# Aroual/Impulse Control



## LuvourGSDs

Hi all, It's been awhile since I've been here. I wondered if anyone has been in my shoes cause I feel I'm not alone. We know agility amps our dogs but seeking suggestions on teaching good impulse control in this setting, esp when our dogs are asked to work among others in a class setting. Keeping their focus & control on you, no whining, barking, etc. Sure you get good responses at home but our dogs lose it at class. 

In my years of owning GSDs, I find you're always hit with something. You try your best but at times feel lost & like you have no control. I currently now have an 9 month old puppy with high drive & losing his focus in a agility class but fairly good in obed class. He's a whiner. 8/ The more he amps, the more he whines & I'm seeking ways to deal with this? 8/////

I practice constantly impulse control at home. If he's amped to get out of his crate, loading in & out of car, etc with whines, I wait him out to release. I find this has become a hard one in a agility setting, even getting in & out of class with other dogs excitement. Mainly whining but will on occasion blurt out a bark. I know I need the control & focus, but overwhelmed at the moment. 8/ 

He's only my 2nd GSD training as a pup to do show type stuff. 

So, while I know young, I'm hoping to get him where he can be balanced & not so jacked all the time if possible. 

Thanks for any suggestions, help, links, ect!

PS. Crating is not always an option & imo, they need to learn control working & watching others. It's been a real hard one for me with my older girl too! 

Thank ya......


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## dogma13

What do you think about going to a class just to sit on the sidelines and observe?Do whatever it takes to get your dog to relax for a few minutes,then a short walk outside,back ringside to relax,repeat.


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## LuvourGSDs

I started this with him some before putting him in agility class. He was great, laid right out on the course, clicked & treated for watching me, not 1 whine from him. It seems we hit this age thing maybe? Maybe the arousal of all dogs moving in class, their energy? We're into only class 4 of his own classes & found this super amps him. 8(
Even getting into the building. Trying to work his attention, etc but....... that's why I decided to post. 8/ Thanks


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## gaia_bear

I have the same problem but in a different venue. 

IF he doesn't give me what I'm asking I've put him back in the car before and tried again. It's been a long long battle with lots and lots of patience but it's paying off. 

He's learned he doesn't get to work until he's quiet.


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## dogma13

Well hopefully someone will chime in with a solution that worked for them.None of my dogs are super high drive so I'm no help at all


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## LuvourGSDs

Yeah, in agility class I don't have that option to put him away. I found also in obed class when in a down beside me & he would whine, a few times I popped & released with a correction sayin, no quite (he knows speak & quiet difference) but found he would whine & as I looked down to correct, he would be looking up so I now feel this was giving him attention. 8/ So been mixed on correcting vs ignoring in obed class? 

With agility he so amped that I try to keep him engaged with moving, focus work, play, tricks, but he still whines, gets a tad better as class goes on but does. I totally feel like a big class distraction plus an ass of an out out control GSD. 8/ 

You like the drive but ya *need* that balance!


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## TwoBigEars

I've been there! Still sort of there! 

For some dogs, just laying there watching might work. For others, this will just make it worse as they get more and more frustrated watching the other dogs. With a dog that tends to over-arouse in the agility environment, you also don't want to teach them to stare at other dogs doing agility.

Regarding crating not being an option, it really needs to be an option. Dogs need downtime to relax and decompress, rather than always being "on" during the whole class. With a dog like this (and I have one) it is must easier to manage if you can do your turn, then put the dog back in his crate to relax. Preferably the crate will be covered will be covered, or in a car or quiet room away from the action.

Second option would be bringing a small bed or mat for the dog to lay on, but this won't allow their mind to really have a break as much as a crate.

Also working on the dog's entrance behavior. i.e. he needs to be calm and not pulling to get into the training space. This can be frustrating and take a long time, but once it starts to click it will become much easier as the dog knows the expectation. You can also break it up into accepting small steps of walking quietly, bust out the tug and tug him the rest of the way in there. Same thing on the way to starting an exercise. No pulling or barking to the startline. And this is where a crate really helps again, because if the pulling/barking is just out of control, sorry dog you lost your turn, back in the crate. This really helped my crazy guy.

