# Loose leash with dog in front



## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

Is there a particular method to teach this? Jupiter likes to go in front and sniff things, but he keeps getting to the end of the leash. Then I stop, wait for him to look at me, and then proceed. But he will just hurry up and get to the end of the leash again. His walking pace is just faster than mine.

I would prefer to let him rove as he would, as long as he doesn't break my stride, but the training info I've seen always has the dog in a heel or heel-like position. How would you teach a relaxed loose-leash walk?


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## tim_s_adams (Aug 9, 2017)

The key to loose leash walking IMHO, is that your dog has to be hyper aware of you and your position at all times. When they're leading they just aren't, so allowing your dog to lead the way and getting him to maintain a loose leash are sort of incompatible. 

I allow my dog to lead at times, because it just seems fair to me. But when I want/expect a loose leash walk, the command I use is "with me", which essentially means no leading and pay attention.

Beyond not leading though, she can sniff or pause or do whatever, as long as she remains "with me". For us, most of this work is off leash too, so it's less about a loose leash and more about not leading and or lagging too much. Then like I said, I release her occassionally so she can run ahead and do whatever.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

This is how I walk dogs when on leash, unless there is a reason for a tight heel. I use a prong to teach it.

I first teach leash pressure, so the dog understands how to move into the leash to turn it off.

Then I let the dog wander on the leash. Anytime there is tension, small repeated pops until the dog releases tension, then mark and reward.

Then you just change up the length of leash you allow the dog to have so it understands that it's not about position but rather tension on the leash.


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## GSD07 (Feb 23, 2007)

I walk my dog like that all majority of the time. It’s taught using the leash pressure like David explained above, and the leash becomes a communication tool.

They are very well aware where we are at all times, no need to constantly look at us. This morning I made an experiment - I stopped, Hunter stopped, still looking forward (I want that, no need to look at me), I quietly turned around and started walking and didn’t feel any increased tension, he turned around smoothly as well.

When walking, I also use a lot of voice commands that have to be followed without looking at me and without changing speed unless asked. Directional command gee/haw (right/left), on by, turn around, slow, wait, go go go (go faster), run (sprint), with me, go ahead (go forward to the given extend of the leash), go sniff (he can sniff and I will follow him wherever he needs to go). I set the speed and choose routes.

It’s been working for us. He’s an independent dog, I had to come up with ideas since he does not naturally stare into my eyes every single time waiting for guidance


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

GSD07 said:


> I walk my dog like that all majority of the time. It’s taught using the leash pressure like David explained above, and the leash becomes a communication tool.
> 
> They are very well aware where we are at all times, no need to constantly look at us. This morning I made an experiment - I stopped, Hunter stopped, still looking forward (I want that, no need to look at me), I quietly turned around and started walking and didn’t feel any increased tension, he turned around smoothly as well.
> 
> ...


This is all successful communication and pattern cognizance.


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## GSD07 (Feb 23, 2007)

David Winners said:


> This is all successful communication and pattern cognizance.


 It’s also makes walks so much more enjoyable and so easy! Forcing him to walk in a tight heel or behind for miles would not be fun for anyone.


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## SMcN (Feb 12, 2021)

@David Winners and @GSD07. Thanks for the detailed responses to the OP's question. This was on my list of questions to ask as well. 
Can this initially be taught using the martingale collar as this is what we are going to start new puppy on. Have no problem with using a prong but that, if we go to it, will be in the future, and this is a skill I think can be started very young as 'free' (with limitations) walking around getting acquainted with his new territory is integral to safety as well as building obedience and confidence.
Also, could someone describe the 'popping of the leash' in more detail? I think I understand it, but I am more of a visual learner, so if you know of a particularly good video that shows it well enough that would be great. How I think it works, is when the dog hits the end of the leash, you release tension (by moving your arm forward) then (and this is what it looked like to me) you 'roll' the line and snap it. The video I saw, wasn't taken very close and I wish the trainer would have stopped and broken down the movements.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

I don't do this training with puppies. I keep them in harness on a long line for the most part. I use a slip lead for obstacle course stuff and vet visits.

I typically just let them pull on the harness. I don't want to pollute the collar by allowing bad behaviors. I also want to control the pup as much as possible through rewards based training. I want the buy in from the pup and restrictive OB doesn't fit that model.

