# How do I stop leash pulling??



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Ok... So I am at a loss and I have tried everything I know how to do so now I'm asking you all for ideas on this. Maxx has been leash training since he was 8 1/2 weeks old with me and he does great sometimes, but the rest of the time he pulls like no ones business! He knows the heel command (still need to work on that obviously..) and since he gets treated when he heels what he does now is heel next to me for like 2 minutes and then gets his treat, then pulls ahead and goes to smell something and then when I call him back to heel then he will SOMETIMES come back into position. I have tried a harness and I have tried the reverse walking method and nothing I have tried has given me success  

I need some other ideas on how to stop him from pulling me on the leash... Please help me!!! 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## trcy (Mar 1, 2013)

I use a training caller. Which is a chain type not a prong. He does not get treats for heeling. He gets corrections when he does not heel and positive words when he heels. If he's pulling spin quickly and when he comes up to my side again I say good heel. I had to do that about 4 times before our last training class. I think he was excited to be there, but he dialed in. 

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...&sa=X&ei=cAhSUrzNLunFiwK5tYBg&ved=0CF0Q9QEwBQ


----------



## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

I would recommend the short book "My Dog Pull What Do I do?" by Turid Rugaas. I also use a front ring harness and the Walk In Sync - The Easiest and Most Humane Way to Walk and Train Your Dog - Home - there is a video on the website that explains the method.


----------



## zyppi (Jun 2, 2006)

defeat the joy of being out front.

You'll get dizzy, but what's worked for me is, the second there is tension on the lead, turn and head the other direction. your dog will then try get in front and then you'll have to turn again.

You're dog will finally realize the futility of forging ahead.

Did I say, you'll get dizzy?


----------



## Chance88 (Oct 5, 2013)

Basically, you're nagging your dog into some hope for you that he'll eventually submit to your wishes. The most effective way to cure the issue you're describing is with a prong collar. Think of it as power steering for your dog.

I know there's a negative connotation with the very idea of using a prong (or pinch) collar, but properly understood, sized and used, you'll never want to move away from it as a training aid.

If you decide to switch to it, do the things he already knows how to do (old) with the prong collar (new). For example, if he knows how to sit on command, have him sit with the prong collar (basically, set him up for success from the beginning). He'll associate the absence of a pinch with doing the right thing and when you move to what he's having trouble with now (such as heeling), he'll quickly (and properly) associate the absence of the pinch with what he's doing properly.


----------



## AugustGSD (Mar 29, 2013)

Have you tried not giving him a treat until your walk in finished? From what you wrote it seems like he does just enough to get his treat.


----------



## Baileysowner (Jun 15, 2013)

Try a prong collar 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Sunflowers (Feb 17, 2012)

Have you tried this harness?

Amazon.com: SENSE-ation No-Pull Dog Harness - Black: Pet Supplies

Your dog is 5 months old.

Worked very well for us at that age. I would wait a couple of months before using a prong


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Sunflowers said:


> Have you tried this harness?
> 
> Amazon.com: SENSE-ation No-Pull Dog Harness - Black: Pet Supplies
> 
> ...


No I haven't tried it, but i will look into it!! Thank you!! 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## GreenCo (Sep 26, 2013)

I don't feel I should be giving advice as I'm a new owner myself but I can tell you that a prong collar corrected this immediately. 

They do not look nice and everyone has an opinion on them. I didn't get one for the first month even though the trainer recommended I do so. They just don't look nice and looks like it would cause pain to the dog. Well now when he wants to go for a walk (which is every second of everyday) he goes and gets it throws it into the living room, goes back and gets his leash and my shoes and throws them into a pile in the middle of the living room. He gathers everything he knows we needs for a walk and then comes and gets me to let me know. It's kinda funny. If the prong collar hurt him in any way he wouldn't be gathering it for his walk. Made a huge difference with my guy. We only use it now when he's overly excited, otherwise he's got a nice harness.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Mary Beth said:


> I would recommend the short book "My Dog Pull What Do I do?" by Turid Rugaas. I also use a front ring harness and the Walk In Sync - The Easiest and Most Humane Way to Walk and Train Your Dog - Home - there is a video on the website that explains the method.


I just looked that book up and I like the method that she has. I think that would be great to do all with a sound. 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

zyppi said:


> defeat the joy of being out front.
> 
> You'll get dizzy, but what's worked for me is, the second there is tension on the lead, turn and head the other direction. your dog will then try get in front and then you'll have to turn again.
> 
> ...


