# how to teach dog to get objects and bring them??



## fireman85 (May 31, 2009)

not to sure how to go about teaching my gsd to get things for me off the ground and bring them.

my dog is obediance trained and knows how to do all the basics like heel,come,sit,stay,go to a down, and a few more..... she is very easy to teach, i am the one who needs to be taught on what to do to make her learn to get things for me so that im not confusing her.

the reason i am wanting to add this command to her others is because i broke my foot and am haveing a hard time of getting things on the floor









please help


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

"Bring it" is the command I use.

Can you 'send' your dog to a spot? Does she know Take It?


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

If you want a dog that is consistent with retrieving, you really need to teach a structured retrieve (starting with the very basics and working from there). Most GSDs have a natural retrieve instinct, which helps, but if you just do a play retrieve it doesn't really teach the dog to bring you things consistently when asked.

There are different methods for teaching a structured retrieve. Many old-style trainers still use an ear pinch (forced retrieve). I've found that there is a better method, a more motivational method, that doesn't involve much force. I use it on both my GSDs and my chows successfully.

The first step is to teach your dog to focus on an item. You need to choose an item that is NOT a toy for your dog. A training dumbbell is good, or you can just use a piece of doweling or 1x1" wood - you just need a specific item that is not viewed as a toy so that the dog learns the difference between play time and work time. 

Once you get your item, you are going to teach her to look at it. Yep, that's the first step - simply to acknowledge the item by looking at it. Put her on a leash (you can be sitting down, that's easiest for this part of the training anyhow, and you can sit on her leash to free up your hands) and have some good treats with you. Since she knows how to sit, you might ask her to sit in front of you to help with keeping her a bit more focused. Now, hold the training item out slightly to your right (in your right hand) and look at the item. Keeping YOUR eyes on the item will help her understand that she needs to look at it. She probably won't look at it right away, but keep a smile on your face and continue to gaze at the item. If she doesn't glance at it after 15 seconds or so, you might bounce it slightly or change it to the other hand. As SOON as she glances at it (the tiniest of glances, even if she looks away again) you mark that behavior with a happy "YESS!!" and then give her a treat. 

Let her finish her treat, ask her to sit again and repeat the exercise. While your eyes should be on the item, watch her with your peripheral vision so that you can see the exact micro-second that she glances at the item, and say "YESS!!" immediately when she does. The timing of the "YESS!" is vital - it needs to be right when she does the proper behavior - and the praise and treat can follow that even if she's stopped looking at the item. The "YESS!" marks the proper behavior.

Pretty soon she should be deliberately glancing at the item, once she figures out that looking at it gets her the reward. You want her to consistently glance at it regardless of where you hold it - to the left, the right, above her head, below her head. Plan on this taking several sessions spread out over a couple of days, at least. Each dog is different, but if your timing is good it shouldn't take too long.

Once she's consistently looking at the item when you hold it out, you want to make her escalate that behavior. Set her up for the session as normal, do one mark/reward for glancing at it, and then hold the item out again. This time when she glances at it, you do NOTHING. You stay silent and remain looking at the item. What you want now is to have her either glance at it again (requiring TWO glances or a sustained look) or to make a movement toward it (which many dogs will do at this point). You've raised the criteria and are now expecting a bit more of a reaction, and by withholding the "YESS!" when she first looks at it, you're pushing her into trying something more in order to earn the reward. Her slight frustration at not getting a reward will make her escalate her behavior. When she does the second glance, or holds her gaze on the item, or moves slightly toward it, mark that new behavior with "YESS!" and continue to practice that behavior so that it becomes consistent.

The next step is to get her to move toward it consistently, then when that's well established she needs to mouth it. Each of these steps can be accomplished by withholding the "YESS!" and waiting for her to try something new. Once she's mouthing it consistently, she needs to hold it a tiny bit, and then hold it more, etc. Once she's holding it, you can add in a "hold" word if you want.

Once she's understanding hold, and will willingly take an item from your hand and hold it for you, you start to lower the item down toward the floor. At first you may only be able to go an inch or two below chin level, but gradually you work it until you have it on the floor (with your hand still on it) and she'll pick it up and hold it for you. Then you have to wean your hand out of the picture, which can be difficult for some dogs. Set the item on the floor and lift your hand just an inch away at first, and gradually move your hand farther and farther up. If you try to go too fast, she'll stop working for you (because she's confused and doesn't have a solid enough previous step established). Go back and make sure each step is solid before moving on.

