# Easy walk harness



## Meggg (Dec 13, 2017)

I have a 1 year old pup and he's horrible when walking on leash and I was told to get an easy walk harness. Anyone familiar with this product and would recommend?


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## thegooseman90 (Feb 24, 2017)

Harnesses are made for pulling so he'll pull you even harder. How old is the dog? The only time I'd recommend a harness for a pulling dog is if you won't teach him leash manners. Then you may as well give his neck a break. Use a prong collar and teach him not to pull. BUT if you have no experience with one find someone who can teach you how to fit it and use it.


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## Fodder (Oct 21, 2007)

^ an easy walk harness (made by the gentle leader company) s a front clipping harness that makes it difficult for a dog to pull, therefore, in theory, discouraging pulling. I do not recommend them, however they differ considerable from a standard harness.


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## wolfy dog (Aug 1, 2012)

Look up research that shows how these negatively affect the dog's structure. Would never use them.


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## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

I used a front ring harness with my Sting and was very pleased. The harness I used was the Walk In Sync https://www.dogwalkinsync.com/ and I also watched the training videos and used the walking method recommended. I did try the Gentle Leader but it didn't fit him right over the chest. The front ring harnesses are based on the idea that a dog likes to pull but not to push against a barrier. So these harnesses discourage a dog from pulling. My Sting was a big gsd 126 lbs and 30" tall. He would lunge when he saw something he wanted to chase after. I had been using a chock chain but he simply pulled the leash out of my hand with that big lunge. With the harness, when he lunged, he felt that something was pushing him back. So he learned to walk nicely and ignore distractions. Though the harness did the corrections, there were things I did which was explained in the video like when at first he would get excited when he saw a rabbit to chase, I would suddenly turn right into him or zig zag so he had to watch me. I can highly recommend the front ring harnesses for pulling or lunging dogs.


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## car2ner (Apr 9, 2014)

I agree with the Gooseman. I prefer to save harnesses for pulling. There are many times when I want my dog to be free to move out in front and have some room on a longer leash to work and I attach the leash to the back of the harness. We use a prong collar and our trainer helped use learn how to use it safely and effectively. You also have to use the correct technique which can be very frustrating starting out. Don't ever let your dog be rewarded by pulling on the collar. If the dog pulls you don't move. You only advance when they are near your leg. Eventually you can allow them more room to wander so long as the leash is loose. This is the best way to teach your dog not to pull and it is very annoying for both the dog and the handler when you begin because for quite some time you go no where. BUT it works. 

If you go with a front ring harness make sure you get one that fits right or it will slide around on the dog. And remember that no pull harnesses and head halters are just as aversive as collars. They work by making pulling uncomfortable. It just changes the body part being affected.


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## GandalfTheShepherd (May 1, 2017)

I've used the front clip easy walk harness before. I'm not sure if I got the wrong size but it didn't seem to fit my shepherd very well. However I feel it did help correct the pulling but I only used one while my pup was too young to use a prong. I don't care for harnesses in general if you're passing close quarters or getting near distractions because there's no control of the head. So if you have a pup that likes to eat stuff off the ground or goes in to sniff another dog you're out of luck. It worked in controlling his pulling though. We used the gentle leader occasionally too, if you work slowly and get the dog comfortable with it before ever walking it's much better than the harness. Everyone and their mother thinks it's a muzzle though lol. For my first dog the gentle leader worked, second dog harness did the job and the third looks like prong is the way to go. I always reward for correct walking so the dog starts to learn no matter what the device is. We always turned around or stopped like a tree when they pulled as well.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Yeah any harness I use is for pulling. My dad uses a easy walk harness and It works for him.


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## Muskeg (Jun 15, 2012)

I've seen tons of people using the easy walk and all the dogs were pulling. 

But if it works for you, I can't really complain. To each his own. 

I train my dogs to pull- skijor, bikejor, etc., so I use harnesses for pulling only. 

Get a good prong collar and use it right, it's by far the easiest, most humane solution for most GSD owners.


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## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

Meggg said:


> I have a 1 year old pup and he's horrible when walking on leash and I was told to get an easy walk harness. Anyone familiar with this product and would recommend?


