# Preparing to bring home a puppy!



## TxTech

Hey everyone,

This August my husband and I will be bringing home our first dog -- a 12 week old German Shepherd puppy! We are very excited. I have been doing a lot of research and figuring out everything we will need in our home for the pup. I'm trying to figure all of this out so that I know how much money we need to have saved up. Here is the list of things I have come up with so far:

CRATE: We are going to get the biggest one (48"x30"x33"). It is a wire crate that comes with a divider to adjust the size as the puppy grows.
BEDDING: I thought about getting one of those traditional white crate mats that has the bumper around it. I think many of those are made with a moisture absorbing material.
GROOMING: A slicker brush, a shedding blade, a curry brush, and a nail trimmer kit
TOYS: A Nylabone puppy starter kit (3 different kinds of Nylabones), a Fresh & Floss Booda Bone, and a Red Kong chew toy
DOGGY GATE: Swivel gate that we can put at the bottom of our staircase
COLLAR & LEASH: Nylon buckle collar and nylon leash (6ft.)
FEEDING/WATERING: 2 stainless steel no-skid 2qt bowls
And of course, a pooper-scooper.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I've listed? Anything to add?


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## butch33611

Its good that your preparing for him. When we got Sarge it was kind of a spur of the moment thing so we had to start from scratch.Looks like you pretty much have everything covered. All thats missing is the dog. Good luck with your new addition. As a member of this board remember....pics are required as soon as you bring him home!!!


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## DianaM

-Enyzamtic cleaner like Nature's Miracle, a gallon's worth.
-Furminator brush (not required, but highly recommended!
-Training classes (set aside money and time for this, sign up for puppy classes then continue on until your pup is a model dog).
-Read up on what to feed. There is no one diet good for every dog but you will want to read up on possible digestive disorders that GSDs face, various qualities of food, grain free, raw, how to find a good food for your dog, etc.
-Ball for fetch! Please don't use tennis balls, these are generally recommended against.
-







for getting a crate and planning ahead!
-Camera for photos.








-Training stuff! A toy to be used as a training reward, treats (you can bake liver at home to use as an easy treat), and maybe even a clicker because those are great for motivational, positive training and bond-building.

Finally, SOCIALIZE HIM LIKE CRAZY! Plan to take him around: Babies/children of all ages, races, and body types; adults of all races, ages, and body types; seniors of all ages, races, and body types; people with assistance equipment like wheelchairs and walkers; people in bears, glasses, hats, costumes, raincoats, UNIFORMS (lots of these); loud, busy situations; in busy city traffic; in stores (where allowed); in the country around farm animals (where allowed and safe; around cats and other animals; around other puppies and dogs (in SAFE, CONTROLLED situations like training classes- skip out on dog parks unless you know each and every dog is very friendly, won't overpower your dog, and is under complete control and recall control by its owner); lots of fun trips to the vet, etc.

Good luck with the new arrival! Be sure to read everything you can on this forum as all topics have excellent information even though it may seem you won't need it anytime soon.


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## JKlatsky

Hmm...
The only things I can think of that I would amend or add to your list...

1. Don't bother with bedding, at least not in the crate. Your puppy will destroy it if you're not there to supervise, they almost always do. And then if he ingests it, you have to worry about intestinal blockages. 

2. I have a preference for a 4 ft leash. I like to keep my dogs closer, especially when we're out socializing and I always feel like 6 ft is too much and I end up balling the leash up in my hand. 

3. Double check the size on the Nylabone starter kit...the ones I've seen have been small. Your puppy will grow so fast, you'll sometimes if the dog in the crate in the morning was the same on you put in there last night! We buy the Souper Size Puppy Bone, and our 14 week old loves to pick it up and carry it around. They get to keep it until they really start to tear it up and then they get the Big Dog Bone.

4. I second the other suggestions! Puppy classes are awesome. Nature's Miracle is a must. LOTS of paper towels!







Go to all the places you can think of where your puppy can go.


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## doggiedad

looks like you have it covered. don't buy anything from China. there's to many recalls on their products. why is your doggy gate being placed at the bottom of your staircase? are you planning on leaving your dog in the basement? do you have a Vet ? do you have your puppy classes scheduled? ask your breeder to start crating your dog. why are you bringing your puppy home at 12 weeks old? ask around about that shedding blade. i've never used one of those and i've had a coatie. puppy proof your home. is this the first dog your getting since you've been married or the first dog either one of you have ever had? are you getting a boy or girl and what color? if you have any questions about your breeder or any aspect of your dogs life you'll find the answer here. the people here know dogs. good luck. what's your dogs name on paper and what are you going to call him or her? good luck. stead with this forum.


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## GSDgirlAL

I agree with doggiedad ... looks like you've got just about everything covered. The only thing that I can think of that you didn't write .... Puppy Shampoo and a dental starter kit. Start them while they are young with cleaning their teeth so that way when they get older they are used to having your fingers in their mouth. I saw that you had nail clippers down, that's something else to get them used too while they are young. 

don't forget about food for the pup


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## GSDgirlAL

Just thought of something else .... 

ID tag for your pup with all the important info on it ... it's better to be safe than sorry.