You'll also need your instructor on board with this. As well as understanding that for a while, you might be paying for agility classes but not getting the opportunity to actually do much agility if you're not getting the calm behavior that you want. I had to do that for a while too. Sucks to feel like wasting money like that, but it does pay off in the long run.

Sorry for the long response, but that is really what it takes with this issue. No quick fix, just lots of patience and consistency that being a nutcase does not earn the opportunity to do agility.

Your other option is to be like Silvia Trkman and not care at all and just let the dog be a nutcase. Haha.


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## TwoBigEars

Another thing since you're doing obedience-

With my crazy nutcase we took a break from agility and went to competition obedience for a while. This was actually a great thing and has increased his control. Lots of work with focus, control, and eye contact for what he wants. These behaviors also need to be worked under arousal, teaching the dog how to think while super-aroused. Easy enough for us to practice since all it really takes to send him through the roof is a toy. He can now do a focused heel into an agility space, which was one of my goals.

I will say that Shade Whitesel's drives & control online classes at Fenzi Academy were a huge part of this. She does a lot of work with crazy-type GSDs and I got more good out of her than anybody else.


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## LuvourGSDs

Hey there, thank you & NO problem with your reply, I would rather a long reply, than NO reply! 8)

Good points! He is not allowed to pull me! I just would like the whining & excitement under control, you feel overwhelmed with an unruly dog. 8/ I thought about no agility for him but also feel, how's he to learn if I do not do with him? 8/


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## LuvourGSDs

Btw, at Fenzi what course did you take & did you do, bronze, silver, or gold? Since he's 9 months, was unsure which course to try if I do. Control with the crazy canine sounds fitting. 8/


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## BoTaBe

Oh yes, I know this problem too!
Our situation was quite similar to yours - took her to the agility hall when she was younger and she was fine watching the other dogs. But as soon as she started training it all went downhill from there...

We started training when she was about 8 months old (in a group with two other dogs).
She was fine when it was her turn, but she had problems watching the other dogs work. It started with whining but she went to barking pretty soon. 

That's when I took a bottle of water with me for the next few trainings and every time she "went crazy" she got a shower. It really impressed her - she tried again for two or three times, got a shower each time and that was it.
She's still pretty amped watching the other dogs in her group or at trials, but at least she's not barking anymore. 
I have to add that she has a ball to chew one while the other dogs run, so she has an alternative to the barking (she had one before the waterbottle thing as well, but didn't take it because she'd rather bark ).

But it's ok the way she behaves now. She can be amped and excited watching other dogs on the course, but she watches quietly (sometimes with some whining, but I'm fine with that) while chewing the toy. I can live with that! ;o)


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## WIBackpacker

I sympathize. Ohhhh how I sympathize! We're going through this with agility and herding right now, she's almost 8 months old.

We've been intentionally getting to our classes/lessons 45 minutes early so we can practice entrance behavior. If she makes crazy anticipation noises, we go back into the car and try again. Like your dog, she was totally silent until a few lessons in, now she loves both activities SO MUCH her excitement is intense. When she is actually running a course, or working sheep, she's silent. Not a peep. It's the waiting that gets us.

Besides entrance practice (over - and over), she has to lie down while other dogs are running. If she's sitting or standing, she has a harder time staying composed. We also practice the "watch me" eye contact command, with increasing difficulty.... Asking her to watch my eyes while I swing her "crack ball" (on a rope) around, or maintain eye contact while I bob up and down, etc. We probably look odd to spectators, but it helps her focus on me and not worry about the other dog in her beloved tunnel. All of the other dogs/breeds in our current agility class are lower drive, more mellow individuals that let their attention wander/snoop around for food when they're waiting (instead of quivering with excitement). At herding, where there are generally higher drive, focused, intense workers, lots of people crate out of sight in their vehicles until it's time for their turn. I don't want my dog to be the only screamer.... So, we do our weird little dance moves at agility, and get there plenty early. 

I also keep reminding myself that she's still a puppy, she loves (LOVES!) doing these things, and we have time to phase out the anticipatory whistles.


