# Easy Walk Harness irritated puppies under-arms, any alternative?



## NYCgsd (Apr 23, 2016)

My pups armpits aren't very hairy yet. The easy walk harness made her very sore in the under-arm area. I need advice on another harness I can use. I really don't want a leather one yet because they are s pricey and at 14 weeks old she will outgrow it quickly. Perhaps a harness that doesnt go right under the arms but closer to her stomach? Really need some help here, she pulls and I think the nylon collar is painful when make corrections.


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## voodoolamb (Jun 21, 2015)

There are other "correction" harnesses then the easy walk. Perhaps take her into a pet store and try on a few to see what fits her better. None that I know of are leather. Personally I am not a fan of them, over priced junk used in place of training the dog. But each to their own. Some swear by then. Personally, I use a slip lead or flat buckle 99% of the time for 99% of the dogs I work with.

I wouldn't suggest using a harness at all if you have a puller. I mean their original purpose was to make pulling loads easier for dogs/horses.

You don't need to use corrections to teach a young pup like that to walk on a loose leash. 

I succeeded in teaching my boy not to pull simply but not allowing pulling to become a self rewarding behavior (stopping and not moving forward or changing direction and walking away from what he was pulling towards). Luring with food and clicker training are options too. If you are going to do leash corrections a prong is the most humane imo. But I wouldn't suggest that for a puppy...


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## Augustine (Nov 22, 2014)

I'm assuming this is to stop her from pulling, yes? I used the gentle leader for awhile. It works quite well, albeit as a band-aid "solution".

Personally, I prefer prong collars. They work well for a variety of other things and with the prong, you actually train your dog not to pull, as opposed to just discouraging it.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

At 14 weeks old I used the gentle leader. My pup did not like it much but I have to say I used it a handful of times and my pup learned how to walk real nice on a leash very quick using the gentle leader. There is a cd that comes with it and u just need to make sure u watch to fit it correctly. When my pup was much older I would started to use the herm sprenger neck tech collar which to me is a milder prong collar and it works very well. Walking with the family was the biggest challenge as if any of our kids that would stray ahead there would be much pulling as max always kept trying to keep the group together so these collars were the only thing that worked great for that.


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## NYCgsd (Apr 23, 2016)

voodoolamb said:


> There are other "correction" harnesses then the easy walk. Perhaps take her into a pet store and try on a few to see what fits her better. None that I know of are leather. Personally I am not a fan of them, over priced junk used in place of training the dog. But each to their own. Some swear by then. Personally, I use a slip lead or flat buckle 99% of the time for 99% of the dogs I work with.
> 
> I wouldn't suggest using a harness at all if you have a puller. I mean their original purpose was to make pulling loads easier for dogs/horses.
> 
> ...


Oh, her pulling has gotten ALOT better. I just don't want to damage her neck. She mostly pulls when we are almost back at the house from a walk. And at this age she picks up every stick and rock in the street. I use the leave it command or the "out" command and it works most of the time but every now and then I have to stick my hand down her throat to dig out a rock and stick. I make corrections mostly from her picking up stuff from the floor and not so much for pulling.


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## cloudpump (Oct 20, 2015)

With my boxer I connected the front harness to the collar then to the leash. I added some padding covers to under the armpit area.


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## wolfy dog (Aug 1, 2012)

Basically at this age, you only need a flat collar and the correct training techniques. Front clip harnesses, head halters and other magical equipment are feel-good-to-human-management tools. They don't teach the dog anything from the inside out.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Mine must be different then. My dad took his pup to the store to get fitted for a no pull harness. It worked great. No rubs. Always worried my dad who is much older getting dragged and possibly fallen if pulled by a large Labrador. Not the case -even now fully grown she walks great on a harness or no harness , slip collar-she walks like a princess on the leash and is a very big strong girl.


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## voodoolamb (Jun 21, 2015)

wolfy dog said:


> Basically at this age, you only need a flat collar and the correct training techniques. Front clip harnesses, head halters and other magical equipment are feel-good-to-human-management tools. They don't teach the dog anything from the inside out.


