# I need help with my male gsd!! Randomly very aggressive, very dangerous!! Help!!!



## MVPxD (Sep 5, 2011)

Hello,

I have a 14 and 1/2 month old German Shepherd named Rommel. For the most part he's been a very good dog. Everyone in the house loves him and he gets along with everyone here just fine. He's a bit of a nuisance around the house at the times, such as taking sandals and socks and running around, but he's still a puppy I believe that's normal. What seems to be the problem is when people come over the house or when he is outside. When he is outside of the house for a walk, he seems impervious to other dogs that pass by not even noticing them even when they are barking at him. What I do notice is that the dogs along his spine raise up, but I pull him on to keep walking. I admit, other then the walks around the town and the dogs he sees on those walks he hasn't had much other socialization with other dogs. When he sees people riding bikes quickly past him, he lunges at them and starts barking ferociously. I don't know if its fear or what but it is very dangerous. He's only 14 months old but he is very strong and when he puts energy into it he can drag me a long way. I don't want it to happen when one day he'll get the better of me and go after someone in the streets and get hurt. At home he is about 50% of the time in his crate and when someone outside of our family comes to the house and he is in the crate, he goes nuts. He seems like such a wild and crazy dog even I get scared at times when I see him like that. When he is not in the crate and someone comes in, he rushes to them but as soon as he smells them a bit he chills out. However, a 70lb German shepherd rushing at you can be quite scary for many people. Is there anyway I can avoid this from my pup? How can I train my dog to just be quite? When people arrive at home and he starts barking is there anything I can do to just make him stop, to relax, to stay put...The last thing I want is my visitors thinking I have a monster in my home. What I am most concerned about is the aggressive behavior he portrays at times. I need to have that stopped. Please help me. I love my Rommel to death and I don't want anything to ever happen where I'll have to get rid of him. 

Please feel free to make any comments and provide me with any help to my problems.

Your opinion and help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you,
Falcao

P.S. A picture of him is here as an attachment.


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## onyx'girl (May 18, 2007)

He is reactive, probably out of fear as most aggressive behavior is fear based. There are (unfortunately) too many threads with your question and it usually begins at the same age as Rommel. You can go to the top of the page and click the search bar, or look in this forum for tons of threads on Rommels issues/very common.
The LAT game is good to teach him how to look at what he's reacting to and see it is no big deal. 
I'd also watch his body language and redirect him BEFORE he has the chance to lunge/bark. Keep things positive and don't correct the behavior as he may see the correction as coming from WHAT he is reacting to. 
If you aren't in any training classes I'd start going now(but let the trainer know you are dealing with this) or continue on, don't isolate him. 
Check if your area offers a class based on the book Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt There are also exercises in the book to teach go to your place, clicker training and confidence building. I would get a copy to help you get thru this stage.
Also if you are using a prong collar, that can also ramp up a reactive dog, so keep that in mind(I'm all for prongs, but certain dogs are excited by the corrections from the collar) What you feel goes right down the leash to your dog, so anxiety on your end will feed your dog.


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## Lakl (Jul 23, 2011)

Find a behaviorist/trainer asap! Also research "NILF". I have not dealt with this particularly, but I'm sure there will be others along shortly that can give you some better more specific advice. I wish you the best of luck in getting this under control!


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

What did your trainer recommend? Is he much better in dog classes?

If your current trainer isn't helping, then I'd go somewhere else. Some of this may just be over excitement and 'rude' behavior that some good TEACHING would fix.


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## PaddyD (Jul 22, 2010)

Just curious why he spends so much time in his crate at that age? My dog has been out of her crate since she was a young pup. I know, different strokes for different folks. But I wonder if the lack of freedom has not prepared him to deal with some situations. Also, how much exercise does he get A young GSD needs a couple hours a day minimum. At 14 months he is still in his bratty period so you have some more patience and perseverance before he starts to calm down. Has he been neutered? .... not that that would make a huge difference. Could you let him be free longer? And introduce him to new people entering the house so it wouldn't be such a big deal to him. You might find that he is different outside the crate than in.


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## MVPxD (Sep 5, 2011)

@PaddyD

- We recently moved to a new home and there's some things that are being fixed. My mother also got some new furniture and she is afraid if we take our eye of Rommel for a second he'll ruin it as he previously did at our old home, so she says to avoid it if we can't be with him he'll be in the cage. As you can understand we can't always be with him. Since we did just move in and there' things being done he is no getting the best amount of exercise. But he is walked daily and played with in the yard with balls and whatnot for a while about 3-4 times a week. I know this must increase. He is not neutered. Also, I have suggested what you said, to have him free around the house when others are coming over so that he can smell them and just relax, but my dad says that you never know, out of nowhere he can lunge at someone and hurt them bad. You said he is still in his bratty period, you're saying with time this will change?

