# OMG...my Dog is HORRIBLY AGGRESSIVE



## Ares2010 (Mar 14, 2010)

I can't take my dog anywhere with me...he is so aggressive and barks so much at other dogs...I am at a loss for what to do. He goes on walks and I reward him with treats if he is good. He pulls as well...even with the gentle leader. Can someone PLEASE point me in the right direction before I go crazy???


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## Thru the Viewfinder (Aug 8, 2011)

Are you sure its really aggression and not just him being overly excited?

Dakota yaps and howls and moans and groans when she sees other dogs, but she isn't being aggressive, she just SO BADLY wants to play. I'm think that to others they probably think she is a mean and nasty dog, though. She's seven, so I know she should behave better, but I'm not exactly sure how to train it out of her on my own.


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## Ares2010 (Mar 14, 2010)

That could be it...but I still need it to stop because I can't take him anywhere..he is 90 pounds and pulls me when he sees another dog at the pet store. We only take him there when he needs groomed or nails trimmed. We took him to visit the other dog we used to have...and he pretty much attacked him..it has only been 3 months since we adopted him out so I wouldn't think he would act that way. We had to put him back in the car because I thought he was going to hurt the other dog. Maybe he was asserting his dominance...I just can't control him. A harness just makes him pull more. I just need to know how to control him. Parks are out of the question because he barks and barks and barks at other dogs. I have to cross the street which is annoying. He needs I guess to be in an obedience class and manners class. He loves people but not other animals. I don't want to give up on him.


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## wolfstraum (May 2, 2003)

You need to train the dog. He needs to walk properly on a lead, he needs to pay attention. Headcollars and Harnesses are NOT ideal for training - they are bandaids. He does NOT need to go to the dog park and have doggie friends. You are his pack. You need to be the leader. There are many AKC clubs and Schutzhund clubs in Ohio- you need to get to one and get real life help.

Lee


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

Ares2010 said:


> He needs I guess to be in an obedience class and manners class.


Yes, he does. Are there any reactive dog classes near you?


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## Ares2010 (Mar 14, 2010)

Dog parks is not what I meant...walking in a park on a trail..I already know this breed is not good for dog parks. also not sure what you mean about real life help..sounds like you mean myself. He went through classes when he was small and remembers all of that. I have already talked to a trainer that would take him into his home for 3 weeks or do at home visits. its around $2,000..not cheap. I know they are an investment but we are not rolling in the dough at the moment. so if I can do it without a trainer that would be great. I can put the time in just need to have a starting point and know what works for the dog. Debbie I have not looked into any reactive classes yet. I was just searching around.


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## Anja1Blue (Feb 27, 2008)

No need to give up on him, but you need to do a couple of things immediately - ditch the harness/gentle leader, these are useless tools for your situation. Use a prong (pinch) collar ( learn how to fit it and use it) on walks and enroll in an OB class. A reactive dog class would be great, but not all places offer them, so look for the best trainer you can find using positive reinforcement. He needs to learn to behave in a group, so a group class is what you need. However, if he is too unruly and is turned down for this, you may have to consider private lessons, at least to begin with. But by and large he needs to learn to work with other canines present. Training BTW isn't just for the dog - it is also for you! You will learn leadership skills and work as a team. He doesn't see you as being the boss at the moment, and that has to change.
______________________________________
Susan

Anja SchH3 GSD
Conor GSD
Blue BH WH T1 GSD - waiting at the Bridge :angel:


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## Deuce (Oct 14, 2010)

I'm with everyone else on this one....first thing on the list is that he needs professional training.


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## Lixx (Dec 3, 2007)

Ares2010 said:


> He went through classes when he was small and remembers all of that. I have already talked to a trainer that would take him into his home for 3 weeks or do at home visits. its around $2,000..not cheap.


Training is never over. You have a dog who's challenged his boundaries and pushed right through them. Do not rely on him to 'remember' how he behaved as a puppy. Do you remember and act like you did in kindergarten? He needs to go back into school. Training is life long, not one set of an 8 week puppy class. 