Yes. This.


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## WIBackpacker (Jan 9, 2014)

I'm not going to throw my hat in the ring about what type of collar/harness is better, but I do have a short-term solution for you until you find something that works better.


Buy Body Glide (https://www.bodyglide.com/) from a drugstore or online, and apply it to the less-hairy areas where the harness rubs. It's a semi-solid stick, it applies like deodorant. I've used this on my dogs when they're going to wear a backpack for extended distances, and a dog backpack is essentially a harness with storage. It helps prevent chaffing, especially if they get wet/dry/wet/dry repeatedly while wearing it.


NOTE - don't let your puppy lick or eat the stuff, I don't know how safe it is. If your puppy keeps trying to lick it off, then this probably isn't a good solution.


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## voodoolamb (Jun 21, 2015)

NYCgsd said:


> Oh, her pulling has gotten ALOT better. I just don't want to damage her neck. She mostly pulls when we are almost back at the house from a walk. And at this age she picks up every stick and rock in the street. I use the leave it command or the "out" command and it works most of the time but every now and then I have to stick my hand down her throat to dig out a rock and stick. I make corrections mostly from her picking up stuff from the floor and not so much for pulling.


Ahh ok. I was confused because in your original post you said: 



> Really need some help here, she pulls and I think the nylon collar is painful when make corrections.


It sounds like you need to do a lot more practice with "leave it" in a controlled environment. You shouldn't be sticking you fingers down her throat or giving her leash corrections. You don't want to give a command unless you are sure the dog will obey it. By letting her have access to items after you give the "leave it" command you are in effect teaching her she doesn't always have to obey it. I'd put a pin in doing actual 'walks' for a while. Take her out to potty / play only in an area you have checked for debris. Even if that means you going out before her every single time for a while. And keep practicing leave it. She just doesn't sound ready for real world scenarios with that yet.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Well ... I am a Hat tosser! 

To start ... you can't correct a dog with a harness, harnesses are designed for a dog to pull. Engineering not with standing that is a fact. 

By way of explaination:
http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/7823865-post87.html

No serious dog trainer or well in anycase very few use "Harness." For myself I would not trust a dog trained to walk on a harness to be reliable with anything I expect routinely, from my dogs.

Doing it right looks the first clip here, as Wolfy Dog explained:
http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/5296377-post8.html

It's not a "check book solution as I am want to say. If the "OP" choses to the SLL is also a viable option as explained here:
Slip Lead leash - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums

Put in the time, in understand how your dog walks and moves and you can walk "any dog" comfortable on leash, if you shortcut the process with a gimmick?? I'd be pretty sure you could not make that claim, well I guess you could make the claim but could you do it??


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## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

I also had trouble with the Easy Walk. It didn't fit right, kept slipping, and had to be too tight to stay up. I use the Walk In Sync harness for my adult gsd. I wished I had used it from when he was a puppy. They are well made as I've used the same harness and leash for the past 5 years. It has a loose fit and has caused no chafing. The harness is also available for puppies: 

https://dogwalkinsync.com


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

I use harness for sledding and bikejoring so I would not want to use a no pull harness. My dad uses the sensible no pull harness to walk his large young lab and my daughter often walks her in it also when we go for walks she walks great and does not pull at all. She also walks on a collar and my dad is no trainer. So it's what ever works best for you and your dog.


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## Dainerra (Nov 14, 2003)

The No-Pull Debate | Whole Dog Journal

The Problem With Head Halters | Relationship Centered Dog Training by Suzanne Clothier

some good info on why both head halters and no-pull harnesses can be dangerous.


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## Nigel (Jul 10, 2012)

Dainerra said:


> The No-Pull Debate | Whole Dog Journal
> 
> The Problem With Head Halters | Relationship Centered Dog Training by Suzanne Clothier
> 
> some good info on why both head halters and no-pull harnesses can be dangerous.


