# My GS puppy face



## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

I noticed that my puppy has a short and a little bit curved face (mouth and noise). I had a gsd before and he wasn't like that. Any explanation please

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## doggiedad (Dec 2, 2007)

how old is your pup? is he from a reputable breeder?


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## Jax08 (Feb 13, 2009)

Picture?


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

3 weeks and 2 days old. My uncle gave to me as a gift.

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

3 weeks is way young to be given away 
he should still be nursing on mama which is 
probably why his face looks like it does


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

Thats the puppy

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## Loneforce (Feb 12, 2012)

MyRex said:


> Thats the puppy
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


Don't worry. That snout will grow  Cute pup! Keep looking at pictures of the pup the next few weeks, you will see a lot of changing. Where is the Mama? The little thing should be with her.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

He eats organic beef with yoghurt like a monster. He always refuses to drink milk. weights 1.7 kg .
But i am wondering when would he drink water ?

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

he needs puppy formula at least
or be back with mama would be best
he needs to nurse and get those nutrients
their bodies so young do not have the necessary
enzymes to make use of solid food
why do you have him so young?


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

It is a gift i can't get him back.
But he's doing so good and day after day getting better.
Just wondering how to make him drink water.
Advices please.

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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

Loneforce said:


> Don't worry. That snout will grow  Cute pup! Keep looking at pictures of the pup the next few weeks, you will see a lot of changing. Where is the Mama? The little thing should be with her.


I cant get him back to his mother. Do you think he won't live ?

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

a baby bottle
although a gift
the breeder won't allow mama to continue 
to nurse him until he's older??
you can go back and get him when he's 8 weeks old


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

Thank you for advice.
I will try my best.

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## Loneforce (Feb 12, 2012)

MyRex said:


> I cant get him back to his mother. Do you think he won't live ?
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


There are forum members that have raised motherless puppies before on here. I hope they chime in. If you follow their advice, he should make it though it ok. I believe the member *SELTZER* may be of help to you. There are so many things you need to be doing to help him right now. I don't want to tell you the wrong stuff.


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## GSDAlphaMom (Jul 20, 2010)

Do no feed him cows milk. Make a puppy formula or use goats milk. As others said should be with his mother and littermates several more weeks. Where are you located?


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## Loneforce (Feb 12, 2012)

I sent selzer a pm for you myrex. Hopefully she can help you out.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

GSDAlphaMom said:


> Do no feed him cows milk. Make a puppy formula or use goats milk. As others said should be with his mother and littermates several more weeks. Where are you located?


I am from Lebanon. I am not feeding him cows milk but all my friends raised their gsd feeding them cow milk. That really confused me. And they tell me to feed him full fat cow milk .

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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

Loneforce said:


> I sent selzer a pm for you myrex. Hopefully she can help you out.


Thank you so much 

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

if u can't get puppy formula
or goat milk
whole fat cow milk could work 
but won't be very good for puppy


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

my boy diesel said:


> if u can't get puppy formula
> or goat milk
> whole fat cow milk could work
> but won't be very good for puppy


I can.
But can you explain please why cow milk is not so good for puppies, any bad side effects could happen to the puppy ?

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

lactose
dogs are often intolerant to it
plus the sheer fact a mammal makes 
milk for it's own species and more specifically
it's own babies
thus being the ideal food for it's infants
calves eventually weigh around 1ton
most shepherds weigh up to 80-90 pounds
so the ideal food for a baby cow
isn't the ideal food for a baby dog


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

my boy diesel said:


> lactose
> dogs are often intolerant to it
> plus the sheer fact a mammal makes
> milk for it's own species and more specifically
> ...


Really convincing answer.
But when you say intolerant do you mean it can cause death to the puppy ?

