# So upset. How can I train my dog to completely ignore small dogs?



## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Today I was at the only field near us where I can play and train with my dog. (Hate my city and moving soon thankfully). It’s a huge field and usually when I see another dog coming near, I leave ASAP. It’s so big though that many dogs can be there at once and not be near each other. I like to control who my dog interacts with and I’ve been working on getting her to ignore small dogs which has been going well. She’s started ignoring small dogs even on walks and every dog unless I give her the Ok command because it’s a dog we know. 

But today... I’m SO upset. We were at the park and this woman RUNS up behind us with a small dog and she’s on her phone of course. I don’t see her immediately and by the time I do, it’s too late to grab my dog. My dog starts running over to play. I tried to call back my dog and she totally FAILED. 

Before my dog even gets there, the small dog (Have I mentioned how much I HATE small dogs?) rolls on its back and starts screaming like my puppy was trying to kill it. Meanwhile, my dog seriously is 7-10 feet away! 

The owner starts screaming at me and now my dog is excited by all the commotion and runs the rest of the way over. Does not knock over the small dog (it keeps throwing itself on the ground screaming) but starts trying to play immediately. I don’t think my dog understood at ALL that the small dog was upset. 

I’m absolutely ashamed and really sick over this that I didn’t have control over my dog. 

I did also JUST see the same idiot owner yesterday with the same dog at the same field as I was leaving. And the same thing happened with a lab puppy and that dog. Her small dog was hysterically crying while the literal lab puppy was just trying to play. And nowhere near the dog. And the puppy was much smaller than my dog as well. 

We’re immediately going back to on leash and a long lead at all times because her recall is usually 100% even when playing with a dog we know so she has to earn back trust now as she completely failed. 

But what else should I do? I want to nip this in the bud ASAP. As far as I’m concerned, she’ll be on lead now until the cows come home. But I’d love other tips/advice on how I can deal with this and how I can do better. I would love to go to 100% no playing with other dogs but I take care of aging parents so half her life is spent with their dog. My sister is also my pet care person on trips and it’s not feasible to keep my dog from playing with their dog at all either.


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## Pytheis (Sep 23, 2016)

Was the small dog also off leash? What would have happened if your dog had been leashed and you kept her with you? Would the small dog eventually have come up to you? You can’t control other off leash dogs, unfortunately. If the other dog was leashed and yours was the problem, leashing her again is the right response.

I don’t have any advice re working on ignoring small dogs other than exposing your girl to them and keeping distance and her focus on you. If she knows leave it, maybe you can use that command around small dogs.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Pytheis said:


> Was the small dog also off leash? What would have happened if your dog had been leashed and you kept her with you? Would the small dog eventually have come up to you? You can’t control other off leash dogs, unfortunately. If the other dog was leashed and yours was the problem, leashing her again is the right response.
> 
> I don’t have any advice re working on ignoring small dogs other than exposing your girl to them and keeping distance and her focus on you. If she knows leave it, maybe you can use that command around small dogs.


Yes it was off leash. It was already approaching us. It tried the same thing yesterday so that’s why we left. She was ready to leave it on command until the dog started screaming it’s head off and she had to explore at that point. 

Should I have her on leash and try to train her around them? There’s a dog park nearby by and I could work on using that as a distraction. Guide dogs for the blind actually uses the same dog park as a distraction for training. Lol. 

Is it my mistake that I haven’t been exposing her to enough small dogs?


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## Pytheis (Sep 23, 2016)

I would train her on leash around all kinds of dogs, including small, if I were you. It honestly doesn’t sound like your dog was horrible. Yes, blowing a recall wasn’t any good, and I’m assuming that both dogs were technically supposed to be leashed, but she also wasn’t acting aggressive if she just wanted to play.

IMO, I would have her on a long line from now on, until she’s proven herself capable of working around all dogs — no matter what size. I don’t personally think it’s really a huge deal that you haven’t worked her specifically around small dogs up until this point. Now you know it’s something you need to work on, and you can start.