If you can do 3-4 short sessions (maybe 4-6 repetitions per session) per day, you will probably see some fairly quick progress. But take your time on each step - even if she seems to pick it up immediately, you really do need to make sure the basics are solid or later on she will probably crumble due to not truly understanding the exercise.

Once she's picking up the item for you, you can start changing out that item with other things. You may need to back up at first and do a quick reward for looking at it, touching it, etc. (because when you add in a different item, you completely change the exercise for your dog). Eventually she will understand that your "take it" command means anything you indicate, but at first she will associate the commands with the training item and will have to learn how to move past that.

My dogs have been a lot of help for me when I've been laid up and unable to do things. My chow (who is also my working Service Dog) brings me a number of things, including clothing, shoes, books (small ones), box of crackers, things I drop (from pens to papers, even a calcium tablet I dropped one day). She was taught with this method.

Good luck, and if you take the time to train this right you will always be pleased with the results!

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## JeffM (Dec 19, 2005)

We use "Bring <object> Here" or "Go get your <object>".

Don't really recall how we taught Thor but think we would tell him then walk over to the object and praise him when he picked it up.


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## Ashley Martin (May 8, 2009)

Thank you so much for taking the time to type this up--I started trying this with Robin this morning. He's four months old. Using a block of wood, he seemed to figure out fairly quickly that looking at it got him a treat. Then, as I was grabbing another handful of treats, he nosed the block of wood, so I went ahead and said Yea! and treated him. He seemed a little surprised, and went back to just looking at the wood when I did, but I didn't say Yea. 

After another minute or so, he nosed it again, and I treated and said Yea! After that, he probably nosed it twenty times. Every few times I moved the piece of wood higher, or lower, or to another hand or side of my body. Robin had a great expression on his face, as he'd nose the wood, half looking at me. I could almost see the gears of his brain turning! 

We'll work on it some more later today. Thanks again!


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

Here is an excellent video that demonstrates the basic technique that Melanie describes. This dog picks up an object that she's never seen before and delivers it to her owner in one session lasting just over 3 minutes, by free shaping the behavior (not giving the dog any verbal cues at all) with a clicker. But this is a dog who has been clicker trained for a while, so she's used to being rewarding for trying stuff until something finally works. A dog that has never been trained this way would obviously take longer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qpBDIh_dQI


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

Ashley, I'm so glad to hear you gave this a try and had such great success! I LOVE seeing the dogs suddenly go "ah HA!" as they figure it out .. *L* .. this type of training also teaches the dogs to think as they have to work out what exactly needs to be done in order to earn the treat. It's so different from the old styles of training where dogs were forced into doing things and weren't expected to use their brains. 

I wish I wasn't on dial-up and could view the video! Dogs that are already clicker-trained (which is basically the same concept as saying "YESS!" to mark the behavior, but you use a click instead) willingly try to figure out new behaviors. It's fun to see them work on it, offering different behaviors until they come across the one that their handler wants. Going through the retrieving steps above will help a dog learn to offer behaviors, too, as they are encouraged to escalate their behaviors and try something new. Some dogs will start offering behaviors they already know (like a down, or a spin, or a bark) but you just smile through those and don't mark/reward them, and the dog tries something else. 

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## Ashley Martin (May 8, 2009)

Some dogs will start offering behaviors they already know (like a down, or a spin, or a bark) but you just smile through those and don't mark/reward them, and the dog tries something else. 


Yeah, Robin did exactly this--he did a down, then a sit, then a down, then as a last resort, sniffed the wood and got a reward! It was like he couldn't figure out why that was such a big deal, but he did it anyway. 

We went at it again this afternoon, having changed the object to a lighter, floppier old wallet. He sniffed and I clicked and treated til the cows came home. I waited to see if he'd try another behavior, like picking it up, but we aren't there yet. It is so much fun to watch the cause and effect. Oh, and the YouTube video is terrific.


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

I'm excited to see this thread since I have the possibility of finding it difficult to bend down/over when my hips are hurting.










It's funny the timing, I was just thinking last week I needed to figure out how to teach Dante to retrieve stuff for me!!


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## 3K9Mom (Jun 12, 2006)

Great thread!!! Great info!!!