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## mspiker03

WIBackpacker said:


> I sympathize. Ohhhh how I sympathize! We're going through this with agility and herding right now, she's almost 8 months old.
> 
> We've been intentionally getting to our classes/lessons 45 minutes early so we can practice entrance behavior. If she makes crazy anticipation noises, we go back into the car and try again. Like your dog, she was totally silent until a few lessons in, now she loves both activities SO MUCH her excitement is intense. When she is actually running a course, or working sheep, she's silent. Not a peep. It's the waiting that gets us.
> 
> Besides entrance practice (over - and over), she has to lie down while other dogs are running. If she's sitting or standing, she has a harder time staying composed. We also practice the "watch me" eye contact command, with increasing difficulty.... Asking her to watch my eyes while I swing her "crack ball" (on a rope) around, or maintain eye contact while I bob up and down, etc. We probably look odd to spectators, but it helps her focus on me and not worry about the other dog in her beloved tunnel. All of the other dogs/breeds in our current agility class are lower drive, more mellow individuals that let their attention wander/snoop around for food when they're waiting (instead of quivering with excitement). At herding, where there are generally higher drive, focused, intense workers, lots of people crate out of sight in their vehicles until it's time for their turn. I don't want my dog to be the only screamer.... So, we do our weird little dance moves at agility, and get there plenty early.
> 
> I also keep reminding myself that she's still a puppy, she loves (LOVES!) doing these things, and we have time to phase out the anticipatory whistles.



We used the "truck" method with Paisley as well (also for herding). In fact, we still use that method when someone decides herding is a single dog vs a "team" sport 

We practiced many times having her platz at the gate before going in. We did obedience in an empty arena. We did all that with stock in the arena. I also used to take her out for a quick game of fetch at the facility before even trying to get near the arena to drain the surface energy off.


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## TwoBigEars

LuvourGSDs said:


> Btw, at Fenzi what course did you take & did you do, bronze, silver, or gold? Since he's 9 months, was unsure which course to try if I do. Control with the crazy canine sounds fitting. 8/


I did Shade's fundamentals courses, Drives and Control 1 and Drives and Control 2. I've only done Bronze level since I'm okay learning on my own. It would definitely be valuable to do Gold level and get feedback, especially if you don't want to spend the time wading through all the other posts to find advice that might apply to your dog. I just didn't want to pay that much, haha. And I don't think Silver is worth paying for since you don't get feedback on your own dog, and there are lurker groups on Facebook where you can share videos and have other students try to help.

There is also an Impulse Control for Agility Dogs class by Nancy Gagliardi but I haven't taken that one yet. You can always email the instructors to see if they think their class would help you or recommend a different one.

Arousal and agility can be super tough to balance. Because we do want them aroused and excited while doing agility! It can also be tough to battle because we are creating a conditioned emotional response to agility. Essentially the dogs are being classically conditioned to be excited and aroused around agility things. And with classical conditioning, the dog's response is rather involuntary and harder to change. Especially if we actually want them excited in the first place.

Just some brief blah blah about the science of arousal and overexcitement around agility.

For now I think you could just work on being very consistent that quiet = play, whining/barking = back to the crate or waiting area or whatever. Lots of work on focus and eye contact for lots of rewards.

Try to find other areas where you can practice this concept. Like with my dog, swimming gets him to that same over-aroused squealy whiny state so it's just another opportunity to practice quiet and control = swim, being crazy = no swim. Things like that.


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## LuvourGSDs

Thanks for all your replies! I know it's going to take time, patience, & being consistent. A part of me says, take the lead, correct, & make him listen & part of me says, set him up for success. It's easier to get to class early but leaving is hard, tight quarters & people/dogs coming (we're the first class) in. I really work his impulse control all the time. Hoping it's a hurdle we can overcome & why I was reaching out for suggestions. The water bottle could be an option but hmmmm, hoping he will get it for being rewarded for the calm in class. Not sure but I guess I'll have to figure out a plan about the whining during class if I chose to keep him in one. 8/

I thank you again......


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## Chip18

You trained him how to turn it on, so now you need to train how to dial it down. 

Fearful, Anxious or Flat Crazy "The Place CommanD - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums


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## SuperG

gaia_bear said:


> He's learned he doesn't get to work until he's quiet.



As in quiet "quiet"....none of that whiny high pitched whistling kind of sound..... but never loud. Kind of like a " I'm trying my best to contain myself but I'm dying here wanting to get into the action" sound?