I have tried that... And maxx goes nuts! It's like a child that wants a toy and you take them away from it... And he starts whining and jumping, barking the whole nine yards... 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

AugustGSD said:


> Have you tried not giving him a treat until your walk in finished? From what you wrote it seems like he does just enough to get his treat.


Yes I have tried that. I have tried not giving him anything until we get home. And the same thing happens, he will walk next to me and then I will praise him, then he goes back to pulling to get somewhere... Maybe I should try some higher value treats? Ones that will keep his attention on me? 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Chance88 said:


> Basically, you're nagging your dog into some hope for you that he'll eventually submit to your wishes. The most effective way to cure the issue you're describing is with a prong collar. Think of it as power steering for your dog.
> 
> I know there's a negative connotation with the very idea of using a prong (or pinch) collar, but properly understood, sized and used, you'll never want to move away from it as a training aid.
> 
> If you decide to switch to it, do the things he already knows how to do (old) with the prong collar (new). For example, if he knows how to sit on command, have him sit with the prong collar (basically, set him up for success from the beginning). He'll associate the absence of a pinch with doing the right thing and when you move to what he's having trouble with now (such as heeling), he'll quickly (and properly) associate the absence of the pinch with what he's doing properly.


I have used a prong collar with all my other dogs and I have always been successful with them. I was just hoping that i wouldn't have to use one of those this time... That's why i started with him when he was like 9 weeks old. But if I run out of all other options then i will get the prong out 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

GreenCo said:


> I don't feel I should be giving advice as I'm a new owner myself but I can tell you that a prong collar corrected this immediately.
> 
> They do not look nice and everyone has an opinion on them. I didn't get one for the first month even though the trainer recommended I do so. They just don't look nice and looks like it would cause pain to the dog. Well now when he wants to go for a walk (which is every second of everyday) he goes and gets it throws it into the living room, goes back and gets his leash and my shoes and throws them into a pile in the middle of the living room. He gathers everything he knows we needs for a walk and then comes and gets me to let me know. It's kinda funny. If the prong collar hurt him in any way he wouldn't be gathering it for his walk. Made a huge difference with my guy. We only use it now when he's overly excited, otherwise he's got a nice harness.


Yeah they do work amazingly if used properly and the timing for the correction is key. Like I said I have used them on my other dogs and I don't feel anything negative about them. But all my other dogs were adults and they had never walked on a leash before so the prong was very crucial. I guess i will look into that one too


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Lucy Dog (Aug 10, 2008)

How old is he? I wouldn't even think about putting a prong on a puppy before 6-8 months. And that would be after a no pull (easy walk) harness wasn't working.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Lucy Dog said:


> How old is he? I wouldn't even think about putting a prong on a puppy before 6-8 months. And that would be after a no pull (easy walk) harness wasn't working.


He just turned 5 months last Saturday... Yeah I was hoping that I could try more things then that and only use that as my last resort 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Lucy Dog (Aug 10, 2008)

Try an easy walk harness. He's too young for corrections. Keep it positive and work on the training. Do you have him in an obedience class?


----------



## MyHans-someBoy (Feb 23, 2013)

Not sure if I saw this mentioned or not...
Hans was a totally unmannered, out of control, pulling nightmare (kennel dog) at 1 1/2 years old when I adopted him. He has gotten a whole lot better loose leash walking over the last several months, but sometimes will catch the scent of another animal and start pulling. You can tell he's really excited by the huffing he does as he pulls along, lol. My trainer told me to heel him immediately when he starts pulling, but you've tried that without success. What has worked for us is to instead of heeling him, I tell him to sit/stay and this gives him a minute or two to calm down. Then we go to heeling and then back to loose leash walking. Might be worth a try if you haven't already. I keep high value treats with me, so he gets one and a bunch of praise for calming down after the sit/stay. Just a thought.


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Waldi (Jun 14, 2013)

Lucy Dog said:


> Try an easy walk harness. He's too young for corrections. Keep it positive and work on the training. Do you have him in an obedience class?


 
I agree, use eazy walk harness (they are the one with loopup front) works like a charm (did it for my 5 month old than) my puppy responded very well I would not go to prong collar for young puppy.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Lucy Dog said:


> Try an easy walk harness. He's too young for corrections. Keep it positive and work on the training. Do you have him in an obedience class?


