# New owner of 6.5 wk old puppy - need help



## Jacket (Nov 30, 2008)

I got a 6.5 wk old puppy. He is 7 wks old as of today. He was the last dog in the litter. I went and bought a kennel, treats, collar, leash, pee pads and a chew toy yesterday at petsmart. The lady told me that you normally shouldnt take a puppy until he is 8 wks old. I guess that is my fought for not doing the research ahead of time. I want to train the dog properly. I plan on taking him to weekly training sessions at petsmart when he is ten weeks olds. I have a few questions. 

1. I am trying to potty train him.Am I wasting my time trying to train him right now? Is he too youg to understand? What is the proper age for training? 
2. Besides potty training, what things can I do at this age?
3. He likes to chew on my wife and mine fingers/toes. I tell him "no chew" and give him his chew toy. Is that the best technique?

Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated!! 

oh yeah, his name is "Jacket"


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## Liesje (Mar 4, 2007)

The petsmart employee is right, in many places it's illegal to sell dogs younger than 8 weeks. Socialization will be crucial for your puppy, MUCH moreso than potty training or basic obedience training. He will be missing out on some things pups learn from their siblings before they are 8 weeks. I would take him a new place every day. If it's a dog place like a pet store, just be sure to carry him until he has his second round of shots.

1. No, when I went to visit my puppy at 4 weeks the breeder said she was starting to potty train. Take him out VERY often. My Nikon had to go out every 10 minutes even at 8-10 weeks old, if he was awake and moving. Praise him and give him a treat for going potty.

2. I guess what I said above. Socialization is the most important thing right now. I'm not nearly as concerned with potty training as some people are. Like kids, dogs progress at different rates. I'm not ashamed to admit Nikon was having multiple accidents in the house per day as recent as last week. Like I said I take him out very often but accidents happen. My main concern is socialization. I make arrangements with other dog owners, or take him to pet stores several times a week.

3. Yes. The best technique is "trading" for something appropriate rather than trying to correct the dog. I say "no bite!" and hold still b/c sometimes people pull their hands away and make the dog bite more since the hand looks like prey. Then I give him something else and encourage him to chew it.

That's a really cool name.


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## JeanKBBMMMAAN (May 11, 2005)

I fostered a very young puppy once. 

I worked on what housetraining we could do-at 7 weeks, it is hard for a lot of them to make the connections, but my foster puppy did pretty well for a little guy! In the am I would carry him out the door because he couldn't make the bedroom to door walk without piddling, but really he did try and I figure that was better than not trying! So I did what I could with him. 

With that puppy I worked on everything, really, but just in a totally fun and silly way. Sits and downs and walking on different surfaces in and out of the house with treats and praise, and no negatives if he couldn't do it-nothing to freak him out-everything slow and easy. Just showing him that being a puppy is a great thing is what I like to do. I also like to teach puppies to follow a spoon around in pre-leash walking. The spoon can have a little peanut butter if it doesn't make him sick, or a bit of canned food. 

THAT is the best technique! There is a post called Bite Inhibition in the puppy section (it tends to go off on some negative tips-ignore those







) and that is one of the things that people agree work. 

My advice is to take it slow and keep it positive and take TONS of pictures because they grow so fast. Enjoy the baby stage it is over too soon. 

Just read Liesje's post and want to stress carrying the puppy and finding a good vet you trust. Too many puppies have been lost to parvo on this board and it's rough. You could find people who have vaccinated, well behaved, puppy loving healthy pets for him to play with. Socializing with people will be a regular part of any puppy's life regardless of the age you get them, but socializing with balanced dogs will help with the bite inhibition and dog manners.









Welcome to you and Jacket!


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

Welcome to you and Jacket(love his nameyou found the right site to read about all things GSD! We love pics here, there is a how-to on the pictures thread at the beginning of it. I got my pup at 7 weeks too, and socializing is the most important thing, getting use to different sounds, smells, other dogs(careful till all vaccs. are done on the dog one)age of people is crucial. Kids, babies and older people all smell different and it is good to get a pup use to all. Take your pup wherever you can that is safe and positive.
Are there other training places than Petsmart in your area? I would research that while you have a few weeks to wait. I agree with both above posts, lotsa pics, and socializing, keep everything fun, fun, fun. 
ON the housebreaking: take him to the same spot everytime outside, don't play at this time, praise the heck out of him when he goes, and always take him out shortly after a meal. When you see him circle, sniff, outside we go. Don't reprimand if he has an accident, just say outside potty(or whatever works for you) and take him to his spot. Be consistant, it is for training as well. Make sure all family members use the same familiar words for commands, and everyone should be on the same page. Good luck!