I would NEVER advocate sending your dog away for training. 1) you don't really know what goes ion when you aren't there. 2) It won't help YOU handle YOUR dog. If you check this person out home visits may be a go. But I am sure there are far more reasonably priced trainers in your area if you spend more time searching. I would never pay $2000 for a dog training session, that's ridiculous imo.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Training classes, where are you located in Ohio? Maybe someone can give you names of some trainers in your area.


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## 1sttimeforgsd (Jul 29, 2010)

I would suggest a prong collar also. Just make sure that you have it on correctly. Leerburg has a video that shows the correct way that they should be worn. Good luck.


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

when did you get your dog? is this behaviour new?
how often are you training and socializing?? seek
professional help.



Ares2010 said:


> I can't take my dog anywhere with me...he is so aggressive and barks so much at other dogs...I am at a loss for what to do. He goes on walks and I reward him with treats if he is good. He pulls as well...even with the gentle leader. Can someone PLEASE point me in the right direction before I go crazy???


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## Snickelfritz (Feb 21, 2007)

I can only tell you what I learned from my trainer for a couple of classes. Couldn't afford more than that. 

This is literally all we did and it helped, allot.

Get the right fit choker collar, high up on the neck.

Get another hopefully well balanced dog with someone that can control their own dog if the situation arises.

Put your dog in a sit with that collar up high and you ready to pull hard fast and quick release when needed. Have person put their dog in a sit with the dogs sitting back to back.

If your dog tries to look at that dog, quick hard correction and release. Do it again and again and again until your dog relaxes. You have to pay attention and keep up the routine until your dog doesn't care that there's another dog there anymore. Eventually my dog layed down back to back next to the other GSD and didn't even bother looking at her. She submitted to the fact that she couldn't control me.

I hope this helps some. It took about 3 times 1/2 hour each time to get it through her thick skull lol. She did get rewarded heavily afterwards. Lots of stinky treats.


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## Snickelfritz (Feb 21, 2007)

We also traded dogs, and once in a while he'd take the handle of the leather leash and smack my dog over the muzzle, I know allot of people are going to be upset about that, but she's a "hard dog" and could care less. He only did it when he couldn't get her to focus with the hard correction.

I couldn't do it, I was afraid I'd hit her eyes. So it's up to you. He said under no circumstances to use your hands to smack across the muzzle. 

BTW, before anyone jumps all over me for the corrections, this is a highly recognized GSD Kennel / Protection Trainers. They've been in business for at least 20 years and we made great progress in three sessions.


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## Lakl (Jul 23, 2011)

As someone who has a dog reactive GSD, and went through ALL the training options with her, classes, trainers, behaviorist, and even boarding, I can tell you what I would and wouldn't do and what worked for me.

First, I do not recommend training classes. In classes, you are put into a setting with many other dogs, and your dog is over his comfort threshold from the get. You do not get focused training, because the trainer is having to address everyone and not just your dog. These did nothing to help us....

I sent my dog to boarded training for 4 weeks. She came back the exact same dog, except she was filthy, had lost weight, and I don't know what she was exposed to during this. The only thing good that came out of this was the introduction of the prong collar.

This is what I learned and did from the various trainers, classes, and behaviorist I worked with. Because of her strength and outbursts, I used a prong collar for correction. When learned to use properly, this is a great tool for training. As a puppy, I trained her with a clicker and treats, so she associated the clicker with positive reinforcement and what I was asking from her. We have several houses throughout my neighborhood with dog's behind chain linked fences, so I used these dogs to help me train. We did this everyday. We started at perhaps 30 yards away. She would see the dogs, but before she could react, I would correct her with the prong and say "aaah!" As soon as she looked back or responded to ME, I would click, and treat or praise. I read the book, "Control Unleashed" and used many of these methods. One is called "Look at that!". When we were at a comfortable distance where she could see the dog's, but not react, I would say, "Look at that!" and click and praise her for not reacting. This showed her that it was ok to check out the other dogs, and that she was safe, and didn't need to react. Any growl, bark, or attempt to react would get a quick reaction. Timing is key. It didn't take long for her to realize that reacting received a correction and NOT reacting received praise. She preferred the praise.

