# How to get my shepherd/retriever mix to not be afraid of guns



## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

I have a almost 6 year old German shepherd/golden retriever mix that is so deathly afraid of guns. When she sees it or hears it she will start to shake horribly and run and hide wherever she can to get away from it. 

What can I do?


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## Stonevintage (Aug 26, 2014)

I don't think you can. It's such a deeply ingrained fear and well set at her age. I would give her a break and put her in the house in a secure room when guns are used.

I've had 3 dogs with this problem. They will severely damage themselves to escape the sound that is apparently an absolute threat of imminent death to them.....


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

Thanks for the advice. I thought the same thing but wondered if maybe I was wrong. 

I assumed with her age there wasn't anything that would help. I did try a zen dog shirt to see if the compression would help it seemed to keep her from shaking so bad but didn't help with the fear.


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## Nigel (Jul 10, 2012)

How does she do with other loud noises?


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

The only other loud noises she doesn't like is fireworks. And I don't know a lot of dogs that do like fireworks.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Is there a reason the dog needs to be near gunfire? Is there a lot of gunfire near your home? 

i would start with a cap gun from a distance and have some one fire it. Do something the dog enjoys, play ball or do some fun obedience. Reward with a toy or food and lots of praise. It is very important that you do not coddle, or reassure the dog when it is anxious or nervous. If the dog has an adverse reaction, simply ignore it. Many people make the mistake of unintentionally fostering the anxiety by saying "it's ok" or "don't be nervous, fido." This actually tells the dog that being nervous or anxious or neurotic is correct; and the reassurance actually enforces the behavior. 

After you start from a distance with a fun game and a cap gun, barely audible, move closer as the dog is ignoring the noise. Make all of this a fun game. Then slowly progress to a small caliber gun and start at a distance again. Repeat the process, doing obedience and rewarding the dog when he is correct in his obedience. The praise and reward for a correct sit or down, the praise and reward should be very high. Imagine the dog has the winning $1 billion dollar powerball ticket in his mouth, how much would you praise the dog? That is how much you praise for the correct OB and ignoring the gunfire. 

It can be done with gunfire, fireworks are different.

I hope that helps.


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## CanineKarma (Jan 5, 2016)

How does the dog act during thunder storms?


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## Stonevintage (Aug 26, 2014)

Slamdunc said:


> It can be done with gunfire, fireworks are different.
> 
> I hope that helps.


Do you have success in your methods with a mid/senior dog as is this 6 year old?? Sounds good for a puppy though....


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Stonevintage said:


> Do you have success in your methods with a mid/senior dog as is this 6 year old?? Sounds good for a puppy though....


Yes! I have done this with older dogs. I have also done this with Patrol dogs that would become aggressive and target the person doing the shooting. I want Patrol dogs that are gunfire "neutral" and not targeting an Officer that my need to discharge a weapon in a gunfight. Being "gunfire neutral" also gives the handler the ability to down a calm dog during a shooting incident.


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## Stonevintage (Aug 26, 2014)

Slamdunc said:


> Yes! I have done this with older dogs. I have also done this with Patrol dogs that would become aggressive and target the person doing the shooting. I want Patrol dogs that are gunfire "neutral" and not targeting an Officer that my need to discharge a weapon in a gunfight. Being "gunfire neutral" also gives the handler the ability to down a calm dog during a shooting incident.


I believe you. I've just never seen a dog that wasn't reactive to fireworks that didn't also become reactive to gunfire. The two have always gone hand in hand. 

My dogs were always reactive to fireworks, but not initially gunfire. Then when they were initially around gunfire (3 years old), they weren't reactive the first few minutes - but then apparently decided it was another "air noise" that they couldn't track/source and reacted the same way.

I noticed you said fireworks are a different story though, so I'm happy to hear they can be taught to the difference. But - a 6 year old dog??


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

You can teach an old dog new tricks.  

I have seen dogs that were fine or neutral around gun fire but not so great around fireworks. 

One needs to be careful when exposing dogs to gunfire. My general rule of thumb is that if I am wearing ear pro the dog has cotton in it's ears. You do not want to bring a dog so close that the sound hurts their ears causing a negative association.