It only takes a couple short sessions to teach leash pressure, providing marker foundation is there, and then another couple sessions to get loose leash walking down. I just wait until the dog fits into how I like to train these things. Most of my puppy training is off leash romp type stuff. I save more rules type training for after teething and the pup has some impulse control through foundation work.

I think you could train this in a lot of ways. I would want to look at the rest of your training and how the dog is responding to you before suggesting a particular age or piece of equipment. I wait until the dog is following my lead, even if they are in front, on off leash hikes. I want them in tune with my change of direction and used to being rewarded for following me and trying to figure out what I'm wanting.

ETA: I'm not really your normal trainer in the aspect that, for the most part, I don't teach things independently. I roll new behaviors into daily life when it seems like it's a good fit. I find that if I look at what the dog is offering in terms of behavior and willingness and then let that guide me towards behaviors that I may want to train, things click really quickly and I don't need a bunch of reps. 

Puppies like to bite, chase and explore, so that's what I do with them. As they learn that I'm the bringer of all things fun, they start to pay attention and their willingness to work grows. I save work type stuff for after this starts to show. Once the pup is active instead of reactive, and has some attention span, then I start training complex behaviors because they are in a place where learning these difficult things is a fun challenge and not a dreaded task.


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## markdog (Dec 8, 2021)

SMcN said:


> Also, could someone describe the 'popping of the leash' in more detail? I think I understand it, but I am more of a visual learner, so if you know of a particularly good video that shows it well enough that would be great. How I think it works, is when the dog hits the end of the leash, you release tension (by moving your arm forward) then (and this is what it looked like to me) you 'roll' the line and snap it. The video I saw, wasn't taken very close and I wish the trainer would have stopped and broken down the movements.


Here is one:









Stop Leash Pulling, Lunging, and how to use a Prong Collar


^^^^^^^^^ This is how I do it for the most part. A very simple, no BS method.




www.germanshepherds.com


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## wolfy dog (Aug 1, 2012)

As long as I know that the dog knows where I am, it's fine with me. But I practice heeling off and on as a reminder to me and them that we are still on the same page.


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## GSDchoice (Jul 26, 2016)

I'm fine with my dog walking ahead of me, far to left or right (for sniffing) etc. And I'll stop and wait for him when he stops to sniff. 

The only thing I worked on was the hard crazy pulling! I did this by playing a version of "red light green light" where, if he pulled hard, I just stopped in my tracks. When the leash got loose, I moved forward again. I also went through a stage of making 90 degree turns when he hit the end of the leash, to remind him to stay somewhat aware of where I am and not just ignore me. He's good these days, but will still pull when he sees a running cat or deer. Nevertheless for me as a pet dog owner, that's "good enough".

He does know "Stay Close" which means walk close by my leg, but I generally only use for few minutes at time (crosswalks, car passing, crowds, etc)
The other really useful trained behavior on walks for us is "Wait wait" which means stand still (crossing a street, picking up poop!)

( Some people say that if you let dogs walk ahead of you, it's allowing Domination, but I personally don't believe it's an act of domination except maybe in a few dogs. Most dogs are just excited to see/smell things and walk naturally faster than their people (double the legs).


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

David Winners said:


> This is how I walk dogs when on leash, unless there is a reason for a tight heel. I use a prong to teach it.
> 
> I first teach leash pressure, so the dog understands how to move into the leash to turn it off.
> 
> ...


What I've been doing is to freeze when he reaches the end. He will take a varying amount of time to either sort of go a bit left or right or just look at me. Either way, I time my stride for the instant he loosens up. I haven't been popping him--is that part necessary? Would you recommend me to start using different length leashes where we are right now?

A bit of backstory--I had previously been allowing Jupiter to sniff as much as he wanted and to usually wait for him, but I got tired of that. So this is retraining.


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## drparker151 (Apr 10, 2020)

GSDchoice said:


> I'm fine with my dog walking ahead of me, far to left or right (for sniffing) etc. And I'll stop and wait for him when he stops to sniff.
> 
> The only thing I worked on was the hard crazy pulling! I did this by playing a version of "red light green light" where, if he pulled hard, I just stopped in my tracks. When the leash got loose, I moved forward again. I also went through a stage of making 90 degree turns when he hit the end of the leash, to remind him to stay somewhat aware of where I am and not just ignore me. He's good these days, but will still pull when he sees a running cat or deer. Nevertheless for me as a pet dog owner, that's "good enough".
> 
> ...