I'd also tried both these methods individually before this, and they did not work because 
1. She was too riled up to care about the stupid clicker and treats when she saw other dogs.
2. The prong gave a correction, but did not tell her why she was being corrected, and I did not want her to associate the correction with seeing other dogs instead of her behavior.

I was a first time GSD owner and it took a lot of time and training to figure out what worked for my dog. She is now 2 years old, and though I have come to understand that she will never be fully comfortable around strange dog's, we have both learned to control it. You will see when he understands what you are asking of him. It was very difficult for her in the beginning, but she tried very hard. Eventually we could walk past the fence without her reacting at all. She would walk at a fast past and try not to look over at the fence charging dogs. Eventually, the only correction I needed was "aaah!", instead of a pull on the collar. The prong sort of snaps them out of the reactive trance and pulls their focus back to YOU, and for me, the clicker showed her that focusing on me is what I wanted her to do.

I hope this helps some. If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me. Owning a reactive dog can be a lot of work, but it is all worth it in the end! Good luck!


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## Snickelfritz (Feb 21, 2007)

I agree with you Lakl, my trainer wouldn't put us in group classes either for the same reason.

He said my dog was fear reactive, she bit first asked questions later. Funny thing is, is she did bite a dog when she escaped once (hence my getting her into training) then acted like she wanted to play with that dog. Started barking like a puppy and running all around that poor leashed dog. Luckily it was my neighbor who said he could care less. I was freaking out on the other hand.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

I'm surprised with all these posts that the book Control Unleashed hasn't been suggested until Lakl posted. 
I would get a copy today and implement the exercises outlined in the book...The LAT game works, along with many other ways to manage a reactive dog. If you can find a class or trainer that works with this books exercise it will help. I went thru a CU class and the other dogs (6) were all reactive, by the end of the 8 weeks we were all good to go out in public for the most part and not have our dogs worried about the other dogs in their realm.
Prong collars can sometimes ramp up the reactivity in the dog, so if you use one, be aware of your corrections and timing of them. Redirecting the behavior BEFORE it begins by reading your dogs body language is a good way to help get the dog differential to other dogs or whatever he is reacting to. Many times just maturing in the dogs brain is a mellower of reactivity.


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## Ares2010 (Mar 14, 2010)

When we do walk him I am always on the lookout for other dogs and when I see him try to start going crazy I correct him...he does have a pinch collar but doesn't seem to help. I know that it is about training me as well. I have researched alot. I bought a dvd online for dog training and they make it sound so easy. The trainers sessions are 100 per hour and he comes to your house once a week..so 400 a month. His in home is the more expensive one. Not saying I am going to do this but something needs to be done. To be honest..when we walk him I do not get close enough to another dog to even see how he would behave...he just barks uncontrollably. He really is a sweet dog and loves people but not well socialized with other animals except our old dog we adopted out. He had pano for a long time so the vet said do not walk him so we didn't in fear it would make the condition worse. He was in the house all the time..we were just doing what we were told. I forget what the dvd was called, but he got good reviews so maybe I will watch the rest of it and see what I can do. Thanks for the advice


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## fgshepherd (Sep 1, 2010)

My dog is somewhat dog-reactive. He used to be extremely dog reactive, but he's gotten a LOT better. What I find that works well, is take him for LOOOONNNG walks to get his energy out, and make sure that there are dogs along the way. The more Rocky got used to seeing other dogs, the less likely he was to flare up. Especially if he walked out a lot of energy. Also, if you have a very good, kind, nice friend who has a dog you can 'borrow' as a stooge, you could have controlled meetings. I did that with my friend who has a very good GSD, and Rocky of course flared up at first, but then settled down within about five minutes. It was a miracle. Please don't give up on your dog, he probably is just very high energy and people think GSD's are mean and aggressive, and most of them are the opposite! I tried a 'calm and control' class, and it did nothing but make Rocky bark his head off and try to get to the other dogs (who were very well behaved, I have no clue why they were in that class!).