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## Stonevintage (Aug 26, 2014)

Maybe Jim, the question then for the OP should be how? and, if you are a professional law enforcement trainer - do you think the average dog owner could accomplish this?


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

Thank you all for your replies. It is all very helpful.

To answer the first question we live on a farm so my husband of course has guns for moles and other small animals digging holes in our yard, pasture and hay field and he also likes to hunt and shoot guns for fun. We also have lots of neighbors who also have guns and if she is outside and hears it she will run to the house. 

She is even afraid of the cap guns you are referring to use to start the process of getting her used to them. My nephews have them and they can't bring them out around her because she is afraid of them. 

It is definitely worth a try to see if I can use some of these techniques to see if it will atleast calm her alittle around them. 

Unfortunately I have coddled her in the past about it because I wasn't sure how to handle it but lately I have been not doing that and trying to make her deal with it by distracting her. 

I will try the cap gun from a distance technique this weekend and see what she does with this.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

I know at our local park there is a shooting range right next to it i mean right next to it. In the park you can hear those guns going off the closer to the range of course the louder it is. Max is so wound up in the excitement in going to park he doesn't mind it and equates the sound with fun although its very loud it is at distance that you can control how loud it gets by moving farther or closer to the range but maybe it is a good way to getting used to the noise if there is a similar set up in your area. If your dogs is obsessed with the ball orva toy maybe get him ball mode before and during any gun noise or if not ball or toy then treats.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

colbie10 said:


> Thank you all for your replies. It is all very helpful.
> 
> To answer the first question we live on a farm so my husband of course has guns for moles and other small animals digging holes in our yard, pasture and hay field and he also likes to hunt and shoot guns for fun. We also have lots of neighbors who also have guns and if she is outside and hears it she will run to the house.
> 
> ...



Good luck. It is not so much distracting her, but getting her to perform a behavior that she knows well, like sit. Once she sits, then you pay and praise. It is more about focusing the dog on a proper behavior and reward then just distracting.


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

Thank you. I will take any suggestions and I appreciate all the help.


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## LouCastle (Sep 25, 2006)

colbie10 said:


> I have a almost 6 year old German shepherd/golden retriever mix that is so deathly afraid of guns. When she sees it or hears it she will start to shake horribly and run and hide wherever she can to get away from it.
> 
> What can I do?


Often this is a genetic issue and the best that can be done is to teach a dog to hold a stay in the face of gunfire. Often with a dog that is truly gun shy, there is little that can be done. If any progress can be made, it's something that needs to be regularly worked on. 

I treat this with gradual desensitization. I start by making loud noises at a distance from the dog when he's eating, by clapping my hands loudly while standing in another room or, if outside, at quite a distance from the dog. If the dog continues to eat, I'll slowly move closer. At some point I'll be standing over the dog clapping my hands. 

Then I'll move up to hitting the flat of 2 − 2x4's together to make a loud noise. Again, this starts at a distance and moves closer if the dog tolerates it. 

Gradually increase the level of noise until a blank gun is fired over the dog's head as he's eating. Start with a .22 blank gun, then a .38, then a 12 ga. This is first done as before, at a distance with each gun, and then moving closer. Then graduate to the next larger caliber. 

But there's a significant difference between a blank gun, other types of loud noises and the actual firing of a gun. For one thing there is a muzzle blast that is different with a blank gun and a gun that fires a bullet. Some bullets travel at supersonic speeds, some do not. If it does, there's a secondary noise, a supersonic "boom" that most of us have heard with planes and the like. It's impossible to train for that, without using gunfire with such ammunition.


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## Lilie (Feb 3, 2010)

If your dog is sensitive to gunfire, then when you are out in the field target practicing, put your dog up. A lot of dogs have trouble with a large volume of gun shots. 

If you are wanting to train your dog to use in the field, say for the retrieval of game birds, then focus on many different sessions with highly prized rewards used ONLY in the field. 