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## RebelGSD (Mar 20, 2008)

I would not take a 7 week-old puppy to public places frequented by many dogs until he has the full sequence of shots. I single set of shots does not give him sufficient protection from contagious diseases like parvo. Socialization is important, but before the puppy is fully protected by vaccines, you may be risking its health and even his life.


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## Kayos and Havoc (Oct 17, 2002)

Love his name and welcome to you!

Yep 6.5 weeks is a bit early to come home but you have him now so must be mom for him. Between 5 and 8 weeks pups learn to inhibit their bite so as they grow up they do not break skin. That is now your job. If Jacket puts his mouth on you yelp like a hurt pup and walk away. EVERY time!

He also learns to speak dog and get along with other dogs now so as soon as he has a set of shots I would start puppy class.

House training just takes consistency and a good schedule. 

Good luck with baby Jacket and we need pictures!!!!!!


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

how did you get your dog so young? no, it's not so much your fault 
that you got a puppy so young. i blame the breeder. yes, you could have done some research but don't worry about that now. you found the right place for all your questions and answers. there's lots of books out there to read as well as videos to watch.

1. no, you're not wasting your time or the pups time by training him early. it might take what seems like a longer time for him to learn because he's so young. i would think you can start house training and getting him use to his name at this age. take it slow.

2. at 6.5 weeks i would work on house training him. i would also use his name alot. to house train him i would take him outside every 15 minutes or so. then i would gradually increase his time to every 1/2 hour, to every 45 minutes and so on. over night, well i'm not sure. i took my puppy out every two hours over night. again i gradually increased the time. within 11 days my puppy was house broken. he had 10 accidents within those 11 days. all of the accidents were our fault. we waited to long to take him out or we didn't read his signs correctly. 

3. the mouthing your puppy is doing now is the mouthing he would have done on his litter mates and his mother. they would have taught each other the limits. the mouthing/nipping thing might last for awhile. i taught my dog not to nip by gently holding some neck fur and saying "no biting". then i would rub his mouth or head. if he nipped again (which he usually did) i just repeated the same maneuver. if he didn't nip i would say "good boy". it was always lots of praise and sometimes a treat. i have a mouthy dog. if i'm petting his head he'll reach up and put my hand in his mouth. there's no pressure applied. he just opens his mouth and what ever he can put his mouth on or lick he does.

when it comes to treats and toys we don't use anything from China. there's to many recalls. my GF actually makes there dog biscuits/treats. they're all natural with no corn, wheat or soy.

make sure your puppy has the proper shots before going to classes. i would keep my 6.5 old puppy close to home untill he had his second round of shots. 

my dog was in puppy classes at 10 weeks old. we were constantly socializing him. i use hang out in front of the super with my puppy. there's lots of people of all shapes, shades, size and age coming in and out of the super market. it's good place for training and socializing. we didn't start any formal training with my dog untill he was 4 months old. he was house broken and knew his name. his indoor manners were pretty good. i always start my dogs training with a trainer and private lessons. once they learn some things we can go to group. i also like training at the dog park. at the dog park my dog plays with the other dogs and we train. having the other dogs around is a good distraction.

good luck with Jacket. Jacket, that's a nice name.


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## Jake's Mom (Nov 27, 2008)

We brought home a very young (6 weeks) puppy on Friday. 

We've managed to avoid any potty/poo accidents. It has taken constant watching and going out every hour during the day and every two hours at night. I know eventually we're bound to have one, but so far so good.

Bite inhibition is the hardest part with one this young. I am following the advise from some on the thread that was mentioned. We yelp, substitute or walk away. Basically we have our whole family trying to think like a litter mate.


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

Welcome to the site!









Cute name 'Jacket'. 

Remembering that puppies are teeny babies will help with our patience and training. It's amazing how much they can learn early off. But also how short their attention spans are, and how quickly they seem to forget.