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## KSdogowner (Jun 22, 2011)

Lakl said:


> . As a puppy, I trained her with a clicker and treats, so she associated the clicker with positive reinforcement and what I was asking from her. We have several houses throughout my neighborhood with dog's behind chain linked fences, so I used these dogs to help me train. We did this everyday. We started at perhaps 30 yards away. She would see the dogs, but before she could react, I would correct her with the prong and say "aaah!" As soon as she looked back or responded to ME, I would click, and treat or praise. I read the book, "Control Unleashed" and used many of these methods. One is called "Look at that!". When we were at a comfortable distance where she could see the dog's, but not react, I would say, "Look at that!" and click and praise her for not reacting. This showed her that it was ok to check out the other dogs, and that she was safe, and didn't need to react. Any growl, bark, or attempt to react would get a quick reaction. Timing is key. It didn't take long for her to realize that reacting received a correction and NOT reacting received praise. She preferred the praise.


This is excellent advise in my opinion and what I am doing with Sophie (except the clicker) right now. I can tell you that is really DOES work. Wishing you much success in helping your girl become more comfortable with other animals.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

You are correcting him when he goes crazy for the other dogs, he may see the correction as coming from those dogs... Better to watch his body language and redirect him before he goes crazy, then no correction is needed. Also with the LAT game, you are showing him that what he is reacting to is NO BIG DEAL! Look at Turid Rugaas site, she has a dvd on youtube on dog communication. Also the LAT game is something worth trying, especially if you cannot afford to get with a trainer. If the links I provided don't work, google for more links and information...there is lots out there.


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## Ares2010 (Mar 14, 2010)

Ok..I will look at the LAT thing...it seems to have came up a lot in this discussion. Thanks


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## codmaster (Aug 5, 2009)

I also have a male 3.5 yo sometimes dog reactive GSD. He esp. doesn't like another slightly older male GSD who is in our weekly meeting GSD training group. Has barked and lunged at this dog for the better part of two years (since they both matured!) tried two different PO trainers and a PO behaviorist in group and also private lessons. behaviorist even gave us two private lessons with the LAT method and much treating (used muzzles for close ups as these two dogs, mine especially!) were very serious and meant business when they lunged at each other. Most of the time my dog was very very good with most other dogs generally either wanting to play or ignoring the other dogs even little ones who snapped at him. But not with other bigger dominat acting dogs.

Finally took him to a trainer who did a lot of ScH and police training. 

We just had a session yesterday with the owners and dogs - got them by the end of the session (1 hr!) to lay next to each other off leash and ignore each other. Turns out that the other GSD was pretty scared of my dog and my dog was "bully" (words of the trainer to me) who would try to jump on the other guy whenever he showed any fear.

Bestthing going for him was the often debated "Alpha Roll and pin down" look into the dogs eyes till he looked away ("you win" he indicated) then let him up slowly as soon as he calmed down and praise and let them go again (hence the need for muzzles). Had to do it twice (once was me doing it and the first the pro!). Baron, my dog, actually growled at the trainer in the first episode for a few seconds then you could see him give a big sigh and admit he lost and csalmed down. BTW, he did not growl or show any aggression to me whan I had to do it and gave in much quicker than to the trainer. It worked!

I would definetly NOT advocate trying this yourself and /or without a good muzzle on the dog - as it could get dangerous. But in the guidance of a pro who knows what they are doing- it may work even with a VERY low tolerance, hard tempered, sometimes aggressive dog. (like mine!).

Good luck!

BTW, I will probably never mention this training episode to one of the trainers since I still go to her for some training as she is a VERY good AKC obedience trainer (just not so much with big aggressive, butthead dogs!).

Also notice the vast improvement in just one lesson of about 1 hour. I realize it is not done yet, but the improvement was remarkable and something that the other owner and i will keep building on. My goal was obviously not to make these two dogs be buddy/buddy, just to learn to tolerate each other in a group setting and be safe to do a group stay (like tha AKC sits/downs in the trial ring). We are still working on it.