Since the majority of the replies you have received are from prong collar users who are not in favor of these harnesses and except for a few have no experience with them, I hope you are not discouraged. I could site articles that show the harmful effects of the prong collar but that is not the question of your thread. I will say that the harness I use on their website explains how it effects the dog and has a vet's recommendation. In my view, any collar or harness if used incorrectly can be harmful. As I wrote in my post, I am very pleased with the harness. If you have further questions, please don' hesitate to either post on your thread or when you get enough posts to PM me.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

Studies show that harnesses alter the mechanics of a dog's movement. You would be better off teaching the dog position, to release to the pressure of the leash, reward and correct when pulling.

You don't need a prong collar to do this. You need to know how to actually teach your dog. This can all be done on a flat collar. The more "tools" you use, the more dependent you are on them. Whether that is a harness or a prong.


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## Apex1 (May 19, 2017)

I have never used any of the harness mentioned here. I can agree with what Jax08 has said. You really have to figure out how to teach the dog what you want and then slowly add in new environments. A prong can help IME, but you still have to 1st teach the dog what you want. It has taken me many months as I have never had a dog before, he can heel great in one situation and the next it is like starting all over. It is amazing what a dog will give when they truly understand what you want...most of the time HA!


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

Monique Anistee from The Naughty Dogge has the best method that I've used so far. Just swing your arm as you walk in an exaggerated movement. It makes the dog wonder what is going on and they will release to the pressure. 

Also, another method I've seen and used is to stop and lightly pop back on the collar until the dog backs up. At that point, you can click, lure them back into position and treat. Just be aware of your reward line. It has to be in the position that you want your dog to be. Not out ahead.

At some point, you will probably have to correct for a situation where whatever is out in front of them is wayyyy more interesting but teaching them the behavior that gets them the reward is key to your success.


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## Sabis mom (Mar 20, 2014)

Meggg said:


> I have a 1 year old pup and he's horrible when walking on leash and I was told to get an easy walk harness. Anyone familiar with this product and would recommend?


I found it didn't fit very well and tends to slide around. Shadow has always been horrible on the leash. I ended up with a prong after trying numerous things, to prevent injury to ME.
The Easy walk does alter the shoulder movement and my vet is not a fan, but did agree that her continued yanking and pulling was dangerous for both of us and nothing was working. She did recommend a prong, and I foolishly disagreed and went with the harness. It accomplished nothing and I was adjusting it every few feet.
Also be forewarned that as a determined puller, Shadow actually got her front legs to slip over the chest strap and almost got loose on me.


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## BradyC87 (Dec 20, 2017)

car2ner said:


> I agree with the Gooseman. I prefer to save harnesses for pulling. There are many times when I want my dog to be free to move out in front and have some room on a longer leash to work and I attach the leash to the back of the harness. We use a prong collar and our trainer helped use learn how to use it safely and effectively. You also have to use the correct technique which can be very frustrating starting out. Don't ever let your dog be rewarded by pulling on the collar. If the dog pulls you don't move. You only advance when they are near your leg. Eventually you can allow them more room to wander so long as the leash is loose. This is the best way to teach your dog not to pull and it is very annoying for both the dog and the handler when you begin because for quite some time you go no where. BUT it works.
> 
> If you go with a front ring harness make sure you get one that fits right or it will slide around on the dog. And remember that no pull harnesses and head halters are just as aversive as collars. They work by making pulling uncomfortable. It just changes the body part being affected.


That is what I have been working on with our 5 month old. We take different walks, one being with his long leash where he is allowed to roam around and smell whatever he wants and walks with his short leash in which he is learning is just simply to walk and not explore everything that catches his nose. If he starts to pull I just stop walking and he looks back saying are we walking or what? Once he moves back next to me and loosens up the leash I keep walking. It makes for some pretty short distance walks over a long period of time but it is what it is until he learns.

I prefer the back attach harness because it really helps prevent the leash from getting tangled in his legs but again that is just personal preference. Ours also has a sort of handle on the back which makes it very easy to keep him close and control exactly where he is in case an aggressive dog is walking by or anything like that.


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## Sunsilver (Apr 8, 2014)

Had a friend's dog walk into my kennel, towing the owner behind him -totally out of control! He was wearing a halti, which the owner thought doubled as a muzzle. The dog already had a muzzle order against it, so this was a disaster looking for a place to happen!