I keep everything positive as much as I can ya know? Pretty much everything is praise and treated that is wanted behavior. I don't have him in any classes but we do work on training everyday here at home. 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

MyHans-someBoy said:


> Not sure if I saw this mentioned or not...
> Hans was a totally unmannered, out of control, pulling nightmare (kennel dog) at 1 1/2 years old when I adopted him. He has gotten a whole lot better loose leash walking over the last several months, but sometimes will catch the scent of another animal and start pulling. You can tell he's really excited by the huffing he does as he pulls along, lol. My trainer told me to heel him immediately when he starts pulling, but you've tried that without success. What has worked for us is to instead of heeling him, I tell him to sit/stay and this gives him a minute or two to calm down. Then we go to heeling and then back to loose leash walking. Might be worth a try if you haven't already. I keep high value treats with me, so he gets one and a bunch of praise for calming down after the sit/stay. Just a thought.
> 
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


He does his sit stay most of the time perfectly. When I stop I don't have to say anything, he will just sit. So I thought maybe if i did that then call him to heel and then he will walk sometimes ok and then we start walking good and then like yours he will pull to smell the grass or something. 

I am curious though.. What high value treats do you use? 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Waldi said:


> I agree, use eazy walk harness (they are the one with loopup front) works like a charm (did it for my 5 month old than) my puppy responded very well I would not go to prong collar for young puppy.


Is it better to have the one that clips on in the front or the back? I'm sorry I'm asking so many questions.. I just want to know how it would be better to have the clip in the front instead of the clip on the back?? 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## jjk454ss (Mar 26, 2013)

loveformygermanshepherd said:


> Is it better to have the one that clips on in the front or the back? I'm sorry I'm asking so many questions.. I just want to know how it would be better to have the clip in the front instead of the clip on the back??
> 
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


For this you want the font clip, the other will likely make him pull more


----------



## Sunflowers (Feb 17, 2012)

Regular ones actually stimulate pulling. They feel as if they are being held back, so the instinct is to pull harder.
Ever seen the Iditarod dogs?

The one I linked above turns them around when they start to pull. So it stops the pulling because they realize 
that they can't go forward if they pull. Pretty ingenious, actually.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Sunflowers said:


> Regular ones actually stimulate pulling. They feel as if they are being held back, so the instinct is to pull harder.
> Ever seen the Iditarod dogs?
> 
> The one I linked above turns them around when they start to pull. So it stops the pulling because they realize
> that they can't go forward if they pull. Pretty ingenious, actually.


Perfect!! Ok, well I'm going to head yo Petsmart today and pick one up and see what happens  

Now any suggestions on a HIGH value treat to keep him focused?? 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## MyHans-someBoy (Feb 23, 2013)

Hans likes regular dog biscuits ok, but doesn't place a high enough value on them to train with. However, he LOVES Stewart brand 100% Pure Beef Liver Treats. They can be found at Petsmart. They are freeze dried so you can stick them in your pocket etc. without having a big mess. I think the big tub of them was around $23.00 but it has 300 pieces and you can easily break the pieces into even smaller pieces for a better value.




Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## RICO (Oct 11, 2011)

My GSD has always been a puller. He I used to be impossible to walk, as I am only a little over 100lbs. I had tried prong collars, training collars, harnesses, even wrapping the leash around his belly, and still nothing worked. I decided to try a head halter and it's been a life saver! Just my personal experience, but I found it to be a great inexpensive solution. And now I can enjoy walking my dog. The only thing I do not like is the fact that at first glance it looks like a muzzle... That seems to put people on edge.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

RICO said:


> My GSD has always been a puller. He I used to be impossible to walk, as I am only a little over 100lbs. I had tried prong collars, training collars, harnesses, even wrapping the leash around his belly, and still nothing worked. I decided to try a head halter and it's been a life saver! Just my personal experience, but I found it to be a great inexpensive solution. And now I can enjoy walking my dog. The only thing I do not like is the fact that at first glance it looks like a muzzle... That seems to put people on edge.