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

well it could cause failure to thrive 
as it doesn't have appropriate nutrients
but even if it did and the lactose can't be digested
then that will cause irritation in the stomach 
and intestines
that could cause malabsorption 
so the gut won't work properly

find either puppy formula or goat milk which apparently
has less lactose


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

my boy diesel said:


> well it could cause failure to thrive
> as it doesn't have appropriate nutrients
> but even if it did and the lactose can't be digested
> then that will cause irritation in the stomach
> ...


Many thanks.
Valuable info.

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## gsdsar (May 21, 2002)

At 3 1/2 weeks, most breeders would be starting to wean the pups, at least offering a gruel/slop of finely ground up kibble mixed with milk until it's very soupy/thin. If you have access, and I am not sure based on your location, then you can try that. Make it very thin and put some on a finger and offer it to your pup. Still a bit young to lick it up on his own, but it's a start. 

Good luck to you. 


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## robeangyalchen (Aug 11, 2013)

Everything has already been said here, please follow the instructions fellow experienced member gave.
It is gonna be hard but not impossible, almost a year ago we saved a whole litter of pups stranded in a sidewalk, they were barely 4 weeks...we fed them with a bottle, fed all kinds of food we can imagine...lucky for you you are in a goldmine of advice...2 of 6 pups did't make it.

We did save four of them and we gave it to families who wanted to adopt.
Ask all the questions you have, read all articles you can find..you and your little fella will be fine, Good luck.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

gsdsar said:


> At 3 1/2 weeks, most breeders would be starting to wean the pups, at least offering a gruel/slop of finely ground up kibble mixed with milk until it's very soupy/thin. If you have access, and I am not sure based on your location, then you can try that. Make it very thin and put some on a finger and offer it to your pup. Still a bit young to lick it up on his own, but it's a start.
> 
> Good luck to you.
> 
> ...


I am grinding for him organic beef with some yoghurt and he eats it really good. But since he doesn't drink milk and refuses to do so i am trying to give him water but refuses also. Any idea?

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## gsdsar (May 21, 2002)

MyRex said:


> I am grinding for him organic beef with some yoghurt and he eats it really good. But since he doesn't drink milk and refuses to do so i am trying to give him water but refuses also. Any idea?
> 
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Add water to the mix. Make it a bit thinner. Ground meat and yoghurt with water should be enough fluids. 


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

gsdsar said:


> Add water to the mix. Make it a bit thinner. Ground meat and yoghurt with water should be enough fluids.
> 
> 
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Well i didn't think about that ! 
Good idea.
Thank you so much.
Hope i will post his photo as a mature in future 

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## my boy diesel (Mar 9, 2013)

gsdsar is right
try very fine ground food 
a puppy kibble would have all the vitamins in it
your ground meat may work but make it puree

then add the water and powdered milk or puppy formula
use a baby bottle and cross cut nurser but hold it level to puppy
puppy on it's stomach and chest
don't put puppy on it's back!

if it'll lap that's best but if not try to get bottle and cross cut nipple
made for human infants


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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I just got on. 

From what I have read, goats milk is closer to dog's milk in consistency. Cows milk can cause pups to have diarrhea, which can actually be fatal to youngsters as they dehydrate very fast. 

There is a formula for goats milk and honey, etc, for pups. The organic beef is good, actually for the puppy. And yes, we would start offering solid food at this point. Usually, kibble. I mix it with hot water and then let the water/kibble get to luke-warm before putting it down for the puppies. They do not generally need a bottle at this point, because the learn quickly how to lap up the mixture.

However, I have mine in with their dam, and they get most of their milk from her. So I would definitely mix whatever beef, etc, either with canine milk replacer, or goats milk, and I would heat it, and then mix it with the food and put it down for the puppy. For a 3 week old puppy I would just make a small dish of water available at all times. But I would feed them the milk/meat/kibble mixture 6 or more times a day. You can use infant rice cereal instead of kibble with the meat and goats milk or milk replacer. 

Right now, you need to worry about nutrition. Being without the dam at this point is not good for a number of reasons. You are probably going to have to be very careful how you socialize him, because he is not learning canine-manners from his littermates. Also, you might have to deal with bite-inhibition when he gets older -- this is stuff he should learn in his litter, and he is not going to. 