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## codmaster (Aug 5, 2009)

Ares2010 said:


> When we do walk him I am always on the lookout for other dogs and when I see him try to start going crazy I correct him...he does have a pinch collar but doesn't seem to help. I know that it is about training me as well. I have researched alot. I bought a dvd online for dog training and they make it sound so easy. The trainers sessions are 100 per hour and he comes to your house once a week..so 400 a month. His in home is the more expensive one. Not saying I am going to do this but something needs to be done. To be honest..when we walk him I do not get close enough to another dog to even see how he would behave...he just barks uncontrollably. He really is a sweet dog and loves people but not well socialized with other animals except our old dog we adopted out. He had pano for a long time so the vet said do not walk him so we didn't in fear it would make the condition worse. He was in the house all the time..we were just doing what we were told. I forget what the dvd was called, but he got good reviews so maybe I will watch the rest of it and see what I can do. Thanks for the advice


If the pinch collar doesn't work, I would suspect that 1 or 2 things or both are happening - your correction is either too little, too late or both. 

That is the kind of thing that a pro trainer would be of great help. That and also your whole attitude and body language which are extremely important. (I know from sad personal experience when the pro told me all the things that I was doing wrong and increasing the problem!).

But find a pro who deals with big aggressive dogs, preferably GSD's of course but if not around, then someone who has dealt a lot with these type of dogs. The first one I went to about aggression was fond of telling me about her "killer, overly aggrssive" 25 lb dog - not a real good comparison.


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

onyx'girl said:


> I'm surprised with all these posts that the book Control Unleashed hasn't been suggested until Lakl posted.
> I would get a copy today and implement the exercises outlined in the book...The LAT game works, along with many other ways to manage a reactive dog. If you can find a class or trainer that works with this books exercise it will help. I went thru a CU class and the other dogs (6) were all reactive, by the end of the 8 weeks we were all good to go out in public for the most part and not have our dogs worried about the other dogs in their realm.


Absolutely - a regular OB class would be too much, but the great thing about classes designed for reactive dogs is that they are very carefully controlled, to keep dogs under threshold. It's hard to do exercises like the LAT game when you're out in public because you run the risk of either not seeing other dogs at all (can't work on the reactivity if there are no other dogs around!) or there are too many dogs, or being in an environment where you can't be assured that you'll have the opportunity to work at a distance that your dog can handle, or that doesn't have good lines in sight in all directions and several exit routes if you need to get your dog out of there fast. A good class with an experienced trainer will be able to set up situations where your dog can succeed.


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## Lakl (Jul 23, 2011)

onyx'girl said:


> I'm surprised with all these posts that the book Control Unleashed hasn't been suggested until Lakl posted.
> I would get a copy today and implement the exercises outlined in the book...The LAT game works, along with many other ways to manage a reactive dog. If you can find a class or trainer that works with this books exercise it will help. I went thru a CU class and the other dogs (6) were all reactive, by the end of the 8 weeks we were all good to go out in public for the most part and not have our dogs worried about the other dogs in their realm.
> Prong collars can sometimes ramp up the reactivity in the dog, so if you use one, be aware of your corrections and timing of them. Redirecting the behavior BEFORE it begins by reading your dogs body language is a good way to help get the dog differential to other dogs or whatever he is reacting to. Many times just maturing in the dogs brain is a mellower of reactivity.


This was probably the best part about working with a behaviorist. She was able to point out to me the signs in my dogs behavior that I was unable to recognize before. This taught me how to read my dog and be able to time the corrections properly. Before that, she always seemed to catch me by surprise and we would have a control match where she was out of control and I was struggling to get control. By learning to read her body language, I was able to catch the reactions before they happened.


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## Cassidy's Mom (Mar 30, 2003)

Timing is everything! Learning to recognize the signs that they are ABOUT to blow, and being proactive to prevent it is crucial. Once the dog has started to react it's usually too late because they're no longer capable of paying attention to you and thinking rationally.


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## e.rigby (May 28, 2011)

Your best bet is to first have him evaluated by a training or dog behaviorist; figure out where his behavior is coming from.

A trainer can help teach you how to control him in situations where he reacts. LAT and BAT are great ways to deal with aggression; however, I'd seriously recommend working on the basics (loose leash walking, heeling, the 'watch me' command, and have a very solid sit)

PodeesAggression (Narrated) | drsophiayin.com - YouTube <-- that's a good video that offers training advice... however, it is not a substitute for consulting a trainer!


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## msvette2u (Mar 20, 2006)

We have a puppy right now and this is the best video I've seen. No jerking/choking/prongs, either. The dog needs to learn YOU first. Then add distractions later.
This video is amazing. 

