# Socializing an adult dog??



## GSDTrain (Apr 21, 2008)

How would you go about socializing an adult dog that is 'not good' with strangers and other dogs? Is it even possible? What I mean by 'not good' is barking, and growling. I was just curious. Any info. you could give me would be great.

Thanks!


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## BowWowMeow (May 7, 2007)

Basu was like this with people, but not with other dogs. You want to go about it very slowly, using counter conditioning and positive reinforcement. You start by figuring out the dog's comfort level (how far away can they be without growling/barking) and begin counter conditioning at that distance. Then you gradually get closer, being careful never to go out of the comfort zone. It can be a very slow process and requires a tremendous amount of patience on the part of the human. 

There is also a shy dogs group on yahoo that is a wonderful resource. 

Here are a couple of great books:

http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB878
http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB850


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## GSDTrain (Apr 21, 2008)

Also, what "tool" should you use-GL, prong collar,regular flat buckle collar, harness, etc.......??


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## DianaM (Jan 5, 2006)

The best thing I've found was training classes. The environment is controlled, we're given the proper tools to teach, and we also work on control- and focus-promoting behaviors. My dog didn't think much of strange people and reacted a lot to other dogs, now he can be a foot or two away from other dogs and is now accepting petting by strangers in exchange for treats. He'll still call another dog's challenge but that too is getting much better. Of course, since dogs don't generalize we still have to work at home, something that is very difficult because the other owners often don't control their lunging dogs but thanks to classes I'm well armed to tackle those problems a lot better than when I tried to go it alone. 

Ruth has very good advice. If you pressure the dog beyond its capability to cope, you risk a big setback. You want to find the "just right" working zone, where your dog feels a little pressure but still is able to focus on you and listen to you and take treats. Not taking food is a good sign that your dog's over the threshold, that is, IF your dog is food-motivated to begin with. It works the same with toys. If your dog's ball crazy but you find it won't pay attention when you wave the ball in front of its face, you're over the threshold, back off. Also, don't just stop moving and expect your dog to deal, keep moving. Move laterally, move away, whatever your dog needs but just keep moving to help the mind stop fixation.


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## DianaM (Jan 5, 2006)

A Gentle Leader can be a very good tool. I use a prong but may move to a GL soon. I don't think a buckle or a harness gives enough control unless it's a front-clip harness. Of course, use the minimum corrections required to get your dog to take notice. For some dogs, a buckle collar and a stern voice is plenty. For other dogs, a rip-roaring jerk with a prong is what they'll need in some situations to go "oh, okay Mom, I gotcha." You really have to know your dog's working level of correction on different situations and also be well armed with motivators and rewarders that far outweigh the correction. If your dog likes hot dogs, loves liver, but will sell all your possessions to buy itself all the cheese it can eat, you'll buy the cheeses your dog LOVES and give them to your dog only when you're working it around other people and other dogs to make the paycheck all the more rewarding.


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## GSDTrain (Apr 21, 2008)

thanks for the great info!


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## BowWowMeow (May 7, 2007)

I tried every type of collar with Basu and the one that really worked for him was the Sense-ation harness. That also worked great for Kai and Kai could not tolerate the GL. He went nuts with it on, even after I conditioned him to putting it on, etc.


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## GSDTrain (Apr 21, 2008)

thanks


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