We have had multiple dogs many times over the years and they definitely want to be first, maybe it's so they can get the tasty morsel if they find one. If walking one dog with multiple people they always pull to get out in front of everyone.

I thought I read it's also kind of an ingrained breed thing with GSDs, leading the flock, then circling back around looking for stragglers, then back to lead. I notice this more when she is off leash, running ahead and then circling back.

With Jaz I need to work on the "with me" or "walk close", she will either heel or is on the very edge of the leash not really pulling but not loose either.


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## GSD07 (Feb 23, 2007)

CactusWren said:


> What I've been doing is to freeze when he reaches the end. He will take a varying amount of time to either sort of go a bit left or right or just look at me. Either way, I time my stride for the instant he loosens up. I haven't been popping him--is that part necessary? Would you recommend me to start using different length leashes where we are right now?
> 
> A bit of backstory--I had previously been allowing Jupiter to sniff as much as he wanted and to usually wait for him, but I got tired of that. So this is retraining.


David will have a better answer but what I see here: your dog has no idea what you want from him and he is just wondering why you are stopping so suddenly and what you want from him. You will add popping and your dog will treat it as an annoying nagging. Teach him the behavior separately.

Put him on a leash, flat collar or prong if you haven’t used it yet for corrections, and pull slightly and steady. The micro moment your pup gives in release immediately and reward and praise. Repeat 2 times and done. It’s stressful and goes against the opposition reflex. Then go from there. I teach giving into the collar as well.

The backstory sniffing - attach a cue to it and use it, mine is Go sniff. I will follow my dog from tree to tree if that’s what he wants. Then the release cue and back to whatever I need to do.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

CactusWren said:


> What I've been doing is to freeze when he reaches the end. He will take a varying amount of time to either sort of go a bit left or right or just look at me. Either way, I time my stride for the instant he loosens up. I haven't been popping him--is that part necessary? Would you recommend me to start using different length leashes where we are right now?
> 
> A bit of backstory--I had previously been allowing Jupiter to sniff as much as he wanted and to usually wait for him, but I got tired of that. So this is retraining.


Did you read my reply to your initial post? I pretty much laid out how I train this. I start by training leash pressure. I wouldn't skip this. It lays the foundation for explaining what you want the dog to do.

If you want to skip that, you are either going to have to make it rewarding to stop pulling on the leash or uncomfortable to pull on the leash or both.

What I see a lot of its people depending on equipment to fix the problem and then the dog learning to ignore the equipment. A dog will learn to pull against anything if it's rewarding to do so.

If you have good timing and the right dog, you can probably use the stop and go method. I have found that it takes a long time and that it can fall apart if you have to correct the dog for reactive behavior. 

I also use leash pressure to apply stress to the dog that has a quick release with fun stuff afterwards. This exposes the dog to pressure and release in a positive way, much like shifting between defense and prey in bite work.

It's a big part of later training for me so I see no need to use another method to teach leash manners.

ETA: if you want help with another method, I am more than willing. I have tried about everything and I understand the methods well. I'm not trying to say that the way I train it is the only way or better or anything. It just fits into my training later so that's what I choose to do.


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## Chloé&Buck (Jul 1, 2020)

Do you guys have some videos of your various leash walk styles?


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

David Winners said:


> Did you read my reply to your initial post? I pretty much laid out how I train this. I start by training leash pressure. I wouldn't skip this. It lays the foundation for explaining what you want the dog to do.
> 
> If you want to skip that, you are either going to have to make it rewarding to stop pulling on the leash or uncomfortable to pull on the leash or both.
> 
> ...


I think I didn't properly understand the leash pressure aspect. I thought that Jupiter stopping and looking back was a way of training that/showed that he was not pulling through pressure. He does stop, but he isn't getting the right message.

Given that he is extremely food motivated, would it make sense to mark and reward anytime he goes from a tight leash to a loose leash as a way to teach him to avoid leash pressure?


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

There are better videos out there, but here is me explaining and demonstrating with Valor.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

CactusWren said:


> I think I didn't properly understand the leash pressure aspect. I thought that Jupiter stopping and looking back was a way of training that/showed that he was not pulling through pressure. He does stop, but he isn't getting the right message.
> 
> Given that he is extremely food motivated, would it make sense to mark and reward anytime he goes from a tight leash to a loose leash as a way to teach him to avoid leash pressure?


I wouldn't train this during a walk. I get all the pieces in place and working properly, so the dog is readily giving in to leash pressure and looking for a reward, before I add any distraction.

