# Level 1 Protection dog Training



## derekscriv2008 (Jan 30, 2011)

I have a german shepheard pup named Duke. He is currently 4 months old and I would like to teach him level 1 protection (on command). The barking at the end of the leash the lunging and showing the teeth, and guarding the house to the point of alerting us when an intruder comes into the house. To the point that if the intruder decides he wants to come in he is going to have major problems :hug:

i would like to start this training at 5-6 months of age. if you have any tips or trainning plans i would very much appreciate it. Or have any ideas where i could recieve plans or places that i might look into to become a student along with duke at a trainning school

anything helps!


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## Castlemaid (Jun 29, 2006)

You should post below in the Schutzhund section or the K9 police and protection dog section - the protection dog section is not very active, but new posts usually get answered by knowledgeable people.

I don't think that there are official protection levels - different trainers use different terms. You will have a lot of people come on here and tell you that it is not your puppy's job to protect you, but your job to protect him - and I agree with the sentiment. 

However I don't think there is anything wrong with proper, knowledgeable training as you describe it, but I hope you realize you will have to wait until your pup is mentally mature to actually be protective, which could be when he is around 2 or 3 years old. 

This is not something that you can really teach on your own - eventually you will need a trainer to play the part of the bad guy and have your pup alert on him. I'd contact a Schutzhund club - but most clubs will not teach just the protection phase, and will expect members to participate and train in all three phases. 

There are private trainers out there too, but finding a good one is hard. Many just use too much threat and too much pressure on young dogs to turn them into fearful, reactive, nerve-bags. Most people cannot really differentiate between an agressive reaction brought on by fear (not good - dog may feel overwhelmed and decide to run), and a truly defensive reaction based on the unbeatable inner belief the dog has they they can whoop this guy!!! 

In the meantime, my tip and suggestion to you would be to build your relationship with your pup, socialize him to the HILT so he has vast exposure to everyday normal people and situations and learns to discriminate between safe and a little weird, and truly odd and threatening people and situations, and play lots and lots of tug with him, getting him amped up for the toy to build his drives, and letting him win always to build his confidence.


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## Emoore (Oct 9, 2002)

Castlemaid said:


> I don't think that there are official protection levels - different trainers use different terms.


What the OP is describing is almost exactly the PA title in SDA (Service dogs of America). 

Derek, if I were you I'd look for a SDA chapter or club near you.


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## Liesje (Mar 4, 2007)

Emoore said:


> What the OP is describing is almost exactly the PA title in SDA (Service dogs of America).
> 
> Derek, if I were you I'd look for a SDA chapter or club near you.


That's exactly what I was thinking. I did a PA with my dog and it involves a lot of control work, training the dog to alert on command, remain alert until recalled, recalling the dog, and the dog alerting when threatened (without command). "Alerting" means going out to the end of the leash and barking/showing some aggression. The PA level does not involve biting (though my dog was already trained to bite for Schutzhund and higher Protection levels on the suit).

If you're going to do this type of work I would wait until the dog is more mature. Often the SDA protection work is more "real" and confrontational than Schutzhund. With a puppy I would focus on developing a strong bond and starting a solid foundation in obedience and control. Maybe when the dog is about a year old, have it evaluated for the protection training.

If you do the SDA protection titles you will also have to complete the obedience parts as well.


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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

i think you should find a professional. i also think you need to
find the right method or steps to proceed with protection traning.
keep in mind if an intruder hears your dog barking and proceeds to enter
the house then the intruder knows they can over power your dog. i had a trainer who's dog was PP trained. if you were breaking into her house she taught her dog to go upstairs and go under the bed if you proceeded to enter the house after hearing the dog bark. her thoughts were if you hear the dog barking barking and you enter the house then you knew you could over power the dog. she didn't want to loose her dog. find professional help and do it right from day one. 

why do you want a PP dog? do you really need that type of dog?



derekscriv2008 said:


> I have a german shepheard pup named Duke. He is currently 4 months old and I would like to teach him level 1 protection (on command). The barking at the end of the leash the lunging and showing the teeth, and guarding the house to the point of alerting us when an intruder comes into the house. To the point that if the intruder decides he wants to come in he is going to have major problems :hug:
> 
> i would like to start this training at 5-6 months of age. if you have any tips or trainning plans i would very much appreciate it. Or have any ideas where i could recieve plans or places that i might look into to become a student along with duke at a trainning school
> 
> anything helps!