I put a prong on the dog, and within just FIFTEEN minutes had him walking properly by my side without pulling. 

I look at any anti-pulling solution as a TEMPORARY measure, to keep the dog under control until it learns NOT to pull. This dog was able to transition back to a flat collar after several weeks of teaching with the prong.

I have seen dogs on front walk harnesses that were totally out of control. One was a boxer who would jump 4 feet up in the air and spin around when being walked. That's a huge drawback of these harnesses: you have no control over the dog's head.

Train/teach your dog not to pull using whatever tool works best for you. The key is to teach the dog that you are the most important th ing in the world. You need to learn to interrupt his behaviour the SECOND his eyes focus on another dog or distraction. Change direction/call his attention back to you. Watch his eyes, be aware of where his focus is, and act then. You are acting far too late by the time he is ready to lunge at the distraction.


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## Armistice (Oct 12, 2017)

Since we're on this topic, I've been doing the method of stopping if my pup starts to pull. However, I keep tension to reel myself toward her so I'm standing by her, then let slack, then we can go. I do this because she doesn't come back. She just stops and stares at me like "are we going to go?" Sometimes I'll pull her to me and get her in heel

However, my pup is a sniffer. Wants to sniff everything. My method has been she gets pulled back to me, but after a random number, she is "free" and allowed to sniff 1-2 things before she needs to be back to just calm walking. She's almost 5mos, and I'm still trying to let her be a puppy

Not sure where I was going with this. I guess just suggestions on the leash training as well as if I should curb the sniffing more


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## wolfy dog (Aug 1, 2012)

Armistice said:


> Since we're on this topic, I've been doing the method of stopping if my pup starts to pull. However, I keep tension to reel myself toward her so I'm standing by her, then let slack, then we can go. I do this because she doesn't come back. She just stops and stares at me like "are we going to go?" Sometimes I'll pull her to me and get her in heel


Then you are the one who is heeling. Instead of stopping and the dog staring at you, walk back wards facing the same direction as you were going, pulling if you need to. As soon as she is back with you or walking freely towards you, you go forward again. The key is to keep her moving. If you wait for her, all you do is giving her time to find something more interesting to do. I don't use food rewards; walking is the reward.


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## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

Whole Dog Journal explanation and reviews of front ring harnesses:


https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/20_4/features/Best-Dog-Harnesses-2017_21622-1.html


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## car2ner (Apr 9, 2014)

BradyC87 said:


> That is what I have been working on with our 5 month old. We take different walks, one being with his long leash where he is allowed to roam around and smell whatever he wants and walks with his short leash in which he is learning is just simply to walk and not explore everything that catches his nose. If he starts to pull I just stop walking and he looks back saying are we walking or what? Once he moves back next to me and loosens up the leash I keep walking. It makes for some pretty short distance walks over a long period of time but it is what it is until he learns.
> 
> I prefer the back attach harness because it really helps prevent the leash from getting tangled in his legs but again that is just personal preference. Ours also has a sort of handle on the back which makes it very easy to keep him close and control exactly where he is in case an aggressive dog is walking by or anything like that.


Just be careful of restraining your dog with a back attach leash. That is what protection sports people do to INCREASE drive! The hold the dog back by the handle on the harness and when they let the dog go, they hit the decoy like a rocket!


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## BradyC87 (Dec 20, 2017)

Armistice said:


> Since we're on this topic, I've been doing the method of stopping if my pup starts to pull. However, I keep tension to reel myself toward her so I'm standing by her, then let slack, then we can go. I do this because she doesn't come back. She just stops and stares at me like "are we going to go?" Sometimes I'll pull her to me and get her in heel
> 
> However, my pup is a sniffer. Wants to sniff everything. My method has been she gets pulled back to me, but after a random number, she is "free" and allowed to sniff 1-2 things before she needs to be back to just calm walking. She's almost 5mos, and I'm still trying to let her be a puppy
> 
> Not sure where I was going with this. I guess just suggestions on the leash training as well as if I should curb the sniffing more


I allow our pup to sniff whatever he wants as long as he is not pulling and not stopping to the point where I have to stop. He is getting better but has not mastered the walk by sniff yet lol. I always have a bag full of food/treats in my pocket too so that when he is walking the correct way I always give praise and sometimes a reward.


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