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## Kayla's Dad

I agree with JKlatsky on considering four ft leash - except I would suggest down the road when your puppy gets a little bigger. I use both a 4 ft and 6 ft depending on circumstances. Stay with the 6 ft for now but put a 4 ft in your thinking as he gets bigger.

Treat bag for carrying the treats with you-even in the house as you award for behaviours in his early weeks of bonding.

Any old (or replaceable) sheets or towels? May want to consider them for bedding in the crate, until you get past the chewing period.


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: doggiedadlooks like you have it covered. don't buy anything from China. there's to many recalls on their products. why is your doggy gate being placed at the bottom of your staircase? are you planning on leaving your dog in the basement? do you have a Vet ? do you have your puppy classes scheduled? ask your breeder to start crating your dog. why are you bringing your puppy home at 12 weeks old? ask around about that shedding blade. i've never used one of those and i've had a coatie. puppy proof your home. is this the first dog your getting since you've been married or the first dog either one of you have ever had? are you getting a boy or girl and what color? if you have any questions about your breeder or any aspect of your dogs life you'll find the answer here. the people here know dogs. good luck. what's your dogs name on paper and what are you going to call him or her? good luck. stead with this forum.


We are bringing the pup home at 12 weeks because we have arranged for the breeder to keep him/her for some additional weeks to start on the basic training. Since it will be our first puppy we don't want to start with a 6 or 7 week old...it will be easier on us to start with one that is a little older and has been socialized at the kennel and received some basic training. My husband and I have had dogs before when we were growing up, but we have never owned one together. Nor have either of us had experience raising a pup and participating in training with it. 

As for the stairs thing...we live in a two story townhome. We are going to put a gate at the bottom of the stairs because we spend most of our time downstairs and we want to keep the puppy downstairs with us at all times. 

We don't know if we are getting a male or female yet. The litter is due the first week of May, so once we see pictures and the breeder tells us about their markings and temperaments we will choose which one we want. I don't really have much of a preference as far as the sex goes. I will choose based on other things.

My husband's cousin is a Vet, so we will go to his clinic. We don't have puppy classes scheduled yet. But we will do so.


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: GSDgirlALI agree with doggiedad ... looks like you've got just about everything covered. The only thing that I can think of that you didn't write .... Puppy Shampoo and a dental starter kit. Start them while they are young with cleaning their teeth so that way when they get older they are used to having your fingers in their mouth. I saw that you had nail clippers down, that's something else to get them used too while they are young.
> 
> don't forget about food for the pup


Yeah, I didn't put anything about the shampoo and dental care stuff because I'm not really sure what to get yet. I plan on talking to the breeder about that. If she is going to use particular products on the pup I might just continue to use that product. Same thing with food.


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## DianaM

If this is your first pup, I strongly suggest the breeder choosing for you based on your needs, wants, experiences, and goals. The breeder should know the parents, lines, and the litter better than anyone and it's hard even for pros to step into a litter and pick a good match on the first go. If the breeder is not willing to do this or doesn't see the importance in this, that very likely is a red flag. 

Also, puppies should go to their new homes no earlier than 7 weeks minimum but 8 weeks or older is best. 6 weeks is a no no and if your breeder typically lets pups go at 6 weeks, that's an even bigger red flag! Make sure your breeder does TONS of socializing between 8-12 weeks with your pup!


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: DianaMIf this is your first pup, I strongly suggest the breeder choosing for you based on your needs, wants, experiences, and goals. The breeder should know the parents, lines, and the litter better than anyone and it's hard even for pros to step into a litter and pick a good match on the first go. If the breeder is not willing to do this or doesn't see the importance in this, that very likely is a red flag.
> 
> Also, puppies should go to their new homes no earlier than 7 weeks minimum but 8 weeks or older is best. 6 weeks is a no no and if your breeder typically lets pups go at 6 weeks, that's an even bigger red flag! Make sure your breeder does TONS of socializing between 8-12 weeks with your pup!


The breeder we chose does not release puppies at 6 weeks of age. At that age, she starts vaccinations. She says that her pups are usually gone by 9 weeks of age. I believe she told me that 7-8 weeks is the typical age that they leave. 

I do agree that the breeder will be better able to pick our pup for us. She told me that we need to specify what color & markings we prefer, as well as what we are looking for in a dog. She said she will send us a series of pictures so that we can see what all of the pups look like. She will also tell me about the differences she sees among all of them. So, even though we will be telling her our preferences, she will know the pups better than us and she will know which one will better suit us.

As for socializing: this breeder has several other animals on her property with which she socializes her puppies. She also has grandkids who come over regularly, so the pups are exposed to children (once they are old enough). The breeder says she does NOT allow visitors to visit with/handle the newborns. She says her puppies are socialized when they go to their new home.


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## kelso

Congrats! and good luck







Looks like you are doing an awesome job at researching and getting ready for your pup. 

Can't wait to see some pictures! Do you have any particular names for male or female? Just being nosey...


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: kelsoCongrats! and good luck
> 
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> Looks like you are doing an awesome job at researching and getting ready for your pup.
> 
> Can't wait to see some pictures! Do you have any particular names for male or female? Just being nosey...