Then I add small distractions and build from there. It goes quickly if you don't rush it


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## WNGD (Jan 15, 2005)

Nice work but I think what she wants is the dog to feel leash pressure and back off from that pressure on it's own (you can mark with a "don't pull" command"), not come back to her. You want a freight-training puller to just allow for a bit of slack. I love how eager Valor is to learn/work at a young age.


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## Chloé&Buck (Jul 1, 2020)

I have achieved loose leash walk with my Boxer mix by teaching her how to release leash pressure on one hand and how to heel on the other hand. Then I have used the chain of consequences : if you pull > voice cue to stop pulling > leash pop if doesn't comply and lastly, if you fail to walk calmly I'll ask you to strictly heel (so you loose opportunities to sniff). 
It's kind of the whole training logic I guess... There are nuances of freedom and control, and the dog can buy himself freedom by following the rules.
Ultimately you're just having a conversation with you dog that unfolds in a logical way and they know how to make it work.
I'm unable to do loose leash walking with my shepherd boy though... He's too explosive.
If I apply what I do with my girl, he'll just be yoyoing nonstop and be ok a constant state of alertness (perked ears, etc.) 
With him, the "off"/complete surrender heel works best. It's either this or freedom of movement. 
No in-between, at least not for now.


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## GSD07 (Feb 23, 2007)

I think now I am confused with everyone’s understanding of leash pressure. As I see it, No cue is nesessary, the dog just gives in. For example, I’m standing and my dog is standing next to me on leash, a bit too forward so he may be hit by a turning car (to show a practical application). I pull back a little bit on the leash, horizontally, and my dog backs up a little, a step or two so he’s safe. He can still look at what he’s looking at, just moves his body. That’s him responding to leash pressure.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

WNGD said:


> Nice work but I think what she wants is the dog to feel leash pressure and back off from that pressure on it's own (you can mark with a "don't pull" command"), not come back to her. You want a freight-training puller to just allow for a bit of slack. I love how eager Valor is to learn/work at a young age.


That training is the foundation for exactly as you describe. The dog learns to move towards the leash pressure.

Next step is very directional pressure, back, forward, sideways, angles, up, down. All marked and rewarded.

Then you have the ability to move the dog in any direction, including back to create slack. 

Thanks


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

GSD07 said:


> I think now I am confused with everyone’s understanding of leash pressure. As I see it, No cue is nesessary, the dog just gives in. For example, I’m standing and my dog is standing next to me on leash, a bit too forward so he may be hit by a turning car (to show a practical application). I pull back a little bit on the leash, horizontally, and my dog backs up a little, a step or two so he’s safe. He can still look at what he’s looking at, just moves his body. That’s him responding to leash pressure.


Yes. Exactly. No verbal cue. Just yield to the leash in whatever direction the pressure is coming from.


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

I did a bit of work on this today with some treats and Jupiter did much better on the walk! He is a very smart boy. Maybe it was what he needed to connect me "randomly" stopping and the leash pressure. I will keep working on this and also get a different leash. I may have to figure something out for when he marks and/or gets too far behind me. I am currently just walking through it or leash-popping, but he is such a brute that he seems quite willing to endure it to get in another half second of marking.

(BTW, we are both males).


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

CactusWren said:


> I did a bit of work on this today with some treats and Jupiter did much better on the walk! He is a very smart boy. Maybe it was what he needed to connect me "randomly" stopping and the leash pressure. I will keep working on this and also get a different leash. I may have to figure something out for when he marks and/or gets too far behind me. I am currently just walking through it or leash-popping, but he is such a brute that he seems quite willing to endure it to get in another half second of marking.
> 
> (BTW, we are both males).


While I have a tendency to let dogs be dogs and sniff, you could teach leave it, which is simple after leash pressure is solid.


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## Chloé&Buck (Jul 1, 2020)

@CactusWren you would like your dog to sniff but not mark? It's more difficult as it goes hand in hand... But once he knows what leash pressure means he'll learn to "drop" stuff when asked and better adjust to your pace (not use force to stay on a spot).