But sometimes, breeders lose the dam and or the rest of the litter and they have to raise a youngster by hand. It is not ideal, but it can be done. He should eat many times a day, and sleep a lot at this point. 

He is beautiful -- just not as developed as most people's pups are when they bring him home, don't worry about that. 

Good luck with him.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

my boy diesel said:


> gsdsar is right
> try very fine ground food
> a puppy kibble would have all the vitamins in it
> your ground meat may work but make it puree
> ...


I bought the bottle now and searching for goats milk or dogs formula.

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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

selzer said:


> I just got on.
> 
> From what I have read, goats milk is closer to dog's milk in consistency. Cows milk can cause pups to have diarrhea, which can actually be fatal to youngsters as they dehydrate very fast.
> 
> ...


I am doing all my best to raise him.
I will do as you say.
But im afraid that the dog would be more aggressive when getting mature for he was raised without his mother and no mates with him.
What do you think ?

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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

MyRex said:


> I am doing all my best to raise him.
> I will do as you say.
> But im afraid that the dog would be more aggressive when getting mature for he was raised without his mother and no mates with him.
> What do you think ?
> ...



Dog reactive maybe. He may not give the right cues to other dogs, and he may not understand their cues to him. Once he is fully vaccinated -- usually around 16 weeks, I would definitely get him used to being around other dogs, hopefully dogs who are stable and well-behaved. 

Aggressive, no. Not necessarily. Bite-inhibition is not aggression. Puppies play and they use their teeth. When dogs play with each other, they use their teeth. Puppies in the litter will yelp, and if that does not work they will refuse to play with a pup that is biting too hard. They teach each other how to bite-nicely in play. Dogs that need extra help in bite-inhibition, are dogs that play with their humans too roughly because they haven't learned not to. They call it the land-shark phase. It has nothing to do with how a dog acts toward strange humans.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

selzer said:


> Dog reactive maybe. He may not give the right cues to other dogs, and he may not understand their cues to him. Once he is fully vaccinated -- usually around 16 weeks, I would definitely get him used to being around other dogs, hopefully dogs who are stable and well-behaved.
> 
> Aggressive, no. Not necessarily. Bite-inhibition is not aggression. Puppies play and they use their teeth. When dogs play with each other, they use their teeth. Puppies in the litter will yelp, and if that does not work they will refuse to play with a pup that is biting too hard. They teach each other how to bite-nicely in play. Dogs that need extra help in bite-inhibition, are dogs that play with their humans too roughly because they haven't learned not to. They call it the land-shark phase. It has nothing to do with how a dog acts toward strange humans.


Many many thanks for your explanations Selzer.
If i need something i will contact you if you don't mind.

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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I don't mind, I will help if I can. But there are others here that may have more experience raising singletons than me, and sometimes it is best to get a number of ideas. You can then weigh them, and choose between them what seems the best advice for your situation. 

My dogs tend to not be very bitey -- not the typical landsharks that there are so many posts about. So the threads about how to teach bite-inhibition will be much better than anything I could offer.

Good luck with our puppy.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

selzer said:


> I don't mind, I will help if I can. But there are others here that may have more experience raising singletons than me, and sometimes it is best to get a number of ideas. You can then weigh them, and choose between them what seems the best advice for your situation.
> 
> My dogs tend to not be very bitey -- not the typical landsharks that there are so many posts about. So the threads about how to teach bite-inhibition will be much better than anything I could offer.
> 
> Good luck with our puppy.


When he gets old enough i'm sure he will bite cause now he always tries to bite a little cat i have. 
I for sure will accept your kind offer.

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## selzer (May 7, 2005)

I think you should take the puppy to the vet. Don't set it down on the floor, because it cannot possibly be safe from disease, but this puppy will need to be wormed. And should be wormed every two weeks until it is about 9-10 weeks old, then once a month. 