Training A Puppy To Walk On A Leash - Loose Leash Walking For Young Puppies


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## msvette2u (Mar 20, 2006)

Here it is on Youtube - so simple, my 16y. old is doing it with her puppy now to teach him a loose leash walking.


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## dazedtrucker (May 2, 2011)

Ares2010 said:


> I can't take my dog anywhere with me...he is so aggressive and barks so much at other dogs...I am at a loss for what to do. He goes on walks and I reward him with treats if he is good. He pulls as well...even with the gentle leader. Can someone PLEASE point me in the right direction before I go crazy???


We are going through this sort of thing right now. It just started a couple weeks ago. I took him to a Petsmart when we went on vacation...he had never been to such a place  (I have worked hard to socialize, but resources are limited here) He acted like a raging maniac. I felt like a complete moron. He is VERY well trained, but it seems he has this on/off switch...He lost focus and acted HORRIBLE at that store. It is NOT aggression. When he gets to "meet" the other dogs, he gets along great. It is anxiety/stress related...he just wants to play with them.

Sooo.... I have worked very hard on this. The dog park HAS been a blessing. Yes, a prong collar is a must. He wants to go play...so when we get out of the car, he is pulling, acting a fool, barking like an idiot, I just sit down on the ground, using gentle (but attention getting) corrections, telling him "HUSH". When I have his attention (using sit, watch me, treats, etc...) we move on a bit. If he starts acting up again we stop again. Once he is "under control", then he gets to go play (which is all he wanted anyway). This is a summary, it may take a LONG repeat of this process to get your dog to learn what you are trying to teach him..LOL! We are not 100% yet, but he IS getting it. I wouldn't say it's horrible aggression, just normal dog behavior that requires alot of work to teach that it is not acceptable. And my dog goes to an obedience class...he performs flawlessly, off leash, around other dogs.We were told last week by the instructor we are way too advanced for beginning obedience... But yet, we have this issue when 1st walking up to other dogs. It's crazy  but not the end of the world. puppies 
If you can't do a trainer, try this...it's working for us. Just work at getting his attention, or his whole world comes to a halt. That's it in a nutshell. Prong collar provides you power steering, and used gently, an attention getter, when he is doing the DESIRED behavior- instant reward. Repeat. It works. I've been training dogs since I was a child. not an expert, but I do get results from experience.


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

wolfstraum said:


> You need to train the dog. He needs to walk properly on a lead, he needs to pay attention. Headcollars and Harnesses are NOT ideal for training - they are bandaids. He does NOT need to go to the dog park and have doggie friends. You are his pack. You need to be the leader. There are many AKC clubs and Schutzhund clubs in Ohio- you need to get to one and get real life help.
> 
> Lee


 
Yeah Lee , ms Wolfstraum. This should be chiseled in stone. I think a great deal of richness in the dog to person relationship goes missing when all we become is caterers and facilitators to dogs activities with each other . When did that all happen? YOU are his pack . It drives me crazy to see someone walking a dog full extension on the flexi lead while talking on the cell phone. NO connection whatsoever. Dog in one world, person in another.
Doggy day care where dogs are dropped off -- not for the GSD -- thank you very much.


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## debbiebrown (Apr 13, 2002)

i think the pinch collar would work if you use it correctly..........alot of dogs learn behaviors and if not corrected they continue to repeat what has worked in the past......

using the prong and teaching your dog to pay attention to where you are going can work nicely.........if the dog starts pulling using a prong correction and immediately changing directions so that the dog pays attention to you, most will soon learn to ignore things and that your the leader they need to be paying attention to......you can reward them once they are paying attention to you and are at your side ...............you can practice exercises like this at home first, then slowly add distractions.............i would suggest getting professional guidence and help setting up this tecnique so that you understand the timing of the exercise, etc........


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## Miss Molly May (Feb 19, 2010)

We had the same issue awhile back(8mths to 1year old) I bought Molly a prong collar and started making Molly lay down if she acted up. We spent many and many evenings walking by dogs purposely to correct this bad habit! Group obedience classes are a good place to start!