SuperG


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## gaia_bear

SuperG said:


> As in quiet "quiet"....none of that whiny high pitched whistling kind of sound..... but never loud. Kind of like a " I'm trying my best to contain myself but I'm dying here wanting to get into the action" sound?
> 
> 
> SuperG


Yeah, that quiet...I can't tolerate any of it because I have a give me an inch and take a mile dog. So we don't allow any leaking at all, it's been a battle but we're finally making strides.


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## LuvourGSDs

Well.......hmmmm, not sure we will get that quiet but I sure wish he would! 8/ I tried the squirt bottle on him this week. It seemed to work some. Was definitely better than the week before. He amps but I find working him at home he whines slightly when trying to figure something out, he tries, tries, & well some whines. 8/


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## wildo

LuvourGSDs said:


> Well.......hmmmm, not sure we will get that quiet but I sure wish he would! 8/ I tried the squirt bottle on him this week. It seemed to work some. Was definitely better than the week before. He amps but I find working him at home he whines slightly when trying to figure something out, he tries, tries, & well some whines. 8/


I can't remember if I commented on this thread or not. To be honest, I don't really have any meaningful suggestions for you on this. I'm sure it's really challenging and perhaps even frustrating. I can imagine the looks you get at trial from all the little dog people.

I guess more than anything I just wanted to put it out there that I think it's kind of a shame how "quiet" agility trials are. I've taken a break from agility for about a year now and pursued other dog sports. What I find is that in the vast majority of dog sports, dogs are allowed to be... dogs. They amp up. They get excited for the game. They bark. They bark loudly. That's just how it is. 

Certainly I agree that getting over aroused on the course is counter productive and needs addressed via training. But high arousal off the field- I have to say- it bothers me WAY less now-a-days having competed in plenty of other sports.


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## Cassidy's Mom

wildo said:


> What I find is that in the vast majority of dog sports, dogs are allowed to be... dogs. They amp up. They get excited for the game. They bark. They bark loudly. That's just how it is.


Like flyball? :wild:

Why isn't using a crate an option?


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## wildo

Cassidy's Mom said:


> Like flyball? :wild:


Yep! Or disc dog. Or lure coursing. Or dock jumping. Or barn hunt. Ok- that last one is just MY crazy obnoxious dog. I get all the looks from the terrier folks.


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## LuvourGSDs

Thanks for your input Wildo! 

It's just his state of mind wants to go, go, go, do, do, do but in a whining arousal state working him & just wanting to gain his brain & I guess more control to work in bit of a calmer state. It's the looks thus far in a class setting I get for the whines/over arousal. Plus trying to get in & out of class in this state. I will continue obed classes with him, he also does this coming & going there but when working fairly good & whines mainly in down time. I've tried the squirt bottle last week & this did help a bit. 

His crate whining at home can be a pain at times & was up in the air to use at class. He does whine in it too. I've tried my best to ignore & only reward for calm. As in getting out, eating, etc. At times I do get at him sayin quiet if he's real bad. Hate doing this cause freaks out my softer GSD. I've tried to just ignore tho but at times he gets bad with it. 8////

Up in the air about nipping it in the butt & route to take? 8/ His focus can be awesome & he is super smart. 

Instructor recommend Brenda Aloff. Would love to try but starts tomorrow at midnight, little research on her, & yes, a costly program. 8(

Appreciate all suggestions you all have gave!


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## wildo

I've only ever heard very good things about Brenda Aloff. Again, my personal opinion is that as along as I have focus & control in the ring, I don't really care much about what happens outside the ring. Jinks is *OVER* aroused while waiting in the blind for Barn Hunt. He's loud, barky, whiny, over the top. He drags me into the ring. But when we enter the ring and I tell him to sit to be released, he happily complies and waits for release. He works in a high state of arousal, but not over aroused. He listens to my commands and works efficiently. So while he's absolutely, completely over aroused outside the ring, his actual ring time is not over the top. It's exactly where I like it- very high arousal with good control and focus. So for me, I learn to not care about the whining and craziness outside the ring. Sure- not possible for everyone- we all have our priorities!

Now if he were over aroused in the ring- like I said- we'd be working in it for sure! I've never taken a Brenda Aloff class, but I've heard very good things. I have a couple of her books, which I've skimmed most of them.