Ah...names...ACK! I'm having such a hard time. I hear so many cute dog names, but at the same time many of them don't strike me the way I want my pup's name to strike me. I keep looking for a name that when I see it I go, "Oh my gosh. That's perfect!" or "I love that name!" 

So far, the only female name that I have given thought to is Sookie. I am a huge fan of the show Gilmore Girls and there is a character on the show named Sookie. I've always thought she had a cool name, but I would never name my child Sookie. So I thought it might make a good dog name. And the only male name that me and my husband have talked about is Kumho. Believe it or not, it is a brand name of tires! I am pretty sure it is pronounced koom-o (silent h).

Any suggestions?!?!


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## DianaM

> Quote:She says her puppies are socialized when they go to their new home.


Don't fall for that trap! They may be exposed to some kids and some animals, but you still must expose them to many, many more kids, animals, adults, seniors, uniforms, races, body types, clothing types, etc. If you think the socializing job is done, it's far from it! Plan lots of outings with the pup and make it a goal to meet as many as possible. Find a parade and go to one- that's a great way to see all sorts of people, kids, and experience a lot of loud noises!


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: DianaM
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:She says her puppies are socialized when they go to their new home.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't fall for that trap! They may be exposed to some kids and some animals, but you still must expose them to many, many more kids, animals, adults, seniors, uniforms, races, body types, clothing types, etc. If you think the socializing job is done, it's far from it! Plan lots of outings with the pup and make it a goal to meet as many as possible. Find a parade and go to one- that's a great way to see all sorts of people, kids, and experience a lot of loud noises!
Click to expand...

Oh no! By no means did I think that meant that the socialization process is done. And I don't think that's what the breeder intended by her statement. What I took from that statement is that while the pup is in the breeders hands, she socializes it. Once the puppy goes to its new home, it is up to the owner to continue that socialization.


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## Rügen

Hi HBH,

I am also leaving my pup at the breeder's kennel a little longer than normal- 9.5 weeks. (His time is up next week!) 

Sookie and Kumho are too cute







When I was looking for names (since I am getting a German snowline from import parents) I checked out Germany's geography (seas, mountains, rivers, valleys, islands, ect...) What are your little guy's lines? 

Looks like you are going to be very well prepared when he/she comes home







One idea- take a toy or something to get the sent of his littermates and mother. I dropped off a stuffed toy with the whole litter when they were 6 weeks old. It should help with the adjustment when his littermates leave and when you take him home.


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## SunCzarina

Love this thread as we're expecting an addition to our family this summer as well.

One question I have is about crates. Puppy will be getting his own crate. It will be in my bedroom as Morgan's was when she was a baby. 

Should I move Morgan's crate up in my bedroom so puppy can see the older dog likes her crate? Right now her crate is in the basement and she always goes in when someone's in the basement with her.


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## DianaM

> Quote:Once the puppy goes to its new home, it is up to the owner to continue that socialization.










If only more people realized that!


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## law1558

> Originally Posted By: Caras_GSDWhen I was looking for names (since I am getting a German snowline from import parents) I checked out Germany's geography (seas, mountains, rivers, valleys, islands, ect...) What are your little guy's lines?
> 
> Looks like you are going to be very well prepared when he/she comes home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One idea- take a toy or something to get the sent of his littermates and mother. I dropped off a stuffed toy with the whole litter when they were 6 weeks old. It should help with the adjustment when his littermates leave and when you take him home.


I LOVE this thread, too, as we are bringing home our female pup in July.







I want a good strong German name, too, and hadn't considered pulling out a map to look for possibilities! Our last female was named "Ica" (pronounced Ike-a) and I've found I'm more drawn to names that end with "a"....some of the contenders for our new pup are "Kona", "Zara", "Quila", and "Roya".

I also like your idea of dropping off a stuffed animal with the litter so the scent of the littermates/mom comes home when the pup does.


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## Rügen

Thanks, 
I found that Wikipedia was a great place to get pictures and information about the geography without having to crack a book







There are a lot of Rivers! 

