# Puppy Essentials?



## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Since we will be getting our pup in a month and a half. We are starting to buy the essentials. So far we have bought some toys from the dollar store. We also bought tennis balls but after reading this site, I've realized they are bad. Anything we can get to replace that? We also bought two big stainless steel bowls with a grip at the bottom, and we have the crate. Is it ok to just use a blanket on the bottom? Bought some stain removed and a cheap leash and collar from the dollar store because she will be a pup. As she gets older what leash and collar would you recommend? What about shampoos and conditioners? And does that bitter apple stuff work? Any suggestions on brands or things we need would be great. We are in Ontario, Canada.


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## Tbarrios333 (May 31, 2009)

*I recommend books and reading lots and lots of puppy stuff and CLICKER training!!!! Control Unleashed and puppy books by Ian Dunbar. (Going to sneak Michael Ellis in here because I love his engagement training.)*


Doing potty training/mouthing research can help tons when your puppy gets home. You will be more prepared to handle the shark-like behavior and how to trouble shoot the potty training. Also Ian Dunbar will help you learn how to take advantage of the mouthing to teach bite inhibition.

Instead of the normal tennis balls, try to get the blue rubber ones. 
A blanket at the bottom of the crate is great because if she has an oops in there, it's easier to clean up. Make sure your crate has a divider so that you can make her space smaller during potty training.

As a puppy I would get her a harness. There's something about a pulling puppy getting yanked by the neck that bothers me. Both of my dogs wear harnesses and they don't pull any worse than dogs on prongs.

As they get older, many people like leather leashes that you can click onto itself to make it shorter for training. I forget what it's called, but I really want one! Also a fishing vest with a lot of pockets so that when you go out walking/socializing you can always have treats, a clicker, a tug, a ball whatever on you 

I use regular baby shampoo on my dogs, but I will probably switch to oatmeal which is even more gentle.

Also, research on food would be great.

Wow, serious deja vu just now.


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## spidermilk (Mar 18, 2010)

My dog's favorite toys:
1. Anything edible. Bully Sticks as a puppy, Kongs (with some kind of filling) and raw knuckle bones now.
2. Cuz Ball. Hands down his favorite toy and it can really take a beating.
3. Skineeez Stuffing Free Toys- Or some kind of fleece thing for tugging and chewing. Sometimes puppies like different textures (hard, soft, bumpy)to chew on when they are teething, plus the stuffing free or fleece are fun for tugging games too. My dog loves toys with stuffing, but they are destroyed in minutes. Other dogs are fine with stuffing.

I would just use a blanket for the crate at least for now. It is easy to wash (even if your puppy is great at getting housetrained he will still get muddy), and there is no stuffing to tear out- hopefully that makes it less tempting to destroy but no guarantees there.

Stain remover, paper towels, earplugs if you are sensitive to whining, bandaids for your soon to be destroyed arms and legs, and patience.


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## Stosh (Jun 26, 2010)

That cracked me up! I was just going through the checklist too! Do everything she just said, stay away from rawhide, toys and treats made in China. You're better off investing in some decent well made tugs/toys that will last. Get a Kong to fill with pnut butter and some bully sticks from bestbullysticks.com. When your pup comes home, have him/her sleep in the crate next to your bed with a stuffed toy it can lean against like a littermate, and a tshirt you've worn. Out breeder sent home a small towel that the litter had slept on so Stosh would have their scent and it worked great. Stock up on band aids and get some sleep while you can!


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Thanks so much for that info. I've read up and watched a lot of clicker training videos but it relies on treats a lot, and I really would love to train her without treats, because when I am out I don't want the dog to listen just because I have treats. On top of that with two young kids as it is I'm sure I will forget to bring treats here and there lol. Will order that book now. I've been researching the raw food and really trying to understand it. As it's somewhat confusing to me. Not really understanding how much percent of what to give the dog and where to even start. I believe the breeder has the pups on Eukanuba Large breed puppy food. So I'm not even sure where to begin in moving the dog from that food to raw. Still need to research that more. Going to pick up a harness tomorrow.