Yeah I was looking at one of those just now when I was looking for the harness, and I was saying to myself that that might be another option if this doesn't work. And I thought i could take maxx into Petsmart with me until he went crazy mad with another dog and then started lunging at it... I was in shock!!!! I had to leave him in the car with my husband  I don't know why all of a sudden he HATES other dogs... 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## RICO (Oct 11, 2011)

loveformygermanshepherd said:


> Yeah I was looking at one of those just now when I was looking for the harness, and I was saying to myself that that might be another option if this doesn't work. And I thought i could take maxx into Petsmart with me until he went crazy mad with another dog and then started lunging at it... I was in shock!!!! I had to leave him in the car with my husband  I don't know why all of a sudden he HATES other dogs...
> 
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


In my honest opinion I'd try the head halter first, especially if your dog is a pretty bad puller. My boy is very headstrong and pulled through everything else except the head halter. With a harness he'd pull to the point where he'd be walking on his back legs only. But my dog is similar to yours it sounds. He never took into socializing with other dogs, except my parents dog. In my dogs case it's the initial face-to-face, he is muzzled when he first meets other dogs, then about 5-10 minutes later we are able to remove the muzzle and he's fine. But I don't take him to dog parks or pet stores, it's just too much.


----------



## Chantald (Jul 23, 2013)

I also have a head harness that we use on occasion. Our pup isn't too bad of a puller to begin with, but easily distracted so on occasion will dart to the side or try and pull up ahead, especially when he sees other dogs. He's never pulling my arms out of my sockets or dragging me off my feet, but I do on occasion have to channel balance and strength haha.

The head harness does work well, but it takes a while for a dog to get used to. Thor spent a lot of time dropping to the ground, and pawing at it or rolling his face on the ground to try and pull it off. So you really need to move slow with it, first let him sniff at it while treating. Practice putting it on and off while treating. Work your way up to walking around the back yard until he becomes accustomed and then try a walk. Also make sure it is strapped tightly enough that it can't slip off and that there's a back up connector to your dogs collar as well.

Thor walks really well with it on, though it doesn't actually teach him to walk better. So my experience is that it's a good management tool but not a training tool.


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

RICO said:


> In my honest opinion I'd try the head halter first, especially if your dog is a pretty bad puller. My boy is very headstrong and pulled through everything else except the head halter. With a harness he'd pull to the point where he'd be walking on his back legs only. But my dog is similar to yours it sounds. He never took into socializing with other dogs, except my parents dog. In my dogs case it's the initial face-to-face, he is muzzled when he first meets other dogs, then about 5-10 minutes later we are able to remove the muzzle and he's fine. But I don't take him to dog parks or pet stores, it's just too much.


Ok, well I already bought the easy walk harness so I'll see how he does then and then if that doesn't work then I'll try the head halter 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Bequavious (Mar 9, 2013)

I use cheese for my girl, but our trainer brought steak to class last week and she worked ten times harder for that lol! I would try working in some lower distraction areas until he has some more practice. We started in just an empty field and then moved to taking walks in a lower traffic park. Now we go just around the neighborhood and all the other practice definitely helps her stay focused (especially since her food drive isn't super high).

I think a lot of puppies go through a period where they're nervous around other dogs, but GSDs just sound way scarier during that time lol. Just socialize/desensitize and he should grow out of it with no problems. 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

With the head halter, they generally don't like it right? Because I actually bought both of them and I tried the head one tonight and he did good on it but flipped a old with it and was trying to get it off. I was just redirecting him and treating him when he would stop reacting to it... Is that right or should I be doing something else with him when he tries to fight it?? 

Btw.. Other then the occasional freak out it was a rather pleasant walk, so thank you all for all the suggestions!! 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Bequavious said:


> I use cheese for my girl, but our trainer brought steak to class last week and she worked ten times harder for that lol! I would try working in some lower distraction areas until he has some more practice. We started in just an empty field and then moved to taking walks in a lower traffic park. Now we go just around the neighborhood and all the other practice definitely helps her stay focused (especially since her food drive isn't super high).
> 
> I think a lot of puppies go through a period where they're nervous around other dogs, but GSDs just sound way scarier during that time lol. Just socialize/desensitize and he should grow out of it with no problems.
> 
> ...


Steak would be awesome!!! Haha right now he's really liking chicken  


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## marshies (May 18, 2011)

I prefer the easy walk harness over the head halter for casual walks. This is because the harness gives them more freedom to move about and sniff things. I tried the 2 types of harness (easy walk and freedom), 2 head halters (halti and gentle leader) and a prong. Of the bunch, we are still using the easy walk harness and halti. We use the halti when she is in training and I need control of her head, or when we are going somewhere with a lot going on and I want to limit her ability to make potentially poor choices. She walks perfectly on the easy walk harness now at 2, and I see no reason to switch. 