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## Chloé&Buck (Jul 1, 2020)

"do whatever but just without pulling" is a more difficult message to convey, depending on the dog's mindset and energy.
You can negotiate this with chill/moderate dogs, but not necessarily with more explosive or reactive dogs (Jupiter sounds quite moderate though). 
There's no way Buck is going to keep calm if I let him rove around on a leash in busy streets or urban areas. Only a heel will set him in "off" mode. As soon as he's "free" he'll be bounding and sprinting in all directions like a flipper ball. Will still be super obedient, but just explosive-obedient, so applied to leash walk that would just mean him bounding back and forth.
Plus he's reactive so I need to keep his alertness down on sidewalks and paths where we meet other animals.
This is our current "deal" with my dogs when we go from point A to point B > Mo can do whatever as long as she stays back, and Buck needs to stay close to my left leg.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

Explosive, reactive, high drive, wants to fight....









You can do it.


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

Chloé&Buck said:


> @CactusWren you would like your dog to sniff but not mark? It's more difficult as it goes hand in hand... But once he knows what leash pressure means he'll learn to "drop" stuff when asked and better adjust to your pace (not use force to stay on a spot).


Maybe it's not compatible. I guess I want to give him as much freedom as possible without interfering much with my stride--I want to maintain a relatively fast walk without having to stop every minute or so. He doesn't fight me so much as sort of trade a leash pop for the chance to mark a bit more. It seems that we've reached an equilibrium there, but I'm not very happy with it since I don't like dealing out punishment, especially when it's not changing the behavior. He does seem to be quicker about it if I verbally warn him (I verbally correct, then pop) rather than just continue walking through.


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

David Winners said:


> Explosive, reactive, high drive, wants to fight....
> View attachment 581155
> 
> 
> You can do it.


I imagine both you and the dog are feeling fairly high levels of stress in such conditions, David? It's certainly a lot more than I have to deal with, even with the gauntlet of vicious 5-lb terriers, frothing chihuahuas, and psychopathic huskies in my neighborhood. Were there very many strays running around in that area?


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## drparker151 (Apr 10, 2020)

CactusWren said:


> Maybe it's not compatible. I guess I want to give him as much freedom as possible without interfering much with my stride--I want to maintain a relatively fast walk without having to stop every minute or so. He doesn't fight me so much as sort of trade a leash pop for the chance to mark a bit more. It seems that we've reached an equilibrium there, but I'm not very happy with it since I don't like dealing out punishment, especially when it's not changing the behavior. He does seem to be quicker about it if I verbally warn him (I verbally correct, then pop) rather than just continue walking through.


All fast walk does not sound like much fun for the dog. Have you tried alternating it, slow stroll to sniff, mark and explore, then period of fast walk, then more sniff and back to another fast walk. Maybe at first you need to do a heel while fast walking, then release to sniff and explore. Alternating heel and release?


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## Bearshandler (Aug 29, 2019)

CactusWren said:


> Maybe it's not compatible. I guess I want to give him as much freedom as possible without interfering much with my stride--I want to maintain a relatively fast walk without having to stop every minute or so. He doesn't fight me so much as sort of trade a leash pop for the chance to mark a bit more. It seems that we've reached an equilibrium there, but I'm not very happy with it since I don't like dealing out punishment, especially when it's not changing the behavior. He does seem to be quicker about it if I verbally warn him (I verbally correct, then pop) rather than just continue walking through.


I’d consider why you are walking in the first place. If you’re trying to get somewhere as quick as possible, which is what it sounds like, you’re probably better off using a service heel. When I’m walking bear, a serial marker, I will wait if he actually decides to mark. If he’s just sniffing and slowing me down, I will tell him let’s go and give a couple pops to get him moving. If it’s a bigger rush, I will put him in a service heel.


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## Chloé&Buck (Jul 1, 2020)

CactusWren said:


> Maybe it's not compatible. I guess I want to give him as much freedom as possible without interfering much with my stride--I want to maintain a relatively fast walk without having to stop every minute or so. He doesn't fight me so much as sort of trade a leash pop for the chance to mark a bit more. It seems that we've reached an equilibrium there, but I'm not very happy with it since I don't like dealing out punishment, especially when it's not changing the behavior. He does seem to be quicker about it if I verbally warn him (I verbally correct, then pop) rather than just continue walking through.


Yes, that's what I managed to do with my other dog but it did take a lot of time and adjustments. Now I don't think about it much anymore, she's just learned to constantly adapt to my stride and do her stuff but still be mindful, it's an equilibrium as you said.
Maybe try to reinforce your verbal cues and vary a bit as drparker suggested, surprise him a bit to grow that connection and allow him to still "hear" you when distracted.