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

spidermilk said:


> My dog's favorite toys:
> 1. Anything edible. Bully Sticks as a puppy, Kongs (with some kind of filling) and raw knuckle bones now.
> 2. Cuz Ball. Hands down his favorite toy and it can really take a beating.
> 3. Skineeez Stuffing Free Toys- Or some kind of fleece thing for tugging and chewing. Sometimes puppies like different textures (hard, soft, bumpy)to chew on when they are teething, plus the stuffing free or fleece are fun for tugging games too. My dog loves toys with stuffing, but they are destroyed in minutes. Other dogs are fine with stuffing.
> ...


Thanks....What do you put in the Kongs? I've heard peanut butter, but my son has a deadly allergy to nuts. Anything else I can put?


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Stosh said:


> That cracked me up! I was just going through the checklist too! Do everything she just said, stay away from rawhide, toys and treats made in China. You're better off investing in some decent well made tugs/toys that will last. Get a Kong to fill with pnut butter and some bully sticks from bestbullysticks.com. When your pup comes home, have him/her sleep in the crate next to your bed with a stuffed toy it can lean against like a littermate, and a tshirt you've worn. Out breeder sent home a small towel that the litter had slept on so Stosh would have their scent and it worked great. Stock up on band aids and get some sleep while you can!


Are they really that bad at night lol? I feel like I'm getting another newborn lol....This will be fun, especially with my 19 month old who still likes to interupt my sleep :S


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## Mandalyn (Jul 12, 2011)

Neither of mine have been bad at night (whining wise) as long as they have been in the room with me for bedtime  As far as going potty, now they only wake me up once each during the night (they are 4 mths now) and go right back to sleep, but those first few weeks are trying when you are tired LOL


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## spidermilk (Mar 18, 2010)

GSD84 said:


> Thanks....What do you put in the Kongs? I've heard peanut butter, but my son has a deadly allergy to nuts. Anything else I can put?


You can try different things and see what your dog likes. Sometimes you might have to make things easier to get out (especially at first), but when your dog gets a little better at getting things out you can wedge stuff in there to make it harder.

Plain yogurt (fat free, no sugar added)
Fruit (bananas, strawberries, you can combine these with yogurt and freeze it solid)
Wet Dog Food
Dog Kibble (you can put the kibble in and then wedge a biscuit or something in the end to hold it in)
Real meat or cheese (hot dogs, chicken, lunch meat, any cheese- I like to use a tiny bite of meat or cheese at the very bottom of the kong and fill it with something healthier like yogurt)
Canned Pumpkin

Also, some puppies whine a lot at night, others may hardly whine at all. They do have to potty at night, so if they were sleeping, then wake up and whine they probably need to go outside. Most people set an alarm for a few different times at night, take the puppy out, reward for potty, and then just go right back in and back to sleep.


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Thanks Spidermilk! Very helpful suggestions as I didn't even know dogs could eat half that stuff. Definately better than PB. Writing all this down


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

all your puppy needs is good training and socializing.
when it comes to toys and stuff i wouldn't buy them
from the dollar store. i would buy high grade toys from
a pet store or on line.


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

We have a trainer in mind. She is quite pricey, but she doesn't rely on treats, which is what we wanted. I figure it may cost a pretty penny, but in the end it will be worth it. I'm going to check out those Kong toys tomorrow


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## neiltus (Mar 10, 2011)

I would like to know how you will be training a puppy without treats.


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## Tbarrios333 (May 31, 2009)

If you find a trainer that doesn't work with treats, they are most likely compulsion trainers and are no good.

Treats are beneficial because it keeps the training positive and there is only a very small percentage of dogs that will work for praise alone. For most, praise is not enough and any trainer that spouts that nonsense is dumb. Anyone can call themselves a trainer; you have to research their methods and make sure they are positive/motivational trainers. 