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## Ashley Martin (May 8, 2009)

Okay. Progress report: 

We worked on this again today. Yesterday Robin had the nosing part down, and today as well. So, I waited to see what he'd do next (after I decided that folding his paws on top of the wallet was very cute, but could not be rewarded), and he picked it up four times, and I took it from him. Yea!

Since I didn't feel that I'd treated/been excited enough after the fourth try, I waited for a fifth to finish on, but this was a mistake, because he started to get kind of anxious, and was drooling, acting like he wanted to leave. So we took a break from the wallet and did easy things he knows (sit, down, come, etc) for a minute, then went back for a fifth try. I snuck a little treat inside the wallet this time, and he picked it up as before. I got all happy, he got a lot of treats, and we quit for the time being. It was really too long a session: 45 minutes. Robin is only four months old. I was carried away because it was a lot of fun watching him think. 

What I am wondering is how many repeats of the desired behavior does the dog need before he realizes that he's doing what you want? When I was just wanting him to nose the wallet, Robin comprehended very well: he'd do that all day, because he knew he'd get a treat. Even today, after the four pick ups, he tried just nosing it. So I know he knows that was good for something.

We'll try again later today! Can't wait to see what happens!


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

Today Dante went from "Why the heck is your wallet on the floor" to a quick lick of the wallet


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

Hey, SO glad that more people are trying this! I love this training exercise. Dogs get so excited and happy about bringing us things, and it can be so beneficial for us too (Barb, you could train Dante to help you out a lot!). 

I find that if you rush too much through the early steps, even if the dog seems to want to move forward more quickly, that it can sometimes backfire as later on the dog gets confused since he didn't have a really solid understanding of the early steps. So you might want to slow down a bit with Robin, do maybe 10 minutes of this and then work on some other behaviors (you can keep them fun - teach him to spin, to tug on command, to touch a target with his nose [using a piece of duct tape is fun, and you can put it anywhere - wall, floor, doors, etc.], touch his face with his paw, etc.). ALL of these can be taught using the same basic method .. find a way to break the behavior down into tiny steps (does he need to look at something first? then touch? does he need to be lured into a movement?) then mark/reward each tiny step until it's solid and then wait for more. I find my dogs keep their enthusiasm better if I do small bits of training on numerous things, rather than continue to focus on one behavior for a long time.

Retrieving is one of those behaviors that can be morphed into so many things - not just bringing you items they see, but opening doors (tugging on a rag), bringing a pop from the fridge, tugging on a towel to help pull you into a stand (when you're sore), etc. Another really great behavior to tie into this is to teach your dog to go to the red dot of a lazer light. You teach it the same way you teach a target. Then when you're laid up with a broken leg or a sprained ankle, or you just feel lazy .. *L*, you can point the lazer at what you want, send the dog to the red dot and then give your "bring it" command. It's wonderful!

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## Ashley Martin (May 8, 2009)

Yeah, Robin and I are going to rewind a bit, and stick with just mouthing the wallet for now, and work on other stuff as well. I realized that he got frustrated today, because I was too eager. One step at a time is always the best.


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## bergwanderkennels (Mar 26, 2009)

The only problem I have is my dogs picking up Keys off the floor. I do not think they like the feel of the jagged keys in their mouth.


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## 3K9Mom (Jun 12, 2006)

> Quote:
> 
> Today Dante went from "Why the heck is your wallet on the floor" to a quick lick of the wallet


Tomorrow Dante will be at the "bank manager is calling because Dante has maxxed out the credit cards at the mall" stage.


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

> Originally Posted By: 3K9MomTomorrow Dante will be at the "bank manager is calling because Dante has maxxed out the credit cards at the mall" stage.










Luckily my friend's store is quite a ways away and he can't drive....otherwise I'm sure he'd head straight there not only to play with Tucker but to buy out one of the freezers of raw food


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

*We had pick-up*

We had actual pick-up today







so we stopped there.

It only took a couple of nose nudges before he actually mouthed and then one mouth before he actually picked up.

Next up? Putting it in my hand

Thanks again everyone for this thread!!!!


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## george1990 (Nov 24, 2008)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Great thread! I'm having trouble with Miko. He'll mouth it, but it's more for fun, as in he thinks I want him to play with it. So he'll lay down and start chewing on it with no focus on me once he gets into it.


