# Preparing for Puppies



## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Puppies are due at Christmas! Not GSDs, but still puppies.

Today I worked on the "nursery". Jess and I created a whelping box that I think looks pretty good. I have a thick piece of closed cell foam to put under the box for added insulation. The floor is not a slab either so should not be too cold. The room is not superiorly heated, but I sealed off windows and put a nice space heater in there. It is toasty now! My bed is nearly set up also.

What else do I need?? Is a heat lamp needed? How do you regulate such a thing? I don't want them cold but fried doesn't sound good either. What supplies should I gather?

My vet is not on call for much of the Christmas holiday. UGH!


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## vomlittlehaus (Aug 24, 2010)

If the room is warm enough, you shouldnt need any additional heat. But the heat lamp is usually placed so that the puppies can move under the heat or away from the heat as needed. You should have a thermometer to check mums temp starting a week before her due date, and continue for a week after delivery. This is your first sign of an infection after delivery is a high temp. And you still have time to set up a web cam so we can see it all ( haha, just kidding, but I did for mine). I like to put a temperature gauge right in the whelping box so I know the actual temperature where the pups are. I have one of those indoor/outdoor weather stations, and I put the outdoor unit right in the whelping box.


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## vomlittlehaus (Aug 24, 2010)

Lots of old towels, clamp or floss for umbilical cords that dont stop bleeding. I also have a bulb syringe on hand in case a pup gets fluid in the lungs, and I just usually clean the mouth out anyway.


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## lhczth (Apr 5, 2000)

I have special thick fleece that goes on the floor of my whelping box. Often I'll put a dark towel in one corner and a "heat lamp" in that corner with a 100-150 watt bulb. I want the pups to have the option to get warm, but not bake mom to death. I usually have that corner in the upper 80's for a week (though my last litter was whiny if the box every got about 70) and then slowly lower the temp. Eventually I will move to a 75 watt bulb and then I remove the lamp all together. I watch the puppies. Cold puppies won't eat well and may die. Hot puppies can become dehydrated. Let them determine what is the right temperature by how they act. 

I have these really nice paper self sticking collars to identify the pups, LOTS AND LOTS of towels, hemostats incase an umbilical cord bleeds too much, thermometer, rubber gloves, hmmmmmm did I say LOTS AND LOTS of towels?  Something to use to record birth weight, time, information on each pup. A good scale is handy to keep track of puppy weight gains (or losses).


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## lhczth (Apr 5, 2000)

This is the fleece I use. 

Ultimate Vet Fleece


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## holland (Jan 11, 2009)

What breed are they?


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

The thing about space heaters is that they make the entire area warm, but they can kick off and on and create drafts. That is why a heat lamp in one corner of the box can be preferred.

No, you do not want to roast them. They say that a lot more puppies would survive if people cut the cords on heating pads. This is why I keep the light in just one part of the box. One of the only senses puppies are born with is being able to feel warm or cold and move to where it is warmer or cooler. Drafts can cause issues, so unless we are freezing at home, I generally do not use a space heater.

I do have a thermometer to measure environmental temperature as well as a regular human digital thermometer to monitor the changes in the bitch's temperature.

I generally go to walmart and buy their cheap wash rags, bundles of 7 or 10 for 2 bucks. Something like that, wash them, and use one or more on each pup when they are born. 

I keep the following on hand: 

a small sharp set of scissors 

a cheap kitchen scale to weigh pups twice daily

an aspiration bulb 

Paper towels -- buy the big package

Newspapers

Garbage bags to go with the newspapers

Imitation lambswool whelping box liner (I use them after the girl stops bleeding)

notebook and writing implement

good whelping book or three to refer to

alchohol

dental floss (to tie off the umbilical cord if necessary)

rick rack of different colors if you want to mark puppies with rick rack -- much better than yarn, and little collars are too big at first.

digital thermometer

environment thermometer

chair next to the box, 

sterile disposable gloves would have come in handy this past time.

a small pet bed or box with towels in it to put puppies into while she is whelping another or while you are cleaning the box.

High quality canned food, meat, yogurt, cottage cheese, vanilla ice cream, carnation canned evaporated milk, hard boiled eggs, 

The big sam's club container of chlorox wipes. (they do not have bleach in them, but they do make cleaning easier.)