Since your dog reacts to the sight of the weapon, begin your sessions without firing the weapon. Start with something your dog values highly, even if it's playing in the field. Take out the weapon (making it a non-event) not allowing your dog to retreat to the house. If you have to have it on a long line, then do so. Keep in mind you are trying to build confidence and when you coddle your dog you are reinforcing it's behavior of being frightened.


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## kbella999 (Jan 6, 2012)

Does your dog have a safe place like their crate or something? If so, put them in their safe place and gradually start having the noises go off that she doesn't like. Start with a cap gun and see how she reacts when they are in their safe place. You can decrease the distance that you do the cap gun away from their safe place. Then change noise after they don't show much reaction. I have found that the packaging that comes in Amazon packages sounds a lot like a gun when you step on it and pop it. I've been dealing with my dogs reaction to the loud guns they use at road races. I take mine and put him in his crate up close where the gun goes off. After several tries, his reaction has diminished. It will take a bit more work but I'm hopeful that he will eventually be able to be out of his crate and not react to the gun. I've also started popping the Amazon bubble packing when he is in the house and "safe". I'll be out in the garage. I offer food if he wants to come get it or he can stay where he feels safe.


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

Thank you for more suggestions. I am not trying to train her for purposes such as retrieving anything. I just don't want her to be so afraid at the sight and sound of a gun to where she goes into a panic mode. She loves to be outside with us and I can't have her outside when there is any shooting going on because I don't know if she will run off or not or hurt herself by trying to get away. We live in a community that is a hunting and gun shooting community and I am just trying to get her to be not so scared of the noise.


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## Stonevintage (Aug 26, 2014)

I still wouldn't recommend any training of this sort due to her age. This is a primal ingrained fear.

I drew the line and gave up when my dogs were 3 years old. They had been in our yard and we were at work. Someone was shooting and they bit through the 4" square field fencing to get away. Bloody, one broken tooth. 6th time they broke out to get away.

I tried all the methods mentioned here. I tried recordings, none worked. I just don't see any reason to put a 6+ year old dog through this unless it's absolutely necessary and it does not sound like it is.....


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## Clay Hill (Jan 27, 2016)

First off I haven't read all the responses given. 
Second I'm brand spanking new to the forum. 
Third I have little to know experience training tactical or protection dogs. Matter of fact my first GSD is only 9 weeks old. 

I am a gun dog trainer of retrievers and flushers who not only have to be ok around gun fire they have to love being out in front of it. 
Please don't introduce fire around your dog in his kennel. 

Long road but it can be done. A gun shy dog can be one of the hardest things overcome. Slowly and gradually you need to associate the sound and at some point felt report with something good or something the pup loves to do. 
For heavens sake don't take that dog to the range and think a couple cotton balls will solve everything day one. 

Let say your dog loves to fetch
Have a friend fire off some 22 blanks at 200 yards away and slowly move closer while playing fetch. If the dog starts to react redirect and praise. If you find it hard to redirect that's your limit today. 
You can play this game as often as it takes to get right next to your dog and start over with a larger gauge. 
You can move from 22 blank to 12 gauge popper to live 12gauge pointed up and away (removing felt report) to 12 Guage up and over (felt report) always starting at least 100 yards away. You can change the game, add in confident other dogs but always away and slowly closer. 
This is not an over night fix but with patience it can be a complete rehabilitation. 
Hope this helps.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Clay Hill,
Good advice. Very similar to what I posted on the first page. I realize that you said that you haven't read all of the responses. 

Regarding the cotton balls and gun range, no one was recommending that for the OP's dog. The thread was on it's way to be being derailed. I'm glad that you, not knowing some of the history may have set it in a better course with your post.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Lou, 

You are a funny guy and I am enjoying your responses. One thing that I have learned is no one wins an internet argument. Certainly, as proven on this forum and the WDF there is no winning an argument with you. I'm not to here to argue, especially with you. I find your style of interrogation, extremely irritating and obnoxious. You said a couple of things that I agree with, one being that I do not owe you any explanations or answers. I am certainly not going to respond to you because you demand it. Secondly, in one of your rambling posts you mentioned Police K-9 handlers that _work one or two dogs then become trainers_, didn't you work _one dog_ for a few years and t,hen become _a trainer_? You can use a rainbow of font colors and I am going to ignore you. Your response about Brad Smith is hysterical. 