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## TwoBigEars

Those whiny GSD boys! I swear the boys are just whiny in general and it's one reason I'm sticking with girls for a while! :0

Interestingly Bad Dog Agility had a recent podcast about dealing with over-arousal in agility: Episode 121: Dealing with Over-Arousal in Dog Agility

It's probably one I'd need to listen to again, but basically their advice was to teach the dog how to work in an aroused state rather than fighting it. Which is the advice you'll see in some places and it's taken me a while to see the value in it. I believe this is similar or at least related to the concept of "capping" that protection sports people talk about.

I do agree with the advice of teaching the dog to work while over-aroused and learn to deal with it, though admittedly I've not really practiced it yet as my over-aroused nutcase is no longer doing agility anyway (physical reasons). Though we do have similar issues in obedience, as all it takes is a toy for him to get whiny and stupid. And I apply the same process of whine = toy goes away (back in the bag, pocket, whatever), quiet = dog gets toy. And anywhere we can in everyday life, whining = you don't get what you want, quiet does.


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## wildo

Off topic completely, but the girls can be just as whiny!!!! Check out Pimg in the background from last night... :surrender:


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## LuvourGSDs

Agreed...... my girl amps but at watching other dogs run, not losing it while working!

Wildo, any of Susan G. classes you feel may help? I like his drive & focus but really want him to work in a calm state. 8/

I may start next class that is at a diff place taking a crate & maybe if too jacked, put in crate? We all work out in a group type setting. I lost on gaining his focus on too crazy, exciting situations & want to gain complete control on that. I really hate them too jacked entering a ring to do anything as I feel it will be a hot mess in that case!

With my current girl, we wait outside view area & enter really when dog about done on course ahead of us. 

Thanks again......


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## TwoBigEars

LuvourGSDs said:


> I really hate them too jacked entering a ring to do anything as I feel it will be a hot mess in that case!


Agreed! I know some people don't mind but for me I don't like my dog being a crazy lunatic or whining/barking while waiting ringside for his turn. It's taken a lot of work establishing that eye contact, focus, and control get the dog what he wants. He whines or barks, he gets moved farther away from what he wants. We had to waste some classes just going back and forth from his crate towards the startline, but it really took 100% consistency that he had to walk politely and not bark to get to that startline and do agility. Fortunately he is also very obsessed with toys, so I would mark and reward with his toy for the eye contact or a control behavior (he now offers a down when he wants something, which is nice) instead of staring and barking at other dogs doing agility.

I still think some of the Fenzi classes would be helpful, especially Shade's toy class or the drives and control classes. They don't seem directly related to the whiny arousal and impulse issues, but they really are and have helped my guy tremendously. Cheaper than Susan Garrett too!

(and yes girl dogs can be whiny too )


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## wildo

LuvourGSDs said:


> Wildo, any of Susan G. classes you feel may help? I like his drive & focus but really want him to work in a calm state. 8/


Actually, no. I'd very highly recommend a seminar from Ron Watson at Pawsitive Vybe. Their "Drive Train" seminar is all about building drive, capping drive, and everything in between. For low dogs he shows methods for amping them up, and for high dogs he shows methods for calming them down. I think it would be well worth your time. I've become a BIG fan of Ron over the last year or so, even a friend of his. I very much believe he's the "Susan Garrett" of the disc dog world. He has an exceptional eye for dogs and is quite keen on these sorts of things.


Camps & Seminars by Pawsitive Vybe

Pretty much all of his material is FREE on his website. Buying into a class of his is really buying access to him directly as the material is already publicly available. So you might take a look at his website and see if you can find some articles on managing drive and arousal.

Some Thoughts on Teaching in Drive | Pawsitive Vybe


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## wildo

LuvourGSDs said:


> I really hate them too jacked entering a ring to do anything as I feel it will be a hot mess in that case!


... I'm just going to leave this here. 







My point is that, if memory serves, this isn't the first time you've had a thread about this problem. I think this is a long running problem for you, right? I'd like to see video of your dog entering the ring and running the course. It's very possible that the problem is only in your perception... I'd say Wings was pretty dang amped up in that video!! And yet it was a phenomenal run. I have a Shepherd; I'm very aware of the whining. But don't let some whining potentially derail you from an otherwise awesome run and a good time with your dog! Even Susan Garrett gave up on keeping Swagger quiet while running the course.