Toys are not enough of a reward for most pups because they are highly focused on food. Also, before you can reward with toys, you have to teach the dog how to play with the toys so that what you just taught them actually means something.
Rewarding a puppy with a tug session is useless if they don't want to play or don't know how to Out.

My guess is that if you go this route, you will have a very unhappy puppy. Often, these kinds of trainers are not very knowledgeable of the psychological damage they are doing to the pup through compulsion and your bond. 

Stick with what works best for inexperienced puppy owners: clickers and treats. Even if you're not inexperienced, clickers and treats help puppies thrive.


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Tbarrios333 said:


> If you find a trainer that doesn't work with treats, they are most likely compulsion trainers and are no good.
> 
> Treats are beneficial because it keeps the training positive and there is only a very small percentage of dogs that will work for praise alone. For most, praise is not enough and any trainer that spouts that nonsense is dumb. Anyone can call themselves a trainer; you have to research their methods and make sure they are positive/motivational trainers.
> 
> ...


Really? I've always thought that having treats can backfire, because as the pups get older and the days you know longer have a treat on you they just won't listen since there is nothing to get as a reward. I am extremely inexperienced when it comes to training. This trainer is 300 bucks for 5 weeks and she comes to my house once a week for about an hour and a half. She said some days she could be there for 2. The other trainer I was looking at is 120 for 4 weeks and she also comes to your house. She uses treats. This is the page of both trainers. The first one is the one that doesn't use treats:
K9 Balance, Barrie dog trainer, fixing dog behaviour issues and this is the cheaper option Canine Concepts


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## Mom2Shaman (Jun 17, 2011)

If you use treats at first all the time, then you start missing here and there, they will still perform. In fact, if you do it EVERY time then stop completely, they will quit with the response. However, You can work down to once every other time, every third, etc. Make it totally random if there is a treat for a behavior once it has been learned. The key is they never really know if the treat will be there or not. Like playing the slots. Any pull could be the payoff. It's a psychological thing. Works for any species and any behavior. It's the element of chance.


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Thanks! Makes sense. Kinda like my kids lol. What type of treats do you prefer to use? You must go through quite a bit.


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## Ruthie (Aug 25, 2009)

GSD84 said:


> Really? I've always thought that having treats can backfire, because as the pups get older and the days you know longer have a treat on you they just won't listen since there is nothing to get as a reward.


This is a common misconception. Treats help your dog understand what you are trying to communicate. Once they understand, they will do the commands without the treats. I think the clicker is fantastic, but it is not always practical for me. Using your voice as a marker works well too.

You asked about shampoo, I pick up the pet store kind for puppies. It is mild and it smells nice. 

The bitter spray worked for ours, but I have read other posts where people said that their dogs actually like it. LOL!

Cuz balls are great if the sound doesn't drive you insane. All three of my GSD boys have loved them.

I don't do blankets in the crate. It gives the puppy a place to pee without it getting on them and some puppies will shred at best and eat at worst.

Here is my list of must haves for a puppy.

*Food container- *You want something that seals. It is amazing how quickly a puppy can gobble down food when they rip a dog food bag open.
*Tag with your phone number and street address*- You mentioned that you have a collar and leash already.
*Small toy box*
*Toys to chew*- The dollar store ones are ok, but most of the time they are stuffies. Puppies can very quickly disembowel a stuffed animal and eat the stuffing which can cause a bowel obstruction. Ropes and rubber chew toys are great. Your puppy will most likely be biting everything and you will need toys handy for redirecting the bites.
*Treat bag- *I like one that I can fasten around my waist so I can keep it with me while I walk around the house because for the first few weeks, I call the puppy at random times and he gets a treat EVERY time.
*Flash light and umbrella*- You will be taking the puppy out in the middle of the night in all kinds of weather
*Enzyme Spray*- This is a spray that neutralizes odors of urine, feces, and vomit. This is great for cleaning crates and helping to deter future "accidents" because they smell the previous one. It is also safer than using something like Lysol. There are many different brands and they are available at most pet stores.
*Hydrogen Peroxide and a baster or syringe*- If your puppy eats something that he that can harm them, give them one tablespoon and it will make them vomit.
*List of important numbers*- Your vet, closest 24 hour vet hospital, poison control. You don't want to have to find them in a crisis. (Sounds paranoid, but I watch my puppy like a hawk and I have had to call poison control twice.)
Good luck with your puppy!


