# How would you handle this?



## I_LOVE_MY_MIKKO (Oct 4, 2006)

We've been having difficulty with these types of opening sequences, sometimes going off course but often losing precious time. Mikko loves to take off from the start line and not turn right away. How would you handle 1-3 WITHOUT a lead out?


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## JakodaCD OA (May 14, 2000)

I've watched your opening quite a few times, I can't tell the direct path from 1-2 to well from the video, but what I might have done..

If you had started to the right side of the jump 1 vs the left, dog had a straight path (even tho jumps would be angled), I would have set him up for a straight line to the 2nd jump (again even tho jumps would be angled) and I would have been by that #3 jump vs near the tunnel..as soon as he committed to 2, I would have been yelling HERE, which would hopefully have him turning to you mid aire, heading for #3 vs the tunnel suck.

It looks like you weren't blocking the tunnel, but right next to it, swung your hand? and he was gonna go for that tunnel suckNice run by the way!!! Fast and accurate


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## wildo (Jul 27, 2006)

Personally- I think I'd likely have done exactly what you did. Either start running with, or lead out just passed jump one. Using rotation in my shoulders, I'd send to jump two and front cross to be lined up for jump three- pretty much exactly what you did.

I think if this is a kind of opening sequence that catches you, then you need to be ultra clear on your redirect at jump two. I feel you were a _little_ late in your front cross, but more importantly- you still had forward motion to the tunnel *AS* Mikko was in the air dedicated to the jump. Therefore- you cued the tunnel (which is another way of saying you cued the FC late).

Here's a screencap showing your cue was late. Notice Mikko is already committed to the jump and you are still cuing tunnel. Your hips are cuing tunnel and your shoulders are only just now starting to turn into Mikko for the cross. I think had your shoulders been pointing _at_ Mikko at this point, you'd have gotten the front cross:









A strategy you might take if you see an immediately redirect early on in the sequence is a forward send. With this- you can send Mikko up to the next jump while you_ stay back_. Linda Mecklenburg most definitely defines handler location as a cue for a turn. Not to mention that she defines forward motion as a cue to _not_ turn. Therefore hanging back via a forward send not only stops your forward motion, but also cues the turn with your body location (among other things).

Or if you prefer the Derrett system, then I'd say that you should visit Susan Garrett's one jump dvd- especially the section around turning. This is near the beginning of the DVD. As she (and probably Greg as well) would say, "a change of hands means a change of direction!" You did change hands- Mikko didn't respond. So you might visit that in training. 

Garrett has a game where you set the dog in a sit- lead out- and throw a medium value toy ahead of you in front of the dog. Release the dog and start moving to that toy. Then change hands and present a higher value tug (that you conveniently stashed on your body) when the dog redirects to you. This will build the behavior of 'a change of hands means a change of direction.' Be sure to also drive forward sometimes so that your dog isn't constantly questioning if Mama is going to make him redirect...

Yet one more strategy might be something I could see (if you embrace blind crosses). You could set your dog up on your left at jump one and do a very slight lead out. Release your dog and you both start running. You're slightly ahead, so you can easily get the blind cross. This puts you on the inside of the turn at jump two, it gives Mikko forward motion in order to not be pulled off of jump two, it draws attention to you being on the inside signalling a tight turn at jump two, and finally puts you in a good position for a front cross after turn two. If you embrace blind crosses, I think you could have good success with this strategy. It's a bit long winded, but in the end- the main key would be to signify to Mikko that Mama just changed sides, so there is probably a turn coming up. 

Very nice run! I assume you were jumping 24"? Since I've been practicing at 16" for a while- those jumps seems SO high! haha! Nice work!


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## I_LOVE_MY_MIKKO (Oct 4, 2006)

JakodaCD OA said:


> I've watched your opening quite a few times, I can't tell the direct path from 1-2 to well from the video, but what I might have done..
> 
> If you had started to the right side of the jump 1 vs the left, dog had a straight path (even tho jumps would be angled), I would have set him up for a straight line to the 2nd jump (again even tho jumps would be angled) and I would have been by that #3 jump vs near the tunnel..as soon as he committed to 2, I would have been yelling HERE, which would hopefully have him turning to you mid aire, heading for #3 vs the tunnel suck.
> 
> It looks like you weren't blocking the tunnel, but right next to it, swung your hand? and he was gonna go for that tunnel suckNice run by the way!!! Fast and accurate


Thanks! This is what my trainer thought I could have done as well. I walked it that way too, but ultimately chose the front. I agree that would have been a better choice vs my poor front cross.