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

*Re: We had pick-up*









Dante put the wallet in my hand, twice!!


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## BowWowMeow (May 7, 2007)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Very impressive, Dante! And Barb! 

I am going to print the instructions out and take them to the cottage with me. We'll see if Rafi gets it. He does comply if I ask him to bring me pink ball or a gorilla or tiger so hopefully he will get it with other non-toy objects too.


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Dante is so funny - He did just like people said and offered a sit, a down and a belly before the first real nose to it.

It's so hard not to laugh, he's obviously trying so hard and it's so dang cute!

What I'm not sure about now is do I put a command with it? If so do would I use something different for picking up different things?


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Yay! Dante's doing so well!

Some dogs go to the next step really fast - ones with natural retrieve instinct are often eager to grab up an item. My shepherds have all been natural retrievers and it was fairly easy to teach them a structured retrieve.

One of my chows, however, had ZERO retrieve instinct. She didn't play with toys, she didn't carry sticks .. as far as she was concerned, the only thing that went into her mouth was FOOD. I was never going to show her in advanced obedience, so we just took our time with the structured retrieve and it took TWO YEARS before she actually picked something up. I was ecstatic - you can imagine the party we had! *LOL* Now she'll grab up a dumbbell or other item, and even compete with the other dogs to get to it first. She'll never be a good retriever but she doesn't mind picking things up if it means she'll get a treat.

As far as the commands go .. I wait until a behavior is pretty well-established before I add in a command. I do this because it's easier to have a successful understanding on the part of the dog if the command ALWAYS goes with a successful behavior. If you use the command and they don't do the behavior (like when they're first figuring things out) then it takes longer for them to understand what the command goes with (as part of the time it's going with NOT doing the behavior).

I use a separate command for a structured retrieve than I do with casual retrieves/playtime. I do this because THIS is the retrieve that they should do regardless of whether they feel like it or not (eventually, of course). For my competition dogs, or my service dog, it's imperative that they understand that I mean "yes, you have to retrieve it NOW and later on we'll have cookies". So when I add in a command, I use a specific one ONLY used for this retrieve. My command is "take it". My casual, play command is "get it!" and sometimes I use "bring it" - but if I say "take it" they don't have a choice. "Take it" means go pick it up and come back to me and sit in front, waiting for me to remove it from the mouth. 

Now, if a dog is just now picking something up it's a bit early to put a command on it, I think. I would wait until they are consistently picking up an item or even going to an item to retrieve it (like if you set it on the floor six feet away and then they run to get it). You CAN use verbal cues to psych a dog up for this "game" - you can say things like "are you ready to retrieve?? Ready for the dumbbell? (or whatever your item is). Are you gonna GET IT?" Let the dog be enthusiastic and even jump around grabbing at it, but then go into the structured training.

One of the reasons I highly suggest sticking with a single item for the initial training is that the item becomes part of the cue and makes it easier for the dog to understand. If you mix up items during the initial training, the dog misses out on that additional cue. I find it easy to transfer to other items once the retrieve is really established, but if you confuse the dog that will always be a mistake in the long run. 

On the metal items: anything that your dog doesn't like to pick up should be avoided until the retrieve is solid. Then you can gradually go to other items. One of the ways I've taught my dogs to enjoy metal is that I have them retrieve their dishes and then immediately feed them in the dish. My young chow races over and grabs the metal bowls and runs to me with them because I reward her for every dish she brings me .. *L* .. she will retrieve every one she can find! And that's helped her with retrieving my keys, because the feel/sound of metal on her teeth doesn't bother her any more.

With small items, it helps if you add something to them so that they're easier to pick up. Remember, if you frustrate/confuse your dog during the training it can really set back your progression. I don't ask for my dogs to pick up tiny things until they really understand "take it". But now I can ask Khana for anything - yesterday she picked up the tiny little tab that fastens the plastic bag a loaf of bread is in (that flat little tab that goes around the twisted end of the plastic bag). It's amazing that she could even pick it up, but she did and handed it to me. That's a really advanced retrieve item, though! 

Once you go through all the steps and make sure your dog understands it all, and then you wean off the treats (to a certain extent - I still reward my dogs frequently and that makes us both happy), you may have to add in a bit of "do it because I said so" attitude. Some correction may be necessary .. an "eht!" if they don't pick it up, etc. But that's a long ways down the line - after they prove that they understand the retrieve and are just choosing not to do it. This is after you work the retrieve under all types of distractoins, too, unless you only want a retrieve in the quiet of your own home.