How many years were you on a SWAT team? How many years did you handle a K-9 on a SWAT team? How many years ago were you a K-9 Handler? 

You do not need to answer for my benefit, I really don't care. I'm going to continue to ignore you, hopefully you can simply ignore me. That is probably the best way for us to get along, agree to disagree. I notice when you go off on your TMTR rants to me threads get closed. I'd rather not be involved in this petty bickering with you or a party to threads being closed. 

Have a nice day, sir.

I am happy to have a discussion on training or theory with anyone else. If my experiences are beneficial, if my posts seem to make a little sense, by all means read them and take them for what they are worth.


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## LouCastle (Sep 25, 2006)

Slamdunc said:


> Lou,
> 
> You are a funny guy and I am enjoying your responses. One thing that I have learned is no one wins an internet argument.


Well Sd, you have learned wrong! Sometimes, as now, there is a clear and obvious winner, and it's NOT you. ROFL



Slamdunc said:


> Certainly, as proven on this forum and the WDF there is no winning an argument with you.


Wrong again. Sometimes, when people are right and I'm wrong, they win. When that happens, I admit my error or the fact that I was wrong. But you, like some others simply can't admit when you've been bested in an argument. The fact of our disagreement remains the same, you, in a roundabout fashion, suggested to someone that they use cotton to protect their dog's ears during gunfire. The FACT is that it will not provide such protection. The fact that some reputable people do it, does not change the facts. But you s imply won't admit it. You are wrong, and I am right. That's called winning (me) and losing (you), an argument on the Net. The fact that you won't admit that you are wrong and have, indeed, lost the argument, means nothing. As always, I leave such decision to the readers. 



Slamdunc said:


> I'm not to here to argue, especially with you.


When someone is wrong, as you are on this subject of cotton−in−ears, I'll point it out. There's no argument, there's just you flailing around trying to make yourself right, when science and the facts prove that you are wrong. You can use all the logical fallacies to try to support your case that you like, but you're still wrong. 



Slamdunc said:


> I find your style of interrogation, extremely irritating and obnoxious.


I would too, if I was wrong as often as you have been in our exchanges. I could be as friendly as it's possible to be, but you're still wrong. Few people, especially someone who is used to being right, or at least not disagreed with, will find that to be fun. And so you go to personal attacks. Quite unprofessional of you. *I’m wondering, is that how you work the street too? * 



Slamdunc said:


> You said a couple of things that I agree with, one being that I do not owe you any explanations or answers. I am certainly not going to respond to you because * you demand it. *


Another absurdity! ONLY a list owner or a moderator has the power _"to demand"_ something in this medium. A demand carries with it the power to impose a penalty if you refuse. I have no such power. And so my queries are only requests for information. Often they put the lie to your statements and theories and so it's no wonder that you don't like them. Not responding, just underlines the fact that you are not able to support what you say. 



Slamdunc said:


> Secondly, in one of your rambling posts you mentioned Police K-9 handlers that _work one or two dogs then become trainers_, didn't you work _one dog_ for a few years and t,hen become _a trainer_?


An incomplete summary at best, but it sounds as if I struck a nerve and I'm gonna guess that's exactly the case with you. As little as I like doing this, when someone questions my credibility, it's necessary. When I first became a handler, in the first couple of weeks another handler had a serious issue with his dog. We got next to now support from our vendor, in fact he told us to get help from other agencies in the area. They had no idea of what to do with our issues. And so I set about becoming a trainer. I went out and trained with every trainer I could find. I spend hundreds of hours of my own time doing so. I called all over the US looking for help. My phone bills then (long before free coast−to−coast calling) were over $300 a month for over a year. Luckily I found, and became good friends with one of the best trainers of LE K−9's on the planet, Donn Yarnall, who just happened to be in my backyard. He had just started the LAPD K−9 patrol unit and was its head trainer until his retirement. I spent thousands of hours learning from him, often training with him. I'm good friends with many top trainers around the US, I speak to them often and rely on their expertise at times. Many of them call on me for mine, as well. And so I became a trainer. I hardly have all the answers, but I have a few of them. And just as important, when I don't know the answer, I know where to find it. 