My boy is named after the largest German island in the Baltic Sea







Rügen

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_rivers_of_Germany

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_cities_in_Germany

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Landforms_of_Germany


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## doggiedad

there's not alot of training going on between 8 weeks and 12 weeks. that's very young. i like to get them at 8 weeks old. primary socialization into human socialization are those first few weeks. bring your pup at 8 weeks. you can socialize it yourself. you just expose him/her to everything you can think of and things you can't think of. you socialize your pup and you'll start that ever so important bound between the pup and your family. i personally think you'll do a better job than the breeder because you can do more with the pup. like hang out in front of the super market because strangers will want to pet the pup so the pup gets use to strangers touching him/her. you want him the pup getting use to the noises in your house, the smells, your enviroment which is the pups. you want the pup use to being crated so you can sleep at night and house training. you want the pup on your schedule. bring that baby home at 8 weeks. you don't want to miss all of the good and bad things that happen. all of the pictures. your pup is going to change so much from birth to 12 weeks old and you want to see those changes. at 8 weeks they could weigh 14 to 18 pounds then 20 plus by 12 weeks and your going to miss all of that. your baby wants you at 8 weeks it needs your love and caring because now your it's parents. there's nothing better than a puppy doing things besides you'll learn from this also. plus you have this forum for the stuff you might not know. you know how to take care of a human baby, it's instinctive so is taking care of a puppy. you don't want to miss out on those first few weeks. sometimes they're so cute you'll find it hard to correct them. once when my boy was 10 weeks or so he decided to piddle in the house. my darling GF looks over says "oh look, the baby is going on the floor" the way she said it you would of thought it was a Kodac moment. so i said "Babe, take him outside". we both started laughing because she realized that i realized she was caught up in the moment. you don't want to miss out on all of those puppy stories that alot of us have. go on, bring him home at 8 weeks, you're going to love that time you share with your pup. about puppy classes. the one we went to was more socialization than formal training. they had them walk on different surfaces, there was an agility tunnel in the middle of the door that they had to walk through, there was bubble wrap on the floor, they had to do up and down stairs, they got mock examinations, nails clipped, blow dryed, we used a grinder for the nails(now he just lays there and let's you do his nails with no problem), they would vaccum the floors, i thought this class was great. even after the classes were over they had us go to vet just so vet would handle him and treat him. now when we go to Vet he just stands there or lays there, no leash. we started puppy classes at 10 weeks. they had a class sooner but he didn't have the neccessary shots at the time. now bring your pup home at 8 weeks. good luck.


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## doggiedad

every breeder i know you can visit the new borns. i even know some that want you to handle the new borns because it's part of socialization. are you allowed to visit the kennel? you know i'm not comfortable with the breeder not letting you visit the new borns. i can see where she might want you to handle them but a visit. also the more i think about it i'm really not comfortable with the breeder socializing your pup. i think you'll do a much better job. picking out a pup for you.when it comes to the breeder picking out a pup for you i have mixed emotions about this. when we decided on a pup we decided to get a show dog and wanted an import, black and red male. i wasn't so worried about the dog fitting our personalities or us fitting his. at 9 weeks old i figured i had plenty of time to shape his personality. i found a good breeder with good dogs. her dogs are known all over the country and parts of the world. our dog fits in nicely with us. he's becoming a well trained cuddle bear. he's from a full line of Schutzhund trained dogs. i might start to show him. we showed him in some puppy classes. i think we shape our dogs personalities. i know they are born with certain characteristics but i think we can mold them. so now at 10 months old our boy is super friendly with other animals and people and he's sound in different enviroments. like i said, you bring him home early (8 weeks) and you socialize your pup. get a copy of "the ultimate puppy tookit". <u>www.ultimatepuppy.com. </u> <u>888-640-8840. http://www.premier.com.</u>


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## TxTech

Doggiedad:

While I understand your point in bringing the pup home earlier, I do not totally agree with everything you said. We want to bring the pup home at 12 weeks for several reasons:

1. Neither of us have ever owned, trained, or housebroken a puppy.
2. During the additional weeks at the kennel, our pup will be taught to "sit", "come", "shake", and will be started on "stay". He/she will be taught "down" (not to jump on people). He/she will also be walking on a leash and will be started on heeling. 
3. The breeders puppies are exposed to crates, and as the breeder has told me "it is their den and they love them."
4. The puppy will be taught and used to going outside to potty. The breeder will use effective housetraining methods which we will continue when we bring the pup home.
5. At an early age the pup will be exposed to other dogs of other breeds and to children. 

All of these reasons mean that getting a puppy for the first time will be made a little easier on us because of the training that will take place at the kennel and the exposure the puppy will receive. If this were our second dog, I would probably want to take it home at 8 weeks. However, we feel more secure and confident knowing that when we bring the pup home, he/she is not a blank slate and not EVERYTHING is up to us. He/she will already have the basics which will make this new adventure a little easier for us. We know we will HAVE to continue what was started by the breeder, and we plan to do just that. But the fact that it was at least STARTED before we got him/her is comforting to us. I don't feel like this is a mistake on our part...is anyone with me here?


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## BowWowMeow

Wowee, you guys are really going all out here! I adopted my first gsd when I was 22 and she was 10 weeks old. Needless to say, we learned a lot together but she was a great dog and I enjoyed learning about how to raise a puppy with her. 

The additional advice I have is to start reading books now. Check out the books and video section on here. Read a bunch of the books recommended and pick one to use as your primer and then read that about 20 times until you know it by heart!







I like Pat Miller's "Power of Positive Dog Training" because it includes a detailed weekly training program. 

http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DTB723OLD

Dogwise has a fantastic selection of books and your local library probably has some good ones too.


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: BowWowMeowWowee, you guys are really going all out here! I adopted my first gsd when I was 22 and she was 10 weeks old. Needless to say, we learned a lot together but she was a great dog and I enjoyed learning about how to raise a puppy with her.
> 
> The additional advice I have is to start reading books now. Check out the books and video section on here. Read a bunch of the books recommended and pick one to use as your primer and then read that about 20 times until you know it by heart!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Pat Miller's "Power of Positive Dog Training" because it includes a detailed weekly training program.
> 
> http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DTB723OLD
> 
> Dogwise has a fantastic selection of books and your local library probably has some good ones too.