In the beginning though, she did still pull on the harness. I just made sure I stopped moving, or turned around (pick one and stick it out). She understood soon enough.


----------



## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

marshies said:


> I prefer the easy walk harness over the head halter for casual walks. This is because the harness gives them more freedom to move about and sniff things. I tried the 2 types of harness (easy walk and freedom), 2 head halters (halti and gentle leader) and a prong. Of the bunch, we are still using the easy walk harness and halti. We use the halti when she is in training and I need control of her head, or when we are going somewhere with a lot going on and I want to limit her ability to make potentially poor choices. She walks perfectly on the easy walk harness now at 2, and I see no reason to switch.
> 
> *In the beginning though, she did still pull on the harness. I just made sure I stopped moving, or turned around (pick one and stick it out). She understood **soon enough.*


I agree completely. I use a front ring harness (the Gentle Leader didn't fit my Sting well so I use the Walk In Sync) but what is important is the training. The harness alone (or any tool for that matter) will not work by magic -it takes work and continual practice, each and every time so the dog learns that pulling isn't going to get him to where he wants to go. I did the same and the Walk In Sync did come with a leash and training videos which helped. It is easy to give up and blame the tool, and then switch, and sometimes just the newness of the new tool will work, then the dog goes back to the old habit of pulling and the cycle continues, that tool is discarded and a new one is bought, when all along what is needed is the constant practice until the dog learns.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

marshies said:


> I prefer the easy walk harness over the head halter for casual walks. This is because the harness gives them more freedom to move about and sniff things. I tried the 2 types of harness (easy walk and freedom), 2 head halters (halti and gentle leader) and a prong. Of the bunch, we are still using the easy walk harness and halti. We use the halti when she is in training and I need control of her head, or when we are going somewhere with a lot going on and I want to limit her ability to make potentially poor choices. She walks perfectly on the easy walk harness now at 2, and I see no reason to switch.
> 
> In the beginning though, she did still pull on the harness. I just made sure I stopped moving, or turned around (pick one and stick it out). She understood soon enough.


I haven't tried the harness just yet, only the halti. I plan on using the harness soon but for now I like the halti and the concept of that. I allow him to still out his head down and walk with ease. He only gets corrected when he starts to pull and then he turns into a bucking bronco! Lol and once he stops pulling or comes back to me he gets treated and we continue on our way  


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Mary Beth said:


> I agree completely. I use a front ring harness (the Gentle Leader didn't fit my Sting well so I use the Walk In Sync) but what is important is the training. The harness alone (or any tool for that matter) will not work by magic -it takes work and continual practice, each and every time so the dog learns that pulling isn't going to get him to where he wants to go. I did the same and the Walk In Sync did come with a leash and training videos which helped. It is easy to give up and blame the tool, and then switch, and sometimes just the newness of the new tool will work, then the dog goes back to the old habit of pulling and the cycle continues, that tool is discarded and a new one is bought, when all along what is needed is the constant practice until the dog learns.


I agree about changing the tool too soon because it doesn't work "magic" lol I am not a patient person as it is, but I have dug deep to find unused patience with my maxx!!  

I couldn't decide on which one of the collars to get, either the gentle leader or the head halter so I got both and after doing research and all of the halti I like that concept better because they said that it actually relaxes the dog or something. And because maxx is very reactive of other people and other dogs I liked the concept of being able to control his head and have him redirected to me instead of focusing on the distraction. So far I like it and I feel like I am back in control of him on the walk 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Shade (Feb 20, 2012)

I've used the Halti on multiple dogs with good results. Most do not like it at first, really work on counter conditioning it with good things and he should accept it shortly


----------



## Bequavious (Mar 9, 2013)

loveformygermanshepherd said:


> With the head halter, they generally don't like it right? Because I actually bought both of them and I tried the head one tonight and he did good on it but flipped a old with it and was trying to get it off. I was just redirecting him and treating him when he would stop reacting to it... Is that right or should I be doing something else with him when he tries to fight it??
> 
> Btw.. Other then the occasional freak out it was a rather pleasant walk, so thank you all for all the suggestions!!
> 
> ...