Interesting, I liked Suzanne Clothiers perspective on head halters. Years back, a trainer recommended my wife use one with Zoe and it was a disaster, we will not go that route again.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Nigel said:


> Interesting, I liked Suzanne Clothiers perspective on head halters. Years back, a trainer recommended my wife use one with Zoe and it was a disaster, we will not go that route again.


 Well I stated facts on the thing so I'll let that go. 

As for my take frankly, I feel embarrassed for dogs wearing head halters, myself. I see no dignity in them for the dog. But pretty sure that's just me. 

But the problem with Head Healters in particular is that owners that are used to yank and crank?? Are still going to do that if the dog gives "serious" resistance or is reactive to other dogs. And with a HH, that would be a problem.


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## Dainerra (Nov 14, 2003)

Chip18 said:


> Well I stated facts on the thing so I'll let that go.
> 
> As for my take frankly, I feel embarrassed for dogs wearing head halters, myself. I see no dignity in them for the dog. But pretty sure that's just me.
> But the problem with Head Healters in particular is that owners that are used to yank and crank?? Are still going to do that if the dog gives "serious" resistance or is reactive to other dogs. And with a HH, that would be a problem.


my vet summed it up very simply and I think Suzanne says the same - dogs aren't horses. They are not built the same; they are not psychologically the same. 
One of the selling points of the HH is that it mimics corrections that a mother dog would give. However, because of it's design across the muzzle, especially with a leash attached, the dog is basically getting a constant mild correction. There is no easing up on it.

Yes, it makes the dog easier to control but it does it in a way that is damaging to the dog.
Every dog I've seen has what I consider a negative reaction. The owners view it as "see, he knows we're going to walk now. He's settled down" 
I see a dispirited dog. The dogs literally go from happy bouncy individuals to almost fearful and dejected. The entire body language changes.
I'll admit that I planned to use one on Rayden. Many years ago, when they were the hot new training item. After a few weeks of trying to acclimate him to wearing it, he would hide if he saw you pick it up. If you tried to put it on him, he would submissively urinate.
Years later, I found it in the bottom of a bag of old dog stuff in the closet. He ran and hid at the sight of it.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Wow this seems so It sounds all pretty drastic. Oh my. My highly reputable and very trusted trainer recommend a head halter I used one five times. I would never tortured my animals either so give me a break. I used mine about 5 times. They don't like it at first. Because they can't pull And will try to fight that. He did not react the way you speak not even close. Can't find want you said to be true it me experience but it has been your experience. I saw numerous pups using the head halter in training class many shepherds and a few labs pups training to be seeing eye dogs and service dogs. Not one looked the way you described not even one. Any Hoo if your dog is submissively urinating and shaking because the poor pups terrified or shutting down we all can say it is not right for your pup. 
Head halters and no pull harnesses are not torturing devises as some had said here - good grief. Not meant to be long term and use common sense if your pup is absolutely miserable don't use it. What works for some and not for others does not mean it's wrong.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Chip- we are talking about use in pups here not dog reactive dog or adult dogs- stay on trAck.


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## Shade (Feb 20, 2012)

I'm not a throw the baby out with the bath water type of person, if it works for your dog and you're using it correctly then I see 0 issue with it. Any tool can be abused so find one that your dog responds to and it works for you

Personally Delgado was a major pulled even as a pup, I tried the flat collar and regular harness and got no results so I switched to a Halti head collar and it was perfect. When he was old enough I switched him to a prong collar, and now I'm trying a new Easy Walk style harness that was designed by a local trainer that I'm seeing good results with. Sits higher on the chest and pulls to the side rather than to the front

Do what works for you and ignore the haters


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Dainerra said:


> my vet summed it up very simply and I think Suzanne says the same - dogs aren't horses. They are not built the same; they are not psychologically the same.
> One of the selling points of the HH is that it mimics corrections that a mother dog would give. However, because of it's design across the muzzle, especially with a leash attached, the dog is basically getting a constant mild correction. There is no easing up on it.
> 
> Yes, it makes the dog easier to control but it does it in a way that is damaging to the dog.
> ...