I keep the necessities of tube feeding on hand as well as dry formula. 

I am sure I am forgetting other stuff.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

They are Shelties. The pups are rolling and kicking about now. Easy to feel and we can auscultate heart beats. 

I am exhausted gathering supplies! I ordered a lamp bulb for warming in case it is needed. Have a couple of indoor thermometers for room and box. The digital infrared says it will measure surface temps. 

That fleece Lisa mentioned looks really nice. I have a ton of hospital pads so may just go with those for now.

Boiling scissors and hemostats today. 

The spare room had to be reclaimed. A bed for me moved in also. And the cleaning done. Pups working me to death and they aren't even born!

Wondering about xray for puppy count soon?


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

If you have not done this before, you might want to go with the tried and true newspaper before, during, and after the whelping process. The hospital pads might not be good if she tears them up. Not sure what they are like. But the bitch will need to rip and tear at her bedding. They have been using newspaper for this for many decades, and it soaks up fluids, gives the bitch something to tear, and insulates -- it is in my opinion the best use for newspaper.


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## DanielleOttoMom (May 11, 2010)

Awww how exciting!!! I grew up with two Shelties!!! I had a male Bailey and female Molly Brown they where both sable. I hope you post pics ASAP.  I will keep momma and babies in my prayers. Selzer seemed to cover every thing.... I haven't delivered puppies. But good luck and I can't wait to see the puppies.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

I got a box of packing paper and got ready for the paper changing situation.

Then, off to vet for xrays. Two GIANT pups in there! Heads up under ribs and butts in her pelvis. Looks like scheduled section. Really, no, Hogan did not breed her.... but that was the first question directed my way! Wow.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Samba said:


> I got a box of packing paper and got ready for the paper changing situation.
> 
> Then, off to vet for xrays. Two GIANT pups in there! Heads up under ribs and butts in her pelvis. Looks like scheduled section. Really, no, Hogan did not breed her.... but that was the first question directed my way! Wow.


Do you mean they are scheduling a c-section. Sometimes this is needed for small litters, as pups tend to be very large. Babs had three, 1 was 1 pound 1 ounce, the other two were 1 pound 6 ounces and 1 pound 5.6 ounces. She had them naturally, but it was the most difficult labor I have yet managed. 

So, if there are only two puppies in there, I would be prepared for the possibility of needing a c-section. This can have its own set of issues. 

For one thing, some bitches do not take to the pups right away. You cannot leave a bitch alone for even minutes with c-section pups for at least 24 hours, maybe more. With Odessa, the milk came down, but it did not sustain them. I am not sure why. But keeping on hand the means to tube feed, and Winifred Strickland's book The German Shepherd Today discusses the process with photos, well that's a good idea. Be prepared, and hope you do not need to. Also you may have to assist more in keeping them warm. Hard to say on that. But you cannot tube feed them if they are not up above 96, 97 degrees, so that little digital thermometer is a must. 

A warm puppy will be active. A cold pup will not try to suck, and be pretty inactive. If they eat when they are cold, the digestive tract shuts down below 96 degrees (I think) and the pup will die. So tube feeding a cold pup can kill it. My vet showed me how to do it, starting with a little water to ensure I got it in the stomach, etc, and tube feeding is a LOT easier than bottle feeding. But you have to pay attention. I HOPE you will not need to do this. I hope you do not need a c-section, but it is more complicated, and knowing what it takes gives you more information.

Good luck.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Yes, a scheduled section. I don't know if she will make it a week. That is one stretched uterus, I bet. Now, I am watching her closely. 

I hope she does not have a lot of trouble with the section if it is what we do. Waking up sore to pups is not a normal course for Mother Nature. 

She is resting a lot and doing some scratching in her bedding more tonight. Need to get to a viable gestation age though!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Oh no! Water broke this morning. At best, puppies are at 58 days. Being this early, vet concerned about viability and does not want to jump on c section. So we wait and this is nerve wracking!! No contracting currently....keep cooking puppies!! And then they are big and probably breech. Not liking!!


