# What to look for when I meet the puppies?



## emt1581 (Sep 5, 2008)

I'm going to my breeder this weekend to pick my GSD puppy. What should I look for in terms of greeting, perkiness, attention, and overall temperment...or is one just as good as another?

Thanks!

-Emt1581


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## DianaM (Jan 5, 2006)

Really, the breeder should be the one picking the puppy for you as the breeder should know the parents and the lines inside out, know what the breeding should produce, should know each puppy's personality inside and out up to this age and also should know with reasonable certainty which pup would be a good match for you based on an extensive interview from you. If the breeder is just telling you to come on by and pick a puppy willy-nilly, you could be picking a shy pup without knowing or end up picking a puppy that would be more suitable for anything BUT your needs. A good, responsible breeder typically does not allow puppy buyers to pick out pups on their own unless two or more would each be great choices, then the buyer may pick from that set. It's the best way to assure a very well matched owner-dog relationship.

There are a few puppy tests out there, but you're only getting a brief snapshot and you could be testing them at the wrong time. Say the Volhard test, for example, where a puppy that's a one or a two is more suited towards working households and a three or four is better for companionship. You come and do your test and find a great puppy that scores evenly threes and fours, take the pup home, and then you end up with a drivey monster that's absolutely NOT happy unless it's on the move and working and it's always testing for ****** in the hierarchy to attempt to be the boss. What happened? It's possible you tested the litter after they played like crazy, especially your puppy, and were about to pass out for naps but instead got tested. A breeder who does the picking will know that this puppy will be better off placed in a sport/competition/work home and will make sure you get the puppy that's most balanced for regular home pet life.

EDIT: We can't really tell you what to look for without knowing what YOU want in a puppy. I want an energetic (but with a GOOD "off button"), drivey, bitey, pushy, ridiculously intelligent dog that will probably wreak havoc in the hands of average owners so what I look for in a dog may be different than what you want. But what I would first make sure of is that BOTH parents possess passing hip clearances at minimum (not just vet-ok'd; look for OFA or equivalent), elbows would be a big bonus, other health clearances, some sort of proof that the parents' temperament are both ideal (working titles, temperament tests, etc), and make sure that BOTH parents are dogs you'd like to own. The stud may likely not be on site so make sure you read up on what kind of dog he is and ensure you love the bitch. If the bitch leaves something to be desired, don't buy a puppy out of that bitch.


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## emt1581 (Sep 5, 2008)

Thanks for the info...I'll have my choice between two or three males...if that helps. 

She knows what we want...a family dog that has great temperment.

This won't be for show.

Thanks!

-Emt1581


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## Crookedcreekranch (May 27, 2008)

This is a recent copy of an email I sent out to my current litters buyers as they wondered how I select the puppy for them.
We also have an application process we use before accepting the buyer which describes what puppy will suit them best. Of course there are numerous emails and conversations along the way to best match buyer to puppy. Some folks were taken aback initially when I said I would pick the puppy for them but once they understood they were fine and more than confident I would do right by them and by my puppy.