Word spread of my education, training and experience and I've now done 65 seminars and workshops in 20 states, 47 cities, 3 foreign countries (Canada, The UK and Spain); 23 of them repeats (done for the same seminar organizers). One of them repeated eight times. 

Most every agency in this area, except the very largest ones, hires their vendor or another trainer to do their maintenance training. My agency used me as their in−house trainer for the first 20 years or our history with K−9's. It was only after I got injured on the job, and could no longer fill that role, that they hired an outside trainer to do the maintenance training. 



Slamdunc said:


> You can use a rainbow of font colors and I am going to ignore you.


As I said, the _ Slamdunc font _ has a dual purpose. First is to draw your attention to my questions, so you can't claim that they got lost in the post. Second, and perhaps most important, it's to draw the reader's attention to your inability/unwillingness to answer the simplest of questions. One of these days I'll change my signature line, but for quite some time it will point out your lack of credibility. 



Slamdunc said:


> Your response about Brad Smith is hysterical.


Your "appeal to authority" is pathetic. I have a picture in my mind of your mother saying to you, "If Brad Smith jumped off a bridge would you follow him?" ROFL



Slamdunc said:


> How many years were you on a SWAT team?


Again we have someone who refuses to answer the simplest of questions, asking some. But since it boosts my credibility and puts the lie to your statements, and my reputation is that I answer just about all questions asked of me, I'll answer. Three years. I was a sniper and entry team leader. (Everyone on the team had two assignments, in case there was a manpower shortage). 



Slamdunc said:


> How many years did you handle a K-9 on a SWAT team?


No department had K−9's in those days, in this area. 



Slamdunc said:


> How many years ago were you a K-9 Handler?


About 5 1/2. 



Slamdunc said:


> You do not need to answer for my benefit, I really don't care.


As I said, you asked. My answers tell part of my story about my experience and expertise. I'm wondering, I know you won't answer, because the answers will point out your LACK of experience but here goes. 


*At how many seminars have you been an instructor?
[*]Are you on a SWAT team?
[*]If so, for how long? 
[*]If so, what is your assignment on that team?
[*]If so, where did you receive your SWAT training? 
[*]If so, do you handle a K−9 on that SWAT team? 
[*]How many years have you been a K−9 handler? 
[*]How many dogs have you handled?
[*]Who does the K−9 training for your department?
[*]If you do the training, please tell us where you come by your expertise as a K−9 trainer and tell us for how long you've been training LE K−9's? *
 


And please don't beg the question by pretending we're talking about you being a trainer simply because you do maintenance training on your own K−9. When I say that I was a trainer, I mean training the other handlers and their K−9's, not just my own dog. But perhaps some clarification is necessary. There are lots of people who claim that they are trainers because "they train their own dog." *If you claim that you are a trainer, has any agency invested you with the responsibility for training their K−9's? * 



Slamdunc said:


> I'm going to continue to ignore you, hopefully you can simply ignore me.


I don't ignore people, especially when they put out as much misinformation as you have. I've learned that I can learn something from even the worst trainer on the planet. They can always serve as a bad example. 



Slamdunc said:


> That is probably the best way for us to get along, agree to disagree.


I feel no need to _"get along"_ with you. I will remain polite and professional as I always do, but when you spout nonsense, as seems to be fairly often, I'll be around to point it out. I see no reason to let you post myths and misconceptions as fact, and lead people down the wrong road. 



Slamdunc said:


> I notice when you go off on your TMTR rants to me threads get closed. I'd rather not be involved in this petty bickering with you or a party to threads being closed.


Sometimes when threads go far afield from their original topic, they get closed. I'm sometimes a party to that, but usually it's because I follow someone else down a "rabbit hole" because, as now, they go off topic with a comment and then, simply can't admit that they got it wrong. Here, you could have simply ignored my comment, or admitted that your suggestion of using cotton affords no meaningful protection. Instead you decided to try to play one−up games, and lost! 