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## derekscriv2008 (Jan 30, 2011)

I would love to have a PP dog and the question of do i really need it no, I work on base and live on base. i would like to start attending competions with the Military Working Dogs on base. Also im am looking to start a family and would hate to have to move somewhere where its less "protected" and the dog and the house to fall sort with secuirty.


*Level 1*
THREAT DOG

The level 1 dog is trained to show an aggressive display on command. This dog will lunge, show teeth, and bark aggressively at the end of the leash towards any aggressor who tries to approach once his "protect" command is given. Weapons, yelling, or other forms of intimidation will not cause this dog to back down. Although this dog will most likely bite if an aggressor physically challenged the dog, the level 1 dog is not specifically trained how to most effectively fight the aggressor as is the level 2 dog. The level 1 dog's main purpose is as a deterrent (which is usually enough for most situations


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## GSDElsa (Jul 22, 2009)

Please enlist the assistance of an experienced PPD trainer.


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## derekscriv2008 (Jan 30, 2011)

I am currently in the seach for a PPD trainer just attemping to see what people thought. Trying to put more heads together to make sure i get the right training for my dog. he is freindly and a great dog and i would hate to hinder that by using a trainer that had no idea what he was doing. i want to never lose the confidence that I am in control of the dog. do you know what i mean when he walks up to a little kid i never want to have that split second of well what is he going to do.


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## JKlatsky (Apr 21, 2007)

Generally an aggressive display done in the barking needs to wait until the dog is more mentally mature than 5 or 6 months old. The dog has to be tough enough to handle the pressure and it also very desirable for the dog to show a certain amount of natural suspicion or sharpness. This will make it easier to tap into when you do train the dog. However, this has the other edge to it where you are going to have to keep up with the socializing. Generally the awesome family pet has solid nerves, a high threshold for defense and pretty moderate to low suspicion. A PPD should have a lower threshold for defense and more natural suspicion...but still the good nerves. 

You will HAVE to get with someone experienced because this is simply not something you can do on your own. A decoy who pushes too hard at the wrong moment can destroy the dog's confidence as he's learning to treat a threat with aggression, so it's critical to have someone who really knows what they are doing.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

doggiedad said:


> i had a trainer who's dog was PP trained. if you were breaking into her house she taught her dog to go upstairs and go under the bed if you proceeded to enter the house after hearing the dog bark. her thoughts were if you hear the dog barking barking and you enter the house then you knew you could over power the dog. she didn't want to loose her dog. find professional help and do it right from day one.


No offense but I wouldn't want a PP dog like that. Wouldn't even consider it a PP dog. I want my dog to be confident. The house is his and see's it as such.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Ok......
What are you doing with the dog right now?
Are you building his prey drive and if so how?
Have you found any trainers out there in Wyoming?
Who have you seen work their dogs in person?
Level 1 Protection is just an Alert bark.
Bite work would be Level 2.
Stay away from SchH or any other "sport" because you are not wanting a sport dog but rather a PPD dog. There is a big difference.

Ok let me go back. You said that you want a PPD & that you want to do competitions. What kind of competitions? If you want to do competitions thats ok, join a club for that particular sport. Do that "sport" first and then when you are done, then you can move to training the dog for PPD. 

Having a dog alert bark and then taking on a attacker are 2 separate things that have to be trained for and that is more than a level 1.

You want a clear headed social dog with a "on & off switch". You can have that for sure. You want that puppy to be a lover before you turn him into a killer.


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## Emoore (Oct 9, 2002)

Ace952 said:


> No offense but I wouldn't want a PP dog like that. Wouldn't even consider it a PP dog. I want my dog to be confident. The house is his and see's it as such.


I wouldn't consider it a PP dog, but I wouldn't say it's lack of confidence. The dog is just doing what it's trained to do. If somebody breaks into a house with a barking dog, obviously they are prepared to deal with the dog. . . probably by killing it. I'm training Rocky (and will train Kopper) to alert bark like maniacs at intruders outside the house, but to run and get behind me if anyone breaks in. After all, my 12-gauge has a wide shot pattern and I'd hate to hit them by mistake.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Emoore said:


> I wouldn't consider it a PP dog, but I wouldn't say it's lack of confidence. The dog is just doing what it's trained to do. If somebody breaks into a house with a barking dog, obviously they are prepared to deal with the dog. . . probably by killing it. I'm training Rocky (and will train Kopper) to alert bark like maniacs at intruders outside the house, but to run and get behind me if anyone breaks in. After all, my 12-gauge has a wide shot pattern and I'd hate to hit them by mistake.