With the entire world being a chew toy (human and all), teaching them the toys they CAN chew on is important. There's a place in the puppy section here call 'Bite Inhibition' you should read. Cause if you think the using you as a chew toy is bad now, chances are you have alot more to come!!! There are alot of management ways to help be prepared.

While you can start the housebreaking, it takes weeks and weeks (months?) for most of us. They really CAN'T hold it that long initially. Along with the fact they have to learn what we want. When you say you bought a 'kennel' does that mean a crate? Cause if you use that to help with the housebreaking (crate training) then it helps alot.

Here are some sites to help with that:

http://www.training-dogs.com/crate-training.html

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

http://petcare.suite101.com/article.cfm/crate_training_your_new_puppy

These are the best 'I have a new puppy' sites!

http://home.flash.net/~astroman/primer1.html

http://www.vanerp.net/ilse/GSDINFO/understandyourpuppy.htm

http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/DevelopmentalStages.html


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

Another good puppy socialization site..

http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

again, why did you get a puppy at 6 weeks old? i don't think getting a puppy at that age is goodfor the pup. i do beleive it can work out. your house training schedule is the same as mine. my pupwas house broken within 11 days. he went in the house 10 times within 11 days. we never used paper or training pads. i thought i was on top of his house breaking but he still managed to get in a few mistakes. 

you're doing good with your pup. you haven't had a mistake yet. that's impressive considering you have a 6 week old pup. i'm putting my money on the pup. he's going to get a few in the house. let me know when he has his first mistake. i wonder how many people have a puppy and they never go in the house????


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## Maryn (Feb 15, 2008)

While yes, it is better to get a pup older, it isn't the end of the world. I fostered a pitt/boxer pup from 6 to 12 weeks of age, and brought my male GSD pup home at 6 weeks as well.

It is more work. There are more accidents. It does feel like you've been trying to potty train them for years by the time pup is 11 weeks old and doesn't quite have it down pat yet.

You will go through a slightly worse 'land shark' phase than you would with a pup who was with his littermates longer. Jacket is going to love biting hands, feet, pant legs, socks, and it's going to hurt.

Do not physically restrain or reprimand the pup. It only serves to get them even more wound up about it. I always redirect. When they go for your appendages or clothes, offer a toy that pup will enjoy biting and thrashing. This does mean keeping one on you constantly.

Yelping doesn't discourage all pups from biting. Some pups are a bit more assertive/dominant and actually see it as a sign of weakness that they can take advantage of. 

If you use the crate, make sure there is only enough room for him to lay down and turn around comfortably. There should not be enough space for him to pee/poop in one area, and sleep in another.

Do NOT use pee pads. House breaking is teaching the pup that is not acceptable to go in the house. Using pee pads totally throws that out the window. And how would a pup know the difference between a pee pad and a shirt, magazine, or other paper/clothing item left on the floor? It wouldn't, and won't. The pup will begin to think it's ok to relieve itself on any comparable item on the floor in the house. 

Ignore accidents in the house, take the pup outside every 20 minutes and praise like **** when he goes out there. When you go outside, you become the most uninteresting thing, a statue. It isn't playtime. Ignore pup until he goes, then you re-animate and praise and have a little celebration.

Good luck with the pup!!!!

Also, please do not think about walking him, taking him to the park, pet store or anywhere around other dogs until he's had all of his shots.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I agree it isn't the end of the world and it is done, so lets get beyond the pup's age. Puppies can only be expected to maintain control for a short period. 

What you need to do is adhere to a strict schedule. 

When you get up, put on your slippers and take him out of his crate to potty. It may take a while but do not go to the bathroom yourself first. 

If he pees and poos then you can give him 1/2 hour of grace time before you are vigilent. This is time you can clean his crate if he did not make it through the night. Take him to the bathroom with you, and you can then feed him. 

Food starts the engines going, so almost immediatly after the kibble goes in, the pup needs to go out yet again. After he eliminates -- by the way praise every thing he does OUTSIDE. Use the word "outside" in your praise: "Oh, what a good puppy, he went poopie OUTSIDE, with positive emphasis on the "outside." 