Another reason that threads get locked is that someone loses their professionalism and gets personal. Kinda like when you called my _"style of interrogation, extremely irritating and obnoxious."_ I rarely reply in kind



Slamdunc said:


> I am happy to have a discussion on training or theory with anyone else.


What Sd means is _"anyone else"_ who won't point out the errors of his statements, the holes in his theories, or his numerous contradictions. 



Slamdunc said:


> If my experiences are beneficial, if my posts seem to make a little sense, by all means read them and * take them for what they are worth. *


I'm pretty sure that I've pointed out _"what [your comments] are worth,"_ anyone can refer to my signature line. I'm out of town right now and don't have as much time as usual to devote to this, but I'll be back. I've seen some of your posts that need my attention. lol


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

> I am happy to have a discussion on training or theory with anyone else. If my experiences are beneficial, if my posts seem to make a little sense, by all means read them and take them for what they are worth.


I'm not much into theory Jim, but I can appreciate your posts because of your verifiable, hands on experience. That has enough worth to make them something I'll pay attention to and not ignore.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Steve, thanks. I also prefer "hands on" practical application to theory. Once in a while a nice conversation on theory is interesting. 

To the OP, I hope that you work out this issue with your dog. Please, be patient and don't give up. You can make it manageable and see improvement. 

For anyone else reading this thread and what this thread has become. If you would like to know my experience, what dogs I have trained and what venues I currently train in, simply ask. I will gladly answer any question that any other forum members may have, publicly or by PM. I'm not going to satisfy Lou's demands, curiosity or tantrums. However, if some one feels that he asked a question of me and you would like to know the answer, I will happily oblige you. This is a discussion forum dedicated to GSD's and training and those are two of my favorite topics to discuss. 

Again, I apologize to the OP for being a part of what was a valuable thread being taken OT.


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## Nigel (Jul 10, 2012)

Colbie10, I think there is some good advice and places to start mentioned already, I just wanted to add to be sure to be enthusiastic and engaging while you work with her. Whatever you choose to use as a distraction for this, build her up with encouragement, make it the most fun game ever.


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## MadLab (Jan 7, 2013)

Desensitizing and counter conditioning would be the main method of easing the problem.

Desensitizing and Counter-Conditioning: Overcoming Your Dog?s Issues

I wonder does the dog start to react when it sees the gun. I'm sure it does. What has been mentioned by a few people is to desensitize to noises, building from low to high.

IMO You'd also need to desensitize to someone holding the gun. Really you need to read up on the desensitizing and understand the concepts and work at it from there.

It is difficult as the behavior is ingrained.


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

Thank you for those of you who were able to give me advice I will be able to use and hopefully help my dog. 

And to those who decided to argue instead of help me; take your argument somewhere else please and thank you.


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## Nigel (Jul 10, 2012)

Colbie10, is there a game she goes truly nuts over like tug?


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## Stonevintage (Aug 26, 2014)

colbie10 said:


> Thank you for those of you who were able to give me advice I will be able to use and hopefully help my dog.
> 
> And to those who decided to argue instead of help me; take your argument somewhere else please and thank you.



It's funny what happens sometimes. This is a forum to share ideas but some here will insist that they are always right and try to grind everyone else into the ground. For what purpose? Helps no one. Perhaps trainers should have their own section here where they can go to argue their methods with each other. It seems to be needed. 

Some of the trainers are excellent helping with problems. Their answers are simple, short and specific with basic explanations and boom - they are gone. 
No back and forth arguments and challenges, no debates, no personal attacks and no need to try to get the viewers to take sides. No winning points, no keeping score. Their payoff is knowing they gave good information to help someone with their dog.

This is the way that normal professionals behave IMO. Your doctors don't stand there and debate each other into the ground with each patient they share, nor teachers with students. They are confident enough in themselves and have respect for their client and fellow professionals to resist the urge to indulge in selfish ego driven bickering....