Young Puppy Temperament Assessment
Much more important than puppy temperament testing is the socialization, education and environment that the owner should provide. However, some folks recommend assessing a puppy's sensitivity to various stimuli, using techniques such as those that follow, to get a general idea of a puppy's temperament.
* Clap your hands: does the puppy look at you? Does he approach readily, in a friendly manner? These are good signs of sociability.
* Make eye contact: does the puppy engage in eye contact? This is a good indicator of a confidence pup. In contrast, be concerned about a pup who will not look at you. This could reflect a temperament problem or a vision disability.
* Call to the puppy: a puppy who ignores attempts to get his attention may have a hearing or temperament problem. Disinterest in interacting with people can indicate a disease as well.
* Praise the dog: it's good if the puppy responds to verbal praise with some welcoming behavior, such as wagging his tail.
* Follow me: after playing with the pup for awhile, walk or jog away. If he tries to follow, that's a positive sign. Not following indicates the pup has an independent personality.
* Pet the pup: does he respond in a friendly or accepting manner? Or does he try to dominate you by nipping, growling or jumping at you? Does he reflect independence by trying to escape?
* Play with a toy: roll a safe dog toy, such as a ball, or a crumpled paper ball near the pup. But don't toss the toy at the pup. See if the dog will follow it. Encourage the pup to fetch the toy and to bring it back to you. A dominant-natured pup will fetch the ball, take it away, and resist letting you take it. An independent pup may show no interest in the toy; however, this could also indicate an ill puppy. A submissive pup may be a little fearful of the toy. A highly social pup will bring the toy back to you on his own. Normal behavior would involve the pup getting the toy, chewing on it, but allowing you to take it away. Willingness to retrieve can be an indicator of a dog's interest in training exercises.
* Rollover test: gently take the puppy and roll him onto his back. Gently hold him in place with one hand on his chest for 15 seconds. A dominant or independent pup will tend to resist the whole time. He might yip or try to nip you. A submissive pup does not struggle at all, and may try to lick you in deference. Most puppies will resist for a few seconds and then contentedly accept your handling.
Note: this rollover test is not an alpha roll. Never perform an alpha roll on any dog of any age. It's an old technique told to prove dominion, but eventually found to hamper the human/canine bond in addition to leading to many bite cases.
* Picking up the puppy: lift gently by interlacing your fingers palms up beneath his tummy. Hold him in this elevated position for 30 seconds. Does he struggle actively for release, for a prolonged period, signaling dominance or independence? Or does he quickly acquiesce? How quickly he accepts and relaxes can indicate whether he's relatively submissive or closer to a typical pup. A submissive pup will attempt to lick in deference to your control.
* Touch a paw, then press between the pads gently. The responses you get and how quickly you get them can reflect a pup's tendency towards submission, dominance, independence, or a more normal temperament.
* Noise test: make a sudden noise. See if the pup responds with curious interest, fear, barking, aggression, or ignores it.
* For a detailed puppy evaluation program see the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test link below. This approach assesses social attraction and social dominance, retrieving, following, restraint, elevation (being lifted), touch sensitivity, sound sensitivity and stability, and ranks pups in degrees as socially attracted, adaptive, submissive, dominant and independent.
Notes about puppy handling and evaluation:
* Make sure nothing fearful or negative happens during any puppy evaluation or handling sessions.
* Responsiveness indicates that the puppy is probably pretty adaptive and has great ability to bond. A pup who seems very nervous or fearful may not be a good choice for a home with children or with a lot of activity. However, he may respond very well to gentle and consistent training suited to his personality. A dog who tends to be aloof even when faced with stimuli may be of an independent temperament, and might be stubborn when it comes time for training, but that's not always the case. Again, keep in mind that these are generalizations, and puppy adopter will be in the key position to shape the pup's behavior.
* Many behavior experts do not place great emphasis on testing of young puppies; however, some agree that highly aggressive pups often turn out to be dominant and aggressive adults. If you're checking out dogs in a litter, you may want to engage the help of a canine behaviorist.
* It is important to handle puppies frequently and every day. Always handle them gently and speak in a calm, happy manner. Your goals are to teach them to accept being handled, that no harm will come from handling, that it's OK to be examined (this paves the way for acceptance of everything from grooming to vet visits), and to trust you as a benevolent leader. Puppy kindergarten classes are also highly recommended to help provide essential socialization opportunities.
Some of you have wondered how we match puppies to buyers. One of the tests we use is this:
http://www.workingdogs.com/testing_volhard.htm
Follow this link above .
We know that pups have different days, different times of day, hungry, tired, etc. and don't rely soley on one test one day. We spend countless hours playing, observing, and socializing and have a really good idea of how that puppy will be.
We use our application to help us determine what you are looking for and what type of puppy is going to fit best in your home. Each one of the 10 people who are buying have unique situations and we welcome you to share any further information with us to help determine the best puppy for you.
Typically it comes down to 2-3 pups that would fit and we let you make the final decision. We want the best for our puppies and we know you want the best for your home as well.
If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to call or email.

The initial questions/tests should help you ( the OP) best select when you visit.


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## emt1581 (Sep 5, 2008)

> Originally Posted By: Crooked Creek This is a recent copy of an email I sent out to my current litters buyers as they wondered how I select the puppy for them.
> We also have an application process we use before accepting the buyer which describes what puppy will suit them best. Of course there are numerous emails and conversations along the way to best match buyer to puppy. Some folks were taken aback initially when I said I would pick the puppy for them but once they understood they were fine and more than confident I would do right by them and by my puppy.
> 
> Young Puppy Temperament Assessment
> ...



PERFECT!!! THANK YOU!!!!










-Emt1581


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## DianaM (Jan 5, 2006)

If she's picked out a couple pups that she feels any would be good (and "family dog with great temperament" is REALLY broad), then spend time with the puppies when they haven't had the energy burnt out of them, both as a whole litter and individually. Ignore the colors as much as possible and judge them on their behavior. Again, your criteria is very broad and that can mean anything from a dog with low energy that likes to relax up to a dog that enjoys jogging every morning and hiking on the weekends to everything in between, to less, to more. 

