the dog staying in perfect alignment to your left leg (even when moving) which will be important later on for heeling.

The highest score you can get in SchH obedience is 100 pts. Out of the 100pts, 40 pts go to 3 retrieve exercises. That's why we were talking about getting a good foundation on retrieve. Muzzle holding is part of setting such foundation - so later on we can teach the dog to have a calm hold on the dumbbell for the retrieve.


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

Jason L said:


> Keep in mind Itzakat is going to be a Schutzhund rockstar so some of the advice given there are geared towards preparing him to kick butt at the Nationals at 2015!
> 
> Positions just means sit, down, stand. Basic position means sit at heel. Position can also refer to the dog staying in perfect alignment to your left leg (even when moving) which will be important later on for heeling.
> 
> The highest score you can get in SchH obedience is 100 pts. Out of the 100pts, 40 pts go to 3 retrieve exercises. That's why we were talking about getting a good foundation on retrieve. Muzzle holding is part of setting such foundation - so later on we can teach the dog to have a calm hold on the dumbbell for the retrieve.


Thanks! I watched the video that was linked on the first page (I think) and it was amazing the way that puppy was glued to the woman's leg!


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## Caledon (Nov 10, 2008)

Would have selected a better breeder
Would have gotten her at 8 weeks vs 11 weeks
Used a clicker sooner
Read books sooner
Would not take the dog to dog parks
Worked a lot harder on foucs work when she was young
Repeated an obedience level 
Go for private lessons - I really did get overlooked in the class situtation


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## SchHGSD (Dec 20, 2001)

Jason L said:


> Positions just means sit, down, stand. Basic position means sit at heel. Position can also refer to the dog staying in perfect alignment to your left leg (even when moving) which will be important later on for heeling.


That reminds me. Each new puppy I say I am going to teach the STAND with the sit and down as a puppy, and each puppy I seem to forget to do it...hmm....maybe this time.

I am also teaching a go around finish, after of years of flip finishes.


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

SchHGSD said:


> I am also teaching a go around finish, after of years of flip finishes.


What are go around and flip finishes?


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## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

Jason L said:


> Keep in mind Itzakat is going to be a Schutzhund rockstar so some of the advice given there are geared towards preparing him to kick butt at the Nationals at 2015!


:rofl: You're a funny man! When I was a kid we had a saying that clearly applies here....."never, never drop the brown acid".


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## Jessiewessie99 (Mar 6, 2009)

With Molly-

-Gone to better breeder
-Trained to walk on a leash better and faster.
Well I don't know what else, because she is pretty the perfect dog for me, wouldn't trade her for the world.
Oh! Trained her for Agility.Maybe if I had more say than my parents dominating everything things would have been a breeze. No wonder Molly likes me more, she listens and obeys me more than everyone else in the family, same with Tanner.

Tanner
-Trained him not to bolt out the door sooner(I learned that the hard way.)
-Trained him earlier so he can be a therapy dog(still can and will)
-Train him not to act like Michael Jordan when the Mail person comes.
Otherwise I don't know what else to change about him, he has his quirks, he came form a shelter and knew what I was getting into.=)

I wouldn't trade either for the world.

Just curious. Does a dog have to be bred for Schutzhund or can any dog get involved in it?


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## Uniballer (Mar 12, 2002)

Jessiewessie99 said:


> Does a dog have to be bred for Schutzhund or can any dog get involved in it?


Any dog can give it a try. Fewer will be able to do it. Very few will excel. Most people who do the sport think the right genetics give the dog a much better chance. Now if they could only all agree on what are the "right" genetics.


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## JazzNScout (Aug 2, 2008)

I'm getting to practice it now, as I have my fourth GSD, who is my 9th dog since childhood.

The main thing I'm doing differently is socializing, socializing, socializing -- exposing my puppy to as much as possible. With my previous dogs, I did a puppy basic class and walked the dogs twice a day (where, of course, they'd see other people and dogs) -- but it wasn't enough. Two of my three shepherds could not be trusted either around certain people or around other dogs. This time, I'm approaching it all differently:

Layla is in a puppy basics class once a week. She goes to doggy daycare 1 - 2 times a week (and is finally warming up enough that she has played with 3 dogs there); she comes to work with me about once a week, where she is exposed to a co-worker's dogs, various people, and farm animals; and we walk her twice a week at a very busy park where people are skating, running, walking, biking, walking dogs, etc. Sometimes we sit with her there, close to the pathway, just so she can experience all the crazy things that go by. I'm planning on keeping her in classes. I also realize that my life situation now (my work, salary, etc.) allows me to do things this way. 

My puppy has done a complete (positive) turn-around with people (at 12 weeks, when I got her, she was terribly fearful), and she has just made that turn the past week with regard to "strange" dogs.


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## Ruthie (Aug 25, 2009)

paulag1955 said:


> What are go around and flip finishes?


They are two different types of finishes in obedience. The flip finish is done with the dog facing the handler and then "flipping" around to settle in heel position on the handlers left side. The "go around" is when the dog is facing the handler then approaches the right side, walks around the back side of the handler and ends in heel position on the handlers left side.

You also asked about drive containment,that was in my post. I didn't do this with Bison and the result is that he sometimes doesn't know what to do with his drive, basically lack of discipline.


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## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

SchHGSD said:


> I am also teaching a go around finish, after of years of flip finishes.


Funny to me, because I intend on training the flip finish as I have always used the go around approach in the past.


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## Jason L (Mar 20, 2009)

Ruthie said:


> You also asked about drive containment,that was in my post. I didn't do this with Bison and the result is that he sometimes doesn't know what to do with his drive, basically lack of discipline.