Good training always tries to make a dog understand, and then rewards for wanted behaviors until the dog develops a habit of doing that behavior. Good trainers have immeasurable patience, tolerance and a good sense of humor .. *L*

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## Ashley Martin (May 8, 2009)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Robin and I have been working on this all week, three or four times a day. We mix it in with other things he knows how to do. While he'll nose the wallet a million times (keep those treats coming! he says), it always ends with him laying down and putting his paws on top of the wallet. That's where we quit with the retrieving (we always end on a happy note, though, with him doing something he knows, like down stay). 

I'm not in any rush to get him to pick up things--we just started trying this a few days ago. But is it possible that he's not going to try any behavior beyond nosing/laying his paws on top of the wallet? I don't think the object is the problem, since he picked it up four times the first day.


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## TxRider (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: We had pick-up*

How about a dog that fetches, but won't bring an item back?

Mine seems to love me to throw toys, loves to go get it, but somehow she will not bring it to me no matter how I coax.

She stops at least several feet away, drops it usually, looks everywhere but at me for a bit, then looks at me as if she wants me to throw it again.

I'd like her to put it in my lap/hand and demand me to throw it again.

I can't figure out what's going on in her head. Dunno if she thinks I'll punish her her for giving it to me, or what? 

She is not playing keep away, I can go pick it up any time, she will tug with me now that I've got her playing tug but she won't bring me an item to tug.

She'll even go get her ball if I just say "go get your ball", find it, come back within about 10 feet tail wagging and drop it. Even if I'm backing up, or turn away and walk away calling her.

Any ideas on teaching her that the best way to get a tug or a toss is to come give it to me?


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Ashley, at the point that you're at with Robin, the wallet shouldn't be on the floor. You should be holding it and teaching him to look at it/nose it wherever you hold it (to the right of his face, left, below his chin, above his nose, and maybe close to the ground but not on the ground yet). I think you're just going a bit too fast. In all honesty, I expect to take a couple week of daily sessions to really make the initial behaviors solid - that means that at the end of a couple of weeks, we're still at the mouthing part and working on extending the amount of time the item is mouthed. I don't expect a dog to pick something up until well into the training - maybe a month or more. 

What I want is a dog that eagerly moves toward the item, and bumps it quickly or grabs at it quickly. I want enthusiasm and enjoyment, and if I had a dog that tended to get tired of the game quickly I would probably only do one or two tries per session and then I'd run to a drawer in a desk or the kitchen and make a big fuss out of putting the item away. Then next time, I'd run (with the dog) to the drawer and make a big fuss out of taking the item out, practice the behavior a couple of times, and put it into the drawer again. This helps build more excitement.

TxRider - what your dog is doing is very typical. Most dogs don't automatically bring an item all the way back to their owner until they learn to do it (either through actual training or by accidentally learning it because they find the owner will throw it again). 

One of the things that the structured retrieve (explained in this thread) helps do is teach the dog to bring an item all the way to you. Because you're training up close, even when you get to the point where the dog is picking up the item it will be delivered straight to your hand. And then eventually you start sending the dog a bit farther away for the item (a foot, then two, then three, etc.) and the dog learns to go get the item and bring it all the way to you. It's a back-chaining way of training: teach the end behavior first (the item in your hand) and then move toward the beginning (which will one day be actually throwing the item).

If you find the entire retrieve training a bit daunting at this point, you can try doing little short retrieves (just a few feet, maybe in a hallway so that you're tossing the ball toward the end of the hallway) and have a good supply of treats. Reward her for coming to you even if she doesn't bring the ball the entire way back at first, and then gradually only reward if she brings the ball. You can praise her the entire time she's carrying the ball, and stop praising when she drops it - this may help her understand that carrying the ball is the desired behavior. I wouldn't put in any sort of verbal "no" when she drops it - simply stop praising and do the behavior over. This might work for you, although the more structured retrieve is a better long-term solution.

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

*Re: We had pick-up*

A couple of reasons Dante may be going so fast on this is that for one he's an "old" man of 5 years old







and the other is that he's been retrieving balls, sticks, frisbees, whatever since I got him at 4 1/2 months old. 

The difference for him here is putting it in my hand and the fact that I'm not throwing it.