Thanks for the suggestions! I am already reading a book, and I will plan on reading more once this semester of grad school is over. Only 3 and 1/2 weeks left! Miller's book sounds like a good one. I may just start with that. So I take it you don't think I'm crazy for taking the pup at 12 weeks?


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## BowWowMeow

Crazy...no. But maybe you're over-analyzing all of this. Since you're in grad school that makes perfect sense!









I don't think whether you take the pup at 12 weeks or at 8 weeks is going to make that much of a difference. I've never purchased a dog but have adopted dogs ranging from 5 weeks to 5 years old. I started out with puppies and have moved to older dogs. I think that whatever training is done with the breeder in terms of housebreaking, crate training, etc. will provide a nice foundation but I don't think it will be that much different than getting the pup at 8 weeks. You'll still need to bond with the pup and do all the same training because s/he will be in a new environment without other dogs, etc. And I think with the amount of preparation that you are doing in advance that even though this is your first dog you will be able to handle an 8 week old puppy with foundational training just as well as a 12 week old puppy. 

Here are some good foundational texts for you:

Patricia McConnell, "The Other End of the Leash"
Suzanne Clothier, "Bones Would Rain from The Sky"

And I would totally look into starting right off the bat with clicker training: http://www.clickertraining.com/dogtraining

And now I must return to grading papers!


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: BowWowMeowCrazy...no. But maybe you're over-analyzing all of this. Since you're in grad school that makes perfect sense!
> 
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> I don't think whether you take the pup at 12 weeks or at 8 weeks is going to make that much of a difference. I've never purchased a dog but have adopted dogs ranging from 5 weeks to 5 years old. I started out with puppies and have moved to older dogs. I think that whatever training is done with the breeder in terms of housebreaking, crate training, etc. will provide a nice foundation but I don't think it will be that much different than getting the pup at 8 weeks. You'll still need to bond with the pup and do all the same training because s/he will be in a new environment without other dogs, etc. And I think with the amount of preparation that you are doing in advance that even though this is your first dog you will be able to handle an 8 week old puppy with foundational training just as well as a 12 week old puppy.
> 
> Here are some good foundational texts for you:
> 
> Patricia McConnell, "The Other End of the Leash"
> Suzanne Clothier, "Bones Would Rain from The Sky"
> 
> And I would totally look into starting right off the bat with clicker training: http://www.clickertraining.com/dogtraining
> 
> And now I must return to grading papers!


Yes, I am an analytical person. In this case, I would rather over analyze than under analyze. So many people have warned, "getting a puppy is a huge responsibility!" So I want to make sure we don't get into it and then go, "We shouldn't have done this." So I am kind of trying to safeguard us from that by doing a lot of research and reading what I can get my hands on. Another way I am safeguarding is by asking the breeder to keep the pup a few additional weeks. I know that puppies change and learn a lot in just a few weeks. So I am sure I am over-doing it to an extent, but I am hoping that will pay off in the end!


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## BowWowMeow

I just want to say that no matter how many times I adopt a new dog (and I've had dogs now for 20 years) or take in a new foster I ALWAYS think, "OMG what on earth have I done!"









No matter how well adjusted or trained the puppy/dog was in her/his previous home, there's a transition period with minor and sometimes (what seem like) major bumps. The first few days are almost always tough with lots of whining and peeing and pooping in the house, etc. And you'll still have a little monster that will bite you, run away from you, chew your shoes and your toes and your remote control and your favorite book and her/his leash and need to go outside frequently.







Dogs in general are a big responsibility and german shepherd dogs--and puppies--are an even bigger responsibility because they're really smart and really active and they always like a good challenge! And that's why we love them so much whether we get them at 8 weeks or 12 weeks or 18 months or 10 years old!


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## JKlatsky

> Originally Posted By: SunCzarina
> Should I move Morgan's crate up in my bedroom so puppy can see the older dog likes her crate? Right now her crate is in the basement and she always goes in when someone's in the basement with her.


Personally, I wouldn't. Our puppy cries when she can see her big brother because she wants to get out an play. I find when she can't see him or me, she settles down faster.

She has her crate upstairs in the bedroom and he's downstairs in the family room.


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: BowWowMeowI just want to say that no matter how many times I adopt a new dog (and I've had dogs now for 20 years) or take in a new foster I ALWAYS think, "OMG what on earth have I done!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how well adjusted or trained the puppy/dog was in her/his previous home, there's a transition period with minor and sometimes (what seem like) major bumps. The first few days are almost always tough with lots of whining and peeing and pooping in the house, etc. And you'll still have a little monster that will bite you, run away from you, chew your shoes and your toes and your remote control and your favorite book and her/his leash and need to go outside frequently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dogs in general are a big responsibility and german shepherd dogs--and puppies--are an even bigger responsibility because they're really smart and really active and they always like a good challenge! And that's why we love them so much whether we get them at 8 weeks or 12 weeks or 18 months or 10 years old!