LOL!! Now i can understand that!


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## hunterisgreat (Jan 30, 2011)

The proper base for a protection dog is a confident, high prey drive, obedient dog that really wants to train. Your job right now is to create a dog a professional trainer/helper can work with... it is next to impossible to have a PPD that is personally trained. Bitework is inherently a two man operation with you not being on the business end. this means you should be building prey drive, building focus, teaching obedience, and working on building his confidence. You want him enthusiasticly doing bitework and having fun, not showing teeth as all this starts as a big fun game for the dog. A dog that is showing teeth is working in defensive drive (he's scared the aggressor is going to hurt him if he doesn't bite). Things to do for now:
Always play with towels, bite pillows, and such as though rapidly moving them in front of the dog (you want the dog to look like the way a kitten plays with a string). When he chases it well and makes good bites he wins the toy... when he drops the toy or isn't paying attention you snatch it back. Do this every day for the rest of the dogs life 
Take the dog out and around places foreign to him that will put him under *a little* pressure. Keep stepping it up if the dog is getting comfortable wherever you are. Make the dog go over less than stable surfaces. I take my dogs down docks, on floating dogs, jump on my patio tables, and whatever else is a little sketchy underfoot. All these things help build confidence in the dog. 
If you want a dog that is actually going to bite (and this is trained, not natural), you need to encourage him to be mouthy... no reprimanding him for mouthing your hands or shoe laces or pants legs.
You should also probably start working on training him/her to bark on command
Finally, remember that puppies should never ever be in defensive drive.

Most important part is to find a professional

BTW, its pretty rare for military dogs or police dogs cross train with civilians.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

I agree with a lot that Hunter said.

I will add that right now you should be focusing on the flirt pole. Just you and your pup and the flirt pole.

No more than 3x a week with 2 sessions each time & let the session last for a max of 10 minutes. You don't want to burn your pupp out and keep it short sessions and fun. Anymore at this age is overkill and can do more harm than good.

i.e. Mon, Wed & Fri each day 2 sessions. 7 am session and a 6pm session. 10 min max each session. Build up that prey drive.

I think a great dog should have 50% defense & 50% prey. 
Now for myself I prefer 70% defense 30% prey for my PP but again that is my preference as he doesn't do any "sport" work. 

Since you said you want to do sport as well you want balance so 50/50 = defense/prey. 

You should be working on the flirt pole, basic ob (sit, down, loose heel, out & short stay) & getting his recall to be close to 100% as possible.


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## hunterisgreat (Jan 30, 2011)

Just realized I have a typo.... I don't take my dogs on floating dogs... rather, floating docks lol

Agree with Ace... the dog/pup should never end the training session tired & disinterested. You always end with him wanting to keep going. 

I will say this though... the OP should not have his dog in defensive drive at all ever (right now, at his training ability). Not because that isn't an important part and absolutely necessary for a real PPD, but because his inexperience is more than likely going to hurt the situation. 

I think that when really trying to transition a sport dog to a PPD, the bite work should be majority defensive drive... or the grey area of "fight drive" that I think is really just a mix of both drives.

Finally, remember that a PPD is mostly useful as a deterrent. A persistent premeditated threat is just going to shoot your dog


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## cliffson1 (Sep 2, 2006)

Go to sdadatabase.com and read up on SDA(Service Dogs of America), you may find it is something along the lines you are seeking.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

I agree hunter. At that age, it should be all prey and all of it should be fun.


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## dOg (Jan 23, 2006)

Your puppy is still too young for bitework because he will soon be loosing teeth and getting adult ones and until they are all in, it would be painful not fun. Keep this in mind even with a flirt pole, and by all means, take advantage of this time to build the bond playing fun games, but be mindful of the teething.


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## damaya (Feb 1, 2011)

Hunter and Ace- that was good advice right there.

Not that I am any kind of expert, (nor do I play one on the internet) but that goes exactly like I am learning. I had the opportunity to watch my first training session last Friday night. That was the method taught. Nothing but fun for the younger ones, but totally different game for the big dogs at the end. Completely impressive. 6 month olds were out there chasing the sock on a stick while "Dirk" I think, made the guy dress out in the "big suit". 

