# Developing a consistent bark and hold



## gagsd (Apr 24, 2003)

What are some ways, from the handler's and helper's perspective, to maintain a bark and hold in position?
By that I mean a dog that likes to jump up, down, and all around then run forward hit the leash, back up, circle and start all over again.

I have moved from a harness to a collar for starters.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

Have you tried advancing the dog to the helper when it barks? As the dog barks you move forward. If the dog starts to spin or jump, stop the forward movement. Conversely, have the dog bark and the helper can move to the dog. The general idea is that strong barking gets the dog closer to the helper. Usually, if you move forward steadily the dog will not spin.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

A table or platform works great for teaching it. It will stop any spinning and keep the dog in a zone to set up and get a rhythm going. I think a prong collar works well, because the dog doesn't lean into it as they would a harness. A flat, fursaver or agitation collar may restrict or weaken the barking.


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## szariksdad (Jun 25, 2010)

First how old of a dog and are we talking work in a blind or in general?


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

I wouldn't start in the blind, that comes later after you get the consistent powerful barking with confidence. The dog needs to be out of prey mode as well.


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## gagsd (Apr 24, 2003)

Dog is a year and a half. Very high prey drive. 

Jim, yes that is how we are working it now. We have only done two sessions so far, and I am still working on timing and leash handling .


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## gagsd (Apr 24, 2003)

Also..... not in the blind, out in the field.
We tried working on a platform but I am quite concerned about injury. It does not limit the leaping, which quickly resulted in badly skinned stifles.


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## GatorDog (Aug 17, 2011)

Have you been keeping constant pressure downward on the leash? I've noticed that with some dogs in my club, it limits the jumping and spinning. I think that better, more consistent barking will come with more experience/training. I do agree with Slamdunc as well when it comes to moving slowly towards the helper to introduce a correct bark and hold.


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## Slamdunc (Dec 6, 2007)

If you back tie the dog, have the helper move forward only when the dog is barking. Have a second leash on the dog attached to a prong collar and give little (tiny, small) pops on the leash with the prong. Small pops will enhance the drive and barking. These are not corrections, a prong can be used to build intensity and cause intense barking in this way. Since you have the second leash, you can control the dogs movement as well. If the dog starts to spin or jump the decoy backs up. When the dog is barking and focused the decoy moves in. This is how I would try it for a SchH dog, a police dog would be a little different. 

good luck,


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## szariksdad (Jun 25, 2010)

Jim had had some good ides. But if this also only the dogs second session, do you think some of this might be displacement that the dog is showing since it does not know what to do in its own mind yet, as to how to handle the situation.


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## gagsd (Apr 24, 2003)

This is probably 12 sessions total. Dog just gets a little cuckoo over cocoa puffs for protection.... Love her
I am thinking that if we just continue on our path, she will start to get it and stabilize. Usually about the time I start to worry about something, it works itself out and I see it was just a stage. 

Another dog I know is doing it similar to Jim's second post. Back-tied and a second leash on the prong.

Thanks for the input!


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## hunterisgreat (Jan 30, 2011)

I used a platform like this.. no injuries so far:










Agree with Jim. Also, if a dog is being too playful or not taking it serious but already understands what he/she is supposed to be doing, the next time the dog comes in for a B&H I attack hard into the dog the instant they come in. The very next send in is always much more intense and much more rhythmic in my experience. Some dogs need to be reminded the helper is a shady guy that needs to be watched intensely cause he's gonna get ya if you aren't paying attention


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## Witz (Feb 28, 2011)

The trainer I work with uses a panel of a 3 ft section of chain link fence. If the dog is prey driven, the fence acts as barrier, which will allow the dog to feel safe and frustrate them at the same time. The decoy keeps the sleeve just below the top behind the fence and should reward immediately if the dog barks and requests the sleeve. The decoy should only reward a strong "I really want that sleeve" bark. Over time the dog will start a rythmic bounce and bark at the fence, because they only get the sleeve close to the top of the fence. It's all about wanting something that is just out of their reach. He will also slap the sleeve against the fence to get them even more crazy for it. The next step is that you will bring your dog around the barrier/fence and see if they will continue in the open field.


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