Yeah, I realize there is going to be an adjustment period...the pup might know that he/she shouldn't piddle inside, but when it comes to live in our home it isn't going to know where "outside" is. I know there might be a slight setback in the housetraining when we bring him/her home. I am planning on taking a week off of work when we bring the pup home. That way for it's first week home I can be there with my husband and we can work a lot with the pup to get him/her used to our home and a routine.


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## Rügen

You are being very conscientious about your puppy, you should be commended. They do change quickly, make sure your breeder will be camera crazy for you! are you close enough to visit?


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## TxTech

Unfortunately, the breeder is 8 hours away, so we won't be able to visit. I originally did not want to work with a breeder that far away, but there were things that I liked about her, and her communication has been very good. She seems to be more concerned with morals and integrity than with making money. Even one of her references said that about her. I like that because I feel more secure that she's not just trying to make money off of us. She's also one of the only two who offered to keep the pup longer and give it some training. I know that there are other breeders out there who probably breed "better" dogs (i.e. more champions in the bloodline), but I have been pleased with this breeder's communication/help/advice, and all three of her references had great things to say about her. I exchanged e-mails with someone who has been to her kennel and she assured me that things were very clean, organized, and pups were very well taken care of. This person has also taken her female to be bred with my breeder's stud. I do wish she was closer, but I feel like she's a good pick.


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## Jennifer McClellan

Congrats on the new baby. CJ has been home for 2 weeks now. The only other thing I can recommend is to get lots of sleep now. Even if baby is trained there will be an adjustment period. Make a decision of who is answering the evening, 1 am, 3 am, 5 am etc. wake up calls for the potty and for love. If you have burber carpet get a pair of scissors (CJ is eating our carpet as I type) LOL. REMEMBER: ask lots of questions, take deep breaths when frustrated, don't yell at the new baby for accidents in the house because it is usually our fault and lots of hugs, kisses and praise.


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## Barb E

Congratulations on your addition to be!!

What breeder did you decide on?


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## TxTech

We decided on Double L Bar Kennel & Ranch. They are in Howe, OK. Their website is http://www.doublelbarkennel.com Feel free to check them out and give me your thoughts. I am not overly impressed with their website, as I was with some other breeders. However, they are a Christian couple which my husband and I really like as we ourselves are Christians. And again, for the reasons I stated above, we think they are a good choice. If you look at their site, let me know what you think.


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## Cassidy's Mom

They breed 5 different purebreds and 4 designer breeds? No titles? No OFA on hips? No health testing?


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## TxTech

They do have several breeds, which concerned me at first. However I questioned the breeder about that and she assured me that her females don't produce more than 1 litter in a year, and she usually has a couple of litters at a time. Her sire, "Jag", has champions in his line...his grandsire is straight from Germany with champions in his line. Again, my husband and I are not looking for a dog that is next in line to become a champion. We have NO interest in showing or breeding. 

I do plan on asking the breeder about the hips. I don't see anything about OFA in her contract/agreement, however the contract does state that their puppies "are guaranteed against hip/elbow dysplasia requiring them to be euthanized for humane reasons for the first 26 months of life." 

As far as puppies' health...vaccinations and wormings are kept up with until the puppy leaves the kennel. The breeder provides the buyer with a health record on the pup.


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## Barb E

There are many red flags looking at the website (content and style have nothing to do with them) some Cassidy's Mom mentioned above.
I do think you have made up your mind to purchase from this breeder so I'll just say that it wouldn't be a choice I would make after the many things I have learned since being a member of this site.

I do hope you are very happy with your pup and that he/she is healthy and all you expect!


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## doggiedad

please, please, contact me after you bring your puppy home. i really want to know if it sits, come, shakes, stays and heels at 12 weeks. good luck.


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## WiscTiger

There are other breeders out there, personally I would do a pass on this one.

There is a kennel in Stillwater / McAllister, OK. She has a litter now from a male she bred but sold and a female she bred. I really like one of her males Diego.

http://www.brushcreekkennels.com/current_litters.htm

Tracy is challenged when it comes to updating her website, so I think the OFA Prelims are finals. Tracy is honest, try giving her a call and talking with her.


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: doggiedadplease, please, contact me after you bring your puppy home. i really want to know if it sits, come, shakes, stays and heels at 12 weeks. good luck.


Hm...am I sensing a little sarcasm here? A little need for a "I told you so." Is that really necessary? At least I am asking questions and getting advice. At least I am not just blindly choosing a breeder and believing that the dog I get will be perfect when I get it. Give me some credit here.

Also, I am not completely dedicated to going with this breeder. I have not signed anything. I have not paid her anything. I have not even giver her a verbal "ok" that we are going to use her. If everyone here feels that she would be a bad choice, I am open to looking for another breeder. However, I am not just going to go with the best one I can find. Money is a factor. There is an excellent looking breeder in Amarillo, TX (only 2 hours away from me) but their puppies start at around $1,500. I'm sorry, but I feel that someone can get a perferctly fine, healthy, purebred companion for less than that. Right now I am not willing to pay $1,500 for a dog. The expenses on top of the cost of the dog would bring the total to at least $2,000. I know that for most of them their cost is warranted (they are imported with a bloodline full of champions, etc.). But I don't think that is NECESSARY when someone is just looking for a GSD that is first and foremost a companion. Yes, we want a dog with an even temperament. Yes, we want a dog that comes from a healthy and successfull bloodline. But I do not think that this means we should automatically have to pay over $1,000 for the dog itself.