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## Caledon (Nov 10, 2008)

*Re: We had pick-up*

I"ve been working on this. Great instructions! Thanks for posting.

Dakota will bring me the object and put it in my hand. YEAH!

At first I didn't think she was going to get it, but I kept at it. Clicking for looking, clicking for touching, clicking for mouthing, clikcking for picking it up, clicking for putting it in my hand. I'm going to enforce this behaviour for a while and work on it in small segments before I move on to another object.

What I did notice that if I get clicker happy and click before she puts in it my hand she does drop it so I have to be very careful to click after she gives it to me.

Ever since I tried my clicker I have had great success in teaching her various tricks. Love it!


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Barb ... ahhh, Dante already retrieves, so he's just learning structure then. That does make a difference.

Mary, Dakota is doing great! And yes, timing is absolutely important. For those of you who are just learning about training, it takes time for your timing of the reward marker (the click or "YESS!") to be exact. Don't get frustrated if you're off a bit .. some have a more difficult time being exact and if you mark the wrong behavior (like say "YESS!" after the item is dropped, or before the dog actually touches it), then your dog will probably duplicate the behavior you actually marked instead of the behavior you MEANT to mark. Just work through it, it's no big deal. Your timing will get better.

Regardless of whether you use positive or compulsive methods, timing is really important. Poorly timed reward markers or poorly timed corrections tell the dog the wrong thing. The good part about using positives, however, is that a poorly timed reward marker won't create any frightened connotations for your dog. A poorly timed correction can.

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

*Re: We had pick-up*

I obviously went too fast with Dante, or too fast with me (meaning I was perhaps clicking at the wrong moment) as he started flipping the wallet in the air instead of putting it in my hand







so we're taking a few steps back.


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: We had pick-up*

*LOL* @ Barb! 

Aren't dogs fun? It will often seem like a dog understands something and then they'll modify it and you'll realize that they never truly understood it at all. I think that they guess a lot and when they guess the right thing a few times in a row we humans tend to go "WOW, look how SMART my dog is!!". I still fall for that at times and have to force myself to go slowly and build those basic steps.

By the way, if you reward that flipping of the wallet you may end up with a behavior you really don't want. Tazer did this when she first started bringing me the frisbee and I let her do it (thought it was cute back then .. *L*) and now she wants to flip the frisbee up into my face instead of holding it for me. Sometimes she does the "leap and throw" and ends up punching me in the belly with her big paws (I have the bruises to prove it). So I will NEVER reward that in another dog! *LOL*

Every dog is a new learning experience.

Melanie and the gang


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Melanie - Oh believe me, I am not rewarding the flipping







I have images in my mind of things flying all over my house!!!!

I do think though that I may have delayed a click - man you do sometimes have to be super quick - and that may have been where the flip came from - or of course it's just fun


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## george1990 (Nov 24, 2008)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Thanks guys. I was able to teach Miko to get the remote, using "Get it!" But, I don't know how I should modify it so I can use get it for things like his leash, my keys, etc. Right now, I'm just using "Get it" and he knows specifically for the remote. I have no idea on how I'm supposed to generalize the command. Do I say "Get the remote!" or eventually fade it to "Remote" and how do I go about the transitions. I'm having a hard time trying to articulate what I'm trying to say, hope you understand.


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: We had pick-up*

Glad to hear Miko is doing so well!

It's usually best to teach each object separately, and using whatever word you want to use. Assign a word to each object - like "remote", "keys", "leash" and then use that to specify what you want.

But first you need to work on each item. Start with the keys, maybe, and go through the training steps (look at the keys, touch the keys, mouth the keys, etc). It will probably go really quickly once Miko realizes it's the same game. But this time use the word "keys" with it. When you get to the point where he understands "keys" then go back and do all the beginning steps using the remote and the word "remote". Do this with each item you want him to understand. Try not to go through too many too fast, though .. you might want to teach him a couple and when he gets those down and can differentiate between them, you add a third.

When he gets confused - and he probably will at some point - and brings you the wrong item, just smile and say "thanks, but that's not it" and then repeat "get my KEYS" or whatever it is you wanted him to get. I wouldn't use any sort of correction, just no reward for not bringing what you want. He needs to work through understanding each item.