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## Chuck94! (Feb 8, 2018)

Rollo has his "leave it" command which is pretty much 100%, so that's what I use - I would not have your dog off leash around small dogs until you completely trust them & they know the command 100%. Otherwise, each time they do it, they are reinforcing & making the bad habit stronger & stronger


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## Mei (Mar 30, 2018)

This happened to me not too long ago with a lady walking a little dog past my house. I was letting Mei out and she immediately saw this little white dog (I hate little turd dogs also!!) being walked by its owner. Luckily I was able to get Mei to stop halfway but this dog was also screaming bloody murder and the lady quickly scooped it up and looked at me like she couldn't believe what happened lol. I apologized and said Mei is harmless and just loves playing with any and all dogs.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Pytheis said:


> I would train her on leash around all kinds of dogs, including small, if I were you. It honestly doesn’t sound like your dog was horrible. Yes, blowing a recall wasn’t any good, and I’m assuming that both dogs were technically supposed to be leashed, but she also wasn’t acting aggressive if she just wanted to play.
> 
> IMO, I would have her on a long line from now on, until she’s proven herself capable of working around all dogs — no matter what size. I don’t personally think it’s really a huge deal that you haven’t worked her specifically around small dogs up until this point. Now you know it’s something you need to work on, and you can start.


Thank you so much for saying this. I’m ashamed but I came home shaky and cried. So that’s so nice to hear. She definitely meant it in play. I was thinking I’ve failed as a GSD owner and I should find her a home before I mess her up anymore. ? but she really is a great dog. I’m home with her every day and she has great obedience (besides the NIGHTMARE of today!). 

I think I’ll go to the park more now and just work on a long lead and wait for the small dogs! Lol. 



Chuck94! said:


> Rollo has his "leave it" command which is pretty much 100%, so that's what I use - I would not have your dog off leash around small dogs until you completely trust them & they know the command 100%. Otherwise, each time they do it, they are reinforcing & making the bad habit stronger & stronger


Completely agree with this. She had just earned it with 100% recall and then clearly forgot herself in the excitement so she’s just completely and utterly lost that privilege. She’ll definitely be on leash for a long long time now. Thank you. I definitely don’t want to ever make today a habit. I was devastated. Meanwhile my dog is as happy as could be that a little dog was playing with her lol.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

You teach your dog a solid DOWN and a solid LEAVE IT. And then you proof them. IMO, both of these are emergency commands and I use them before I use a recall.


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## Tennessee (Apr 13, 2017)

You met a Karen in the wild and lived to tell the tale! Lol

You also learned two valuable lessons today:

1. If you can’t do it under pressure, you haven’t really learned how to do it. Also applies to dogs. 
2. Why everybody hates working retail


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## GSDchoice (Jul 26, 2016)

I think your dog sounds like she has a good temperament (even if not 100% obedient 
If she can't be trusted to be called back from meeting another dog, I'd just keep her on a long line when out in that field. 

Don't be too upset about your dog!

Because, let me tell ya about the big GSD we passed twice this week....
We are walking through the park. A couple is coming with a big GSD. I see them stop short when they see us, and begin speaking to eachother in urgent voices. At the sight of that reaction, I'm like- uh oh! So Rumo and I move to the furthest side of the path, to the very edge of the woods - there's about 15-20 foot of space for passing now.
It's decided to put their dog in a Down, and he obliges. I think, phew, ok, great training.
We are passing now, drawing even...
and their dog explodes out of the Down! Snarling, snapping, lunging. Owner is dragged towards us.
I am praying: "Don't let that collar break!"
And then, thankfully, we are past and I don't look back.
It's happened twice this week (we both like to walk at dusk, after dinner) and if I could ever speak to that poor couple amidst all the snarling and lunging and the fear that he would kill Rumo if we got close...I would like to send them to this forum.

Anyway...in comparison...your dog is nice...


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

I wouldn't feel bad about your dog. Why the little dog behaves that way (rolling over and screaming) is a mystery. But it isn't your fault, it isn't your dog's fault. Your dog did not hurt the little dog. You did not hurt the other human. In my book, you both "pass". I'm not sure I'd be comfortable taking my dogs out to a field in that sort of situation. Some dogs I've had, yes. The current duo -- the occassion's never presented itself.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Tennessee said:


> You met a Karen in the wild and lived to tell the tale! Lol
> 
> You also learned two valuable lessons today:
> 
> ...


Haha!!! I’ve tested her under pressure before but never that much pressure! I’m unsure I can ever recreate an owner screaming and a dog screaming at the same time! LOL. And Thanks! I needed a laugh today!! Karen, ugh.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

GSDchoice said:


> I think your dog sounds like she has a good temperament (even if not 100% obedient
> If she can't be trusted to be called back from meeting another dog, I'd just keep her on a long line when out in that field.
> 
> Don't be too upset about your dog!
> ...