We tried the gentle leader with our lab, and he HATED it! We tried all kinds of things to condition him to it, but he got super depressed on walks and started hiding whenever we would get it out. He ended up eating it (it fell off the counter too close to his crate one night...), and we replaced it with a prong. The prong didn't require any conditioning for him to accept it, and we were able to train him to walk perfectly with it (he really loves it now and gets all excited when we pull it out lol!) Now with my GSD puppy I just use a nylon slip collar, since she's more sensitive. I know every dog is different, so the head halter might work great for you; I just wanted to share my experience since it was so different from everyone else on here 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Shade said:


> I've used the Halti on multiple dogs with good results. Most do not like it at first, really work on counter conditioning it with good things and he should accept it shortly


Thank you!!! I am hoping that he will accept it soon  


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Bequavious said:


> We tried the gentle leader with our lab, and he HATED it! We tried all kinds of things to condition him to it, but he got super depressed on walks and started hiding whenever we would get it out. He ended up eating it (it fell off the counter too close to his crate one night...), and we replaced it with a prong. The prong didn't require any conditioning for him to accept it, and we were able to train him to walk perfectly with it (he really loves it now and gets all excited when we pull it out lol!) Now with my GSD puppy I just use a nylon slip collar, since she's more sensitive. I know every dog is different, so the head halter might work great for you; I just wanted to share my experience since it was so different from everyone else on here
> 
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


The prong collar has saved me so many times with all my rescue pittbulls and my rottie that I had. I am so all for them because as long as they are used correctly they can be great and effective! See... With maxx it has been so strange, a month ago he walked beautifully on the leash and then one day he was like ummm no... I'm not doing this anymore. Lol and I feel like if the head halter or the gentle leader didn't work then I was getting the prong out  



Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

loveformygermanshepherd said:


> Ok... So I am at a loss and I have tried everything I know how to do so now I'm asking you all for ideas on this. Maxx has been leash training since he was 8 1/2 weeks old with me and he does great sometimes, but the rest of the time he pulls like no ones business!


Since he's now 5 months old, you've only been working on this for less than 3 months. That may seem like a long time, but when you start with a very young puppy who has practically no attention span whatsoever, that's really not a long time at all. If you start now and spend that same amount of time _very diligently_ working on leash skills, he could be walking beautifully on leash with you 3 months from now. Keep your expectations reasonable based on the age, stage of development, and amount of training you've done, and it will help you not get so frustrated. 



> He knows the heel command (still need to work on that obviously..) and since he gets treated when he heels what he does now is heel next to me for like 2 minutes and then gets his treat, then pulls ahead and goes to smell something and then when I call him back to heel then he will SOMETIMES come back into position. I have tried a harness and I have tried the reverse walking method and nothing I have tried has given me success


If he still needs work on the heel command, then he doesn't really "know" it yet! And that's fine, you just need to keep working on it. But from what you describe, your criteria are WAY too high. For one thing, even if your goal is for him to remain in perfect heel position for the duration of a walk (a pretty advanced skill, not to mention extremely boring for the dog), you don't start by expecting 2 minutes of heeling with a 5 month old puppy before being rewarded. 

I actually rarely use the heel command at all, but I do have very clear criteria for a loose leash walk. I don't need constant attention, although it's nice if the dog is aware of me at the other end of the leash and looks up at me from time to time, they can be a foot or two from my left side, and the leash needs to be slack - no forging ahead or lagging behind. As far as position goes, anywhere from the dogs head to about mid-rib cage next to my leg is fine. If they get to where their rear leg is lined up with mine, that's too far, and I start walking backwards. 

So the first thing I'd do is think about what YOUR criteria are going to be (and keep it reasonable!), and then reinforce that, highly at first. You say you've tried a number of things that "don't work", but how long did you try them for? If it was just a few times, or even on a couple of walks, that's not long enough. In order for something to sink in, such as walking backwards if he forges ahead, (penalty yards - he's getting further away from things that he's pulling towards), you need to try it for a couple of weeks. If there's truly NO progress at all, (and I'm not talking about perfection, I'm talking about incremental progress), then go ahead and try something else. But I suspect that if you do really give it time to work, it will. In order for him to understand that pulling won't work to get him ahead, it has to NEVER work. You have to stick to your guns and be consistent, every single time you take him out. If it works once, you've just taught him that if he's persistent enough you'll give up and he'll get what he wants. 