Saw that on a walk a few weeks ago.

GSD Black and Tan, across the street, I spoke to him across the distance. The Dog appeared to walk perfectly fine?? But when stooped to talk, Rocky held his head up high (No leash) and that guys GSD help his head down low. hta particular dog looked "Dispirited or Beat Down." It was clear to see to anyone ... except the dogs owners ... apparently??


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Shade said:


> I'm not a throw the baby out with the bath water type of person, if it works for your dog and you're using it correctly then I see 0 issue with it. Any tool can be abused so find one that your dog responds to and it works for you
> 
> Personally Delgado was a major pulled even as a pup, I tried the flat collar and regular harness and got no results so I switched to a Halti head collar and it was perfect. When he was old enough I switched him to a prong collar, and now I'm trying a new Easy Walk style harness that was designed by a local trainer that I'm seeing good results with. Sits higher on the chest and pulls to the side rather than to the front
> 
> Do what works for you and ignore the haters


Hmmm so saying "you can't correct a dog with a harness" makes me a hater??? 

Well I am a member of a pretty big club then.


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## Shade (Feb 20, 2012)

Chip18 said:


> Hmmm so saying "you can't correct a dog with a harness" makes me a hater???
> 
> Well I am a member of a pretty big club then.


Wasn't pointing fingers at anyone in particular, RL or online. My point is do what's best for your dog and if it's working don't worry about what other people think

You absolutely can use any style of harness effectively if you know how and the dog responds, I know two trainers with multiple degrees and years of experience that I've trained with that use harnesses exclusively for certain dogs and it works. I was walking a foster dog with a harness last night with high prey drive around cats that were loose in the farm yard, due to previous abuse she's extremely sensitive with her neck and head area so you can't walk her using any type of collar or Halti so we use a normal harness. She's a large Coonhound mix around 80 lbs and I'm no tall strong person and I was able to walk her around even when she would be aroused and want to chase the cat that was 10' away from her without difficulty and believe me, she tried.

Again, my point is I've learned to never say never


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Jenny720 said:


> Chip- we are talking about use in pups here not dog reactive dog or adult dogs- stay on trAck.


Aww the "Puppy Card." 

The fact of the matter is you can damage a Leash reactive dog with a head halter! And the people that are used to "yanking and cranking on a dog" will try and do the exact same thing with a Head Halter if the dog reacts.

Saw that on Cesar 911 as a matter of fact. Cesar of course quickly took control, kinda like yeah that did not work! 
Episode 212 - Nani Nightmare | Cesar911.com

Can't find the whole episode, but out of control "Pit" ... sigh. Cesar suggested a Head Halter ... I was stunned?? Yeah that did not work  out to well for the owner! Cesar quickly took control. 

The fact of the matter is that owners that understand how to properly walk a dog can walk a dog using "anything" the tool doesn't matter.

If I'm a hater (not your words but ... you know.  ) Well then it's because I encourage people to get it right from square one and my goal is to have folks spend ... "Nothing" on check book solutions.

So if it's a puppy, I got it covered, it looks like the first video clip here:

http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/5296377-post8.html


The "principle" is what's important and it ... it doesn't cost a dime in dollars, the only coast involved is the "time" to get it right. 

As for "me" when I see "serious" Dog Trainers start to use "gimmicks" to train dogs ... then I'll be willing to reevaluate my position ... I don't see either happening anytime soon??

And of course folks should use what works for them, they just shouldn't thing all things are equal.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Chip18 said:


> Jenny720 said:
> 
> 
> > Chip- we are talking about use in pups here not dog reactive dog or adult dogs- stay on trAck.
> ...