Thank you!! She’s definitely going on a long lead. She’s so smart that I have too high of expectations I guess for her age. I’ll lower them now and start over. 

Okay that story is AWFUL! I’m sorry! that would have really really stressed me out and shot my nerves. That’s terrifying!



middleofnowhere said:


> I wouldn't feel bad about your dog. Why the little dog behaves that way (rolling over and screaming) is a mystery. But it isn't your fault, it isn't your dog's fault. Your dog did not hurt the little dog. You did not hurt the other human. In my book, you both "pass". I'm not sure I'd be comfortable taking my dogs out to a field in that sort of situation. Some dogs I've had, yes. The current duo -- the occassion's never presented itself.


Thank you so much. I’ve felt really terrible about it today and that made me feel a lot better! I’m also upset about the field because there’s NOWHERE else to go. ? I guess really long walks on leash.


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## Chip Blasiole (May 3, 2013)

Long line, e- collar and solid platz as a default in emergencies.


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## saintbob (Jul 14, 2018)

OP just chalk this up as a learning experience and drive on. 

If you want the kind of companion dog that can accompany you in public and stores like TSC, Runnings etc that accept dogs on leashes then well ...it's takes exposure. 

The more the better, then when your dog has experienced just about everything she will more relaxed and receptive to your commands. 

As an aside, what really gets me are the parents that let their toddlers walk up to just any dog in public as if they were at a petting zoo.


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## sebrench (Dec 2, 2014)

Have you ever enrolled her in a local obedience class with a qualified instructor?--she'd have lots of exposure to other dogs in that kind of setting, and the other dogs would be leashed and at least partly under control. I'd keep working on her recall in varying levels of distraction, and avoid letting her off leash around other dogs for now. Maybe you could go to the field at odd times when other people are less likely to be around. Around here, I don't see many people when I go out early in the morning, for instance. Sorry that happened to you. I hope it's the first and last time.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

The little dog sounded like he was on his own and probably not the first time he has to think fast. Crap happens though and they are animals. They will always keep you humble. I would use a long lead on your dog until you can have more control and solid recall. Leave it is another great thing to teach.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Chip Blasiole said:


> Long line, e- collar and solid platz as a default in emergencies.


I’ve never worked with an e collar before. Any suggestions on forums to read about it and which one to potentially get? 



Jenny720 said:


> The little dog sounded like he was on his own and probably not the first time he has to think fast. Crap happens though and they are animals. They will always keep you humble. I would use a long lead on your dog until you can have more control and solid recall. Leave it is another great thing to teach.


I did not think of it like that! It’s ironic because if he had just acted like a normal dog, my dog would have lost interest and not even went over. I guess he’s just copying his owner ?


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

saintbob said:


> OP just chalk this up as a learning experience and drive on.
> 
> If you want the kind of companion dog that can accompany you in public and stores like TSC, Runnings etc that accept dogs on leashes then well ...it's takes exposure.
> 
> ...


That’s so true. I hate that as well. I truly don’t understand how parents don’t teach their kids how to properly approach dogs. It’s just asking for trouble 



sebrench said:


> Have you ever enrolled her in a local obedience class with a qualified instructor?--she'd have lots of exposure to other dogs in that kind of setting, and the other dogs would be leashed and at least partly under control. I'd keep working on her recall in varying levels of distraction, and avoid letting her off leash around other dogs for now. Maybe you could go to the field at odd times when other people are less likely to be around. Around here, I don't see many people when I go out early in the morning, for instance. Sorry that happened to you. I hope it's the first and last time. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


She’s graduated from several classes but with a private trainer. So that’s a great idea! I’ll just use a public class for distraction training. So disappointing because her recall has been 100% for ages and I feel like I have to start over.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

It is important for you to see when your dog is hyper focused on something to call her back to you or a leave it command. Important that owners knows this when there dogs are off leash and don’t listen so many are unaware that is where the true fail is- no one else to blame even if the other owner is a nut and not paying attention. There is a few second window to readjust their hyper focused brain back on to you. If you miss it then off they go not even hearing you or remember you exist for a brief time. Practice makes perfect it’s always good to learn from our own mistakes it’s how we learn!!!!!! I have had some trial and error with a pack of deer so I have learned and made mistakes that were all mine. To me a trained dog is one when they listen through all kinds of distractions in different scenarios that just pop up in life that is where it can get challenging and you learn from.