I am on a waiting list and am intrigued by protection training. While advanced obedience is for sure I realize the protection is a serious full on commitment. Not to mention having the right temperment is a must. I can see where all dogs are certainly not candidates for this as well not all owners.

Good advice here though. Thanks.


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## gagsd (Apr 24, 2003)

Why do you guys think all prey, and building prey, is the way to go?


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## damaya (Feb 1, 2011)

short uneducated answer_ it seemed to be effective for the dogs I watched last friday

honest uneducated question;
You can see my number of posts. I am merely learning all I can. I looked at your site and saw mostly links to training suggestion sites. I don't understand your question. Not trying to pick an e-fight, but honestly what does that mean, and what would you suggest to prepare a pup for protection training later.


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## JKlatsky (Apr 21, 2007)

From someone who has dogs with a ton of natural prey drive...once you put all that foundation on them in prey only they can get locked in prey...it can get ugly when you try to get into defense as adults. 

Early prey foundation can be good for a pup that tends more towards the defense side...but good work is all about balance...not just in the long run but from the very beginning.

Preparing a pup for bitework mostly just has to do with building confidence and not messing up what they genetically bring to the table. Sure you can play tug, teach physical play, let the dog win...but really protection work doesn't need to be formally started (I would argue that it probably shouldn't be formally started...) until the pup is older. Especially if you are looking at a Protection Dog and not a sport dog. (Although I also agree with others that a sport dog with the right characteristics most certainly can be transitioned to a protection dog later on down the road)


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## hunterisgreat (Jan 30, 2011)

gagsd said:


> Why do you guys think all prey, and building prey, is the way to go?


Right now and in this circumstance b/c:

1. Dog is 4 months old. Way too young to be in defense
2. He has little experience, so even if the dog wasn't that young, not sure he'd know what drive the dog is in, and its much safer to experiment in prey than in defense. He has to learn to, and I'd rather not offer advice that creates problems in the process.

I have a pretty good handle on this whole thing, and I am uncomfortable working dog in defense without a much more experienced and seasoned helper's eye validating the things I'm seeing. In other words, I refuse to train with someone much better than I present and paying attention.


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## derekscriv2008 (Jan 30, 2011)

i have worked with the military working dogs all my life, and i personally no idea how to train them to MWD standard. now i am currently going in to MWD in USAF. But all our pups come pretrained so thats why why question came about. as for prey drive it isnt that bc all MWD are trained to respond to "kong" they work for that kong and nothing else


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## Castlemaid (Jun 29, 2006)

Working for a toy is working in prey drive.  The toy is the prey.


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## Liesje (Mar 4, 2007)

hunterisgreat said:


> Right now and in this circumstance b/c:
> 
> 1. Dog is 4 months old. Way too young to be in defense
> 2. He has little experience, so even if the dog wasn't that young, not sure he'd know what drive the dog is in, and its much safer to experiment in prey than in defense. He has to learn to, and I'd rather not offer advice that creates problems in the process.
> ...


I agree, and I also think prey is good for encouraging targeting skills (chasing, launching, and biting the correct part of the toy or sleeve). When I play flirt pole with my puppy I'm not trying to do actual "bitework" with him but it's really just a game to teach him how to chase down and catch (target) something. I don't really care if the drive itself transfers into protection work later on, that's not what's important right now. If you plan on training real protection, targeting is an important skill. I'm working this foundation with a 5 month old puppy, but have a 2.5 year old dog who is learning to target different areas of the body in his bitework. Bitework is not a free-for-all. When I send my dog I don't want him playing a prey game and snapping at legs or ankles, I want him attached to the decoy's armpit.


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## gagsd (Apr 24, 2003)

I used a flirt pole with my adult female. She was naturally defensive in bitework, and had some bite-work training that made her worse. The flirt pole worked well for her.

I have concerns using it with puppies.... all of the twisting and turning at high speeds with fairly sharp angles.

For my boys I never tried to build any prey-- as they were born chasing, grabbing, biting monsters and needed to think more, not chase/bite, as youngsters.