The pup has a rough start, being taken away from the litter and dam early. You really do not want him to be fighting worms as well. Worms are typical in puppies. The breeder ought to start a worming program right about how old your pup is. So by the time buyers get the pup at 8-10 weeks, they never see them, and when the pup gets its shots, the vet will just worm them. 

You do not want to wait until this puppy is 8 weeks old to deal with this.


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## Oisin's Aoire (Jun 17, 2013)

We rescued a dog from a bunch of guys that were kicking her around , and she turned out to be pregnant . She had the pups but rejected them and killed/tried to eat two of them. The remaining two were hand raised by us . They fit in your hand and could not walk yet. They were maybe 2 weeks old . We got formula from the vet ..we had to feed them around the clock and wipe them with warm wet cotton balls to get them to go to the bathroom. One did not thrive , he stopped eating and the veet had us feeding him through a tube we thread down his nose them into his stomach. He did not make it  But the last one did ..we named her Lucky.

They were MUCH less developed than your pup, and I do not remember a lot about the details of care ( it was 25 years ago) ..but I wanted to tell you that Lucky turned out to be a brilliant little well behaved dog that was loved by everyone , human and dogs alike. She lived to be 15 , and was always healthy . I just wanted to give you some encouragement


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

selzer said:


> I think you should take the puppy to the vet. Don't set it down on the floor, because it cannot possibly be safe from disease, but this puppy will need to be wormed. And should be wormed every two weeks until it is about 9-10 weeks old, then once a month.
> 
> The pup has a rough start, being taken away from the litter and dam early. You really do not want him to be fighting worms as well. Worms are typical in puppies. The breeder ought to start a worming program right about how old your pup is. So by the time buyers get the pup at 8-10 weeks, they never see them, and when the pup gets its shots, the vet will just worm them.
> 
> You do not want to wait until this puppy is 8 weeks old to deal with this.


Yeah i contacted a vet and soon will come to take care of the puppy.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

Oisin's Aoire said:


> We rescued a dog from a bunch of guys that were kicking her around , and she turned out to be pregnant . She had the pups but rejected them and killed/tried to eat two of them. The remaining two were hand raised by us . They fit in your hand and could not walk yet. They were maybe 2 weeks old . We got formula from the vet ..we had to feed them around the clock and wipe them with warm wet cotton balls to get them to go to the bathroom. One did not thrive , he stopped eating and the veet had us feeding him through a tube we thread down his nose them into his stomach. He did not make it  But the last one did ..we named her Lucky.
> 
> They were MUCH less developed than your pup, and I do not remember a lot about the details of care ( it was 25 years ago) ..but I wanted to tell you that Lucky turned out to be a brilliant little well behaved dog that was loved by everyone , human and dogs alike. She lived to be 15 , and was always healthy . I just wanted to give you some encouragement


Haha really nice story.
Thank you very much  i appreciate your encouragement really!
My dog is doing very well and growing fast too.

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## Maximilian (Dec 22, 2013)

MyRex,

You've not said why you can't bring the puppy back to his dam and litter, but that would be the very best thing you could do for him for the next 4 weeks. It's important for the litter mates to socialize each other at this age. You said he was a gift so it doesn't sound like a hardship situation. If you can, do what's best for the dog and bring him back home in a month. Just my opinion and I could be wrong.


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## MyRex (Feb 9, 2014)

Maximilian said:


> MyRex,
> 
> You've not said why you can't bring the puppy back to his dam and litter, but that would be the very best thing you could do for him for the next 4 weeks. It's important for the litter mates to socialize each other at this age. You said he was a gift so it doesn't sound like a hardship situation. If you can, do what's best for the dog and bring him back home in a month. Just my opinion and I could be wrong.


You are right.

My uncle said that the mother tried to eat the puppies, that encourages me to not try hard getting him back even 4 weeks.
And about socializing the puppy i am contacting my friend to bring his puppy and let him meet mine, hopefully that would be helpful.

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