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## lhczth

If they can not provide proof of OFA, PennHip or the German 'a' stamp (highly unlikely) I would find another breeder. To not do the bare minimum of health testing bespeaks a breeder that is either lazy or doesn't care about the puppies they are producing.

Even someone that wants a wonderful pet should still expect exceptional nerves, temperament, and health. How are they testing their breeding stock to make sure they are suitable for breeding? They "guarantee" their puppies only if they will end up so crippled by 26 months that they must be killed? What about crippled enough to need surgery or crippled enough that they only live a short painful life? 

It can take years to get enough experience in one breed and a lifetime to breed that one breed well. They are breeding 5 different breeds and a bunch of fancy named mixes.


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## TxTech

So...the other breeder I was considering is in Abilene, TX (not too far from us). http://www.prok9trainer.com

Those of you who are actually interested in helping, please let me know what you think of his services. Again, his website isn't the greatest...wish it provided more information. He is a professional dog trainer (see his "About Us" section), but he also breeds.


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## SunCzarina

http://www.brushcreekkennels.com/current_litters.htm

I'm liking this kennel too, Diego is very hunky, with the pedigree to match! They're also in your price range - $1000 is what you should expect for a sound quality dog. 

2 things concern me about the first breeder - other than what's already mentioned - no pedigrees on the website and the dogs aren't listed in pedigree database.


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## lhczth

This breeder at least has done some things with his dogs; BH, CGC, AD, and the hips and, on some, the elbows are certified. If possible I would go visit this breeder and meet his dogs. Get some references too.


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## Kayla's Dad

> Originally Posted By: HBHI don't see anything about OFA in her contract/agreement, however the contract does state that their puppies "<u>*are guaranteed against hip/elbow dysplasia requiring them to be euthanized for humane reasons for the first 26 months of life.*</u>"


Requiring spay/neuter yes, but requiring euthanizing just due to dysplasia? There are plenty of folks on this board managing their dogs just fine with various levels of dysplasia. You need to ask yourself-if you know you can manage dysplasia, how easy would it be for you to euthanize a dog you've bonded with and raised for two years.


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## BowWowMeow

I read the hip thing as the only guarantee is if the dog has such a bad case of HD that they need to be euthanized. That's no guarantee at all!


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## doggiedad

a little sarcasm, yes, but i really want to know if your pup did the things mentioned at 12 weeks old. you can find a nice dog for less than 1,5000.00. i think you can find a coatie for less. also, i know some places you can get a nice dog for less. i'll PM you. my boy came from a breeder in Amarillo.


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## scannergirl

Of those three that have been linked to, I like http://www.brushcreekkennels.com the best, by a lot. They are very active in the GSD clubs, the dogs in the pedigree have titles, they have certs on their dogs, they breed for temperment, and they seem just a whole lot more professional and knowledgeable than the others.
JMHO, of course.


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## TxTech

> Originally Posted By: doggiedada little sarcasm, yes, but i really want to know if your pup did the things mentioned at 12 weeks old. you can find a nice dog for less than 1,5000.00. i think you can find a coatie for less. also, i know some places you can get a nice dog for less. i'll PM you. my boy came from a breeder in Amarillo.


Please do so, because $1,000 is not reasonable for us right now. I don't see why some breeders out there who appear to have excellent sires and dams (pedigree shown on website) offer their pups at around $500-$800, and others must charge over $1,000.


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## WiscTiger

HBH,
I know that $1000 sounds like a lot of money. I paid $375 for my DeeDee and I love her dearly BUT she has some problems with loud noises, so there are so many things I can't do with her. I wanted to do Agility, but if she hears any loud noises she is so locked in her fear zone that she doesn't always realize that I am right next to her, she wants to escape to who knows where and this can be at our house.

So price can have some bearing on the quality of pup.


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## BowWowMeow

Or you could rescue. My first rescue had the most rock solid nerves you could imagine. And Rafi is an absolute doll. And I had some wonderful foster puppies too! Plus you're saving a life! And if you want to avoid the stress of a puppy you can get a dog who's a bit older. And if you go through a good rescue they have some training and house manners as well. There are tons of great dogs who end up in rescue, especially these days with all the home foreclosures!


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## Barb E

*Usually* the difference between a $500.00 puppy and a $1,000.00+ puppy is the effort the breeder puts into their breeding program.

Though every pup is a "crapshoot" you're stacking the odds in your favor by going to a breeder that uses only titled dogs/bitches (this speaks to trainability etc), has a minimum of OFA/A Stamp hips and hopefully elbows (this speaks to health) and a contract that doesn't make you euthenize your pup should it be dysplastic.


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## JeanKBBMMMAAN

Ohhhhhhhhhh....$1,000 is just the beginning! 

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1671&articleid=1543 has a great article and chart. 