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## Chip Blasiole (May 3, 2013)

E-collars are easy to use. I have a Dogtra but am probably going to get an Einstein. You can lock in the setting of stimulation with them. Basically, the collar has to be fitted tightly. It is best to get long contact points for a GSD because of their double coat. After putting the collar on make sue the contact points are touching the skin by moving the coat away from the metal contacts and shifting the collar around a little. Start at the lowest setting and increase until you see a slight reaction from your dog. It could be a slight twitch, trying to scratch their neck, etc. If they react strongly or yelp, you have gone beyond the dog's working setting. The idea is that correct behavior turns off the stimulation, (negative reinforcement) not that the dog gets a painful stim from doing something wrong (positive punishment.) You can present the stimulation continuously or at an intermittent rate such as every second or less until the dog performs the correct behavior. I prefer the intermittent rate. Some people say you should let the dog wear the collar for a while each day for several days before using it so they wont get collar smart, but I don't think that is necessary. One thing you can do is put on the e-collar and then add whatever collar the dog will normally be wearing and as soon as you put the other collar around the dog's neck, give them a quick nick/stim and they will tend to think the normal collar is what is providing the stim. Then when the dog isn't wearing the e-collar they will likely still be obedient. I general do some obedience using a prong with the e-collar on, but not using the e-collar and then doing the obedience again keeping both collars on but removing the leash and using the e-collar. The timing of giving the stim and discontinuing it are important, but really not different than a prong collar. You might have to increase the level of stimulation over time if the dog becomes indifferent to it. All dogs are different. Some are very sensitive and some not at all. It is important that the collar is accurate and reliable and I think you can get that with an Einstein. Collars are generally rated by the intensity of the stim they provide, the distance they can function from the dog, and you can get them with one remote for two dogs/collars. They even have GPS and other bells and whistles, but you really don't need to get into that kind of money. You can get all you need for under $200.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

I like the Garmin sport it’s good to have for back up if you decide to go that route. Einstein is another good e collar and so is dogtra. I do advise having an instructor showing you how to use one. Bad timing can confuse the dog and make things worse. Larry Krohn has a book out


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## Chip Blasiole (May 3, 2013)

I should have mentioned I use the e-collar after a laying a foundation based on positive reinforcement and a ton or repetitions and months of training, so the dog knows the behavior and the e-collar is primarily for accuracy, quickness and distractions.


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

I would be more upset at the other owner and their yapper than my dog. And myself... I'd be kicking myself for not having my own dog on a long lead.


Your dogs sounds nice. If Jupiter got excited enough to go running at a prey-like animal, I'm pretty sure a bite would follow.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Jenny720 said:


> It is important for you to see when your dog is hyper focused on something to call her back to you or a leave it command. Important that owners knows this when there dogs are off leash and don’t listen so many are unaware that is where the true fail is- no one else to blame even if the other owner is a nut and not paying attention. There is a few second window to readjust their hyper focused brain back on to you. If you miss it then off they go not even hearing you or remember you exist for a brief time. Practice makes perfect it’s always good to learn from our own mistakes it’s how we learn!!!!!! I have had some trial and error with a pack of deer so I have learned and made mistakes that were all mine. To me a trained dog is one when they listen through all kinds of distractions in different scenarios that just pop up in life that is where it can get challenging and you learn from.


Ugh I saw this exact moment! But when I called her, the dog threw itself on the floor and started screaming so she turned right back around. 



Chip Blasiole said:


> I should have mentioned I use the e-collar after a laying a foundation based on positive reinforcement and a ton or repetitions and months of training, so the dog knows the behavior and the e-collar is primarily for accuracy, quickness and distractions.


I think I need to find a better trainer in my area. I’ve never used an e collar before and I feel too nervous to just start using it. I would need some work and training. But I think I will start to see who I can find in my area.. SO many bad trainers in my area.. it’s a nightmare 



CactusWren said:


> I would be more upset at the other owner and their yapper than my dog. And myself... I'd be kicking myself for not having my own dog on a long lead.
> 
> Your dogs sounds nice. If Jupiter got excited enough to go running at a prey-like animal, I'm pretty sure a bite would follow.