@MaggieRoseLee @Lakl @onyx'girl

- He is not with a trainer right now. He was trained previously but only for basic commands. Anything I should look for in a trainer in specific?


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## Lakl (Jul 23, 2011)

A behaviorist would be the best route simply because they can access your dog's behavior and tell you where to go from there, and help you understand why he is doing the things he does. You might also want to look for a reactive dog class or a trainer that specializes in behavior problems. A lot of trainers that do just obedience are not equipped to handle reactive or aggressive dogs. It seems that you've lost some valuable time with socialization and training and it's going to take some dedication and a lot of work, but if you are consistent, you CAN manage this. Best of luck and keep us posted!


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## PaddyD (Jul 22, 2010)

Lakl said:


> A behaviorist would be the best route simply because they can access your dog's behavior and tell you where to go from there, and help you understand why he is doing the things he does. You might also want to look for a reactive dog class or a trainer that specializes in behavior problems. A lot of trainers that do just obedience are not equipped to handle reactive or aggressive dogs. It seems that you've lost some valuable time with socialization and training and it's going to take some dedication and a lot of work, but if you are consistent, you CAN manage this. Best of luck and keep us posted!


Hope you are able to follow this advice.
You need to take every opportunity to socialize AND exercise your dog.
It should be 3-4 times a day rather than per week.
The bratty period will end but what kind of dog you have is up to his
genetic temperament and what you have done to make him a good
canine citizen. Nature plus nurture.
Just because he raises his hackles (along his spine) doesn't mean he is going to attack. It can also be a nervous reaction
and they will go down when he calms down. The lunging at bicycles could also be fear but the more exposure to people
and varied circumstance should improve his behavior. Also, barking in his crate does not necessarily mean he is
going to attack anyone. Proceed with caution but my dog barks ferociously when people come to the house or if
they come and she is in her crate. Once she is free she is all wags and licks. Not saying your dog is the same
but it is something to consider.


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## MaggieRoseLee (Aug 17, 2001)

Way up the exercise, make it a priority.

Find a good trainer used to big exhuberant (sp?) overwhelming dogs.

I'd neuter him.

Exercise Exercise Exercise

Train train train! He needs to LEARN to do the 'right' thing. If left to their own our pups will otherwise 'guess' what to do and they tend to guess WRONG!

You ever try any clicker training and TRICK training???? MENTAL 'exercise' is great. And a big dog that has cute 'tricks' is much less intimidating and liable to be able to get out of the crate!

click this (not just for puppies) --> http://www.germanshepherds.com/foru...0-intro-clicker-training-perfect-puppies.html

Read this --> Teaching a trick is the least important part of teaching a trick

Work on this --> http://www.germanshepherds.com/foru...ime-owner/162230-engagement-key-training.html

GOOD LUCK!


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

you love your Rommel to death, so lets make the love affair a long one , have him live a long and problem free life.
14 months is not a baby. A human , absolutely. A dog , not. Not totally mature , but high time for some parameters for behaviour . Expectations. Lines to cross.
At this age he should not be a nuissance or run around the house with shoes and socks or display distructive behaviour , go crazy and wild , or rush up to people at the front door . One day ! 
His inner core won't change , he will be reactive and fearfull. The hackling is involuntary - but it says volumes about what he is experiencing, fear.
Get better management .
Start with exercise on lead only which combines control as part of the outing. Jog , walk briskly. The dog must be at heel , not pulling you like some champion sled dog . He is WITH you , meaning the dog yields to you, not the other way around. Change directions, go slow , go fast, have him sit . Keep throwing things at him to make him think , keep his attention because he won't know what you are going to ask him . Get him to offer behaviour to you .
You have your hands full. He does sound like an out of control , dog with fear aggression -- with lack of leadership which would calm him a bit . Dogs love harmony and structure .

Find a good trainer . ASAP. (keep him away from the front door , he does not need to be part of a greeting party) 

Carmen
Carmspack Working German Shepherd Dogs


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## jennyp (Jun 18, 2011)

Your getting some really great advice here. I'd just add that from what you wrote it seems like you and members of your family might be feeling a bit nervous in situations where you're anticipating a negative reaction from him. He probably picks up on that. If he senses that you're nervous, it could exacerbate the situation and make him even more prone to act out. In these situations, I'd make sure to take a deep breath and try as best you can to relax. Your dog has to trust you as a leader.