I chose the Wheel of (Possible Mis)Fortune and adopt rescue dogs. Knock wood, some of them have been very healthy and only require your basic vetting. Then I've done two luxating patella surgeries (mixed breed $900/$700), an FHO (mixed breed $800), have one PB GSD with Pannus ($5000 over 13 year anticipated lifetime for eye drops). So that's 3/8 dogs and I think that's pretty good when just taking a chance on a dog that I adopted not for me, but for them. When they get old is when you really start dropping the bucks. I also have reasonably priced vets. 

If I was getting a dog for me and paying money, I'd be looking for all the bells and whistles. Health and temperament testing from a small hobby kennel where the dogs are involved in the peoples' lives. I would not blink at a higher price for more quality. It would be like thinking I was getting an Audi when I bought a Yugo (do they still make those?). Not that I would compare a dog to an inanimate item, but it's that thought-you get what you pay for most of the time. 

AND, I handed over 12 week old puppies with all those skills (minus the paw thing-that can be a PITA to unlearn), a NILIF base, temperament testing, a socialization list of things they were exposed to (from lawnmowers to skateboarders, small dogs, kids, flags flapping, etc.), a bag of good quality food, careful vetting, the ability to live with cats, etc. for $300 as a rescue foster. 

Keep researching-if I were buying a puppy, or looking at a rescue, I would be doing what you are doing! Good work!


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## Lauri & The Gang

> Originally Posted By: doggiedad every breeder i know you can visit the new borns.


Not me.

Been there. Done that. Had some "buyers" bring Parvo into my house even though I expressly asked everyone NOT to go to another breeders house before coming to mine. And the people didn't mention it until AFTER they had been handling the pups for about an hour.

I lost 2 of the pups in that litter. NEVER again.

I have plenty of dog people I know and trust that help with socialization.


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## TxTech

Well, I think I have come to a decision. After reading some more, looking up some other breeders, and talking to my husband (which helped a lot...you know, just listening to yourself process it out loud to someone else) I have decided that I am going to embrace the philosophy of "you get what you pay for." I already subscribed to that philosphy as it related to rescue dogs versus breeders. However, I am embracing it a little more now in the sense that I am willing to pay around $1,000 for a quality dog from a quality breeder. What this means for us is that we will have to wait (again!) to get a GSD. We just don't have that kind of money right now. But I am willing to wait and save up money because I know it will mean that we really get what we want. I do still think that $1,000 should be our cap because we will not be paying for a dog that we want to breed or show. I think upwards of $1,000 means that you should be getting a pet who is worthy of breeding or showing in the future. And that isn't what we want. 

Anyway, so I am going to have to put this on hold...even longer than I already have...so that we can save up some more money and go with a better breeder so that we know what we are getting and that we are getting our money's worth. 

Speaking of quality breeders, I found a nice looking breeder in Albuquerque, NM. My husband may be doing an internship there this summer which means he will be living there, which means I will be visiting him there a lot. That means we will be able to visit the kennel, more than once if we want to! Thinking about that makes me excited! Their website is http://www.baerental.com


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## kelso

Good luck with finding your pup and sounds like he/she will have a fantastic home


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## KCandMace

Hmmm Lots to think about in this thread. I am not interested in show lines but working lines. And this was our factor in finding the right pups for us. It wasn't about papers either. Neither one of our pups will be papered even though the parents are. Also both parents are HD and ED free. But because we didn't care about papers we don't have to pay as much. We are still bringing home a boy that we choose with their help, he comes with a toy, a blanket that has his mom and siblings scent, fully vaxed and dewormed and chipped plus a little of the food they give their pups. They are socialized with other dogs of various sizes, farm animals, children of all ages. We could go to visit as often as we liked if only we weren't 4 hours away. 
While I also commend you for checking things out with the breeder I agree that the one in particular you were looking at had some very questionable policies.
I am glad you decided to go with a different breeder. Designer breeds? I guess they weren't that serious about purebreeds.








You will find the perfect pup and it will have the perfect name. 
Do you have an idea of the markings and coat you want? IE short or long coat, solid black or red? or maybe even the black and tan saddleback? What about size? Maybe a different form of German shep like a Shiloh shepherd or a King shepherd? I dunno, just throwing out more ideas for you. 
I think so far you have been doing great in all that you are planning. now to just get that pup home!


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## TxTech

We definitely want a short coat. As far as colors/markings...we prefer the black & tan. We don't really like the darker red color. We like the traditional look (I guess that's the saddleback). My husband always calls it black and khaki! =)


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## StGeorgeK9

I have to agree about the bedding, Ava destroyed three beds before she was mature enough (and I became smarter) not to do it, I would use towels at first and see how it goes from there. I wished I had socialized more, she is an awesome dog, but now a bit exciteable for a bit around new dogs. She loves them but her manners still need work. As far as basic training? I think you guys will do awesome, books by Patricia McConnell are ones that I loved the best. Clicker training was awesome for my girl at a very early age on. I still use it to teach new behaviors. I certainly think this is well thought out, but just keep in mind, that all these things are guidelines, you will probably have to borrow from several places to get the perfect recipe for your pup, they really dont come with instructional manuals and they are all wonderfully different. Congratualtions again, and i cant wait to see the pics!!!


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