After he is comes in, you can relax for a half an hour and then be vigilent, watching constantly for the sniffing-circling-squatting behaviors. If this happens, "Eh, eh, Outside to Pee Pee" as you scoop him up in one fluid motion and place him gently on the ground outside. Then praise whatever he happens to provide you with outside. 

Direclty after sleep, meals, and play your puppy needs to relieve himself. 

If you want to make it easier for your pup to make it through the night feed him at six, shut off the faucet at seven, take him out a last time at eleven or twelve, and then crate him for the night. As soon as you wake up, carry him outside to potty. 

It is not real hard, it takes a couple of days to get the idea planted and a few more days before he will likely head for the door himself or whine. If you ring a bell with a long string attached on the door everytime you go out to potty, you may be surprised to hear your bell going one day, and find your puppy telling you what he needs to do. 

Good luck.


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## Jake's Mom (Nov 27, 2008)

Sue's schedule is almost exactly how we've been keeping Jake from having accidents in the house. Jake can go one hour between trips during the day, but sometimes we see behavior that indicates he needs to go sooner. One of those behaviors seems to be an increasing mouthiness and whining. So out we go. We actually went 2 1/2 hours between potty trips last night. 

And DoggieDad, we finally had our first accident about 7 pm last night. I was pulling on my boots and he peed right on the floor in front of the door. Argghh! At least it was on tile and not the hardwood floors! I just wasn't fast enough that time.


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## 3K9Mom (Jun 12, 2006)

Jake's Mom and Sue's schedules are exactly right. I brought home Camper at 7 weeks, followed the schedule of taking him out IMMEDIATELY after he 
1. ate
2. drank
3. napped (that's an important one)
4. played (also important)

Camper had 3 accidents in the house. One the first day, because I didn't realize how fast he was. The other two were Dh's fault because I said, don't forget to take him out immediately after he wakes up. "Immediately" to Dh meant within a few minutes. LOL. He ran our 'streaming' puppy to the door twice. He cleaned up the mess, and he learned that immediately meant "right now. From the crate to the door. Do not pass go, do not put on a jacket. Do not collect $200."

My GSD never had another accident in our house after that first week. He came home at 7 weeks on a Sunday. Monday night, he was in puppy class with other vaccinated vet-checked puppies. We trained him on potty bells when he was 9 weeks old. He learned to ring bells to let us know when he needed to go out, and he does to this day. 

That 1/2 week between your pup and mine does make a difference, but it's not the end of the world. You'll just need to be patient, vigilant, and Jacket will do great. There is no reason to wait for puppy classes, or training either. Start fun training now. 

My current puppy (she came home at 8.5 weeks) knew all sorts of tricks after her first week, as well as sit and down. She was in puppy class her first week as well. And when we finished that, there was no basic obedience class on the schedule, so I signed her up for a puppy class at another school. Different environment, different people, different dogs. Great socialization and learning! 

It's not about what you can ask your dog to do. When you teach your pup something, you're building a relationship and trust. I ask you do to something. You do it. I give you something you want in return. For a food and toy motivated pup, that goes a long way toward building trust. Make it fun, and he'll learn to LOVE being around you and learning new stuff all the time! 

Also, you're teaching your pup's brain HOW to learn. You'll literally helping to wire his brain and form strong "hardware" connections. This is something that will last the rest of his life. 

One more thing to remember -- it's easier to train good new behaviors than break bad ones. So try to prevent accidents in the house (and especially in his crate). Give Jacket plenty of stimulation and toys to play with. Provide him a lot of safe chews. 

And don't give him more freedom in the house than he can manage, which at this age, means, you or a responsible adult should be with him -- ready to whisk him outside -- at all times, and to keep him from hurting himself. Or he should be in his crate. No wandering around the house. He's too young. He needs to earn his freedom. Set him up for success. When we give our pups more freedom than they can handle, we're only giving them enough rope to hang themselves. 

For the next several weeks, you'll likely want to scream (or cry, or both) numerous times. But keep your patience and your fortitude. Every bad thing that does not happen is a bad habit you don't have to break later. Consistency. Consistency. Consistency. 