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

so he ate the furniture at the old house. You have your mom to worry about . Is there any way you can get your dad or someone handy to build a containment area in the yard , or buy a sturdy kennel-in-a-kit . This would be constructive confinement for those times that you can't attend to his needs, and give him more freedom of movement than being in a crate for extended periods of time. 3-4 times a week of ball play really is not enough.
Get out on those long walks and do the obedience exercises as you go. 
Carmen


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## billsharp (May 3, 2011)

It sounds like you haven't spent enough time training him (not being judgmental, just seems to be a fact from your statements). I am amazed at what GOOD advice you have been given in these posts--please follow it! Don't just think "oh, he's in a bratty period" and that it will magically resolve itself. It won't--it will only get worse. 

You MUST start NOW disciplining him and training him several times a day--this should be your new hobby and biggest time sump other than your job and family. You must get a professional involved so you learn how to clearly communicate with your dog. 

The upside is you will be rewarded with a great companion once he understands what you expect of him!!


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## billsharp (May 3, 2011)

BTW, love the pic, very handsome dog!!


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## martemchik (Nov 23, 2010)

This does stem from the fact that he wasn't socialized when he was younger. You are probably going to have a hard time socializing him now and finding another dog owner that would allow your dog to meet his while he is barking and looking "aggressive." Sadly a big barking GSD doesn't look like the friendliest dog around. You really have to start socializing him with people that come into your home. Let them give him treats when he is calm and make it all a positive experience for him.

The bike thing is definately a fear thing as my pup did this around 6 months old. I was finally able to find a bike and let him sniff it/figure out what it is. Then have him sniff some riders (they were stopped at a light and had no idea there was a dog sniffing them). Once he did that he didn't care anymore, a bike is just a bike. You have to lead him into these situtation very confidently and not nervously, the more freaked out you are the more he will be. When you see a bike and get nervous about his reaction, he senses you are nervous but thinks its because of the bike, not his reaction (he hasn't reacted yet), so he reacts to the bike/your energy. It all makes sense when you think of it that way.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I think you are going to have to set your alarm an hour early and get out there with him, tire his little but out. Start with chasing the ball, hard running on his part -- maybe half an hour. Then hook the leash on and walk briskly or jog with him at least fifteen minutes. Finish off with a good training session that uses a lot of praise and a lot of different stuff. Mix it up a lot. 

When you hear a bicycle coming, you need to be hyper vigilent. Put your dog on a SIT STAY and be ready to enforce it. He IS a puppy now. If you cannot control him at 14 months old, than it will not get any easier when he is full grown. Wheels are something that for some dogs is an issue. Part of it is the motion of the wheel, part of it is the running motion of the cyclist, part of it is the startle response -- bicycles are quiet and fast. Actually one think you might consider doing with him is riding a bike while he runs along side. 

Remember that a tired puppy is a lot easier to manage and a lot better around the house. 

This dog is by your own description, undersocialized and unexercised. That has to change. 

I am usually a fan of an outdoor kennel or a secure enclosure inside a basement or garage when you cannot be there to supervise. The problem with this is it becomes easier to leave Barfy in his kennel more and more. Eating shoes and furniture is bad for you and bad for the dog. But he is doing it because he has not been TRAINED not to. He is bored out of his mind and chewing works his teeth and is satisfying So, leaving this dog loose with the new furniture is likely to have the same result. 

The way to train him what not to chew is to have his chew objects around and the moment he sets tooth in the wrong type of object, redirect to his proper chew item and praise him for chewing on it. That takes time. And it may be a long time before you start feeling confident about leaving him loose unsupervised even for short periods. 

If you do make an enclosure/kennel for him. Make sure the base is concrete. Digging is also a self-gratifying behavior like chewing, and this is NOT a dog you want to have escaping. That is also great fun. 

He should be eating morning and evening at this point, the morning meal should if possible be at least 1/2 hour after his morning work out. After he eats, crate or kennel will be necessary while you are at work, as he is not trustworthy. This is hard, but someone should take the dog out and give him a good 15 minute power walk at noon time, and maybe another fifteen minutes of relaxing before he is crated for the rest of the work day. 

When you get home, he needs to go out immediately and have another session like the morning session, all out running/chasing, then a good walk where he is likely to encounter (from a distance) some of those things that he is uncertain about, and a varied training session. One evening a week it would be extremely helpful for him to be in classes with other dogs. 

