# Aggression towards other dogs



## sfindley (Jul 3, 2009)

I am just about at my wits end! My dog is a one year old female, we have been through one obedience class, and I walk her often. My problem is when we pass other dogs on the path, she gets very aggressive and lunges towards them. I have tried the following with little or no success: pulling up on the leash and continue (she's very big and this is hard) turning around and walking the other way, trying to distract her with a treat, making her sit until they pass by. I always have myself between her and other dogs. Does anyone have the solution? She wasn't socialized well as a puppy, and I hope this problem can be fixed.....HELP!


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## Chicagocanine (Aug 7, 2008)

Is she truly aggressive, trying to fight or bite, or just reactive?


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## GSDTrain (Apr 21, 2008)

You want to go about it very slowly, using counter conditioning and positive reinforcement. You start by figuring out the dog's comfort level (how far away can they be without lunging) and begin counter conditioning at that distance. Then you gradually get closer, being careful never to go out of the comfort zone. It can be a very slow process and requires a tremendous amount of patience on the part of the human. 

If you pressure the dog beyond its capability to cope, you risk a big setback. You want to find the "just right" working zone, where your dog feels a little pressure but still is able to focus on you and listen to you and take treats. Not taking food is a good sign that your dog's over the threshold, that is, IF your dog is food-motivated to begin with. It works the same with toys. If your dog's ball crazy but you find it won't pay attention when you wave the ball in front of its face, you're over the threshold, back off.

Also try using the Sense-ation harness. I don't know what type of collar/harness you are using now but I really recommend it.

Please keep us posted on how she is doing.

Also more OB classes probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.


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## mastercabman (Jun 11, 2007)

Good luck! I have the same problem with my 2.5 year old female.
I have tried everything(well almost) and it's not going away.
The only thing is that i do use prong collar and i do have better control.I also use the command "leave it" and she's not as bad as she use to be.
I am thinking of using a device to end this problem but i have not got to it yet.
I think it's a female thing,over-protecting.I have been told that by many trainers!


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## Sashmom (Jun 5, 2002)

oliver annie, no its not a female thing, wow my male is bad. I finally got fed up today, we were walking by the dog behind the fence who is very non aggressive and I could tell Neek was going to start his non sense. I pulled him up close to my leg and made him sit there until he calmed down, I was at my witsend with this non sense needless to say, he calmed down and figured out once he did he could proceed on his walk. I couldnt walk him without a prong....Id end up splat on the road he lunges so bad. put the prong up high around to his ears almost. 
My other male, he was same way. I even tried holding a handful of hotdog slices once in front of his face, didnt work. He just didnt like other dogs coming near him which was strange because at the Vets or his OB class, he was very good


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## mastercabman (Jun 11, 2007)

sashmom,you are probably right,i'm also fed up with her.But Oliver(male)is great!!!! Good with people,good with other dogs,good in general "THE BEST" 
But Annie she's just not the same.But she is good at the vet!!


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## sfindley (Jul 3, 2009)

I'm not really sure. She reacts differently to different dogs. Sometimes it's a friendly wag of the tail...other times her hair is up on her back.


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## sfindley (Jul 3, 2009)

Great advice! I forgot to say I am using a prong collar. I thought about it and wondered if my behavior changes when I see another dog coming. Do I change my stride, or perhaps tighten up without realizing it? So tonight I tried to keep my stride consistent and loop the leash without her realizing it as soon as I saw another dog approaching. As we walked by the other dog, I said "leave it" and just kept going while holding her close. Is that what you mean? If not...let me know...I am so willing to learn! I have thought about going back to class...maybe it IS a good idea...thanks so very much!


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

Prong collars will sometimes ramp up a reactive dog. I would get back into a class for sure and the sensation harness is a good choice instead of the prong for now. The book Control Unleashed is so helpful for this type situation, I recommend it highly! In my area there was a CU class based on the book, it helped me with managing Onyx's reactiveness. Her age may have something to do with her attitude as well.


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## Chicagocanine (Aug 7, 2008)

I am taking a "reactive dog" training class with Bianca and the first thing they told us is not to use prong or choke collars, because it can make the problem worse-- they see another dog and they get a correction, so they start to associate the correction with seeing the other dog and then they just get more worked up when they see a dog...


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## Brightelf (Sep 5, 2001)

This depends on what's BEHIND the reactivity. 

Scared, anxious dog? Treats, clicker, redirect, focus! try a Halti, a flat collar. Work at whatever distance the dog does NOT yet react. Gradually over a few weeks, work the dog closer to other dogs.

Dog who has repeatedly had success in barrier frustration tantrums because he wants to go PLAY with the other dog? use a stern voice, and whatever collar or corrections are strong enough to tell the dog that he may NOT start a party-- and keep right on moving. Calmly. use momentum.

By the way, I SWORE my own dog was "dog aggressive" because his barking/lunging SCARED me! It took 3 separate behaviorists to basicly grab me by the nose and says "Uhh, NO... he LOVES other dogs. That's the problem. He can't WAIT to get a party started, knows a leash is stopping his fun, and has a tantrum." Barrier frustration-- Google it! This may be what is bothering your dog, too.

We are still working on it.