I also agree with TwoBigEars that some Shade Whitesel classes would likely be very beneficial. Everyone I know who has taken a Shade class has absolutely loved it.


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## LuvourGSDs

I may have but this is more of a major arousal issue! My past post was my female whining watching other dogs work/run not working in a complete state of whining arousal!!!! I feel this is way worse of a problem by far. She can work in a calm state. He at 10 months is working in a whining state period. Tonights 2 classes were both that way, agility & obed! I didn't use the water bottle tonight but thinking that with citronella oil added to it next week. Collar correction is not cutting it! 8/

Thanks, I will look into Rons info. Thanks also for SG advice as I wasn't sure if her programs, puppy peaks, recallers, ect would help. I so would love to do the Brenda Aloff's program or Shade but if I did, wanting to do the ones people have done & had results. 8)

Thanks again!


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## LuvourGSDs

Oh yeah & I even rubbed him down with lavender tonight, lol! 8| Must be these BGSDs I swear cause our rescue that we got as an adult was the same way & thought it was his lack of training as he was 3 when we got him & now faced with a pup doing this!


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## Slamdunc

LuvourGSD's,
What type of collar corrections have you done? Is your dog basically leaking drive and screaming like a banshee when working. I owned a dog that would scream during heeling, super focused and screaming for much of the OB routine. High drive and wound super tight. It can be fixed, but needs to be addressed early. 

I address leaking drive and screaming with our LE dogs as well. Some dogs will get super excited before a building search, while downed at the entrance as soon as the handler starts to give the K-9 warnings. This really amps these high drive dogs up, some will start to whine, bark or even scream. This is un satisfactory and not acceptable for many reasons. An extremely calm, controlled handler with a nylon slip collar is the easiest way that I have found to quiet the dog. 

I haven't read every post, so I do not know if you have tried that?


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## wildo

LuvourGSDs said:


> My past post was my female whining watching other dogs work/run not working in a complete state of whining arousal!!!! I feel this is way worse of a problem by far. She can work in a calm state. He at 10 months is working in a whining state period.


Gotchya! Sorry, I couldn't remember if it was the same dog before or not.  BTW- I talked to Ron tonight about your issue and he said he's actually working on a post about similar issues right now. Hopefully it'll be up in a couple days or so. If I remember, I'll send you a link!


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## LuvourGSDs

The prong is what I use for obed work. In agility no correction collar used of course but use a fleece slip martingale lead.

I have a leather slip lead or choke but have just resorted to my prong. He's an awesome dog buuuuuuut really want him toning down his arousal level. They said last night at class, instructor included, we all know when Sprocket is in the building! 8/ Also, if someone takes him from me or placed in a down/stay with a stranger to work on future testing, he really whines!

I got him at just over 4 months of age. Drive toy (crazy for the flirtpole, which we are on the down low with, lol/food, Shaping, Luring, etc work was done with him coming from a schutzhund background. I'm not familiar with how this is built but while I love certain things, it's the capping that needs done now. It's like a excited or not sure if anxious whine?


It's not screaming but whining & if real amped a blurt of a bark at times. Was told correcting him is getting my attention. That's why I *try* to ignore the crate whines at home (which i know a e-collar would prob put a stop to it but trying my best to nip it without). 8/ Want him not crate whining at shows also & a few shows in the past, he did good. It seems in his adolescent stage, this is getting worse. I practice everything done in a calm state. He's knows, quiet as he'll speak & then I que, quiet, which the bugger does nicely.
PMs welcomed if others wish to go that route. 8) 

Leaking, as in a whine here & there? At this point it's constantly but way worse in agility class & I work him constantly with movement obed/play in between turns.
I truly feel if I cannot get it under control now that it will only magnify once he really starts knowing the agility game & he'll be one that's a crazy hot mess which I do not want, lol. Doesn't help your nerves either!


The BGSD was a joke as males getting bashed for this over females but I swear just ironic he amps like our last BGSD! 

Always working nilf & impulse control stuff.
Getting out of his crate is the biggest hurdle as he spins & whines. 

Thank Wildo & yep..... *please* share that link. I've tried researching, youtubing arousal, etc & thought I would try my GSD people. 8)

Trying my best..... 8/ He's a fun boy but want him to be a balanced working dog, turn on & turn off the whining! Oh btw, he does inside. Play outside, high arousal to come in house, goes to place (bed) & settles or sleep. 8)

Thanks all!!!!!