No more crating him for the rest of the day. Use baby gates to keep him in the same room with you. He should be in the kitchen while you fix dinner. He should be in the room with you while you eat dinner -- practice a down stay. He should be in the room with you when you watch TV or work on your computer. You need to keep your mind conscious of what he is doing at all times.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Teach him not to rush into strangers. Have him SIT and STAY. After the person is in the house for a while, release the dog or call the dog to you and pet him, and allow sniffing to take place. If you punish the symptoms that the dog is uneasy, barking, growling, hair going up, then you can have a dog that does not bark or growl, but is just as nervous/uneasy and that dog is far more likely to bite someone without  warning -- that dog is dangerous. Ask your visitors to ignore the dog. Never let a visitor chase him down to pet him. Even if he rushes forward when you release him, ask the visitor to ignore him. At some point, you might want to ask visitors to offer him treats. 

Throughout the evening, you should engage him in some type of play, or short training sessions. Train during commercials. Whenever you dog is scared or uncertain, giving him a command that he knows well can make him relax and will build his confidence. 

Think of it this way, the dog sees a threat and has no clue how to respond, "what do I do, what do I do, there is a dog over there, is it going to attack, do I need to protect, what should I do, is there somewhere to go, should I try to make it go away, what do I do???" Your SIT, breaks through that jumble, "SIT, oh yeah, that's where the butt goes on the ground, I know how to do that, my Susie knows there is another dog over there she is not concerned, I am sitting, she is praising me, she has it covered, ok, we can do this, what is next?" 

All the training, inside the house, outside the house, the playing, the exercise, the praising proper behavior -- this stuff will build a STRONG bond. Your dog may not have nerves of steel, but he CAN learn to trust you to protect him, trust you to. And you will learn his limits and learn to trust him. 
That bond will help you immensely and the dog. The dog will be far more relaxed because he knows what to expect, and what he needs to do. It is a good place. You will be more relaxed because you will become confident in your dog's abilities. That will make your dog more relaxed.

Another walk in the evening before bed, is probably a good idea, and then baby gate him into your bedroom for the night. Puppy proof it, but he has enough crate time. Make sure he has something appropriate to chew on, and do not provide any expensive shoes or sandles to ruin. If he chews on your slipper at night, then crate him. He is done teething now though, so that behavior should stop. Let him know those are MINE. Stuff that is MINE he is not allowed to touch, even if it is on the floor. 

Do not ever strike the dog. And after the fact do not punish him. If you catch him in the act of chewing on a slipper, a quick EH!, That's MINE. And remove it from him. Then tell him to go get his ball or bone. If he does, then Good, yours. In a nicer tone. If he does not go and get it. Then go for it your self and still in a mildly unhappy tone, tell him YOUR BONE. And give it to him. 

I have a bear that can be wound up and plays Jesus Loves me in little tones. It has been slept with by too many of my dogs. They _know_ it is MINE, and it is almost like they know just how far they can go. So far not one of them has chewed it. They just take it and put it in the bed and sleep with it. Crazy mutts. They can learn to not hurt your things. (BTW, these are dogs that cannot be left with a stuffed toy because their specialty is dissection.)

My dogs are kenneled, mostly outside when I am not home. There is nothing in my home so precious that if they chewed it up, I would be devestated. But, for their safety, there are some things that could cause a blockage, or poison them, so, I find the kennels, a much safer place when I am not there to supervise. Except when I come home, they do not make much noise because they are not alone. If you have a single dog, a kennel in a back yard, might reek havoc with the neighbors. A garage or basement for a good size kennel might make more sense, or might make the neighbors less fussy.


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

Selzer - very good -- when is the book coming out.


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Sorry, got carried away.


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## nitemares (Dec 15, 2005)

Wow good job selzer, definitely will be waiting for the book... or a blog at least??!


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## carmspack (Feb 2, 2011)

selzer , I said book , not because of length but because of excellent content and presentation !!!!!


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## pets4life (Feb 22, 2011)

can u give more stronger exercise like other said? x 2 ? if my dog has a bad day good exercise fixes it walking doesnt do it for her running does ball play if ur dog doesnt play ball just try to figure anything out to make ur dog run

i know if i walk my dog even 2x a day she will still be miserable needs strong run 2 x a day to maintain happyneess and calm temperment i see a strong connection between a dogs temperment and and how much exercise it gets on days my dog did not get enough she is more snappy and tempermental moody while protecting the fence and yard always fixed quick with fast ball play this is my experience tho w my 1 dog. JMHO


swim games of tug?


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