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

Thanks Ruthie, didn't even think of half those things


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## Ruthie (Aug 25, 2009)

GSD84 said:


> Thanks Ruthie, didn't even think of half those things


Glad I could help. Grizzly is 17 weeks, so I got puppy on the brain. I watch him very closely, and I have still had to use the peroxide and call poison control twice.

I forgot, I was also going to recommend some treats too. Zukes and Biljak each make a really tiny chewy treat that is fantastic for puppies. I use Zukes mostly, but Grizzly got a whiff of someone's Biljak in obedience class this week as we were walking out and did a perfect "front" and stared them down hoping to get one. I think he would have gone home with her. Of course since my dogs are incredibly spoiled, I stopped on the way home and bought him a bag.

Zukes also makes a chew bone that my boys LOVE. They crumble into smaller pieces, so I don't let them eat them when I am not around (in case they choke), but they are awesome to give them if you want them to have some quiet time that isn't in the crate. Bison, who is 5, takes out the medium size in about 15 minutes and Grizzy takes out a small one between 15 and 30 minutes. Nice for a long phone conversation or during dinner.

I also keep a bag of small organic blueberry shortbread for dogs next to the crate. They are easy for little puppy teeth to chew. Grizzly gets one EVERY time he goes in the crate. Now, if I just stick my hand in the bag, he comes running and dives in his crate.


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## GSD84 (Apr 27, 2011)

too cute! hopefully they sell that brand here. I'm in Canada


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## neiltus (Mar 10, 2011)

Excellent post ruthie.

I would encourage crate training. Search for crate training threads.

Compulsion training has it's place. Not with puppies. and not with a majority of dogs in general. I would avoid like the plague any trainer who uses anything other than treats/marker training on a pup. You want a dog that will trust you and love you. Crank and yank, compulsion, etc will not get you there.

I know a ton of great dogs, police, sch, service, drug, etc and MOST excluding maybe 2 that I can think of were trained via marker/treat method. Why does this work, well because all pups understand "WILL WORK FOR FOOD", but they might not understand "will work or else". Food drive exists in all living animals, whereas think of a boss you worked with...do you work better when there is support, praise, encouragement, kindness or do you work better when you feel you don't have an option?

Save the money on the trainer and go with the 120...but, I am going to go out on a limb and tell you to go to a group puppy class first (not in house). Why...social skills. Ever seen a GSD that barks at every other dog around them? You need to get your pup used to being around people and other dogs at an early age. I would opt for this class first then maybe after about 6 weeks of that opt for the private at home classes (when the weather where you are gets bad...ha)...that way you can polish and advance on what you learned in puppy with some more one on one work!


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## Ruthie (Aug 25, 2009)

GSD84 said:


> too cute! hopefully they sell that brand here. I'm in Canada


If not, they are available online. Here are some links

Zukes for Dogs - Hip Action, Mini Naturals, Z-Ridge Bones, Jerky Naturals, Power Bones, Z-Filets The mini naturals are the training treats I use and the Z-ridge are the larger bones

Grandma Lucy's :: Organic Blueberry - These are the blueberry bears I use for crate treats, but I get them at a feed store and they are only $4.99. I ended up buying them the first time because they guys at the register said that they ate them and they were really good. 

Bil-Jac : Best Tasting Dog Food that's Nutritious Too- The ones he liked was the Little Jack (Relized that I spelled Bil-jac wrong earlier, sorry)


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