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## Castlemaid (Jun 29, 2006)

I cleaned up this thread to keep it on topic, thank you all who posted to help and have the maturity to leave their ego out of it. 

And Jim, please don't feel that you need to prove your credentials to anyone here. Your ability to share your knowledge help in a non-judgemental way is a great asset to this board.


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## GatorBytes (Jul 16, 2012)

LouCastle said:


> *As I said, the Slamdunc font has a dual purpose. First is to draw your attention to my questions, so you can't claim that they got lost in the post. Second, and perhaps most important, it's to draw the reader's attention to your inability/unwillingness to answer the simplest of questions. One of these days I'll change my signature line, but for quite some time it will point out your lack of credibility*. /QUOTE]
> 
> Castlemaid, I thought you cleaned this up. Yet Lou's harassment is still in black and white (and pink, green and blue).
> 
> ...


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## GatorBytes (Jul 16, 2012)

Castlemaid said:


> I cleaned up this thread to keep it on topic, thank you all who posted to help and have the maturity to leave their ego out of it.
> 
> And Jim, please don't feel that you need to prove your credentials to anyone here. Your ability to share your knowledge help in a non-judgemental way is a great asset to this board.





GatorBytes said:


> LouCastle said:
> 
> 
> > /QUOTE]
> ...


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## colbie10 (Jan 24, 2016)

She likes to play fetch but the thing she likes most is to play tug of war but not always with a toy. She knows that when I have gloves and my heavy coat on that she can grab hold and play with me. She likes to tug me around the yard lol.


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## Benparker1968 (Dec 22, 2015)

Well I think this is my first post so let me start by saying im just a plain old dog owner with NO TRAINING, but I have noticed from puppy to adult every dog shutters at guns. I do not even mean shooting the guns near them...I mean simply working the action or holding it in the vicinity of the dog. I can only speculate that the actual sound of the firearm discharging is so loud that an animal with such sensitive hearing would obviously freak out, but the mere site of a gun for some reason terrifies every dog I have ever owned. I wish I could post a video to show what I mean to better clarify. If I point a toy gun at my pup she runs scared and she has NEVER been near a gun going off. I have seen plenty of dogs in the military that have no issue and I dont know why or how they train them, but would like some insight on that. I can say I have talked with dog handlers that do freefall jumps with there dogs and they told me that the 1st time going on the plane is fine but if you do not muzzle and cover there eyes from the start, they will NEVER go on a plane willingly again, which I dont blame them. If anyone has luck with training for firearms please share. Sorry I rant so much.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Benparker1968,
A dog shouldn't really become nervous at the sight of a gun. A gun is an inanimate object to a dog. A dog that has not been exposed to gun fire should be no more concerned with a toy gun as it would be with the TV remote. The only thing I can surmise is that the dogs are getting some cues from your body language that is telling them there is a need for concern. 

With out a prior adverse association or bad experience with gunfire, it is generally speaking a nerve or temperament issue. With that said, a dog with a strong nerves and a good temperament exposed incorrectly to gunfire can develop an issue or sensitivity to gunfire. I test dogs for potential Police K-9's and gunfire is the first test that I do. I have tested hundreds of dogs, and few have had a serious negative reaction. The ones that do have a nervous or "skittish" reaction are not selected and the testing is over right there for those dogs and I move on to the next dog. The test is very simple, we take the dog out on a leash and walk it around. No stimulation, no toys and no training equipment of any kind is visible to the dog. It is important that the dog is not "in drive" as this will affect the test. Many of the dogs that I test have prior exposure to gunfire or the cracking of a whip in training. The handler simply walks the dog around and goes a distance away, maybe 40 or 50 yards. I wait until the dog is relaxed and calmly walking and sniffing. Then I fire and observe the reaction, alert and calm but aware is ideal. Some dogs get aggressive and we can deal with that in training. Skittish or nervous behavior is a fail to be selected. We do move closer and fire again, observing the reaction. 

Then we acclimate the dogs to gunfire, where the dog can lay at the handler's side while he fires. We need our dogs to be gunfire neutral and stay in place during gunfire. With the right dogs it is really not very difficult.


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