# I hate walking my dog :(



## scotton86 (Aug 31, 2015)

I have a 2.5 year old GSD and as time goes on I am despising taking her on a walk more and more. 

She constantly pulls on the lead, is at excitement level 11 throughout the whole walk, is very aggressive to other dogs on the lead and when off the lead charges off after other dogs with not a second look back at my frantic callings. When she gets to the other dogs she is absolutely fine, no aggression, just a tonne of energy which is sometimes intimidating to other dogs and owners. 

Despite the hatred, we still try and take her for at least 1 or 2 walks a day lasting about an hour, where we throw a tennis ball for her, to try and tire her out. 

I'm completely at my wits end, it feels like I've tried everything. I know it's me that needs training, but I'm all out of ideas. 

Any suggestions?


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## kimrocks (Jul 26, 2015)

Treadmill could be an option.


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## amburger16 (May 22, 2015)

For the aggressive leash behavior, have a trainer evaluate the situation. For pulling, look up Jeff Gellman videos on the prong collar. It works. 

Up the exercise, walking is exercise for lazy dog breeds not GSDs. She needs off leash running, 2 ball fetch is great. Swimming is also great exercise. Mental stimulation as well, lots of training, games like hide and seek, make her think, it will tire her out aswell.


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## counter (Feb 20, 2009)

If you can find a place with minimum distractions, I highly recommend bikejoring. It's what saved us! We used to go on 2-3 hour walks daily. Now we can cover more distance in less time: 5+ mile bike rides in 45 minutes with the dogs doing all of the pulling. I don't pedal at all. It's like sled dogs in the snow, only this is a "sport" for dogs to get similar training and exercise in the off-season. Also look into dog scootering (Diggler dog scooters are the best!), and carting, and dog sledding for snow in the winter. It's not just huskies that are able to pull; any big strong dog with a desire to pull can do any of these urban mushing, dog-powered sports.

I was once in your shoes and started to despise taking those long, many-hour walks, and the 2-3 hours was barely enough to even dent their energy level. Now, one bikejoring ride a day wear them out until tomorrow.


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## Steve Strom (Oct 26, 2013)

> She constantly pulls on the lead, is at excitement level 11 throughout the whole walk


It sounds like you're just building frustration in her trying to restrain her all the time. Concentrate on teaching her to walk on a leash and not pull. Include sits, downs, everything and see how many of the problems go away with that. You have to consistently train it, not just randomly. I'd forget about casual walks for a while and make everything about teaching this at a distance from other dogs that she can maintain it at, then lessen the distance as she can handle it.


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## counter (Feb 20, 2009)

Wanted to add: training and obedience are more important than excessive exercise. I always assume that it's a given, so I don't state it when I mention bikejoring. There is obedience involved with bikejoring, teaching sled dog commands to turn and stop, etc. But mental stimulation is more taxing than physical stimulation. And of course you always should want an obedient dog, whether energy level 11 or 1. The bikejoring was just an added bonus to wear out the dogs and build lots of muscle and endurance for long distance, controlled running. Plus, they love it!


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## MadLab (Jan 7, 2013)

Start walking really slowly, like snail pace, and see what the dog does. I had to use this technique a few years back when my bully saw a cat and we were on an icy footpath. After I experimented with it as the dog did not pull me off my feet.Take one tiny step at a time. You can hold the leash with 2 hands together with your hands at your stomach area. For some reason the dog halts when you do this. I reckoned it is due to the dog having a natural awareness for looking after the weak, like old person or child.

Another abstract theory is to double your foot speed. Look at your dog walking. It usually takes 2 steps for your one step. So you start to take 2 steps too, like 2 fast steps and your feet start to go at the same speed as his. Then you slow down a little and the dog will also slow down. I don't know exactly why these techniques work to slow down a dog but they do.

You can also keep the dog guessing, like turn, slow down, speed up, stop, jog, stamp loudly. Leave house, Go back in the house. Out again etc. It thinks, yeah we're going to the lake' but you end up bringing it round in circles. Basically messing with the dogs head. And breaking the routine. Like a dog who goes crazy when it sees the leash or when you say 'walk' or 'W', you pick up his leash, let him get excited and then put the leash on the floor and go back to what you were doing. Do that for a while. then Leash him up bring to the front door and back and unleash and go about your business. Then out the door and back. Then to 20 meters down the road and back. These techniques are de=motivational and calm down excited dogs. It makes the dog think rather than the dog getting what it wants energy wise. It wants to pull on leash and drag you where it wants to go.