I almost give up but I am smiling at the same time!!!!Yes chip the thread is about a pulling puppy. Yes I gave my experience with puppy and a head halter including extremely experienced people using head halters in puppies used for service work and seeing eye pups in training. Use anything correctly you will get great results and with a very happy pup who is not mistakenly traumatized. My point is just that. Also my dad loves his no pull halter and the dog is happy as a clam and incredibly well behaved. Just don't to see any justification in what has been said if used correctly in my own personal experiences.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Shade said:


> Wasn't pointing fingers at anyone in particular, RL or online. My point is do what's best for your dog and if it's working don't worry about what other people think
> 
> You absolutely can use any style of harness effectively if you know how and the dog responds, I know two trainers with multiple degrees and years of experience that I've trained with that use harnesses exclusively for certain dogs and it works. I was walking a foster dog with a harness last night with high prey drive around cats that were loose in the farm yard, due to previous abuse she's extremely sensitive with her neck and head area so you can't walk her using any type of collar or Halti so we use a normal harness. She's a large Coonhound mix around 80 lbs and I'm no tall strong person and I was able to walk her around even when she would be aroused and want to chase the cat that was 10' away from her without difficulty and believe me, she tried.
> 
> Again, my point is I've learned to never say never


LOL well ... you kinda sorta make my point. 

"You" understand how to properly walk a dog and "you" can use anything "you" like. 

People are of course free to use anything they like, I'm just pointing out there is a difference between "tricking" a dog to walk properly and "training" a dog to walk properly.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

I completely disagree with using a hh and no pull harness is tricking your pup how to walk on a leash. Also as I said previously you have to watch and see how your pup is responding. -if stressed at is not right for your pup.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Jenny720 said:


> I almost give up but I am smiling at the same time!!!!Yes chip the thread is about a pulling puppy. Yes I gave my experience with puppy and a head halter including extremely experienced people using head halters in puppies used for service work and seeing eye pups in training. Use anything correctly you will get great results and with a very happy pup who is not mistakenly traumatized. My point is just that. Also my dad loves his no pull halter and the dog is happy as a clam and incredibly well behaved. Just don't to see any justification in what has been said if used correctly in my own personal experiences.


Aww I'll stand down and I'll acknowledge that one of my guys "Bonker Guy" Gary Wilkes uses a Head Halter! 

I was stunned!! But ... as they say ... the only thing that three dog trainers will agree on ... is what one of them is doing wrong.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Jenny720 said:


> I completely disagree with using a hh and no pull harness is tricking your dog how to walk on a leash.


Uh oh ... to late to respond, as I said, time for me to! :










Maybe the "next" time.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Chip18 said:


> Jenny720 said:
> 
> 
> > I completely disagree with using a hh and no pull harness is tricking your dog how to walk on a leash.
> ...


You got it chip! (smiling)


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## NYCgsd (Apr 23, 2016)

So I guess the consensus is to use a slip lead, or a choke collar.


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

NYCgsd said:


> My pups armpits aren't very hairy yet. The easy walk harness made her very sore in the under-arm area. I need advice on another harness I can use. I really don't want a leather one yet because they are s pricey and at 14 weeks old she will outgrow it quickly. Perhaps a harness that doesnt go right under the arms but closer to her stomach? Really need some help here, she pulls and I think the nylon collar is painful when make corrections.


Those are agitation harness's your looking at. You don't have any use for those. Its meant to be pulled against without creating a bunch of discomfort. The nylon collar isn't very painful in itself, but if you're jerking her around on anything, its not something she's going to like. At her age, don't think about walks like you would with a more mature dog.

Its more like exploring, with brief periods of calling her to you to show her its fun to be with you. Teaching leave it is fine, but its easier if it isn't so random like the constant picking up rocks and sticks wherever you come across them. Its easier to be more direct with it by setting her up with a controlled situation, like a stick or something where there aren't other things going on. Something where it narrows everything down. 

What ever you put on her its all about teaching her, not depending on the equipment to just restrain her from things. I think that's the whole problem with the different heads collars and things. Becoming dependent on it and forgetting to actually train what you're looking for.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

Agree with this and because I chose to use a hh with my pup as he was a puller it did not mean I did not train him how to walk on a leash. It was used in addition to his training and therefore not needed for long. I trained many dogs/pups to walk on a flat leash as a kid. They are all different.