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Breech is ok, if they are born in the sack, she can pop the whole sack out. 40% of all puppies are born breech. Arwen had a singleton and we opted for a c-section because they said it was huge. It was only 1.25 pounds. It was just stretched way out. Poor thing, the milk never came down, they had her out for a long time, as they spayed her at the same time -- my fault, I figured while she was under... Anyhow the pup did not make it. Maybe if I had let nature run its course... And then the worry is always that we will lose the bitch, and I generally listen to what the vet has to say about it, and generally go with their advice.

Only twice did I have to assist a breech birth. And that is not all that hard.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Hoping to get more time with pups inside. Vet does not really want to intervene and certainly not on what may be day 58 at the best.

I did a vag exam. The cervix is about nickel size dilated. So there has not been very active labor as that would cause dilation. Sorta just messing around...some resting, some contractions, out to pee, etc. If we could get to tomorrow that might help with viability. A c sec would be less scarey if needed then also.

Breeding...phoooey mess! Good on the people willing to do this regularly.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Phooey mess is right! 

After the water breaks, labor usually starts within an hour or two. Usually. When it's your bitch there ain't no usually about it. What I wonder is what her progesterone is doing. Sometimes progesterone therapy can make labor hold off. 

Now, you say 58 days at most. Is that from ovulation or from when they were bred? This is important, as it is 63 days from ovulation, not conception. So if she ovulated, then you bred her a few days later and it took, these pups can be full term. 

Have you taken her temperature? What is it? 

Usually we take that twice a day around the same times each day. The temp will drop, but then it will go up again before the pups are born. So you don't want to miss the drop. Usually that last week temps can be screwy, 102/101.8, 101.7/101.8, 100.8/101.1, 99.9/100.6, 98.8/99.0 -- now you are getting close. 

I guess, stay close, take temperature, watch for signs of hard labor, don't let her be in hard labor for more than a couple of hours without a puppy. 

I am biting my fingernails for you, and wishing you the best. I hope she has them naturally for you. I think that is easier overall for the dam.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

I don't know when she ovulated. Breeding was Oct 20 22 & 24.

Temp 100.7 as has been for last couple of days. 

Not much going on here. A few contractions but resting.

I guess, if she ovulated prior to the 20th then we could have "older" pups.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

If I were you, I would continue to take the temperature twice a day, and monitor her. It sounds like she is getting closer. Are you sure it was her water and not just urinating? I am not sure how it works, but normally, there is an amount of watery liquid, and within a couple of hours, a pup is born in a sack with a lot of water. Sometimes there is no sack, or the puppy comes out first, or she eats it while it (the sack) is coming out. After the first pup and with each pup, she will usually spew some water as she turns around and around to deliver another. 

Try to pay attention to the placentas. Eating them is natural for her, and there is the thought that it releases oxytocin and helps bring the milk down, and helps to make the womb contract as is necessary. If one is retained that can be extremely dangerous. I haven't had this happen yet. But if you weigh the puppies twice daily, and they are doing good, your bitch is probably doing fine. I generally take her temperature. if it rises over 104, I will go to the vet right away.

Another thing, don't help too much. Generally she will bite the umbilical chord and roughly wash the puppy until it is wriggling and squeaking. If she is bothering with the placenta, you might take a wash rag and start rubbing the puppy all over and clear the air way and get the puppy going. Once it starts squeaking, she will generally drop all interest in other things until the pup is back. If she bites the umbilical cord, it will tear and be jagged and not bleed like crazy, like when you cut it with a sharp scissor -- learned this last litter. Then you MUST tie it off with waxed string or dental floss. I generally let her take care of that, and never have to tie them off. 

Keep them warm, keep all other critters away. A pregnant bitch might kill a cat that she otherwise rubbed up against and loved. And she should not be under any stress anyway. Not sure if you have done this before, so I am trying to cover all the bases. 

Good luck, Keep us posted.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Thanks to all for the help and support!! The two monsters are here after a dose of Oxy! Two males! 10.4 oz and 11.4oz. That is lots o'Sheltie pup!!


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Congratulations, Mom is doing good? She had them naturally? That is great. Did they give her oxy before either pup was born?


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

I could feel a pup in the canal. He didn't move after some contracting. I drove to my vet's house and got oxytocin. Gave her .25 cc's subq. Pup came on down with bigger contractions and I had to help deliver the little piggy! While the first one nursed, the second followed qickly. He was breech but an ounce smaller and came on out.