To achieve a calm dog on leash in a more constructive manner, check out the Tyler Muto youtube channel. All his stuff is good especially place command and his leash pressure techniques.


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## Traveler's Mom (Sep 24, 2012)

I can totally relate to your situation. I had similar feelings when my dog was younger. You aren't alone. Amberger16's suggestion of trying a prong (with you getting proper training for using a prong) is a good one. 
I was TOTALLY against using a prong on my dog but I was also at wits end trying to handle him on a walk. The prong worked for us. I was no longer a flag flying at the end of his leash. It is like power steering for a dog.

Aside from learning the proper way to train with a prong, you need to learn how to walk dogs like ours. The most helpful lesson I got was learning to stop in my tracks as soon as he really started pulling, then I say Ooops or something similar( some short and abrupt single word) and turn immediately in the opposite direction and start walking that way. Wash-rinse-repeat. Following this outline for a few weeks it finally clicked with my dog that he was going nowhere if he pulled. I found it helpful that when I made the 180° turn I braced the leash and my arms against my midsection. This prevents your arms from getting ripped off.

As the others have said, tiring out the dog before a walk is also extremely helpful.

Lynn & Traveler


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

scotton86 said:


> Any suggestions?


Yes take a deep breath and relax! We're here to help! 

You need to stop doing what you are doing...every time your dog "walks" like this he gets "better" at being bad! "Outthink your dog!" 

The best place in "my" view would be to start here, the first video clip:
http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/5296377-post8.html

Flat collar and leash, if you get the concept down...it will serve you well! Other "real" tool options cab be found here:

Slip Lead leash - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums 

Most likely it will be an ongoing discussion as the "bad dogs" roll in!

Welcome aboard.


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## Castlemaid (Jun 29, 2006)

When you say you have tried everything, have you tried a prong collar? Feeding her meal on a walk with you giving her each piece of kibble as she walks by your side on a loose leash? Get a treat pouch of baggy pants with big pockets, and fill them with kibble. Have the treats on the side that you walk your dog. Take a handful of treats/kibble and as your dog walks at your side with his muzzle at your hand level (because he is focused on the treats in your hands), feed them one-by one. He moves ahead? Prong correction! Moves back to your side on a loose leash on his own - treats!

Make this your regular feeding/walking schedule for a long time, as it will take time to re-wire his brain into some new behavioural patterns.


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## middleofnowhere (Dec 20, 2000)

Sounds to me like perhaps some basic obedience training is in order. On walks, incorporate obedience with reward. Move her away from the distraction and have her sit. Reward the sit with whatever floats for her. To start, do this at a "low distraction" time - whenever that is.


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## Debanneball (Aug 28, 2014)

I read on a thread here that when you walk, constantly swing your arms back and forth. Sort of like tugging backwards on the dog when your arms go back. I tried it on my boy for fun, it worked, and every once in a while if there is no slack in the leash, I swing away! Good luck


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Have you tried finding a dog trainer or training classes?

If at 2.5 years, you are at your witts end with the dog and are using terms like "despise" and "hatred" then maybe it is time to consider throwing in the towel. I am sorry, but your dog deserves an owner that does not despise or hate her. It is possible that you and this dog just do not mesh well. Maybe you chose the wrong breed for your personality and activity level. And maybe just the wrong dog for you. It sounds like you have no bond at all, and letting her off lead when she is not trained and then yelling at her to come back, and expecting her to come to you when you have no bond, and have not trained her is exactly what not to do with a dog.

1. Do not let your dog off lead if you do not have a solid recall with or without distractions. She may be perfectly fine, but one of the dogs she runs up to, sooner or later, is going to lay her face wide open, and then it will be on. She may even kill that dog or another. This is terribly irresponsible behavior. 