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## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

Jenny720 said:


> Agree with this and because I chose to use a hh with my pup as he was a puller it did not mean I did not train him how to walk on a leash. It was used in addition to his training and therefore not needed for long. I trained many dogs/pups to walk on a flat leash as a kid. They are all different.


Jenny has made an excellent point. The hh or harness can help to control a dog who is a strong puller or lunger but it does not by itself train the dog. With the Walk In Sync harness that I use, it came with training videos. I also use the method of training a dog to walk on a flat collar described by Turid Rugaas in her book: My Dog Pulls, What do I do. In my view, when a person chooses to use a hh or harness, they are simply using a different tool with a positive training approach which is different from the traditional training that uses slip or prong collars to teach the dog by corrections.


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## Dainerra (Nov 14, 2003)

even the manuals that come with HHs say they aren't to be used with dogs that are pullers. My vet has actually treated more than 1 dog with neck injuries from HHs


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## Nigel (Jul 10, 2012)

Mary Beth said:


> Jenny has made an excellent point. The hh or harness can help to control a dog who is a strong puller or lunger but it does not by itself train the dog. With the Walk In Sync harness that I use, it came with training videos. I also use the method of training a dog to walk on a flat collar described by Turid Rugaas in her book: My Dog Pulls, What do I do. In my view, when a person chooses to use a hh or harness*, they are simply using a different tool with a positive training approach* which is different from the traditional training that uses slip or prong collars to teach the dog by corrections.


That's the thing, it's not necessarily "positive". The Susanne Clothier article that Dainerra posted explains it well, it's actually aversive and people should be aware of this. I'm not against them, people should choose to use what works best for them. 

Our experience with an hh was anything but positive. Our girl can be a bully, she's pushy too and she was not going to cooperate. I believe the person we gave the hh to had better luck using it with their dog, every dog is different.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Mary Beth said:


> Jenny has made an excellent point. The hh or harness can help to control a dog who is a strong puller or lunger but it does not by itself train the dog. With the Walk In Sync harness that I use, it came with training videos. I also use the method of training a dog to walk on a flat collar described by Turid Rugaas in her book: My Dog Pulls, What do I do. In my view, when a person chooses to use a hh or harness, they are *simply using a different tool with a positive training approach which is different from the traditional training that uses slip or prong collars to teach the dog by corrections.*


Ah I got my opening!! Gonna limit my scope to the part in bold. 

Limit it further to my tool of choice because I have not used a "Prong Collar, although I could. 

Sooo not really sure why people tend to think a SLL is a yank and crank tool?? It is a "real tool" and it's usefulness of course ... depends on the user. 

At any rate ... for the first time uh ever I got to work with my first hard core non Boxer doggie!!! A "Pitty" massively muscled, APBT head (large) but more the size of the weird english "Pitty" kinda small in stature, but massive head, at anyrate he was one of the three that the owner was walking the dogs bolted ...and he broke his back!! 

For the first time ever, (I usually work with Boxers) for me "Boxers" are a piece of cake (kinda weird but whatever) but this time I had a dog that did the "nope" I'm not gonna move thing, and then the stand up in protest thing??? Add in the occasional "growl" in protest thing and I can pretty much guarantee that if one were, to give a hard correction to that dog, one would have experienced first hand an "up leash dog!" 

That never happened, I simply applied forward pressure until the dog moved forward on his on accord. He was most definitely not happy ... but he moved. 

I can't really remember what the rearing up and standing thing was about?? But we got over it. And again the dog moved, short session and progress made but it was pretty clear that this was not a dog to be yanked on ... which for the record I have never done in anycase!

I can pretty much guarantee, that a "harsh" leash correction with this dog ... would have put him over the top! And yet again ... that never happened, time and patience is all that was required. 

My point ... if people don't want to use a real "tool" then don't but don't be "automatically" labeling "real tools" as yank and crank. That also is "off base" how the tool is used .... depends on the user. 