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## Jason L (Mar 20, 2009)

derekscriv2008 said:


> i have worked with the military working dogs all my life, and i personally no idea how to train them to MWD standard. now i am currently going in to MWD in USAF. But all our pups come pretrained so thats why why question came about. as for prey drive it isnt that bc all MWD are trained to respond to "kong" they work for that kong and nothing else


That's interesting. So the military and LE standardize the training reward? A few K9 handlers train with our SchH group from time to time and everyone of them use a blue kong as the reward toy. I always wonder about that


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## Liesje (Mar 4, 2007)

I think it just depends how you use it. I don't whip it around, no sharp angles, no leaping in the air. My current pup is really laid back right now, not a prey monster. He likes to crouch down, stare at it, and then pounce on it. Very "calculating" little fella. We do straight lines and wide circles. Just a piece of an old towel on a string.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Liesje said:


> I agree, and I also think *prey is good for encouraging targeting skills (chasing, launching, and biting the correct part of the toy or sleeve).* When I play flirt pole with my puppy I'm not trying to do actual "bitework" with him but *it's really just a game to teach him how to chase down and catch (target) something. I don't really care if the drive itself transfers into protection work later on, that's not what's important right now. If you plan on training real protection, targeting is an important skill.* I'm working this foundation with a 5 month old puppy, but have a 2.5 year old dog who is learning to target different areas of the body in his bitework. Bitework is not a free-for-all. When I send my dog I don't want him playing a prey game and snapping at legs or ankles, I want him attached to the decoy's armpit.


 
That is exactly it. Very well said.


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## Tim Connell (Nov 19, 2010)

Prey! Prey! Prey! Especially for puppies and young dogs...and many dogs should never see defense until way down the road...a true "prey monster" with an overwhelming amount of prey can get through many scenarios on prey alone and then when it shifts from prey to "defense"/"fight" once on the bite, the dog is on, and will hopefully stay on, and bring that fight to the man...at least that is what we hope for...as for defense before the bite...whole different issue...it also depends on the breed, the individual dog, and what the goals are for the task at hand...sport, police, reality based protection, etc.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Oh and most important ........work out teaching the pup to out. Im doing it on a 6 month old pup and it is a pain. Would have been so much easier if done earlier on.


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## Tim Connell (Nov 19, 2010)

@Ace952...have you tried teaching the out using play/motivation for a tug, as in the method Balabanov has popularized? Out/reward/out/reward...basically, it seems to me that the reward of play is so high on the rebite, that the dog looks forward to outing, so they can rebite and play, if that makes sense. My Mal took to it immediately as a young dog, and it has transferred into him outing cleanly with no conflict at all in his bitework...which is done the same way, outing off a sleeve or suit, decoy comes back alive, then rebite for reward, using the same concept, so he always knows there is a reward for the proper behavior of outing...now that I learned this, I'll never worry again about having to use compulsion to teach a dog to out. (hopefully)Timing is critical, so it's great if you can have someone teach you. I was fortunate to have someone who is a great trainer, with great timing, teach me...and admittedly, do much of the foundation of imprinting this behavior in my dog.

Once they have the out mastered, you can then use the tug as the reward for obedience, and integrate the out, obedience exercise, (sit, down, heel, whatever) bite for reward, (high value reward with lots of play), then out, and repeat...then the dog starts to see the out as an obedience exercise in a way, and not always just to give up a sleeve or whatever prey they just won, with conflict to pull them off of it.

Now that he is older (approaching 2) and advancing rapidly, the out is a non issue. He directly related outing/reward with his bitework, and it has resulted in zero conflict, right from the first out off the sleeve while it was still on the man. Always clean (so far). Probably just jinxed myself.:crazy:


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Thanks for the advice Tim!

Funny, my breeder/trainer mentioned that guy to me and I need to check out his videos for sure. I am doing exactly as you state. When he outs he gets the another bite as the reward. Right now since I didn't work the out with my previous trainer, my dog refuses to let go and it takes time for him to finally release it. Of course I give him another bite as a reward.

He is just super high drive and stubborn. Shows this should have been done when he was younger as it would have been way easier. Last night I probably screwed myself but I used a treat.

i gave him the out command (pust) and had the treat in my other hand. He let go and I praised him and gave him the treat. I did this a number of times and of course it worked. Today I will try without any treat and see how it goes. I agree I rather him release because he knows he will get another bite. I refuse to choke him off b/c I want him to release it b/c he knows he will get it again.


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## Tim Connell (Nov 19, 2010)

Wait him out..hold the tug locked motionless...I hold both ends, and brace against my knees..wait him out...even if its ridiculously long at first..as soon as he gets bored..since the "prey" isn't live... he lets go, you bring it back to life, and the game begins again...