2. Do not give commands that you cannot enforce immediately. If the dog is off lead, and you yell COME, and the dog does not, you have just taught your dog that she can ignore your commands. You need to go back to the beginning and train a command, and follow through every single time, either rewarding compliance, or helping her to reach the desired state and then praise. This time it will take longer, because she has to unlearn that she can ignore your commands. I mean everything, SIT, give her a chance, and if she doesn't get her into that position. Follow through every single time. Do not repeat commands, instead follow through. 

You are right that it is you that needs training. You are failing your dog right now. You need to get off the internet and into a class with a real live trainer. And you need to find a good trainer -- hopefully people here can help you with that. 

Do consider rehoming this dog. She sounds like not the right temperament for you, but she may be the perfect temperament for someone else. Then she will be relaxed and in a situation where she is loved, and people will not despise or hate doing things with her. Trust me that these feelings can't be masked by the dog. They do not understand them with the same thought processes we put into them, but they feel the big black ugliness of a strong negative feeling. If you do not feel relatively certain that you can improve this, than rehome her.


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## Traveler's Mom (Sep 24, 2012)

Selzer,

I think the OP was using those words only when referring to walking the dog. I didn't get the impression that she hated and despised the dog itself. I loved my Traveler more than anything but walking with him was just **** on wheels until I got help. Rehoming him never even crossed my mind. 

While it is true that for many, many people GSD's are too hard to handle but I think the OP is here asking for help. The best help will come from one on one training with a professional that is familiar with GSD's. Short of that, some real experienced people here on the forum can only give some generalized suggestions.

It may be that this situation has advanced where rehoming may become a reality but I can only hope the OP will pull out all the stops and get the help necessary to have a nice walk around the neighborhood without stress.

Lynn & Traveler


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

Having a dog is supposed to lower your blood pressure. It is supposed to be an enjoyable, fulfilling experience. It ought to be where we WANT to spend our time and our money. If that isn't where you are at, and if the words you describe the time you spend with your dog are so charged, like hatred and despise, I am sorry, but maybe continuing the relationship will only be bad for both parties.

The dog is 2.5 years old. Has she had the dog for 2+ years, or has she had him for 4-5 weeks? We don't know. But if she has had this dog for 2 years and we are using words like hatred and despise, then it is definitely time to think of our options. 

I think there is too much of a guilt trip put on people when they even consider rehoming a dog, and I think it isn't necessarily a good thing. No, we should not think of dogs as disposable, but if we have had the dog and we are just not connecting with the dog, it may be better to find the critter a new situation, because someone else may connect with that dog, and the dog will then have a shot of having a good life.


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## zyppi (Jun 2, 2006)

Yep... no fun when the dog is walking you.

Been there.

Several techniques that might be helpful. 

First, when your dog forges ahead, turn and go the other direction. Do this again and again until you're dizzy and the pup realizes that being in front is fruitless.

Next get someone to help you with a prong collar and it's proper fit and useage. 

Leerburg Dog Training | How to Fit a Prong Collar

It doesn't work by itself and should never be used as a 'tug' solution. The idea is to give short but meaningful "jerks" . A flick of your wrist should do. Research them. N

I teach my dogs a reliable down stay and when distractions come our way, I test their ability to control themselves when in a down. It works. 

Good luck and know that we've all learned by doing.


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## Dunkirk (May 7, 2015)

What is her behaviour like at home indoors? Is she calm and relaxed, or busy?


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## scotton86 (Aug 31, 2015)

Wow! I am so overwhelmed and thankful for everyone's help and advice. You have seen a damsel in distress and I'm so grateful you all took the time to stop, look and reply. Thankyou. 

There's a lot to reply to, so I'll do my best. 

I am definitely happy to seek the advice of a trainer now. I took her to some GSD puppy classes when she was younger, however I moved out of the area shortly afterwards and couldn't find anything comparable in my new area. I live near Winchester, UK. If anyone is able to recommend anyone (I am willing to travel and pay whatever it costs!) I would be really grateful. 

I try to tire her out with 2 tennis balls and the 'chucker', and it seems to work. By the end of the walk she is lying on the grass panting away with a big smile  The walk home is so much more bearable, though still ramps up if another dog approaches. I even managed to grab her attention back to me with the lure of the tennis ball the other day. A breakthrough in my attempts so far, but I tried it again on the walk TO the park the following day and she was just too excited to pay attention to me at all. 