Again, make sure the parents have great temperament! You can do a lot with nurture but you'll always be limited by nature. Oh, and when you go get your pup, POST PICS!


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## Castlemaid (Jun 29, 2006)

I think you should find another breeder! 

A good, ethical, responsible breeder will not allow people to pick their own pups, but will pic for them. Their first and foremost concern should be that the pup and new owner are a good match, and will live up to the new owners needs, wants and expectations. The breeder will have had 8 weeks of observing and getting to know each individual pup, and should know their temperament, persnoality, energy level, dominance level, strenghts and weaknesses intimately. After interviewing the prospective buyer in depth and talking to references, a good breeder should be well positioned to make a good match.

Puppies are not all the same. They will have a range of temperaments. There will be the Alpha who bullies and beats up on everyone, there will be middle-of the road pups, there will be very people friendly, easy-going pups, and independent pups who do not like to be handled, and omega pups who will submit to everyone and everything and never develop much self-confidence. 

It would be difficult to be able to assess the whole litter in just one visit. The friendly outgoing pup that would make a good match might have an off day when you are there, and my hang back shy-ly. the Alpha bruiser may be tired from a long day of beating up on litter-mates and may seem calm and easy-going. The shy Omega may find that you smell interesting and may come out to investigate you, leading you to think that this is the pup for you.
So the best way to pick a pup is to find a breeder that has the knowledge and experience to evalutate pups and get to know new owners and pick for them. 

What pup will be the right pup for you will also depend on your plans and goals for this dog. Will it be just a couch-warmer house companion? An Active pet for running and hiking? An obedience/rally/agility prospect? Again, the breeder would be in the best position to make these evaluations, assuming that they [know] what it takes for a dog to do reasonably well in these endeavors, and breed for the qualities required for such activities. If they don't, they are just producing pups as pets to make money, and only producing puppies, as bona-fide breeders have a breeding program of exactly what they are breeding for, and have a long term plan to try and achieve their goals.

Having said all this, I know that the pup you choose will be loved and cherished and will be the best puppy in the world (they all are!). I would go for a middle of the road pup, for pet companion, and a more outgoing, pushy pup if your goals are formal activities.


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## SunCzarina (Nov 24, 2000)

What Crooked creek said...

My breeder selected 2 pups out of the litter that she thought were the personality I was looking for. She also let us see and play with the other pups - except for the first pick pup, never met him, I was second pick.

Since we were second pick, the pups were tired from meeting the first pick people. The pup I ended up picking was sleepy but he came right out, greeted us and played with my children and I. We did the PAT, except for the hill part.

Otto was friendly, alert and curious but not rambunctious. Not mouthy like the other pup the breeder thought was the right personality.

When he went back in the xpen so we could meet his brothers, he laid down and took a little nap. When I wanted to see him again, he was ready to go. 

What I would avoid is the pup that runs at you and jumps in your lap ready to play. Go for the character who takes his time, checks you out and comes over calmly. I had the run and jump character, couldn't wear that dog out. Also had Mr Cool who took his time coming over, Mr Cool was a much easier dog to live with!


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## VectorSketcher (Jul 20, 2008)

When we went to pick out our new pup, the breeders actually had one in mind for us just through our phone conversation, while they let us look at the other pups they actually had us spend time with just the one they thought would be good for us, and they were right, Rogue is perfect for us!


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## scannergirl (Feb 17, 2008)

The pup my breeder chose for me was not the one I came home with. She picked a male who was quiet, like I told her I wanted. But his quiet actually looked to me more like shy. I could not win him over. Meanwhile this female kept calmly walking over


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## scannergirl (Feb 17, 2008)

> Originally Posted By: LucinaThe pup my breeder chose for me was not the one I came home with. She picked a male who was quiet, like I told her I wanted. But his quiet actually looked to me more like shy. I could not win him over. Meanwhile this female kept calmly walking over and sitting on my foot. Not once or twice, but several times. I had really wanted a female for no other reason than I seem to get along better with female animals- but that's all I ever have had. She really seemed to want to come home with me, so I took her. Love her to pieces.
> She is a much lower energy dog which is perfect for me. But she also is very drivey, which requires Schutzhund training (at least that's the outlet I've chosen. I think she needs that like food or vet care)
> So there's more to the equation than I realized when I got her.


That was the whole post. For some reason only a bit of it got posted.


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