I'm not planning to let Buck rove on a collar anytime soon though. Being a natural flipper ball, he's making huge efforts to slow down and keep calm already, sending him forward and allowing him to take scents etc. but still expecting moderation from him in all these aspects in busy areas would be asking ways too much from him at that point.
I prefer to reinforce calm only on a leash and let him do the rest off leash 
(He's got plenty of time to explore, sniff, mark and run around off leash)
That is also because in my life style, we only use the leash+collar to go from A to B in busy areas. Dogs are free most of the time so it's not like I absolutely need to let them explore while on a leash.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

CactusWren said:


> I imagine both you and the dog are feeling fairly high levels of stress in such conditions, David? It's certainly a lot more than I have to deal with, even with the gauntlet of vicious 5-lb terriers, frothing chihuahuas, and psychopathic huskies in my neighborhood. Were there very many strays running around in that area?


Yes. We did everything we could to get the dogs away without injury to them or Fama.

There is little stress in that picture. Tail medium. Ears medium. I'm not pointing a weapon at anyone. You learn to relax. You have to. I think it made me a much better trainer. It certainly made me a better handler. I think it made her a better dog. She had the nerve to withstand that pressure and become acclimated. It's no different than any other reactivity training. Just different scenery.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

drparker151 said:


> All fast walk does not sound like much fun for the dog. Have you tried alternating it, slow stroll to sniff, mark and explore, then period of fast walk, then more sniff and back to another fast walk. Maybe at first you need to do a heel while fast walking, then release to sniff and explore. Alternating heel and release?


I walk dogs on a long line unless in very congested areas. They have 30' in any direction unless there is a reason they need to be closer. This affords time to sniff and mark and sprint to catch up and explore.


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## Bearshandler (Aug 29, 2019)

David Winners said:


> I walk dogs on a long line unless in very congested areas. They have 30' in any direction unless there is a reason they need to be closer. This affords time to sniff and mark and sprint to catch up and explore.


You know I tried that before but I hate handling long lines.


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## Fodder (Oct 21, 2007)

ok @CactusWren, try this….
leash pressure / collar response it the correct answer, but it’s a process, and i get the impression that you’d like to accomplish your goals without much training or formalities. based on what you’re already doing, instead of having him stop and look, require him to come all the way back to you. or there’s the good ol fashion change in direction…. he hits the end of the leash, you turn around and walk the other way until it happens again, rinse and repeat. 
sounds boring huh? well it’s going to bore the heck out of him too and he’ll learn to stick closer and stop straining.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

Bearshandler said:


> You know I tried that before but I hate handling long lines.


It's a skill that requires many mIshaps, falls, burns, tangles, swear words, more swear words... But once you get to level 100, you still fall on your rear sometimes.


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## David Winners (Apr 30, 2012)

Fodder said:


> ok @CactusWren, try this….
> leash pressure / collar response it the correct answer, but it’s a process, and i get the impression that you’d like to accomplish your goals without much training or formalities. based on what you’re already doing, instead of having him stop and look, require him to come all the way back to you. or there’s the good ol fashion change in direction…. he hits the end of the leash, you turn around and walk the other way until it happens again, rinse and repeat.
> sounds boring huh? well it’s going to bore the heck out of him too and he’ll learn to stick closer and stop straining.


Here's how I learned it. Chaos. Constant change.






Throw in some Ivan style markers and rewards and some Michael style directional exercises.


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

Bearshandler said:


> You know I tried that before but I hate handling long lines.


ha, I have scars on both ankles from long line mishaps and two-ball fetch in both directions. It took a while to get the angles right.


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## CactusWren (Nov 4, 2018)

Yesterday, I experimented with letting him mark a bit and seeing whether that would work for us. I found it was mostly okay, and I think it's tolerable for my goal of a decent pace. I also have been training release pressure with treats inside and will continue to work on that. It seems to help any tendency to pull--when he does it, I stop and encourage him to at least take a step or two back to me, and then we go forward. I think he is catching on that pulling is not good and the way to continue is to go backwards, first.

Occasionally, he finds a scent that is extremely enticing and gets stubborn on those. 

Also, anyone have any advice for training him to distinguish between having to poop and wanting to sniff? He has a habit of just dropping and eliminating. I have gotten a bit of an instinct about which is which, but it requires some reaction speed. Especially when I'm riding my bike with him on the Springer. He will just sit down and go for it.


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