I will certainly look into 'Bikejoring' though I feel I need to do a lot of work on basic obedience first. She's a little one at around 26kg... maybe it would be too much for her?

Steve Strom - Thankyou, great suggestion. I would feel bad for not taking her for a run though, but as others suggest I might try and tire her out 'mentally' at home too. I need to nail the basics. 

MadLab- I will have a look at that video and give your suggestions a try. 

A common theme seems to be the prong collar. I would have recoiled in horror at that, however a good number of people seem to be singing their praises. I will do my research, thankyou all for the suggestion. 

Chip 18 - Thankyou for the videos, I will watch avidly!

Unfortunately food is not Beau's thing at all. I tried rewarding good behaviour with bits of her kibbles, cheese, ham (without her having had a meal before the walk) and you can place it right by her nose and she'll snub it. I think the tennis ball might be the key here... 

Dunkirk- At home my dog is calm, relaxed, loving, obedient and the love of my life. She knows when I'm upset, she is tuned in to 'me' and is receptive to things I try and train her (though things seem to take a LOT of repetition, I'm not convinced she's all that intelligent..!). She's great with people, loves spending time with other dogs and gives the BEST cuddles. 

I'm so thankful for all your suggestions. I've tried everything that I know so far, and now I know more I'm willing to try more! I'm going to look for a trainer. I'm not giving up on Beau, I'm determined to master these walks so that every part of our life together is amazing. I might be failing her right now, but I love her too much to give up on her. 

I'll keep you all updated on mine and Beau's progress


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## MadLab (Jan 7, 2013)

Heres some clips from Tyler Mutos channel of interest
www.youtube.com/user/BuffaloDogTraining/videos

How to fit and use a prong correctly

www.youtube.com/watch?v=nibaQnS44FE

www.youtube.com/watch?v=85r03U5WPV8

Prong and Leash work

www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEnoPXgWG0U

Intro to the place command
www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s


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## counter (Feb 20, 2009)

scotton86 said:


> I will certainly look into 'Bikejoring' though I feel I need to do a lot of work on basic obedience first. She's a little one at around 26kg... maybe it would be too much for her?


Any dog that has the desire and ability to pull can do bikejoring. I'll find and attach some pics of smaller breeds doing it. Huskies are the best pound-for-pound pulling dogs, and they are on average much smaller than a GSD. Some are only 35-40 lbs/15-18 kg. Here are some pics of smaller, non-husky/GSD breeds pulling adult humans on bikes or scooters:


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

A good trainer to help you put the obedience and control on a dog that reactive. 

I totally feel your pain. It's hard being constantly on guard with a reactive dog.

Bikejoring? Seriously? For a dog that reactive? YOu want to put the dog out front and center? That sounds like an ER visit just waiting to happen.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

MadLab said:


> Heres some clips from Tyler Mutos channel of interest
> www.youtube.com/user/BuffaloDogTraining/videos
> 
> How to fit and use a prong correctly
> ...


Aww...I did not need to say a word! 

I'll just add this into the Place Command:
Why the “Place” Command is So Important and Your Dog Should Know It! - TheDogTrainingSecret.com


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## counter (Feb 20, 2009)

Jax08 said:


> Bikejoring? Seriously? For a dog that reactive? YOu want to put the dog out front and center? That sounds like an ER visit just waiting to happen.


 To me, bikejoring is a form of exercise that has helped calm my dogs through extreme energy expenditure. Do I go zipping by the local dog park with my team of out-of-control dogs? No. I find places with minimal distractions to do it. I purposely avoid other dogs, people, cars, etc. due to my reactive dogs. Haven't really had too many issues other than coyotes running with us. Bikejoring is constant obedience, and it gives the dog a job to do, thus maintaining that working dog lifestyle. Have I fallen or been dragged off my bike by my dogs? Yes. Have I ever gone to the ER in 5 years of doing this? Nope. 

It's called OPTIONS. Not everyone has to do what you think is best. She has to try out different ideas and options (look there's that word again) until she figures out what works for her and her dog. Bikejoring worked for my reactive dogs. Maybe it will work for hers. She'll never know until she tries some of these ideas everyone is throwing out.