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## debbiebrown (Apr 13, 2002)

you first need to know exactly what your working with before you can attempt to fix it..........fearful aggressive, dominant behavior, etc, or the dog simply taking over and acting a certain way from a learned behavior that hasn't been addressed properly........professional guidence would be recommended for an evaluation first.............
For some dogs, especially fear based, putting them in a down would be intimidating in certain situations, so other methods would be the proticol.........


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## lrodptl (Nov 12, 2009)

IACP Home


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## trudy (Aug 25, 2008)

OK no one mentioned this BUT, you said you went to visit a dog you used to own????? First why do you no longer own that dog?? Was he given up so you could have this one??? Did it occur to you that dog was also stressed and upset and that is partly what set your new dog off??? Remember they read each other way better than we do. 

Perhaps its time to take charge, look up NILIF, Nothing In Life Is Free. If you are boss inside then you can train him to accept you as boss outside, but go slowly!!!!! Walk your yard/driveway etc to get control. Don't worry he needs more exercise, his brain is going to exhaust him. Go up and down never letting him be in fornt and keep that lead loose, soon as he pulls forward turn and go the other way, sharply, jerking him back. You can do it. I hope we don't have to read that you are taking another new dog to meet this old one too


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## Lakl (Jul 23, 2011)

Just a second note... If you have a local Humane Society, give them a call and see if they have a behaviorist. That is where I found mine, and she was not expensive at all. Our first session was free, and then we set up weekly classes for 9 weeks. I think it was $90 total? Humane Societies generally employ a behaviorist to assess the dogs coming in for placement, but they are not out there advertising their services to the general public.


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## CelticGlory (Jan 19, 2006)

Have you thought about starting from the basics, meaning starting over like he's never had training before? Maybe he never did. Not everyone is educated enough to know that a dog needs more than a 2-5 minute potty break/walk. Some people just let their dog out to potty and they go back into the house. Some dogs never get socialized with others. 

1. Set him to a solid schedule-potty time, walk time, food time, play time, down time, training time, bonding time, etc. Each thing has its own place and time. No toys or chews laying around out all of the time. -How is he with toys? Chews? Touching/petting? Feeding? 

2. Crate training is great and is not harmful to the dog at all. With proper crate training he will see it as his own place to go for his down time. 

3. Get a leather leash and collar and a clicker. Try clicker training.

4. Books and Videos are your friend! 

5. If you ever want him to meet dogs in the future (after a couple of training classes and when he's more leash trained), find dogs (without him around) that are calm dogs that are well balanced. All sizes (both genders, start with females first though and fixed females and males), met them at a distance and observe his reaction to them. He may or may not be leash reactive. I have more suggestions, but I will wait to hear your reply to the ones above first.

I'm a pro-prong person *IF* and *Only* if they are used properly. Do you know how to properly fit a prong collar and use one? Many assume it goes around the neck, but it doesn't. Leerburg | How to fit a Prong Collar

And I'm one of those people that assumed that it did. I feel so bad for my previous dog now. Although she walked great on the leash, that was her primary collar besides her leather collar. At least I now know the proper way to do it.


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## msvette2u (Mar 20, 2006)

This is a dog that should never be "alpha rolled". Especially by a family who has little experience with dominant dogs. Someone's going to lose a face. 
Ditto x 1000 to the post above this one - CelticGlory. Set a routine and do not take the dog out AT ALL until you've got him obeying and wanting to work for you in the home and in your own yard.


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## debbiebrown (Apr 13, 2002)

bottome line is most fear reactive dogs need a strong leader, one that is going to make decisions for them.....catching behaviors before they escalate........with my fear reactive dog if i think a situation is arising that he will react i change direction get his attention on me, with him, he is not allowed to look, because i know if he gets focused on something he feels threatened by he will react.........looking is fine if its a situation where you know your dog will not react, paying attention to every early signal.......there really is no set training for this problem, its knowing your dog, what he can handle, and bottom line you want your dogs attention on you, letting him know you are the safe place and you will handle things.........


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## Ava (Mar 18, 2011)

I just skimmed through most the posts and I agree with much of what was said, and several hit on some key points IMO. Bottom line is the dog must comply with your expectations. 