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## LuvourGSDs

The wildchild!


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## wildo

I still think that a video is needed that highlights the problem. It's not that I don't think you're accurately describing the problem- heck, who am *I* to even offer advice... But seeing the problem might spawn some new ideas. While I agree that an e-collar might address this issue, I'm reluctant to go there without actually seeing the problem. I know one person who thinks their dog "rocks" crate games, yet can't get their dog out of the crate calmly without an e-collar. The fact that crate games is about impulse control logically dictates that an e-collar shouldn't be needed to enforce impulse control... Totally missing the point... Remember that performance is not understanding. Just because your dog can do a behavior doesn't mean the dog understands the behavior. So anyway, I think video would probably be good in this case.


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## LuvourGSDs

I'll try my best to get some video. 8)

A part of me thinks, no classes for him but a part also feels, how's he going to learn control in these type of settings? 8/

Thanks again.......


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## wildo

I replied via PM on this.


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## 5stargerman

My situation is slightly different, but my dog was having issues concentrating on me. It was like..."oh look there is a dog"...focusfocusfocus..."oh, a person, hotdog, monkey, train...aaaahhhh." He would be a bit of a yippy, yanking hothead. So I had to work my tail off to keep him engaged and be ready to anticipate all of the distractions he would face. In my case, his desire for reward("yes!" and a piece of dog kibble in this instance) was way higher than his urge to pay attention to anything else. I started out in a low distraction place and rewarded him whenever he looked at me. Eventually I worked into busier places with him and corrected him very lightly right before he got amped up(followed immediately by a command to keep him busy). Dealing with distractions may be a little different than capping/directing drive/energy, but I would not mind if he was dancing around a tad as long as he had his focus locked in on me and was following my directions. I think that by working on obedience, teaching a "look at me command"(I just say "me"), and trying your best to constantly keep him engaged, I believe that you could get your pup to chillax. That being said, it is a case by case basis and I have not attended an agility class with my dog, so I am not exactly sure of the environment(and although the environment is not a excuse for a dog to go all hippy happy yappy dog, he is still just a pup full of energy and does not know what to do with it...that is why he needs you...to teach him what to do with it). These is just the experience of one person(me) though, so please regard them as such...you are the only one who can ultimately know what is best for your pooch! Persevere in the training of your dog! It will all iron out and you will become a better handler because of it! Have fun!


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## wolfy dog

I have pulled her out of agility at that age last year. She was way not ready and (therefore I didn't want it to become a negative experience); going off course, inspecting other dogs and the bags they brought with them, uncoordinated on the dog walk and falling off etc. Now, it is a year later and I feel she is getting more ready for it.


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## wildo

wolfy dog said:


> I have pulled her out of agility at that age last year. She was way not ready and (therefore I didn't want it to become a negative experience); going off course, inspecting other dogs and the bags they brought with them, uncoordinated on the dog walk and falling off etc. Now, it is a year later and I feel she is getting more ready for it.


Same boat for me. Smartest "dog training" move I ever made. My dog needed time to grow and mature mentally before the stress of agility. Probably the hardest dog training move I ever made as well, especially coming off of a forced retirement from my senior dog needing to stop agility cold turkey due to medical issues.


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## osito23

Just some thoughts - At 9 months old my male would have been over stimulated in an agility setting. Instead we focused on obedience and engagement in AKC obedience (smaller area, lots of dogs/people/distractions etc). We started agility at 15 months old and I am glad that we waited.


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## wolfy dog

wildo said:


> Smartest "dog training" move I ever made. My dog needed time to grow and mature mentally before the stress of agility. Probably the hardest dog training move I ever made as well


Definitely felt like an embarrassment as a (pet dog) trainer myself at first but I had to do it and felt really good about it later.
The agility trainer said "not to worry about falling off the dog walk as she will learn that way". But I saw accidents and injury coming so no thanks! It was a relief. This intense dog has taught me so much about opening my mind to techniques and decisions to make.
Cam, however, at 6 months old is a breeze in agility already, almost too easy but a relief at the same time. Once he is done with two classes I may enter Deja back in the summer. She has solid obedience and impulse control compared to last year. What a difference a year makes at this age.


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