Personally I have found it easier to teach my dogs to follow my hand (pointing) or follow a lazer pointer that indicates what I want them to bring. With Khana, it may be my clothes or a book or a box of crackers or my keys or whatever .. too many things to teach individually. Yesterday she pulled an 8-pack of paper towels out of my van - they had slid in too far and I couldn't reach them. So I sent her for them. She did bring me something else first but I just smiled and told her "go get the other thing now" and she did and then she got her cookies.

Melanie and the gang in Alaska


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

How's everyone doing with their "bring me X" training?

I've been a bad trainer and haven't worked on it in a couple of days


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

Holy Cow, how did a whole week go by without my working on the wallet? Oh I know, I went back to work!

So I pulled out THE treats and the wallet tonight and got a pick up on the first try, got a 2nd pick up and then waited for it in my hand.







We got a in the hand and stopped.


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

You know, sometimes a break is a really good thing - it allows for latent learning, for the ideas to sink in and become more solid. 

I've been working (lazily .. *L*) on getting Tazer to give me the frisbee. She expects me to take it quickly and not to make her hold it very long, which is okay for frisbee work. I need to work separately on her holding and carrying items (and use a different command than the casual ones I use for frisbee playing). I see the frisbee as being more of an exercise for the dog than a training time, but I do expect Tazer to respond to a few things (like coming back with the frisbee, giving it to me if I ask for it, dropping it if I ask for that too).

Tazer is still so crazy energetic that it's hard to work on exercises that require control and thought .. *L* .. she wants MOVEMENT, not INTELLECT. I really hope she calms down as she ages. She just turned two.

Melanie and the gang


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

I asked Dante to open my jar of jam this morning but he said he couldn't without thumbs. I'd be frightened of what a GSD could do if they had thumbs.....


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

Hmmm, opening a jar of jam .. that's a dangerous undertaking, I think! *LOL* .. *imagining Tazer with an open jar of jam* .. oh my!!

I'm glad my dogs don't have thumbs. They wouldn't need ME!

Melanie and the gang


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## Barb E (Jun 6, 2004)

3 times in the hand but he was a little too excited about it








I did it before feeding him dinner - I think he was a bit too hungry and so really wanted those rewards!!


Anyone else still working on this?


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## IliamnasQuest (Aug 24, 2005)

I've been working on having Tazer bring me her food dish. She's doing well with handing me her frisbee now, although sometimes she's still a little over-exuberant and has to leap up and shove it at me .. *L*. She normally eats in her crate (by her choice - she took to running into her crate while I was preparing food, so I stuck her bowl in there) and the bowl sometimes gets shoved to the back, so I need her to bring it out. She's doing really well. We were practicing earlier - I crouched next to the open door of her kennel (she was inside) and would tell her "Get your dish!" and when she grabbed it and handed it to me I'd drop it back in the kennel with a treat inside. So her reward was in the bowl, which kept the focus there a bit more. 

She's so funny though - she likes to attack her bowl, so half the time when I say "get your dish!" she goes into attack mode, chases the bowl around the inside of the kennel (literally pushing it up the walls), and finally grabs it up and shoves it at me. Since I'm not using an "official" retrieve command I don't worry much about this. I like her enthusiasm! It makes me laugh. If I were doing a formal "TAKE IT" which meant "pick it up immediately and hold it for me" I would demand much more precision. But when I say "get it", that makes it relatively casual.

The other funny thing about this is that Khana gets a little irritated when I have Tazer bring her bowl - Khana is the appointed one who normally brings all the dishes to me and she WANTS to bring them (she's a cookie pig). So when another dog tries to bring a bowl, Khana will go over and attempt to steal it out of their mouths. It's not so bad in the kennel, but outside of the kennel there's a competition. Even when it's in the kennel, Khana hovers around hoping that she'll get a chance to earn those cookies!

Dogs are so darn fun .. *L*

Melanie and the gang


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## slaen (Apr 27, 2009)

*Re: We had pick-up*

This is great! I need to work on this with Kye. My girlfriend has Type 1 Diabetes. And sometimes her sugar goes really low and she can barely function. It would be great if Kye could bring her a juice box if she needed it.


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## DensterNY (Feb 1, 2010)

*Re: We had pick-up*

I just wanted to say that you guys are awesome... there is so much good information in this post and the advice and help is invaluable.

There is nothing in the world like real-world experience and advice from other owners.

Thanks again,

Dennie


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