The dam had a wee bit more bleeding than we expected afterward. Called vet and gave more oxy. He said early deliveries bleed more. 

Pups are nursing well. Mom is good. She ate some cooked hamburger.

Our dam is a bi blue. That means she is a black and white dog with a merling factor. The sire is a tri. This was his first breeding and we did not know if he carried a recessive behind his tri color gene. He did! We got a black and white (bi-black) and a bi- blue like the dam. No tri colors this time but I like these guys colors. Many people prefer the sables though. Sable is dominant in Shelties too.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I am glad they are doing good and everything went well, and they are eating. Post pictures. I am not sure about bi-blue and bi-black (look of a border collie?) I guess I am used to the red and white shelties or the blue merls.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Soo busy, no pics up yet but I will do it. The bi black is colored like a BC. The bi-blue is a black and white with merling of the black.

The red and white you see often is the sable coloring of Shelties.

Dew claws off today. Ewwww!


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## Achielles UD (May 26, 2001)

Mom, Shimmer, a few hours before puppies


Shimmer just after delivery


Reindeer boys:

Bi-Blue boy (Blitzen), 11.4 oz! (will look like mom, blue merle with no tan points)
Bi-Black boy (Dasher), 10.4! (will look like traditional border collie, black &white with no tan points)






& Mom, wondering why we are taking so many pictures!


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## Debbieg (Jun 7, 2009)

Congratulations! Can't wait to see the pics of the new little ones!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Thanks for posting the pics!

I am so busy looking after pups and other dogs.

These pups are fat! I have to feed Shimmer many times a day.

The BioSensor program is underway too with pups.


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## ChristenHolden (Jan 16, 2010)

Oooooooh Shelties!!!!!!!! Me Love Shelties!!!! We lost our old family blue merel (sp?) Rocky not to long ago I sure do miss him :wub:


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

congratulations Samba -- what a busy busy week you've had! by the way I love Shelties, met some keen obedience competition dogs that were Shelties .


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

They are for performance, we hope.

Last I checked, the top obed dog in the US is still the Sheltie, Hobie. He had many many points! Quite the consistent competitor.


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## DanielleOttoMom (May 11, 2010)

Shimmer is just stunning!!! Congratz on the new babies!!! 
Sighhhhhh..... I just LOVE Blitzen!! Awesome names too BTW.


I just love shelties. This was my first dog or dogs.... I had two shelties grown up like I stated in my post earlier on in the thread.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

We like Shimmer also. People often stop to remark about her. 

These pups are eating like fiends! I think we may get to 2 lbs by two weeks old!! Egads, large breed size pups!

Of course, in Shelties, you don't want them to go oversize. I am hoping they are big from small litter size, a well nourished dam and lots of milk. They really don't seem to start measuring them until around 6 weeks for potential adult height, but I have to say the roly poly pups are making me worry a bit!

Eyes are opening!! Cute


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## holland (Jan 11, 2009)

Mom is beautiful looking forward to more pics!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Not a great photo op. Hubby sick with cold and pups wiggly! This is not too flattering of Dasher as he looks like he has been bonked in the head or something!











Blitzen!









So far, I like their heads. Blocky and squared off. Good stops. As you can see, Shimmer has a bit too much fill between the eyes so hope to not get that. Sire's head is nice. They seen to have some nice necks too. I like that they got the gene for a blaze on the head. Looks like they will have big white collars too. Hard to tell about the rest!

You might also note that these guys are two handfuls and now over two pounds. Are these pups headed for oversize?! Well, no problem with their amount of bone or their healthiness anyway. That is good!

Two weeks old tonight.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Oh no! Dasher went flat. Literally flat!

I thought he can't be a "swimmer" as he is so robust.

After some research, we found this can happen due to the life of luxury! Warm flat whelping box and an indulgent dam. The over consumption of milk and the ability to laze about! 

Busy now making like a bit "tougher" and making him nurse while on his side.


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## paulag1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

What do you mean by flat and what is a swimmer?