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## Sashmom (Jun 5, 2002)

> Originally Posted By: ChicagocanineI am taking a "reactive dog" training class with Bianca and the first thing they told us is not to use prong or choke collars, because it can make the problem worse-- they see another dog and they get a correction, so they start to associate the correction with seeing the other dog and then they just get more worked up when they see a dog...


As long as your dog is not that strong and you feel you wont end up on the ground that is OK but Ive tried flat collar and Neek took off like a rocket *he knows the difference* I went down and twisted my leg, the pain was bad. I cant afford to get hurt. He is 90# and VERY strong. he was on a flat collar and I left the leash loose that night....so I have t take a different approach if he gets away from me, we are in trouble.


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

> Originally Posted By: BrightelfBy the way, I SWORE my own dog was "dog aggressive" because his barking/lunging SCARED me! It took 3 separate behaviorists to basicly grab me by the nose and says "Uhh, NO... he LOVES other dogs. That's the problem. He can't WAIT to get a party started, knows a leash is stopping his fun, and has a tantrum." Barrier frustration-- Google it! This may be what is bothering your dog, too.


Patti that also describes Keefer. He's VERY social off leash with other dogs, and completely comfortable around strange dogs. Even on leash he's fine once he's around them, it's when they are in the distance that it's a problem for him. When we took him to the Oakland A's baseball game last year he did his typical barking and lunging towards other dogs as we walked across the parking lot towards the meeting area, but once we were in line waiting to get into the Dog Day event area, and hanging out there with all the other dogs before the game, he was perfectly fine. Lining up to go into the game with dogs in front and behind him, and at our seats, he was also perfect. It's just seeing another dog somewhere over there that he can't go meet that gets him all worked up, or out the car window, or walking past the house. I KNEW he wasn't dog aggressive because he had been around so many other dogs routinely from a young age. 

He has a problem with Sudden Environmental Changes (SECs), so it makes sense that being surrounded by other dogs, either off OR on leash doesn't set him off.


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## Chicagocanine (Aug 7, 2008)

> Originally Posted By: Sashmom
> As long as your dog is not that strong and you feel you wont end up on the ground that is OK but Ive tried flat collar and Neek took off like a rocket *he knows the difference* I went down and twisted my leg, the pain was bad. I cant afford to get hurt. He is 90# and VERY strong. he was on a flat collar and I left the leash loose that night....so I have t take a different approach if he gets away from me, we are in trouble.



Oh, Bianca is plenty strong, plus she weighs 73 lbs... I don't walk her on a flat collar because I would probably be dragged down the street when she saw another dog. I use a Sense-ation harness, and will probably be using a Halti soon as that is what the trainer of the class we're taking recommended for in class. The Sense-ation works pretty well but I think the Halti might provide more control (although I will definitely be attaching an extra line to her collar as well in case she slips it.)


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## RubyTuesday (Jan 20, 2008)

> Quote:As long as your dog is not that strong and you feel you wont end up on the ground that is OK but Ive tried flat collar and Neek took off like a rocket *he knows the difference* I went down and twisted my leg, the pain was bad.


En route to our 1st training class Djibouti saw a cat & did this to me...Slick,muddy ground, large powerful dog...I thought he was going to pull my arm from its socket! Naturally it was my 'good' shoulder. Oh well, at least he gave me a matched pair.

At the class the trainer showed us a way of tying the leash under & around the dog's chest/abdomen to increase control when the dog pulls or lunges. That alone was worth the price of the class. Once we're away from cats on the porch, sidewalk & bushes I undo it & let him walk normally. It's also invaluable on ice in those early moments when he's adjusting himself to my slower pace. Cheap, effective, humane & always available when walking him.


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## caview (Jun 30, 2008)

RubyTuesday,

Can you please describe how to tie the leash this way?

Would greatly appreciate it!

Tanya


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## sfindley (Jul 3, 2009)

What do they recommend to use?


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## Lauri & The Gang (Jun 28, 2001)

Tazer was a (not so) willing model:

Attach the leash to the collar. Drape the leash over the dogs back (1) and then wrap it around the dogs waist and pull it through the loop (2).










When you pull the leash tight it looks like this:











This works especially well on males (I'm sure you can tell why).


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## caview (Jun 30, 2008)

Lauri,

Thank you so much for the kind demonstration!

I can see how it will help control the dog, but what I'm wondering about is what it does to the dog in the process?

This is a very serious question for me as Xargos used to lung at cars very badly, and with me being less than 20 pounds heavier than he is, this is a huge concern. He is much better now as we are working on it every time we go for a walk, but I'm always watching him and need to be ready.. I do know though that he responds so much to my anxiety, so I have to be very casual.. My fear is that this set up will only make thing worse.. Any thoughts?

My husband discovered something that is a huge help for me - to control the dog much easier, wrap the leash once on your hand at about 3 feet from the collar - you'll be able to apply much less pressure and have the leverage point..

Tanya


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## Lauri & The Gang (Jun 28, 2001)

Tanya - I've had people use their leashes just like that to walk their very large dogs in and (drag them) out of the field during lure coursing. None of the dogs ever showed a concern (other than not wanting to leave the field).


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