What I like to do to help my dogs succeed is give them permission once in awhile to go ahead and sniff stuff. If they start to pull towards something interesting I make them come back, sit, and give my eye contact, and then I release them: "okay, go sniff", and let out the leash. Once I feel like they've had enough time to check it out, I say "let's go", and we continue our walk. Because they know if they obey the rules they get to do what they want, they're more likely to obey the rules. We're not in an adversarial relationship, with me always trying to prevent them from having any fun! But by putting it on cue, they're still doing what *I* want. 

Here's how I taught Halo to walk nicely on leash:

Silky Leash from Ahimsa Dog Training: Leash Walking Ahimsa Dog Blog

With Halo I used Silky Leash (#1), and #2 (rewarding for eye contact), #3 (rewarding for being in the sweet spot), and #4 (the Canine Cha Cha) to train leash skills. 

More on Silky Leash: Silky Leash Video – How to Train Leash Walking | Ahimsa Dog Blog

I also like Helix Fairweather's method of shaping polite leash skills. She has 3 steps, but I skipped over step one as too rudimentary, and went right to #2 and #3:











You can definitely use a combination of these techniques - shaping, as in Helix Fairweather's videos above, can be done at home. And Silky Leash starts out as foundation work in a low distraction room in your house.


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Cassidy's Mom said:


> Since he's now 5 months old, you've only been working on this for less than 3 months. That may seem like a long time, but when you start with a very young puppy who has practically no attention span whatsoever, that's really not a long time at all. If you start now and spend that same amount of time _very diligently_ working on leash skills, he could be walking beautifully on leash with you 3 months from now. Keep your expectations reasonable based on the age, stage of development, and amount of training you've done, and it will help you not get so frustrated.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I totally know and get what you mean about everything you said. I actually don't make him heel all the time, I only ask him to heel to train and then I will use the words ok go ahead or something and release the leash some for him to go and sniff. My only issue was the fact that he was pulling tons and with me being able to walk him only with my babies stroller in the morning then I was having difficult controlling him and also my baby stroller ya know? When I would try something I would at least try them 2 to 3 times a day for a least a week which is what the trainer told me, was that if they don't respond or you don't see ANY improvement then to move onto something else ( that he may or may not be receptive to it) but if that isn't correct then I will change my mind about that  

I honestly don't feel like I'm expecting too much out of him though... All I want is just for him not to pull me and IMO at 5 months old he should be able to do that almost all the time. Not saying that mistakes will happen  

I will check out those videos for sure!! Thank you for all the information!!!!  


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## mtmarabianz (Jan 7, 2010)

halti is so incredibly cruel on a dog's neck, just not normal

Prong, the dog self corrects, no correction needed
"Steering Wheel For A Dog" = NO nagging corrections, No Neck Discomfort

my bitch grew into a a 90+ #'s

at 4-5 months, I needed a prong not to dislocate my shoulder
so much kinder than the advise you get on a pet website


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

mtmarabianz said:


> halti is so incredibly cruel on a dog's neck, just not normal
> 
> Prong, the dog self corrects, no correction needed
> "Steering Wheel For A Dog" = NO nagging corrections, No Neck Discomfort
> ...


With a halti you don't give a nasty correction so that it doesn't hurt the dogs neck. It is gentle correction and all if the research that I did I didn't see any damage done to dogs if the halti was used correctly ( as most tools out there) 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## Mary Beth (Apr 17, 2010)

I agree if used correctly. My vet recommends the Halti. Also a prong is not all sweetness and light either - it does work by inflicting discomfort nor does it work for every dog. Some dogs simply pull thru the discomfort or lunge and jerk the leash out of the handler's hands. My Sting is 130 lbs. and I am barely a 100 lbs. and he walks very nicely with a harness


----------



## loveformygermanshepherd (Aug 16, 2013)

Mary Beth said:


> I agree if used correctly. My vet recommends the Halti. Also a prong is not all sweetness and light either - it does work by inflicting discomfort nor does it work for every dog. Some dogs simply pull thru the discomfort or lunge and jerk the leash out of the handler's hands. My Sting is 130 lbs. and I am barely a 100 lbs. and he walks very nicely with a harness


Exactly  without you guys i would have never thought of the harness or the halti!! 


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------