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Tim Connell said:


> Wait him out..hold the tug locked motionless...I hold both ends, and brace against my knees..wait him out...even if its ridiculously long at first..as soon as he gets bored..since the "prey" isn't live... he lets go, you bring it back to life, and the game begins again...


 
Ok I will continue to wait him out rather than using treats. I swear I have time to read War & Peace while trying to wait him out. I keep motionless and he stops and then he just goes back to yanking. Drives me nuts.
Try after I get home from work and keep you posted.


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## Tim Connell (Nov 19, 2010)

Be patient...it can be frustrating as they try to "self reward" by pulling ...ignore it and freeze...think "dead prey"...dead prey is no fun for the dog..they will eventually spit it out...


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Well he is getting better. Worked for about 15 minutes. At first he kept trying to "self reward" but eventually stopped. Was nice to see him out. Would be nice if he did it after the first out command but hey im willing to take it slow and be happy with his progress so far. I need to make a video. Just need to get someone to record.

A lot better. Sunday he was pulling and spinning around me. This is the 4th session as far as working on the out.


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## Tim Connell (Nov 19, 2010)

Good! Success! He's only 6 months so keep it short, sweet, and positive. Keep it fun for the dog, and put him up if he or you get frustrated. Tomorrow is another day. The best dogs are sometimes the ones that are not rushed. "Babysteps".  Keep me posted and lemme know if you need anything.


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## Ace952 (Aug 5, 2010)

Tim Connell said:


> Good! Success! He's only 6 months so keep it short, sweet, and positive. Keep it fun for the dog, and put him up if he or you get frustrated. Tomorrow is another day. The best dogs are sometimes the ones that are not rushed. "Babysteps".  Keep me posted and lemme know if you need anything.


You know that is the hard part, trying to keep things short and sweet.
I look forward to getting home today and seeing the progress. Will keep you posted!!


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## John E (Jun 13, 2013)

Doberman Pinschers have been used often throughout history and are now employed in security, police, and military roles. I think that in many countries, Doberman Pinschers are one of the most recognizable breeds, in part because of their actual roles in society, and in part because of media attention


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## Blitzkrieg1 (Jul 31, 2012)

John E said:


> Doberman Pinschers have been used often throughout history and are now employed in security, police, and military roles. I think that in many countries, Doberman Pinschers are one of the most recognizable breeds, in part because of their actual roles in society, and in part because of media attention
> 
> Barking attack dogs - YouTube


The US army used them during WW2 but the captain in charge of the program recommended they be decomissioned due to poor health and nerve. He did mention there were some exceptions but generally found the dogs to be sub par. Probably much easier to find a nice GSD or Mal.


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## cliffson1 (Sep 2, 2006)

Dobes are seldom used for police or military in U.S......one of the reasons is their inability to handle either extreme hot weather, or extreme cold weather. Plus it is extremely difficult to find a strong nerved good working Dobe anymore. Plus they have big time Cardio issues. Once was a great working dog....very seldom these days.


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## pets4life (Feb 22, 2011)

if you havea good dog it will be very very easy to train with a decent trainer, sport trainer even 

the dog will catch on very quick what you want him to do when you give them the command. You want them to fire up. Then lots of praise. I have done this before. Just becareful if too much pressure is put on the dog by a bad decoy they will fold. And some dogs just dont like to do that some are not barkers some are too friendly and you can't change that. So your dog has to be the type. If it is a well bred dog working or show it should be very easy to learn with very little pressure. Your dog will figure out what you want and will do it extra hard just to please you.

Just my experience. It is a show though remember. One or 2 lessons the dog will go off on 1 word like cuju and then be all happy about it. Its good to have some kind of reward. Like a burlap sack or something or anything your dog likes. Just teaching your dog that barking looking scary trick doesnt make them as big of a liability. JMHO

My pp trainer never trains dobes to a full level pp dog just like cliff said. They dont have it in them to be one. THey can be trained to bark though.


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## ssyed5 (May 20, 2015)

*My 6 month GS went away for walk with someone.*

Dear Friends,

My 6 month old GS is overly friendly with anyone she see's. She gets soo excited that she lies down in the feet of unknown people and wants them to pet her. just last week our door accidently remained open and she went out and went away with 2 ladies who were walking. i finally managed to find her after 2 hours.

what i want to know is that is this normal for 6 month old puppy for such action? Instead i want her to stay no matter at home and be protective and not trust everybody.

I would appreciate some tips.

Regards,

Saad.


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