wildo said:


> Personally- I think I'd likely have done exactly what you did. Either start running with, or lead out just passed jump one. Using rotation in my shoulders, I'd send to jump two and front cross to be lined up for jump three- pretty much exactly what you did.
> 
> I think if this is a kind of opening sequence that catches you, then you need to be ultra clear on your redirect at jump two. I feel you were a _little_ late in your front cross, but more importantly- you still had forward motion to the tunnel *AS* Mikko was in the air dedicated to the jump. Therefore- you cued the tunnel (which is another way of saying you cued the FC late).
> 
> Here's a screencap showing your cue was late. Notice Mikko is already committed to the jump and you are still cuing tunnel. Your hips are cuing tunnel and your shoulders are only just now starting to turn into Mikko for the cross. I think had your shoulders been pointing _at_ Mikko at this point, you'd have gotten the front cross


Good to know this wasn't so much a poor choice in handling but just poor execution. I agree, my front was late. Thanks for the screenshot, it really helped me visualize how late I was. I really need to work on fronts. I see people with border collies that are so fast, yet can get in front crosses where I think I can't- probably because I do them too late.



> A strategy you might take if you see an immediately redirect early on in the sequence is a forward send. With this- you can send Mikko up to the next jump while you_ stay back_. Linda Mecklenburg most definitely defines handler location as a cue for a turn. Not to mention that she defines forward motion as a cue to _not_ turn. Therefore hanging back via a forward send not only stops your forward motion, but also cues the turn with your body location (among other things).


And rear cross behind two as Diane suggested?



> Or if you prefer the Derrett system, then I'd say that you should visit Susan Garrett's one jump dvd- especially the section around turning. This is near the beginning of the DVD. As she (and probably Greg as well) would say, "a change of hands means a change of direction!" You did change hands- Mikko didn't respond. So you might visit that in training.


I know, he set his eyes on that tunnel and with my late cue, I had no chance. I have been working on front crosses since then, from the beginning on the flat and working on his recognizing my change of hands and turning into him.



> Garrett has a game where you set the dog in a sit- lead out- and throw a medium value toy ahead of you in front of the dog. Release the dog and start moving to that toy. Then change hands and present a higher value tug (that you conveniently stashed on your body) when the dog redirects to you. This will build the behavior of 'a change of hands means a change of direction.' Be sure to also drive forward sometimes so that your dog isn't constantly questioning if Mama is going to make him redirect...


I will definitely try this- thanks!



> Yet one more strategy might be something I could see (if you embrace blind crosses). You could set your dog up on your left at jump one and do a very slight lead out. Release your dog and you both start running. You're slightly ahead, so you can easily get the blind cross. This puts you on the inside of the turn at jump two, it gives Mikko forward motion in order to not be pulled off of jump two, it draws attention to you being on the inside signalling a tight turn at jump two, and finally puts you in a good position for a front cross after turn two. If you embrace blind crosses, I think you could have good success with this strategy. It's a bit long winded, but in the end- the main key would be to signify to Mikko that Mama just changed sides, so there is probably a turn coming up.


I love blind crosses and have been using them a lot lately! I know the video quality is pretty poor, but I used 2-3 of them in this run (one of which the lady is grabbing Mikko's leash, so it's hard to see). So put one in between 1 and 2? I have never used a blind in the opening of a course, but I will practice this for sure. Where exactly would you put the front after that?



> Very nice run! I assume you were jumping 24"? Since I've been practicing at 16" for a while- those jumps seems SO high! haha! Nice work!


Thanks! Actually, the jumps are 26". In USDAA, dogs over 21" jump 26". One day when we get our ADCh (hopefully!!), I'll move him down to Performance 22".

Thanks again to both of you for your input!


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## JakodaCD OA (May 14, 2000)

Just to clarify I think your front cross was GOOD, in itself, but their wasn't that 'block' to the tunnel, and like I said it looks like you swung your hand, or your body was directing him towards that tunnel.

In my opinion, I like being able to lead out, but there are just some dogs/situations where it doesn't work, it's all about the dog for me, if they aren't solid on start line stays, I'm going to go with what works for the dog which would be staying with them as you did..

Your crosses look great, front & rear, and he is really responsive to them from the video anyway (some will swing back and look vs going for it)..

I found after getting up into the higher classes when I was competing with Sami, for some reason her start line stay just wasn't working anymore , I would be able to do a really good lead out with her,,with that, my trainer had me adjust MYSELF to the dog, that is running with her, things worked out for her better that way


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