And puppy classes at the best, most reputable training facility you can afford. A good puppy trainer will guide you. And other puppy owners are so wonderful. It's nice to know you're all going through the same stuff at the same time. It's not just you, or your puppy. It's everyone and all puppies. We can tell you that. But when you see other owners and their arms are scratched up worse than yours by their _golden retriever_ pup, (yup, it happens) you'll feel really good about Jacket and yourself.


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## RubyTuesday (Jan 20, 2008)

I've known some people whose pups never had a potty accident inside, however that had more to do with the hyper diligence of the human's than the dogs, IMO.

My daughter got a 5-5.5wk old Chow/Shepherd(?) mix last year despite my pleas that she seek out an appropriately aged & well bred dog. The creeps that had the litter told her (& presumably others) that they were going to kill any they didn't get homes for IMMEDIATELY.

Her pup has got some issues, & will always require extra patience & sensitivity, but my daughter believes absolutely that pets are a lifetime commitment. She's determined that she & Nala will succeed. Given my girl's love, resolve & grit, I'm certain they will.

You also seem prepared & determined to do right by your canine 'preemie'. It won't always be easy, but you've got the heart & are developing the skills to succeed. I'm betting that's gonna be one very happy, very lucky pup.


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## Jacket (Nov 30, 2008)

Thanks for all the advice and compliments on the name choice. Also, my signature now includes a photo of my wife and Jacket taken over the weekend. A lot of what you all have said sounds real familiar right now. 

1. The potty training is going well, I think. I am using a crate/kennel. *Fingers crossed*
2. I have started a schedule with him. I get up in the morning and take him out to "poopy", my cue word. I then let him play with my other dog, a 4 yr old american bulldog / beagle mix (name Wreck). He then comes inside until I get home for lunch. He "poopy"s and then plays with Wreck. He comes back inside until I get home. When I get home around 5pm, he again "poopy"s and plays with Wreck for most of the night. At 10:30, I bring him in to go asleep. I feed him once in the morning and once when I get home.
3. I am getting him out in the neighborhood to socialize. I think the other dog helps that. I also have a neighbor that My current dog plays with on occasion. I think we will continue this with Jacket based on what some of you have said. 
4. I have bought a book/dvd to help me start the training. The pet smart is the closest place to where I live and that is an hour away. I live in rural Georgia. 

Couple of more questions:
1. He whines a lot when I put him in the kennel. I assume that will go away once he realizes nobody is going to come when he whines.
Am I right? 
2. I have a pool. I do not want him to ever get in the pool. My other dog hates the water. Any suggestions?


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

> Originally Posted By: JacketAlso, my signature now includes a photo of my wife and Jacket taken over the weekend.


Great pic, but unfortunately board rules don't allow pictures in signatures. You could crop it square and shrink it down to use as an avatar pic though.


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## WiscTiger (Sep 25, 2002)

OK, I see you have a schedule and playing with wreck which is OK, but you need to be playing with the puppy more than the puppy plays with Wreck. You want the puppy to bond and look to you as leader and not Wreck.


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## Fodder (Oct 21, 2007)

also... even tho you don't want Jacket in the pool - unless you fence the pool (or the area leading to the poop) for safety reasons, i suggest you take him in a few times and guide him to where the steps are. i can't tell by your description if their playtime outside is supervised or not, but unsupervised puppies and pools are not a good mix.

i just wanted to add that safety tip -- other than that i dont really have any suggestions on training him not to go in the pool. i've always encouraged my dogs to come in the pool so i'm not sure what they'd do naturally. gia's first time was when her tennis ball fell in and she went in after it. tilden went in after being coaxed by gia and i.

my cousin has a gsd who has no interest what so ever in water, however if the kids are swimming in the pool he has to be crated in the house because he goes insane trying to "rescue" them.

pups will generally follow what the older dog is doing - so if Wreck doesnt like the water, your pup may not take interest to the pool.


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## Maryn (Feb 15, 2008)

"I am getting him out in the neighborhood to socialize"

BIG no-no!!!! Do not take him ANYWHERE other dogs have been. Do not walk him yet, no parks on grass, etc. Keep him at home until all puppy shots (likely 3 sets) are completed. There are a handful of contagious illnesses he can catch, one of which is parvo and a horrible thing to go through.


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## 3K9Mom (Jun 12, 2006)

I vigorously disagree. 