Yeah, I was upset with the owner for sure. I saw the exact second where my dog was about to focus, and called her. She started to come and then the small dog throwing itself on the ground and screaming was too exciting to ignore. Ugh. The small dog was completely fine though. My dog loves to pick up little dogs by their harnesses so she just checked it for a harness and realized there was nothing to grab so just tried to play ?


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Chip Blasiole said:


> E-collars are easy to use. I have a Dogtra but am probably going to get an Einstein. You can lock in the setting of stimulation with them. Basically, the collar has to be fitted tightly. It is best to get long contact points for a GSD because of their double coat. After putting the collar on make sue the contact points are touching the skin by moving the coat away from the metal contacts and shifting the collar around a little. Start at the lowest setting and increase until you see a slight reaction from your dog. It could be a slight twitch, trying to scratch their neck, etc. If they react strongly or yelp, you have gone beyond the dog's working setting. The idea is that correct behavior turns off the stimulation, (negative reinforcement) not that the dog gets a painful stim from doing something wrong (positive punishment.) You can present the stimulation continuously or at an intermittent rate such as every second or less until the dog performs the correct behavior. I prefer the intermittent rate. Some people say you should let the dog wear the collar for a while each day for several days before using it so they wont get collar smart, but I don't think that is necessary. One thing you can do is put on the e-collar and then add whatever collar the dog will normally be wearing and as soon as you put the other collar around the dog's neck, give them a quick nick/stim and they will tend to think the normal collar is what is providing the stim. Then when the dog isn't wearing the e-collar they will likely still be obedient. I general do some obedience using a prong with the e-collar on, but not using the e-collar and then doing the obedience again keeping both collars on but removing the leash and using the e-collar. The timing of giving the stim and discontinuing it are important, but really not different than a prong collar. You might have to increase the level of stimulation over time if the dog becomes indifferent to it. All dogs are different. Some are very sensitive and some not at all. It is important that the collar is accurate and reliable and I think you can get that with an Einstein. Collars are generally rated by the intensity of the stim they provide, the distance they can function from the dog, and you can get them with one remote for two dogs/collars. They even have GPS and other bells and whistles, but you really don't need to get into that kind of money. You can get all you need for under $200.


Thank you so much for your detailed message! I’m definitely going to find a more advanced trainer and get some handling skills with an e collar 



Jenny720 said:


> I like the Garmin sport it’s good to have for back up if you decide to go that route. Einstein is another good e collar and so is dogtra. I do advise having an instructor showing you how to use one. Bad timing can confuse the dog and make things worse. Larry Krohn has a book out


Thank you! Yes I’m going to find someone who we can work with. I think we’ve advanced past our current trainer and they don’t use e collars or have experience.


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## Sunflowers (Feb 17, 2012)

It’s a dog.
No reason to be devastated.
Train some more, go to an empty tennis court or something, somewhere fenced in, and don’t put yourself and her in a place where she can bolt and you can’t get control of her. Long lines are your friend. Use them.

Lesson learned, shrug, and move on.

Oh, and your dog has no business picking up little dogs by their harnesses. This is an absolute no-no. One hard shake and there could be serious damage. She doesn’t need to have any contact with small dogs, or any strange dogs, for that matter.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Sunflowers said:


> It’s a dog.
> No reason to be devastated.
> Train some more, go to an empty tennis court or something, somewhere fenced in, and don’t put yourself and her in a place where she can bolt and you can’t get control of her. Long lines are your friend. Use them.
> 
> ...


I think I only have a 25 foot line. How long should I get? 

I also thought I had trained her out of the harness obsession. But nope. I think she just completely forgot herself. It was just when she was a puppy and my friend who was watching her laughed so it was rewarded. She thankfully just holds them in place but we had worked a lot on that. She had learned to ignore small dogs and cats but forgot everything she’s learned when the dog threw itself on the ground and started screaming. Sigh. Months and months of training and I feel like I’m starting over


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

Maybe I missed it, but how old is she?


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Steve Strom said:


> Maybe I missed it, but how old is she?


She just turned a year as far as we know.


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

25 feet is good. I'd be happy with a 15 footer on the long line.


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## Tennessee (Apr 13, 2017)

germanshepowner said:


> Haha!!! I’ve tested her under pressure before but never that much pressure! I’m unsure I can ever recreate an owner screaming and a dog screaming at the same time! LOL. And Thanks! I needed a laugh today!! Karen, ugh.


Good! Cause your posts were bumming me out. Being way too hard on yourself!