In an effort to not offend or contradict anyone, let's just say I just adopted your dog... I did not catch the age but I am assuming 1 to 2 years old, but anything over 6 months or so and my approach would be the same. Softer / more compliant dogs would move along quicker, harder / more stubborn dogs would take more patience.

I would implement strict *NOTHING* *In Life Is Free*, and I mean *NOTHING*. I would use the little dog prong collar, fitted properly of course (probably have to buy extra links). If I couldn't give 100% of my attention to the dog, he would be in the crate. The crate would never be used for punishment. I would make him sit calmly while I opened the crate door, any excitement or pawing at the door would be met with a stern NO, until he complied to the point of allowing me to open the door and attach the leash. If he repeatedly didn't comply I would wait 10 minutes or so and try again until he does. 

100% of the time out of the crate he would be on a 6 ft leash by my side. Anytime he fully extended the leash and pulled in the slightest, he would get a correction (leash pop) and a firm NO. Day 1, 2 and maybe 3 he would only be able to see one or two rooms in the house. If I had to go into a 3rd room, he would go in the crate until I could spend some time in the designated primary rooms. If I had to make a phone call and would be distracted from him, he would got into the crate.

For potty time I would take him to an outside designated area - on the leash and give him 100% slack. If he pulled I would pop and correct, NO. If he continues to pulled, pop harder, NO, until he complies. All the while encouraging him to go potty, and praise when he's finished. Then immediately go back inside. For at least a week outside time would be for potty only.

EVERYTIME I walked through a doorway, I would make him sit and wait. I would walk through, wait a few seconds and say OKAY while giggling the leash and give a slight pop if necessary to bring him along. I would start over every time he did not wait as requested. 

Again for day 1, 2 and maybe 3 I would walk him around many times in the designated rooms, demanding a slack leash and correcting any pulls while varying the leash slack. If he's sleeping, I would wake him up to go for a walk around the room. I would demand many stays while I walked around him and correct and pulls or distractions.

As the days go on, I would add additional rooms in the house and demand the same discipline. I would add or take back based on his behavior. The more he complies the more he gets to see. He would learn the ENTIRE den is mine and he must to behave as I want him to as well as be responsive to me.

After a week of showing compliance in the house, I would do the same in the yard - and break it down into small parts, a little more day by day. Once he was compliant in the house and yard, I would feel comfortable that he sees me as the alpha and begin to take him out more and take it one step at a time. Always on leash. Based on behavior I would transition to the flat collar as soon as possible and expect the same behavior. At this point he show know what "NO" means and respond as expected. Once compliant, I would add more and more off leash activity.

It may seem / feel a little bit mean, but it is not at all. It's really just a few weeks of focus on the dog's behavior to get him in line. He must respect me and know his place. The dog has to understand its place in the pack and the den before he sees anything else in the world. A few weeks of concentrated effort will set him straight. No treats or rewards for the basics. 

I believe clickers and treats are great for young pups for learning the basics, and older pups and even dogs for learning new things, but once I know they get it and I request it, as the alpha, they should comply - period. If they don't respond as requested I must see their behavior as a challenge or test and they must be corrected (not punished, but hey must understand they crossed the line).

I can sense you are overwhelmed by the dog, and no doubt the dog knows he's in charge or at least thinks he charge or wants to be in charge. No trainer or behaviorist will fix it. YOU have to take charge of the dog. Lot's of Michael Ellis's "yeses", "good boys", "good dogs" high pitched praises etc. when he's doing what he's supposed to do, and firm "NO's" when he's not. YOU must be the dominant figure to HIM. HE must know when his behavior is acceptable to YOU and when its not. Put in a few weeks of hard work and focus to you'll get years of enjoyment out of a happier dog in return.

It doesn't matter whether you're raising kids, managing employees or have a dog - boundaries must be set. If not, you'll likely have kids on drugs / pregnant or lazy, unproductive / thieving employees, or a dog that does not respect or listen to you and acts out. 

I have never seen a wolf give another wolf a treat for not chancing a cat or barking at a dog. You have to place yourself in the right position in the dog's mind and there's 1000 ways to do it.

Good luck.


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