I LOVE bi-blue shelties! Shimmer is beautiful and the pups are adorable.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

a swimmer puppy is one that persists on resting on its stomach. Puppy bones are soft and the constant belly position can cause the thorax to begin to flatten. It can be fatal if left untreated.

So, I have spent the night mostly awake making sure the pup rests on his side. I make him nurse on his side. The persistent righting reflex is very evident in him. He fights like crazy not to rest on his side while his littermate usually chooses that position.

I sewed some bolsters filled with rice and filled some socks with rice to assist in keeping him in position. It is an initial tussle with him to get him to sleep on side though. What a strong bugger! It is a battle at nursing time too. I am limiting Shimmer's time with them now, too. 

Happy to say that Dasher took some really good steps today. That is encouraging. I am tired and on constant watch over his belly flopping little butt!

Link to article on swimmer pups:

http://www.showdogsupersite.com/kenlclub/breedvet/swimmers.html

I had heard about swimmers but really did not realize the part about pups that persist on bellly lying. I have been reading about cases. It is often in a big fat pup. Bulldogs pups have it happen. I can see that from a body structure standpoint, they would be prone to it.

I am imagining that there can be abnormalities that can also cause a pup to lie too long, but I do believe that it happens from persistent righting reflex, fatness and long resting periods also. I can not believe the wrestling this pup will do to get to his belly!


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## krystyne73 (Oct 13, 2010)

wow congrats! I am exhausted just reading the thread lol breeding is definitely left best to professionals!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

The early detection and intervention with Dasher appears to be working. We took the pups to the vet today and he felt his chest was now very similar to the other pup and normal in conformation. Vet felt it was the result of an easy life and over milk consumption. I noted this pup was different from the other in that he was persistent in righting himself and did not naturally rest on his side. Everything else checked out fine. No heart murmurs or hernias detected.

I have not had much sleep! I worked with the pup to rest on his side whenever asleep and also while nursing. I spent time holding him on his side with hands around his chest. The soft bones quickly molded back to a better conformation. 

I will from now on know to check pups chests daily and to watch for those who tend to stay on the abdomen. Early detection and intervention could save a lot of puppies I am sure. I read of many where people did not act for weeks and then the deformity was much harder to correct. Reminded of working in the newborn nursery where we had to keep the babies turned so heads did not go flat on one side. 

We held the pups in a pan of warm water, supported their heads and had them do swimming today. This really exercised their legs. After they got out they were invigorated and took many steps up on all fours. We let them find Shimmer and then place them at the other end of the whelping box with toys and bolsters to crawl over in order to motivate the fatties to get going! Me---personal trainer to the pups!


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## Lauri & The Gang (Jun 28, 2001)

Rolled up towels placed around the whelping box will help, too. The pups will have to go 'log climbing'.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

I have placed long low toys and my rice filled little bolsters about in the box. Some areas have blocks of egg crate and some don't so they have some "terrain" to traverse. They are climbing over them. It seems to be helping. They are doing their workouts!

Honestly pups? 2.2 lbs!?! Serious obesity epidemic up in here!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Blitzen










Dash


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## GSDBESTK9 (Mar 26, 2002)

They are so cute!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Thanks! We need more pictures as they change every day.

We got past the swimmer puppy scare and Dasher's chest is normal now. Wish I had known more about the development of the syndrome in order to check for it every day! Early intervention can save trouble and even the life of the pup!


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## Lesley1905 (Aug 25, 2010)

Adorable!!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

They grow fast! At just a couple of days over three weeks, they were licking mum's empty bowl. I started feeding with watered down starter canned food. It was a hit! Little bitty teeth are in! Mum is still nursing them, esp at night. I don't want to rush weaning, but Shim is doing a good job in lessening her trips into the box.

Getting cute growling, barking and trying to play though walking not all coordinated. They played with tiny ball cat toys. Those looked cute in baby puppy mouths! Yesterday they walked over crinkly foil on the the floor. I found some bubble wrap to use also. Found a fun cat tunnel that has crinkly filling.They will be running through that for food soon!

Today we plan to expand their area so they can begin to learn to potty in a place. Need to get some wood chips for the potty area, I guess.


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

3 weeks old, still wobbling about some but playing is so cute!


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## Samba (Apr 23, 2001)

Blitzen with starfish...









and Dasher


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