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Tennessee said:


> germanshepowner said:
> 
> 
> > Haha!!! I’ve tested her under pressure before but never that much pressure! I’m unsure I can ever recreate an owner screaming and a dog screaming at the same time! LOL. And Thanks! I needed a laugh today!! Karen, ugh.
> ...


Hahaha thank you so much!!!


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

25' of line is too much to have to handle. 10-12 is plenty. One thing I would say about E, actually 2 things. You'd generally wait till they're a little older and if you use e, like was mentioned you have to go through a process teaching them what electric is, and I'd say use it for everything or don't use it at all. This is basically what I train leave it for. I'd probably just go get my dog in this case. I know they kinda snuck up on you, but my first command would have been leave it. I wouldn't recall her until she clearly responded to the leave it command. 

Personally, I don't ever use e on things like a recall. I only use it as a correction and even though I've seen people speed things up like a recall or retrieves, I can't see myself not having problems with that. When you have things like this, my plan is the more they want to play with you, the less exciting that other dog is. Build a strong desire for the toy, tell her to begin playing, tell her you're done playing and let her just be a dog at that point. Even if you're holding the leash, she's free at that point and aware of you and everything else too. I don't expect them to completely ignore other dogs. I just want them to behave enough so that when I say leave it, they go back to whatever they were doing. What I've found with all of my Shepherds is that the anticipation of playing with you can be so strong that at some point the other dogs just being there can cue them to start looking to you to play. Remember too, a class even if its hectic is still a pretty controlled environment. Everything at the park is going to be more random, so I do tons of formal recalls there. 

I don't try to trade them anything for leave it either. I teach them using a leash pop. Walk them past some things they'll want to see, "Leave It" and an immediate pop. Comply to avoid the pop.


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## Sunflowers (Feb 17, 2012)

I find that 10 feet works well and is easier to manage. 
She’s only a year?
Still a puppy!
The clearheaded GSD will come at 2 years plus, provided you have put in a ton of work. And even then, it’s a dog. I never trust any animal 100%.
Relaxing about this will go a long way toward success. The more the owner frets, the more the dog, too, is stressed. 
And guess what? 
The training never ends with a GSD. This isn’t a dog that you do a few months’ work and you are done.
Do research, learn what you have, and enjoy the process. Train a lot. Love your dog. 




germanshepowner said:


> I think I only have a 25 foot line. How long should I get?
> 
> I also thought I had trained her out of the harness obsession. But nope. I think she just completely forgot herself. It was just when she was a puppy and my friend who was watching her laughed so it was rewarded. She thankfully just holds them in place but we had worked a lot on that. She had learned to ignore small dogs and cats but forgot everything she’s learned when the dog threw itself on the ground and started screaming. Sigh. Months and months of training and I feel like I’m starting over


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Steve Strom said:


> 25' of line is too much to have to handle. 10-12 is plenty. One thing I would say about E, actually 2 things. You'd generally wait till they're a little older and if you use e, like was mentioned you have to go through a process teaching them what electric is, and I'd say use it for everything or don't use it at all. This is basically what I train leave it for. I'd probably just go get my dog in this case. I know they kinda snuck up on you, but my first command would have been leave it. I wouldn't recall her until she clearly responded to the leave it command.
> 
> Personally, I don't ever use e on things like a recall. I only use it as a correction and even though I've seen people speed things up like a recall or retrieves, I can't see myself not having problems with that. When you have things like this, my plan is the more they want to play with you, the less exciting that other dog is. Build a strong desire for the toy, tell her to begin playing, tell her you're done playing and let her just be a dog at that point. Even if you're holding the leash, she's free at that point and aware of you and everything else too. I don't expect them to completely ignore other dogs. I just want them to behave enough so that when I say leave it, they go back to whatever they were doing. What I've found with all of my Shepherds is that the anticipation of playing with you can be so strong that at some point the other dogs just being there can cue them to start looking to you to play. Remember too, a class even if its hectic is still a pretty controlled environment. Everything at the park is going to be more random, so I do tons of formal recalls there.
> 
> I don't try to trade them anything for leave it either. I teach them using a leash pop. Walk them past some things they'll want to see, "Leave It" and an immediate pop. Comply to avoid the pop.


Thank you for your detailed response! How can I be exciting enough when I play? I always have a few toys on me but I’m definitely not exciting enough. 