And if you train a dog (as show in the clip I mentioned/posted) then one will have a better "understanding" of what to look for. And as I am want to say ... pretty much that simple. 

But as I my or not tend to be rather obtuse at times, the above was PO as it were. Treat free I would add and my impression is ... "that" dog was uninterested in treats in anycase.

Staying in "scope here" I trust???


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## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

NYCgsd said:


> My pups armpits aren't very hairy yet. The easy walk harness made her very sore in the under-arm area. I need advice on another harness I can use. I really don't want a leather one yet because they are s pricey and at 14 weeks old she will outgrow it quickly. Perhaps a harness that doesnt go right under the arms but closer to her stomach? Really need some help here, she pulls and I think the nylon collar is painful when make corrections.


What may work is to get a cover over the strap that goes under her arms. That way you could use the harness you have and also can use the cover for her future harnesses assuming she is still sensitive. 

This site sells them for dog harnesses and they are very reasonable: 
Dog Harness Strap Covers | Comfortable Fleece Strap Wraps To Prevent Rubbing

Or, if you have a saddle/horse tack shop in your area, I would ask there. Sheepskin covers are used for horses and ponies for the saddle girth and also to cover nosebands on halters and bridles. So, they could probably make you one to fit your harness strap. Or if you sew or know someone who sews like someone who does alterations (a dry cleaning place sometimes does that), one could be made - you won't need more than 1/2 yard of a fake sheepskin.


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## voodoolamb (Jun 21, 2015)

NYCgsd said:


> So I guess the consensus is to use a slip lead, or a choke collar.


I would not suggest a choke collar for this pup at all. 

Chokes are one of those tools that have to be used properly or it can cause permanent damage to your dog. Ever see a dog with a damaged larynx? Pitiful sight. 

As you are a new dog owner, if you decide to use a choke chain, please only do it under the guidance of a good trainer.

If you MUST use a correction collar - prongs are the most humane. It takes much less force to give a correction with a prong. 

I use slip leads for convenience as my dog's don't wear collars. Easier to train the door to "noose himself" then for me to be bending over and messing with buckles several times a day. I don't really use them for corrections.

Personally, I don't think you need, nor should be using, any fancy equipment right now. No harnesses, no choke chains, no head halters, no prongs, no magic joo joo beans. 

Flat buckle collar, a leash, treats and a toy. You've got a baby. I would focus on engagement. You'd be surprised how much of the pulling and vacuuming stops when she realises that she will have more fun engaging with you.

I suggest puppy classes.


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## NYCgsd (Apr 23, 2016)

voodoolamb said:


> I would not suggest a choke collar for this pup at all.
> 
> Chokes are one of those tools that have to be used properly or it can cause permanent damage to your dog. Ever see a dog with a damaged larynx? Pitiful sight.
> 
> ...



Thats exactly what Im using right now. Wide flat collar, wide flat leash, treats, and a bite rag tied to a shoelace. Now if I can only get her to stop biting on the leash...


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## MineAreWorkingline (May 2, 2015)

voodoolamb said:


> I would not suggest a choke collar for this pup at all.
> 
> Chokes are one of those tools that have to be used properly or it can cause permanent damage to your dog. Ever see a dog with a damaged larynx? Pitiful sight.
> 
> ...


This is about as good as it gets. I use flat collars for all my training, even dogs that pull, and use methods like you suggested in your first post for any pullers with great success.


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## NYCgsd (Apr 23, 2016)

MineAreWorkingline said:


> This is about as good as it gets. I use flat collars for all my training, even dogs that pull, and use methods like you suggested in your first post for any pullers with great success.


Im using a flat collar, treats and a toy (bite rag she seems like like). I guess its normal for her to be sniffing every tree and bush and corner in existence right now:grin2:
Every now and then we both get on the same page and get a nice stroll going at a brisk pace. She knows the heel command pretty well, but at soon as I reward her she breaks the heel and goes on to stop and sniff random objects.


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