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## MadLab (Jan 7, 2013)

I find cyclying and jogging a good form of exercise and it is good to trigger a dog into transit mode and hopefully it watches the world go by rather than reacting to it. But when I bike with my dogs I have them on short leashes at my side. Anything else is dangerous I reckon. Who's really gonna cycle at 20 k an hour with dog out front. It bolts and your in the ditch. I agree options are essential when someone is stuck not knowing what to do about situation. 

Yea Chip when I checked TM page I noticed how many clips he has now. Still if someone doesn't know what to do, i'd advise to watch everything they can to find clues and a solution, not just a couple of clips.


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

counter said:


> To me, bikejoring is a form of exercise that has helped calm my dogs through extreme energy expenditure. Do I go zipping by the local dog park with my team of out-of-control dogs? No. I find places with minimal distractions to do it. I purposely avoid other dogs, people, cars, etc. due to my reactive dogs. Haven't really had too many issues other than coyotes running with us. Bikejoring is constant obedience, and it gives the dog a job to do, thus maintaining that working dog lifestyle. Have I fallen or been dragged off my bike by my dogs? Yes. Have I ever gone to the ER in 5 years of doing this? Nope.
> 
> It's called OPTIONS. Not everyone has to do what you think is best. She has to *try out different ideas and options (look there's that word again) *until she figures out what works for her and her dog. Bikejoring worked for my reactive dogs. Maybe it will work for hers. She'll never know until she tries some of these ideas everyone is throwing out.


I don't think there is any reason to be nasty to me. I have never been to you in any way. So you can save your sarcasm for someone else.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

MadLab said:


> Yea Chip when I checked TM page I noticed how many clips he has now. Still if someone doesn't know what to do, I'd advise to watch everything they can to find clues and a solution, not just a couple of clips.


So now you are, getting it! The goal is to help others (as I view it) and those of us that "know what we are doing, have a much different take on info we find on the web!

As I've said in the past if you have no clue??? Everything on the web looks the same??? 

I tend to favor Jeff Gellman myself, mostly because I tend to work in the same fashion he does. But when I looked closer at TM, I did notice he covered a lot more of the "invisible" details that Jeff tends to over look?? 

Some of his Prong Collar work he does inside up against a walk, in order to get the dog to pay attention to where the handler is going! 

I don't need to do any of that myself, I throw the Slip Leash on the dog or a regular collar and we just get it done! That's great for me but not necessarily helpful to others!

And I do believe TM has his information (videos) a bit better organized than Jeff does? 

I did address this with Jeff on FB! As I have seen clips for info, that I "know" is there but at times I can't find it?? 

He was kinda like yeah there is a lot there but... "deal with it!" (My words not his!) 

By and large when newbies post they are looking for "specific" information if we can help to point them in the right direction... "then we've done our job." 

The rest is up to them and we can help as needed! Tha's my objective at any rate.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Aww, jeez seriously?? Are we going to do another "closed thread" thing here?? I find very little value in folks who know what they are doing, bickering with each other??? Sooo maybe we should start early and:










and maybe add:









Been sitting on those!


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## yuriy (Dec 23, 2012)

counter said:


> Wanted to add: training and obedience are more important than excessive exercise.


This.

The dog needs training, and a lot of it. Your dog clearly doesn't respect your leadership.

I suggest finding a local trainer that trains dogs for Schutzhund and has achieved some results in the sport. I can say from personal experienced that after having worked with two local Schutzhund trainers (and continuing to work with one to this day), I would never work with a "normal" dog trainer again.

First things first, the dog needs to learn to pay attention to you. Have a look at this link: Schutzhund-Training.com - Focus and Attention. That's a good outline of the general concepts. Do this for every single meal for a couple weeks and you'll see drastic results in how your dog acts around/towards you (continue to do so past the couple weeks).


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

If you are in the UK, prong collars may not be lawful there. Check into it.


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## Orson (Aug 3, 2015)

Get a Halti head collar, it has turned my guy (literally) around full circle. He use to love chasing squirrels and saying hi to every dog walking by but now it's a whole different story.

I was considering a prong collar but I liked the thought of him turning whenever he pulled and ending up staring at me. Eventually he got the idea that I was the leader but it takes time.