There are safe places you can take a young pup. You can't take him anywhere a lot of dogs congregate. No dog parks. No beaches. No local parks where all the neighborhood dogs go to play. No Petco or Petsmart. (and for me, no holistic pet shop where many of the customers don't believe in vaccines at all). 

But there are plenty of safe places to take a puppy. Outside malls that are mostly concrete. (Don't let him go into planters where other dogs are likely to relieve themselves) The quiet little park that nearly no one goes to. Sitting on the steps outside the library where he can meet children, adults, elderly citizens as they approach (you simply say "no" to anyone who approaches with another dog, even when they assure you their dog is current on his shots.) Visiting friends and family that you know have fully vaccinated dogs. Puppy classes that require vet checks, fecals, and vaccines.

By the time your pup gets his 3 set of shots, he'll be 12-16 weeks. You will have lost valuable time, and you'll have lost an opportunity you can never get back.



> Quote:
> 
> What makes socializing so important? Young puppies are hardwired to learn about the world, and what they learn from the ages of five to sixteen weeks will form their decisions for the rest of their lives. Animals can respond to change with fear, especially if they haven’t had previous exposure to new things. Introducing your puppy to different people, places and pets at the critical age of five to sixteen weeks helps build the foundation for a calmer and more tolerant dog.
> 
> ...


http://www.eastbayspca.org/petownership/PuppyInsert.pdf

Every trainer that I work with feels strongly about this. Speak to your vet. Most vets feel that maternal protection from disease protects the puppy at the beginning. We HAVE to be very careful, yes. We can't be reckless. We have to make wise choices about where we take our puppies.

But we can't keep them at home during their first 16 weeks. We can take our pups out, and let them explore the world safely. 

And yes, I adopted a pup from an animal shelter who had parvo and distemper. I know EXACTLY how dangerous these diseases are. But I know that dogs who aren't well socialized often are just as dangerous to themselves and others. We need to weigh the risks and make wise decisions. We can do both.


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## Maryn (Feb 15, 2008)

I don't think it does any irreparable damage to wait to socialize until the pup's health isn't being risked.

The only place my 5 month old male went until he had all of his shots was the vets office.

It didn't harm him one bit. He's extremely social, loves other dogs, babies and children, and all adults he encounters.
He loves going out and meeting new people and experiencing new things...no fear or nerve issues at all.


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## Jacket (Nov 30, 2008)

Jacket had his first vet visit Friday.. 12 pounds.. did have some roundworm that is being treated... Vet said it was normal and should be gone by his next visit in 3 weeks.. vet said he should gain 5-6 pounds by the next visit

Lots of good advice. I have been careful in the locations I have taken him so far. I have taken him with me when i got visit my family. I have also taken him with me to some stores. I always carry him and never let him interact with any other dogs. He has not be introduced to any other dogs yet except for the dog I already own.

Any tips on getting him to stop crying when put in his crate or will that go away with time?

edited my signature to remove photo, thanks.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I agree with both Reichsmom and 3K9Mom. I think that a 6 1/2 week old puppy should not go ANYWHERE that other dogs have been. It is highly likely that if it does have a set of shots, it was ineffective due to being under the mother's immunization. So the puppy did not have the ability to grow its own antibodies. 

However, in a few days, I would take the puppy to safer places and get them acclimated. Just give the immunization a chance to work. Then after the next set of shots I would take the pup to most places that I would be taking it, training classes, groomer, etc. 

What is VERY scarey is the Veterinarian. Ours had Parvo there when I was taking a pup in to weigh it. Another day they had a lepto dog in. So, be careful wherever you take your puppy. It is ok to be paranoid. 

When Cujo was a puppy, he got a cut over his eye. He was a little over six weeks old. It was going to be my sister's dog so we went to the ER together. I was filling out the paper work when my sister sets the pup on the floor. I started stammering, she said, "that's ok, isn't it?" I choked out "GET HIM UP!" She picked him up and looked at me like I was crazy and looked at the receptionist. 

The receptionist backed me up and said, "Oh God, no, you don't know what we have on the floor out here."

Immunizations are funny. They may work, they may not. I do the immunizations, but I want a puppy to be a little bit older before it is given the ability to contract some things. Your pup should not be away from its litter yet. Waiting for the pup to be 10 or 12 weeks old will not hurt.


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