Sunflowers said:


> I find that 10 feet works well and is easier to manage.
> She’s only a year?
> Still a puppy!
> The clearheaded GSD will come at 2 years plus, provided you have put in a ton of work. And even then, it’s a dog. I never trust any animal 100%.
> ...


?? hahaha thank you! She is a puppy. I sometimes forget because she’s SO smart. She can learn a new command after 3 repetitions. I’m home with her everyday and I’ve put in a solid foundation so it just felt like a very disappointing day. I need to actively remind myself she’s just young still.


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

> Thank you for your detailed response! How can I be exciting enough when I play? I always have a few toys on me but I’m definitely not exciting enough.


Its pretty safe to say, there's nothing exciting about me, so I create the excitement around the toy and later on because I'm in control of the when and how of it I become part of the excitement. Narrow it down to one favored toy for right now and tease her with it. Look for her best effort trying to get it, and then you let her.


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## Saco (Oct 23, 2018)

It's also easy to build excitement for whatever in many dogs- like the leash for tug if you are in a bind, or a stick you pick up off the ground. A toy driven dog will get all worked up for a little stick, but you do need to build up the drive a bit if it's not already there. Then if you pull out their favorite ball on string, they are like "Jackpot!!". And work even harder next time. I have one that love playing two-ball with pinecones. It's how I started teaching her the out. So, yes, use toys to help build that drive.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Steve Strom said:


> > Thank you for your detailed response! How can I be exciting enough when I play? I always have a few toys on me but I’m definitely not exciting enough.
> 
> 
> Its pretty safe to say, there's nothing exciting about me, so I create the excitement around the toy and later on because I'm in control of the when and how of it I become part of the excitement. Narrow it down to one favored toy for right now and tease her with it. Look for her best effort trying to get it, and then you let her.


Hahahah I’m sure there are exciting things about you!!! This is a dumb question but basically just like tug a war with the dog right? I just tried what you said at the park (on lead!) and she was definitely REALLY excited. We usually play fetch or frisbee and maybe tug/tease once a day but super briefly. She loved it. She was super tired after too 



Saco said:


> It's also easy to build excitement for whatever in many dogs- like the leash for tug if you are in a bind, or a stick you pick up off the ground. A toy driven dog will get all worked up for a little stick, but you do need to build up the drive a bit if it's not already there. Then if you pull out their favorite ball on string, they are like "Jackpot!!". And work even harder next time. I have one that love playing two-ball with pinecones. It's how I started teaching her the out. So, yes, use toys to help build that drive.


 ok that’ll work! She will get very driven just for a stick honestly. Or a pine cone too! Lol. 

Are there any videos out there on how I can better do this? I’m boring!


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

Another quick question, are there any schedules out there for training regimes? I do a bunch of small training sessions every day but I think I need to make the sessions longer and more complex.


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

Short and productive, a few times a day is perfect. If her desire for the toy is strong, the next step is called capping. This video is the main thing I like to do. You don't have to do everything in the video, but its the sequence of chase, control (The sit), release to get it that matters.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

OMG! You guys are all GENIUSES! I took my dog out twice today already to just focus on engagement training like you all suggested and she was SO happy. Way happier than fetch or frisbee or a walk. Several small dogs walked by us (went to a busier area to work on ignoring them) and she didn’t ONCE try to get into a herding position! She glanced over and then continued playing with me!!!

She is super affectionate but never in public. And today, she came over to me after playing and wanted to lick my face. She’s NEVER done that in public before.


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## germanshepowner (Oct 26, 2018)

A very happy update. After the last few weeks of being on lead and continuing our many training sessions, we took her to a huge beach and let her off leash. It was a one time thing because it was out of town and a dog beach. Her recall was immaculate and every command was 100%. 

She'll STILL be on lead 99.9% of the time as far as I'm concerned for a long long time. I don't want her to ever be rewarded by chasing a small dog again. But it made me super happy! All of the helpful tips here were amazing and especially the different way of playing with her. Where I live, she was already the best behaved dog around and people were shocked when I said she was a year, and all the tips in this thread helped me take it to a next level! I can tell she's happier as well. So, thank you all!!!

I still need to work on being more interesting though... :help: And I've been unable to find a good trainer around here so far to work with the e-collar :/ So that's on my list as well.


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

Congratulations and thanks for the up date. It's great to hear good news. Keep having fun - both you and the dog.


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