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## Chip18 (Jan 11, 2014)

Orson said:


> Get a Halti head collar, it has turned my guy (literally) around full circle. He use to love chasing squirrels and saying hi to every dog walking by but now it's a whole different story.
> 
> I was considering a prong collar but I liked the thought of him turning whenever he pulled and ending up staring at me. Eventually he got the idea that I was the leader but it takes time.


????? Hmmm, I'll just follow my own advise and...


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## joeinca (Mar 19, 2015)

amburger16 said:


> For the aggressive leash behavior, have a trainer evaluate the situation. For pulling, look up Jeff Gellman videos on the prong collar. It works.
> 
> Up the exercise, walking is exercise for lazy dog breeds not GSDs. She needs off leash running, 2 ball fetch is great. Swimming is also great exercise. Mental stimulation as well, lots of training, games like hide and seek, make her think, it will tire her out aswell.


Agree completely. 2 ball fetch with a chuckit will take the edge off considerably. Walking isn't enough.


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## Jenny720 (Nov 21, 2014)

You got good advise here but if you are still feeling frustrated working with a trainer may help give you some clarity.


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## counter (Feb 20, 2009)

Jax08 said:


> I don't think there is any reason to be nasty to me. I have never been to you in any way. So you can save your sarcasm for someone else.


 No one was being "nasty" to you. Without quoting me, you indirectly called me out and criticized my input for bikejoring as an option. I have 4 reactive dogs, and have had zero issues with bikejoring. I had a lot more issues while trying to walk them. Bikejoring saved us. There was no sarcasm either. I was 100% serious in my reply. Everyone who has replied has offered various opinions and options for the OP to sort through. To "attack" the option I presented was more "nasty" than anything I wrote to you. Sorry if you were offended. I couldn't stand by and let you criticize my input without responding to defend myself. I tried to keep it as civil as I could to not further a needless debate.


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## kshadow (Oct 25, 2015)

I had the same issue which I see lots of improvements in little time.

Prong collar.

Watch Jeff Gellman's videos on youtube!


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## counter (Feb 20, 2009)

MadLab said:


> I find cyclying and jogging a good form of exercise and it is good to trigger a dog into transit mode and hopefully it watches the world go by rather than reacting to it. But when I bike with my dogs I have them on short leashes at my side. Anything else is dangerous I reckon. Who's really gonna cycle at 20 k an hour with dog out front. It bolts and your in the ditch. I agree options are essential when someone is stuck not knowing what to do about situation.


Bikejoring is a dog powered sport where the dog is supposed to be out in front. We deal with coyotes, jackrabbits, bunnies, squirrels and whistle pigs (and countless other critters) everywhere we bikejor. The dogs, over time, are trained to "leave it" with the ON BY command as they run and stay on the path instead of dragging me into the ditch. They've done it before (thanks to a fearless and brave coyote who trotted slowly across the path 20 feet directly in front of us and then stopped on the side to stare at sprinting dogs pulling a human on a bike right at it...what a sight it must've been!), but that was in the beginning when I was a newbie and we were all learning together. It's been years since they've steered off course after a running/hopping critter, yet we still encounter them daily. This morning we were surrounded by multiple packs of coyotes howling under the moonlight. The dogs could hear and smell them, but I kept them focused with verbal commands and they stayed on the trail and kept running as expected. 

I think biking with a dog next to me instead of out front is way more dangerous, but that's coming from a now-seasoned bikejorer. I've tried it before, but I had a lot less control trying to hold a leash or somehow attach the leash to my bike or my body if/when the dog decides to bolt. With them out front, when they bolt (which they have many times), their strength, speed, and sudden change of direction was more balanced and able to be contained and controlled (versus everything coming up the leash from my side). I was able to just guide them with my bike and body by steering in the opposite direction, and the gangline has a built-in bungee to absorb the shock. I have the dogs attached to a skijoring belt/harness around my waist, so where the bike and I go, the dogs go too. They don't have an option. I remember the days of biking with them on a leash beside me. It wasn't pretty! Ha. They have high prey drive, so advanced obedience might've helped with that, but I jumped to bikejoring before I went too far down that road. Still, your advice in just another option for the OP to try! It never hurts to find what works.


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