We're just starting Ike with this in protection, teaching him the command "voran" and, of course, also teaching him the the flip side of "voran" is SHUT THE @#$% UP when you are not working


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## W.Oliver (Aug 26, 2007)

Jason L said:


> ....also teaching him the the flip side of "voran" is SHUT THE @#$% UP when you are not working


Yes Sir, for sure. We've been building Dayna's confidence and drive for so long, we're just now starting to put some obedience in the bite work. Previously, we've not wanted to squash anything she brought to the field. She is a delicate flower with 42 teeth. I am hoping Itzakat is a sturdy land shark.


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

Jason L said:


> We're just starting Ike with this in protection, teaching him the command "voran" and, of course, also teaching him the the flip side of "voran" is SHUT THE @#$% UP when you are not working


What is "voran?"


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

Ruthie said:


> You also asked about drive containment,that was in my post. I didn't do this with Bison and the result is that he sometimes doesn't know what to do with his drive, basically lack of discipline.


So self control?


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## Uniballer (Mar 12, 2002)

paulag1955 said:


> What is "voran?"


Literally "Go on".

Most people use it for the schutzhund blind search, so to them it means the dog should hold and bark at the helper. I say "revier" for that.

I use "voran" to mean "go bite him" (see the rule book for the proper commands for the long bite).


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## Chris Wild (Dec 14, 2001)

A few things I did differently with Heidi than with dogs in the past, and I love the results:

Use the clicker at first, rather than just luring and verbal markers, for early puppy work on positions, focus, imprinting heeling, etc... I like the way the clicker, moreso than markers and luring, conditions the dog to think and try things rather than just wait to be told/shown what to do.

Finally after a half dozen dogs taught the stand right from the beginning along with the sit and down rather than waiting until after the SchH1. Always said I was going to do it earlier, and finally did!

Teach the blind search early on as a fun obedience exercise, even though she's not started actual protection yet and won't for a while.

More agility type work, including agility classes, early in puppyhood for teaching body awareness, and also for great socialization, confidence building and work amidst distraction.

Incorporating more social attraction/pack drive into our play and especially into obedience, and now also tracking, rather than focusing more heavily on food and toy/prey drive.

Introducing some forms of (very mild) compulsion early on, rather than waiting until later and having a more abrupt paradigm shift for the dog when the correction phase comes. 

These last 2, more pack drive and a bit of mild compulsion earlier, I did way back when with my first SchH dog, then got away from a bit in recent years, and now have returned to using a bit more, though in a bit different manner.


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## SchHGSD (Dec 20, 2001)

W.Oliver said:


> Funny to me, because I intend on training the flip finish as I have always used the go around approach in the past.


I've had some dogs with nice flip finishes, and I can't say It's been a big point loss, but time for a newer method, since I've been seeing some super fast go arounds lately.



Chris Wild said:


> A few things I did differently with Heidi than with dogs in the past, and I love the results:
> 
> Use the clicker at first, rather than just luring and verbal markers, for early puppy work on positions, focus, imprinting heeling, etc... I like the way the clicker, moreso than markers and luring, conditions the dog to think and try things rather than just wait to be told/shown what to do.


I did lots of this, but no luring. Both are important I think. I'd try to lure a puppy into position and he's look at me like "huh? which behavior do you want?" and go through them, when all I wanted was to follow the food.

This time I have both installed on this puppy. He will lure, or he will offer the behavior.

But at least you finally did the stand! I guess it's not too late he's only 4 1/2 m old...


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## Chris Wild (Dec 14, 2001)

SchHGSD said:


> I did lots of this, but no luring. Both are important I think. I'd try to lure a puppy into position and he's look at me like "huh? which behavior do you want?" and go through them, when all I wanted was to follow the food.


Yes! For sure need to do both and balance it out without leaning too much toward one or the other.


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

What I like about luring is that the lure motion can be faded to become your hand signal so that's something I like to do, with either a verbal marker or a clicker. I spent much more time with Halo than I did with Keefer teaching basic positions with both a verbal command and a hand signal, so that they were equally strong no matter which I used. In addition to that what I did a lot of with both of them from the time they came home a puppies was to use the clicker to capture and reinforce behaviors I liked. I spent tons of time just sitting on the floor with them, saying nothing, and clicking and tossing a treat every time they looked at me. It helped create a strong default behavior of attention and eye contact. 

They both also have strong default downs because that was something else I constantly reinforced when it was offered. I wanted them to look at me when I told them to and to sit and down too, but it's nice to have default behaviors for them to fall back on without me having to always tell them what to do. By the time they entered puppy class they'd lay on the floor and stare at me for hours as long as I tossed them a treat occasionally!

And as Chris said, letting them figure out stuff on their own as to what works to earn the reward is great - it creates an enthusiasm for training and I think the more you can be patient and let them work stuff out the more they _learn_ how to learn.


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## Ruthie (Aug 25, 2009)

Jason L said:


> We're just starting Ike with this in protection, teaching him the command "voran" and, of course, also teaching him the the flip side of "voran" is SHUT THE @#$% UP when you are not working


 
Bison has improved tramendously this last year with all the training we have been doing. I think a lot is me becoming more confident as well, but he still has his moments.



paulag1955 said:


> So self control?


Yes.


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## VChurch (Jun 14, 2010)

I'm on my second dog -- and I'm doing A LOT of things differently. I learned a lot with my first dog and I wish I had of known a lot more about how to train a dog. My first dog is a great dog and pretty obedient, but he could be better.
Minna is a great dog and I'm focusing on things with her that I didn't focus on with Sobacca -- like recall, and fetch.
But I'm also retraining some things with Sobacca right now -- like being okay with being alone upstairs while I'm downstairs with the puppy; and working on his recall extensively; etc etc. 

However, with my next dog I plan on getting a working line shepherd and doing schutzhund with him/her -- I was going to do it with this one, but decided not to for various reasons.


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