# Some OB today



## Blitzkrieg1 (Jul 31, 2012)

Put the camera on a tripod, unfortunately it restricts how freely you can heel. So I had to do a lot of tight patterns to try and stay in the frame.
You can see that she crowds a bit and sometimes forges slightly.
Hence why I do a lot of backups, left turns and rewarding behind my back.

I experimented with various forms of positive punishment to fix this but didnt like what it cost me in animation. I have decided to accept some of the forging and try to minimize it through the methods mentioned above to maintain the animation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xInSMGtUOUc&feature=youtu.be

Some Dumbell. Used free shaping, markers, force fetch, and prey drive to train this..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIAptZyXIzI&feature=youtu.be


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## Wolfgeist (Dec 4, 2010)

You guys make such a great team, you look really good! 

Her dumb bell work is coming along beautifully too. She isn't chewy, right?

Also... a little off topic... I took your advice about rewarding from behind, I bought a magnet ball reward for it as well. He seems to heel better outside my house in the yard and on the street then on our training field for some reason... lol! It's helping though, so thanks again!


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## Packen (Sep 14, 2008)

Big improvement from before, kudos for that. The forging is because of targeting, if you show her to target shoulder area it will improove, currently she is targeting on face. 

Two items on retrieves will make them even better,

1. When you command front position "hier" pay attention to your body language. Your legs are open (feet planted apart), in trial you need feet closer, big difference to the dog.
2. When she goes out to retrieve, you should move position while she is going out and be stationery when she picks up and turns to you (you are moving when she is coming to you).


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## GatorDog (Aug 17, 2011)

She looks good! I like her enthusiasm in the retrieves especially. Nice.

I would reiterate what Faisal said about the visual target area. Its an easy fix and would probably help fix the forging without sacrificing animation. If anything, it might improve.


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## wolfmanusf (Apr 5, 2012)

Looks good Haz. I will echo what Faisal and Alexis have said. I also noticed that in this video you only rewarded heel position when you were stationary. When she was stationary she anticipated the reward to be around the back, but it looks like when she is heeling she expects reward to come from across your body. Possibly try the reward behind the back while moving if you haven't done so already. Good job. I like how you combined different styles of the retrieve to find what works for you and the dog. That is something many people fail to put together.


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## Blitzkrieg1 (Jul 31, 2012)

Wild Wolf said:


> You guys make such a great team, you look really good!
> 
> Her dumb bell work is coming along beautifully too. She isn't chewy, right?
> 
> ...


Thats great cant wait to see your progress next training. Also, want to check the magnet ball out.


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## Blitzkrieg1 (Jul 31, 2012)

Packen said:


> Big improvement from before, kudos for that. The forging is because of targeting, if you show her to target shoulder area it will improove, currently she is targeting on face.
> 
> Two items on retrieves will make them even better,
> 
> ...


 
Thanks Faisal.

Any tips for changing her target? If I put the ball under my arm she targets it and does not forge, but if its not there she knows and will target my face. I have been unsuccessful in changing the target so far..
My fault for rewarding this in the foundation.

1. I plant my feet apart on purpose to draw her in closer. I initially trained the front with my feet together but started planting them apart to get her in closer. Ill have to ween her off that though.

2. I started moving away from her on the returns to increase speed on the return. 
I used to throw the ball between my legs but it actually slowed her down as she would do this stupid creep when she got within a meter waiting for me to pop the ball. So I moved to running away from her on the return or walking backwards with the ball under my chin to bring the speed on the return up.
That being said I did not know I was doing that this session..lol. Thanks for pointing that out I will fix it.


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## Blitzkrieg1 (Jul 31, 2012)

@ Alexis 

Thanks!

Any tips for adjusting focus target would be appreciated.

@ Wolfman
Thank you
I have rewarded while in motion. I started rewarding in stationary position to get rid of the hydraulic sits. I think like everyone has said its the targeting of my face that throws everything off.


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## Packen (Sep 14, 2008)

Many ways to skin the cat, here is one I am using,

1. No electric when moving in straight line
2. Use ball to target and reward while dog target
3. When dog in forging/crab position, turn sharp left/stop + high momentary stim

So reward comes in straight line, stops and/or turns as long as dog is in perfect position. Crrection only comes when dog is VERY clearly out of position (your quick left and stop will throw her very clearly out of position). Next time when she beats the correction, big reward. They learn fast.


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## Blitzkrieg1 (Jul 31, 2012)

I like it, Ill give this a shot.

Any tips on changing the target to my shoulder/armpit? I have tried but it was a losing proposition as she reverts back to her foundation when the visual lure is removed.


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## scarfish (Apr 9, 2013)

nice work. my dogs suck compared to that.

you should also put the youtube video link between youtube tags to embeb the video. at least half the people won't bother clicking an external link.


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## Packen (Sep 14, 2008)

Blitzkrieg1 said:


> I like it, Ill give this a shot.
> 
> Any tips on changing the target to my shoulder/armpit? I have tried but it was a losing proposition as she reverts back to her foundation when the visual lure is removed.


Two things,
1. It takes time even when doing it right
2. Read 1 one more time (don't even take 1 more step when your mind sez she is out of position), take corrective action immediately


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